Revell 1/32 Hawker Hunter FGA.9 RhAF

[Mach82]

Hi guys.

For this group build I will be doing the Revell 1/32 Scale Hawker Hunter FGA.9 of the Rhodesian Air Force (RhAF). The scheme will be from the 1972 period. The basic colours are semi gloss dark sea grey, dark green, and sky underneath. The green and white Rhodesian national insignia roundels on the forward fuselage only and the green/white flash on the tail. Apart from general maintenance stencils, there were no other national markings or serial numbers. For this particular build, I will be adding a white band around the fuselage with and 'Playboy Bunny' centred on the white band. This was a one off, morale building, publicity project with a local newspaper/magazine during the period. At the end of the build, this is what I intend to achieve:

So this is what I have to work with starting with the kit box:

The instructions: Standard Revell instructions. Although this is a dated kit, the instructions of the time (late 90's) don't appear to be much different to the present day ones.

The sprues: The general beautiful Hunter shape appears to have been faithfully reproduced and once finished, the model will be quite a considerable item in the display cabinet. The plastic is firm, but feels a touch on the brittle side. Overall the parts show some good detail with engraved panel lines. However I have noticed some ejector pin marks which will require attention. Not too much flash on the sprue to deal with but although the fit appears good in general, I am expecting some areas to give a few problems purely due to the age of the kit. I feel some filling, sanding and fettling may be required but in the end I expect some good results.

Kit decals: The decals are a little old but with some TLC should come out alright. The RhAF hunter didn't have too much in the way of stencils and markings so this should be quite easy to do. The white stripe and "bunny' will be painted on the finished model using a stencil and masking.

Extra decals:

Aftermarket extras: The cockpit, although looking good can really benefit with a resin aftermarket seat and tub, especially as I intend to pose the hunter with the canopy open. Due to the size of the completed kit, I feel the metal undercarriage legs are essential to support the weight. As a cherry on the cake, the metal pitot tube should make an attractive addition.

Reference: I will be using my own photo's, and the SAM magazine from August 1982.

I will be getting started when I get back home on Tuesday.

Thanks for following.

[mitchem]

Just know this is going to be impressive !

[Col.]

Oh yes! Excellent choice I'd didn't realise the undersides of this scheme was in Sky; every day is a school day

[johnny_7713]

Going to be building a RhAF (well, RRAF if I have my history straight) hunter myself, so looking forward to this one.

[Colin W]

I was just thinking those look like the SAM decals from the early 80's, and they are.

Excellent choice. They did fly Cans with no markings but I liked the ones with the Spear in the center.

Great scheme and a great kit.

Looking forward to see how she looks at the end.

Colin

[Mach82]

Going to be building a RhAF (well, RRAF if I have my history straight) hunter myself, so looking forward to this one.

Looking forward to seeing your build too Johnny. The Rhodesian hunters sure did have a wide selection of colours and insignia to choose from

[Mach82]

I was just thinking those look like the SAM decals from the early 80's, and they are.

Excellent choice. They did fly Cans with no markings but I liked the ones with the Spear in the center.

Great scheme and a great kit.

Looking forward to see how she looks at the end.

Colin

Hi Colin.

Hi Colin, Thanks

Yes, they are the original SAM decals which I was lucky enough to come across one day not so long ago whilst digging around in my old magazine stash. I have tried a few test fits and believe it or not they work perfectly good after all these years. Mind you I have some back up if they turn bad on me in the latter stages of the build.

I have been asked quite a few times what all the insignias meant so now seems like a good opportunity to try to explain it. All the Rhodesian Air Force aircraft operation during these periods (DC-3, Hunter, Canberra, Vampire, Provost and a few 'others'), used the following different insignia. The roundels go back to when Rhodesia was part of the commonwealth. When the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland was formed in 1953, the defence of the Federation became the Federations own responsibility and obviously the Rhodesian Air Force played a considerable part of the defence force. In 1954, the Queen conferred the title 'Royal' which the force then became known as the Royal Rhodesian Air Force (RRAF). The national insignia was designed on the then Royal Air Force roundel which had 3 assegai's super imposed on it (representing the 3 elements of the Federation of Rhodesia (Northern/Southern) and Nyasaland). In the early 1960's, following the dissolution of the Federation, control of the RRAF reverted to the Southern Rhodesian government and to reflect the change, the roundel was altered to contain just one assegai. This roundel remained until 1969 when, following the Anglo-Rhodesian political conflict (UDI), the force dropped the 'Royal' and became the Rhodesian Air Force (RhAF) and adopted a new roundel. The roundel was altered to green and white, with a gold lion in its centre originating from the Rhodesian coat of arms. Later on in the Rhodesian conflict, the insignia and unit markings were dropped from all the aircraft. Not until after Zimbabwe Independence (1980) did any national insignia start to make a re-appearance.

