Whirly Posted April 8, 2016 Posted April 8, 2016 Hello all, I'd like to enter this build of a rather exotic subject. Here is the box contents for a start: hope the kit won't fight me too much! Fabio 5
dude_gan_ainm Posted April 9, 2016 Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) Nice one Fabio,best of luck. Jimbob... Edited April 9, 2016 by dude_gan_ainm
Whirly Posted April 13, 2016 Author Posted April 13, 2016 Did some progress detaching the main components from the pouring blocks. It was quite awkward and needed a very thin saw because there is no clearance between the parts and the excess resin: anyway all went well and now I have the main parts free and thoroughly cleaned. I stiil need to refine the side windows and this will require much care because of the paint scheme, they must be perfectly aligned. Cheers Fabio 6
ForestFan Posted April 15, 2016 Posted April 15, 2016 Nice choice, it's fair to say you don't see many of these! Look forward to seeing it progress
Jabba Posted April 15, 2016 Posted April 15, 2016 There does not seem to be much room between the art and the resin block, at least I had a bit more with the MH-3E. How are you finding the instructions, as I am finding mine a little difficult to follow?
Whirly Posted April 18, 2016 Author Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) Hi Jabba, the instructions are more a collection of advices on some stages of the construction than a complete guide from start to finish. Consider that I realized only a few days ago that I was missing all the transparent parts: they are not mentioned in the parts list and only deserve a brief note in stages B and F. Hope to receive a replacement soon... How are yours for the HH-3? Meanwhile, here is some little progress: all the cockpit parts ready for assembly... The seat supports where great fun but came out well in the end. I have some reserves on the rudder pedals: they are supplied both as resin (huge) and photoetched (tiny). Neither seem in the correct scale, I'll see what to do later. Cheers Fabio Edited April 18, 2016 by Whirly
CliffB Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Coming along nicely and that PE certainly sharpens things up Cliff
Jabba Posted April 23, 2016 Posted April 23, 2016 Hi Jabba, the instructions are more a collection of advices on some stages of the construction than a complete guide from start to finish. Consider that I realized only a few days ago that I was missing all the transparent parts: they are not mentioned in the parts list and only deserve a brief note in stages B and F. Hope to receive a replacement soon... How are yours for the HH-3? Meanwhile, here is some little progress: all the cockpit parts ready for assembly... The seat supports where great fun but came out well in the end. I have some reserves on the rudder pedals: they are supplied both as resin (huge) and photoetched (tiny). Neither seem in the correct scale, I'll see what to do later. Cheers Fabio Like the progress. My transparencies were in the kit although there are none really for the side windows, will probably make some out of clear plasti card. I am still finding the instructions a bit of a minefield, as I have two sheets to follow which I sometimes get a little mixed up.
Whirly Posted April 26, 2016 Author Posted April 26, 2016 Thanks for the appreciations! I did a little more progress: cutting the plasticard templates for the floor and rear bulkhead I found they are quite approximate, will have to make some adjustments... 1
Whirly Posted April 26, 2016 Author Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) I also added some detailing fo the cockpit bulkhead which was quite naked. Some aluminium sheet was embossed from behind with a dull point and then attached to the wall with thin acrylic adhesive: after drying up the excess was trimmed with a sharp blade and this is the finished item: Edited April 26, 2016 by Whirly 2
CliffB Posted April 26, 2016 Posted April 26, 2016 That embossed detail looks very effective indeed - yet another technique for me to try sometime Cliff
Whirly Posted April 28, 2016 Author Posted April 28, 2016 Glad to inspire you Cliff: I used this technique for the first time and it was very easy and effective to my eyes, much better than anything I could have done with microstrips or sprue. Also it doesn't require special materials: the thick aluminium sheet came from a chocolate coin... 1