Slow progress with the kit at the moment but a start has been made.

[Mach82]

Update 01

Well its been a slow start but a start has been made. Its been and will be, a busy few weeks ahead on the work front and then a few weeks leave in the UK - thank goodness.

Getting straight to it I made a start on the wings, intakes and cockpit.

The wings: after opening some required holes, went together well with only minimal cleaning of flash and removing ejector pin marks.

Intakes: Cleaned and primed with black Stylnyrez

The interior of the intakes were painted in dull aluminium and the fan painted using magnesium and given an wash with AK dark stain. The flash and bright lights tend to hide the contrast of the subtle shades of the metallic parts. I have left the compressor fans and stators in a lighter colour so as to show up to anyone peering in to the 'dark' intake ducting.

Cockpit tub and Instrument Panel: Setting to work on the resin, I first marked out the 'waste' and set about removing it. The thinner parts as in the side wall replacements, were removed using a trumpeter panel line scriber to score along the waste area. Then a simple job of snapping it off from the main part. A quick clean up with a sanding stick and done!

the next bit was a little more complicated. I have used the aftermarket resin instrument panel, ejector seat and cockpit tub for this project. Working with resin, as we all well know, is messy, slow and not without its hazards, but the end result is most certainly worth the effort. Cutting off casting blocks with a razor saw and then sanding the resin parts to 'fit', was done in my spray booth with fan running and my face mask well and truly on. Its amazing to see how much invisible resin dust particles get trapped in the extractor filter.

The cockpit tub, sides and instrument panel were sprayed with a 75/25 mixture of Tamiya NATO black/Dark grey. Once dry, a light dry brushing of Tamiya Light Grey followed by another dry brushing of MrHobby dark iron to bring out the details. For weathering, I used a 2 stage approach, the first being a white clay wash, followed by a grey clay wash to add some depth and knock down the white a touch.

I have just started on the ejector seat. I have painted the metallic parts of the seat in a 90/10 mixture of Tamiya rubber black/light grey and metallised it using some dry brushing of MrHobby Dark Iron. Next I will be hand painting the seat cushions, belts and survival packs

and that is the progress so far. Sorry it wasn't as much as I would have liked but it is getting there and with a bit of luck find some time between my work schedules with a little 'Hotel Room' model making.

Thanks for popping in and will catch up later

[Col.]

That's good progress to a high standard Mark

Nice to read a bit of history being the project as well.

[Colin W]

Note to myself to buy a nice new cutting mat like yours.

[Mach82]

Update 02

Well back in the swing of things having just returned from a much needed 3 week break/holiday in the UK. Nose to the grind stone an try to finish this before the deadline. Ok so picking up from where I left off:-

After some fettling, sanding and a suitable amount of cursing, the cockpit tub was able to slot into the front fuselage without too much fuss. I had to thin the resin side wall frames in order to make a neat and close fit with the cockpit tub and once in situ the tub was fixed using CA (tacking) and 5 min epoxy. The front fuselage halves joined together but because of a slight warp, there was a small step on the lower fuselage joint to take care of. When I come across a fit issue, where ever possible, I try to make a neat, step-less join on the upper surfaces (the part that is always on display). Once dry, I turn my attention to the lower surfaces and do my best to minimise the errors. In dealing with steps, my first plan of action is to fill the step using a home made styrene filler (styrene sheet diluted in some tamiya extra thin and coloured with a pigment). When dry, I smooth over the join using an Alec Scraper and sanding sticks. A quick polish, check, more filling, sanding as required. As a finish, I brush a layer of MrSurfacer 1000 followed by a final sanding and polish then finally re-scribe any lost panel lines.