Whirly Posted May 6, 2016 Author Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) Sorry for the lack of updates but time is so scarce I'm even behind schedule with posts in this forum... I made some little progress on the interior: I cut the floor and rear bulkhead according to the instructed templates and had to do some adjustments. Then I did the side windows using some very thick acetate. Another good trick I learned before on these forum is to run a black marker on the edge of each window: this helps to avoid all the reflexes that lend that toy-like feel to many helo models. The windows where then attached with Revell acrylic glue. Here are the cockpit floor and bulkhead fitted in place. I added more tin foil to the rear wall to achieve the same effect with embossed detail. Edited May 6, 2016 by Whirly
Whirly Posted May 6, 2016 Author Posted May 6, 2016 While doing much research on the interior (can't help it ) I found a minor inaccuracy with the yaw controls: they are certainly oversized and I tried to reduce them all around but I also noted that the extra 'pads' are really present only in the right seat. It has to do with the commanding position, though I'd be curious to know why the co-pilot doesn't need them (and what they are). You can get a good view of many internal details from this panoramic tour of the Pensacola excellently restored example: http://www.navalaviationmuseum.org/nnam/virtualtour/?s=pano692
Whirly Posted May 6, 2016 Author Posted May 6, 2016 Now I'm struggling to find a way to do the cabin padding: it is very loose and my first try with lead foil is somewhat underwhelming... I could do it with Milliput but I'm not too happy to test my scarce abilities with these material. Suggestions are very welcome. 1
Jabba Posted May 6, 2016 Posted May 6, 2016 While doing much research on the interior (can't help it ) I found a minor inaccuracy with the yaw controls: they are certainly oversized and I tried to reduce them all around but I also noted that the extra 'pads' are really present only in the right seat. It has to do with the commanding position, though I'd be curious to know why the co-pilot doesn't need them (and what they are). You can get a good view of many internal details from this panoramic tour of the Pensacola excellently restored example: http://www.navalaviationmuseum.org/nnam/virtualtour/?s=pano692 The extra bits on the yaw pedals might be the brake controls. I know that they are on Chinooks.
moaning dolphin Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 Great work so far, its looking really nice! wot he said reference to the yaw pedals. They are wheel brakes and (certainly in the UK and Canadian Seaking world) are only available to the pilot in the right hand seat who is deemed the aircraft captain. Not sure why the co pilot isn't trusted with a set! Bob 1
Whirly Posted May 11, 2016 Author Posted May 11, 2016 (edited) Hi Jabba, your idea seems good: I hadn't thought about the taxiing capabilities and actually the brakes aren't strictly necessary to handle the aircraft. (thank you also to Bob, I saw the reply only now). While struggling to finish the interior I found out that the japanese helos used different equipment from their USCG counterparts event though the mission should be the same. The USCG used a platform attached to the side of the open cabin, as you can see in the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3Y6zKVe7hw While not in use that platform was always stowed in the rear left cabin as can be seen in the Pensacola link I posted previously. If you look at images of JASDF and JMSDF S-62J the platform is never in sight and you can see through the rear left cabin windows there are canvas seats where the stowed platform should be: So the nice etching provided in the box can't be used, while I have to build all the troop seats. Edited May 11, 2016 by Whirly
Whirly Posted May 13, 2016 Author Posted May 13, 2016 Just a quick update to say a BIG THANK YOU to Roger Evans, owner of Whirlybirds Models, who despite being in very hard troubles with his wife's illness found the time to send me the missing canopies so I can go along with this build.
andyf117 Posted May 18, 2016 Posted May 18, 2016 (edited) Content withdrawn - I will NOT be threatened by a moderator, simply because I queried the actions of another... Edited June 27, 2020 by andyf117
heloman1 Posted May 20, 2016 Posted May 20, 2016 Great choice of kit, I love this cab. Good work wiyth ali sheet and pen and the rudder pedals look ok too. Colin
Whirly Posted May 20, 2016 Author Posted May 20, 2016 Hi Andy, so you are suggesting thin polythene attached with PVA glue? Seems good, but what about painting it? I fear the grey paint will peel off or not? Thank you!
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now