Here I am dealing with some steps on the lower front fuselage using some home made styrene filler. It works a treat and makes things so much easier when re-scribing the panel lines.

First the filler...

Once dry the scraping, sanding and polishing... (here the step along the lower rear fuselage is getting some attention)

and here is the before and after shot of the gun barrel housing showing the almost finished result...

The same treatment goes for the wings...

and the wing fuselage join... neat and tight upper join....

working and filling the lower...

40 grams of lead required to prevent a tail sitter. It was hard work to find enough space for the lead. Weights fixed using PVA followed by 5 min epoxy glue.

Well thats it so far. Starboard wing on next, then more filling, sanding etc...

Thanks for dropping by

Edited June 1, 2016 by Mach82

[mitchem]

Thanks for the update Mark. I really needed some distraction from my "troubled" work bench.

The tip about the styrene filler has provided a solution to the very cloudy bottle of extra thin cement I've stopped using. Looking forward to giving it a bash.

Regards

mike

[Mach82]

Thanks for the update Mark. I really needed some distraction from my "troubled" work bench.

The tip about the styrene filler has provided a solution to the very cloudy bottle of extra thin cement I've stopped using. Looking forward to giving it a bash.

Regards

mike

Its a pleasure Mike. Regarding the styrene filler - It works with any styrene but for best results make sure you use some plain styrene sheet as this will provide the best quality. I used to use old pieces of sprue but that never seemed to work out with the smoothest consistency. Using the styrene sheet really approximates the consistency of the plastic and makes scribing/sanding that much easier. I just cut a few small strips from a piece of styrene sheet, chuck it in a bottle containing some extra thin, leave it overnight to dissolve, mix it up a little the next day to check on the consistency and either add more styrene or extra thin as required. I have made up 2 bottles of the stuff - a thick and a thin. Let me know how you get on with it. BTW Its brilliant stuff for removing intake seam lines.

Regards

Mark

Edited June 2, 2016 by Mach82

[SimonR]

Its a pleasure Mike. Regarding the styrene filler - It works with any styrene but for best results make sure you use some plain styrene sheet as this will provide the best quality. I used to use old pieces of sprue but that never seemed to work out with the smoothest consistency. Using the styrene sheet really approximates the consistency of the plastic and makes scribing/sanding that much easier. I just cut a few small strips from a piece of styrene sheet, chuck it in a bottle containing some extra thin, leave it overnight to dissolve, mix it up a little the next day to check on the consistency and either add more styrene or extra thin as required. I have made up 2 bottles of the stuff - a thick and a thin. Let me know how you get on with it. BTW Its brilliant stuff for removing intake seam lines.

Regards

Mark

Excellent work Mark, i'm doing the same kit and its lovely but got a few small bits to patch up.

That filler sounds great, I really struggle with usual fillers getting a smooth finish, excuse me for being dumb but when you say 'extra thin' what is that exactly?

Cheers

Simon

[Mach82]

Excellent work Mark, i'm doing the same kit and its lovely but got a few small bits to patch up.

That filler sounds great, I really struggle with usual fillers getting a smooth finish, excuse me for being dumb but when you say 'extra thin' what is that exactly?

Cheers

Simon

Hi Simon.

Thanks for your kind words. It is a lovely kit but sure has its moments. Regarding the extra thin .... sorry I should have mentioned the 'extra thin' is the Tamiya cement. The extra thin is the one with the green top on the bottle. You can see it in the top corner of the picture below. It was quite hard to come by a few years ago, but most good model shops stock it now.

Hope this helps but any further questions please don't hesitate to ask.

Regards

Mark

[SimonR]

Thanks Mark,

Makes sense now - i'll give that a go I think!

Cheers

Simon

[Mach82]

Update 03

Firstly I would like to apologise for the lack of progress. Things here have been unusually and unexpectedly manic, leaving me only short periods to devote to building this fine aircraft. However she is progressing and I will be making a concerted effort to finish in time. Here she is coming together and starting to reveal the sleek and pleasing lines of the Hunter.

Since the last update, I have attached the wings, nose cone, tail cone, Sabrinas, vents and canopy. The tail plane is only dry fitted for the time being to make the paint process a little easier. All joints left seam lines that required a degree of working to achieve a good result. Once having finished the filling and sanding came the painfully slow task of re-scribing and polishing.

Corrections being made to some sink marks on the tail section near the jet pipe. Depressions were filled using some home made styrene filler and re-scribed. The joy of using this filler is that it has the same consistency and hardness of the kit plastic so re-scribing the panel lines is made much easier. The tool engraves the surfaces effortlessly without the 'digging in' or 'snatching' when engraving across different surfaces. One thing though is that the filler must be left to dry completely - 24hrs minimum and longer for more layers. Best results are achieved using a coarse sanding stick, light pressure to avoid 'melting' the plastic. Gradually progress to fine grade and polish.

(Please forgive me if I mentioned this in a previous update-it comes with age :badmood:Well I am sticking to that explanation anyway )

The wing to fuselage join went surprisingly well. Only little work to get a good join, but the time spent sanding and dry fitting was worth the extra effort. The area that required the most time to be spent on it, was the dog-tooth LE and wing tip sections - might I just say at this point an interesting way of doing things. More filling and fettling.

The canopy fit was one of the best that I have come across in a long time. The front windscreen was attached using a dab of Tamiya white glue and once the painting process is complete, the main canopy will be left 'dry' to allow it to be posable, open or closed.

So here we are, the sleek and sexy lines of the Hunter, now ready for some primer and about to start the fun part of painting. Its been some hard work, but I am loving this kit. Please bare with me as I will be doing my utmost to finish by the deadline and all other projects are on hold till then. Its all up to the work front now, so keeping fingers crossed for a decent flight schedule next month (published in the next few days).

Thanks for dropping by

Edited June 23, 2016 by Mach82

[Col.]

Glad to see you making progress with this one Mark and it looks to be going well.

[Mach82]

Update 04

The next stage is to complete the panel line re-scribing and get some primer on for a final check before painting.

Having got some primer down, the errors really began to appear.

With corrections made, a final check all over before starting with the pre-shading..... Looking much better now

So on with some pre-shading (Tamiya gloss black)... before and after shot

Pre-shading now complete....

Finally before starting the painting, I sprayed the areas that normally experience the most wear and tear flat aluminium. I intend to randomly dab some chipping medium along the leading edges and certain points before the final painting stage to produce a chipping effect later in the build.

And this leaves us at the current stage of the build... Ready for the final paint

Things haven't gone as fast as I would have liked, but are starting to speed up now, with a little bit of luck we should hopefully be ready in time for the closing date.

Thanks for stopping by

[Col.]

Lovely detail work Mark. Coming along nicely.

[nimrod54]

Nice work Mark, great attention to detail.

[Mach82]

Update 05

Since the last update, I have started the painting. Having completed the pre-shading and painting the nose cone buff (undercoat to the final black coat)...

I applied some chipping medium (soft hold hairspray) to the wing leading edges, fuselage and nose cone....

And when the chipping medium was dry, I started the paint job beginning with the under surfaces...

masking complete, she is now ready for a start on the top surfaces, beginning with the Sea Grey....

For the camo pattern on the upper surfaces, I first mark out the pattern with light pencil lines and then fill in the grey areas ensuring a little over spray....

Sea grey all done, I now put the model aside to dry before I start masking the pattern with white tack snakes and begin laying down the Dark Green....

I have been able to cut some Playboy 'Bunny' templates from some frisket film for the side logo...

and start to prepare some of the weapons ...

and typical to 'Murphy's Law', just when I was about to start on the green camo pattern, I have been called out to fly ... I should be back on Saturday when I can get a little more done all being well and get into a situation where I can begin the weathering process.

Thanks for popping in and taking the time to follow. I will catch up with the next update when I get back.

Cheers for now

[Col.]

Liking your plans for the weathering Mark and the bunny masks are great

[mitchem]

Excellent stuff Mark !

Staying tuned as I just know this is going to end up being extraordinarily brilliant.

:thumbsup2:

[Mach82]

Thanks Col and Mike.

I am really trying to get this one done, but seem to be falling behind thanks to my unusually busy work schedule. I don't want to rush things but will be doing my best to complete by the 10th. fingers well and truly crossed.