Anyone used the new Aztek A7778 Airbrush

[Tomjw]

Hi All,

I'm in a little bit of a quandry as to what airbrush to upgrade to. I have been using a H&S Ultra with great success, to spray Tamiya and Gunze Mr Hobby acrylics and Alclad 2 Lacquers. I have read a magazine review of the new Aztec A7778, and like what I've read, but am wondering if any of you have any experience of using and cleaning it.

Thanks in advance.

Tom.

[colin]

A quick search will give you some clues
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/50210.aspx

http://airbrushdoc.com/airbrush-reviews/aztek-7778-airbrush/

Never used one, but just looking at these two I didn't think it looked that well made

[bzn20]

Nothing wrong with Aztecs. It was a radical design when it came out. I binned my Paasch and Hansa 25 years ago for the 2000. Never any doubt with it. That Finescale link wasn't very helpful. Its easier and quicker to work with and none of that threading the eye etc. paint cups fit either side.Really quick change.The nozzle needs replacing eventually but thats not much to pay out Mine is plastic not a heavier shiney, chrome like brush,which I suspect is a first impression problem.

I'd say go for it, others,probably 90% wouldn't but 25 years without one single problem compared to the messing around with the previous brushes.In the end, its if you like it or don't like it. The Aztec is fine though. I have four nozzles,fine,hi-flow,medium,splatter,3 sizes of cup

Pm me your email and I'll send you my work done with an Aztec

Finescale header quote...."Witch one is better " ..........What happens if she doesn't float?

Edited March 28, 2016 by bzn20

[Foghorn Leghorn]

A few years ago I went through 2 Aztek A470 airbrushes in 4 years, they seemed to have an inherent flaw in the trigger assembly. And I wasn't the only one who had the problem.

The A7778 looks to be the same body design (and the A4709 seems to be exactly the same as the A470), they may have changed the trigger assembly by now but I'd be cautious about it. And the Aztec nozzles were a bit of a pain to clean as well. The system was a great idea in principle but reality was a different matter, for me at any rate.

I'm now using an H&S Ultra, light years ahead of the Aztek 470. If I were you I'd go for the H&S CR Plus, with the added bonus of the same nozzle as the Ultra

Neil

Edited March 28, 2016 by Foghorn Leghorn

[frankie]

Hello,

To give You some info :https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

Frankie

[Foghorn Leghorn]

To give You some info :https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

What a great link!

(Seems the trigger assembly was a weak point on the Aztek)

[Duncan B]

I had one and the trigger failed after a year or so. I sent it back and got it repaired for free but the trigger was never the same again and failed after another year. It was fine as a starter airbrush for me but I'm glad I moved on.

I found it awkward to use and also the nozzles wore out regularly so my advice would be spend your money on something like an Iwata or H & S.

Duncan B

[bzn20]

My trigger is the same one from new.I've had since 1990 although its a 2000 model. I've changed my fine nozzles twice. Not sure,perhaps the newer ones are cr*p then.

[Tomjw]

Thanks for the advice and links guys. I'm going to have to give this some serious thought.

Cheers,

Tom.

[jenko]

I had an Aztek for may years and had to have it replaced under warrenty (those where the days when they did a life time warrenty) several times. It served me well.

I the repaced it with an H&S Evolution. ............................. It was like going from a Model T to a Rolls Royce !!!!!!!!

Would I ever go back to an Aztek...................................................... NEVER !!!!!!!

Ps.... I have used the H&S every day for the past 4 years.

Dick

Edited March 29, 2016 by jenko

[ancient mariner]

The Aztek range were always the "Marmite" of airbrushes. Loved and hated in equal measure. I used one for many years and liked it,but I stopped when I thought the quality control of the tips went South.

My personal opinion is that Aztek are intermediate airbrushes and a move from a (basic) H & S would be a retrograde step. Again in my personal opinion ,the time and effort getting used to the "feel" and use of an Aztek would be better spent mastering a mid to top of the shop H & S , Iwata etc.

Bare in mind that there is also much debate and partisan discussion about the various merits of H & S vs. Iwata.

[little-cars]

I did stock the metal aztek brush about 12 years ago, it's been around for a while, it's not new & I only sold a couple

When Aztek brushes first came out they were a revolution, I know the guy that demo'd them at the press launch.

I stopped selling Aztek brushes when the quality & warranty went down. I had a batch of brushes with bodies that weren't clipped together and couldn't be as the moldings were so bad. So no quality control ot testing finished brushes like Iwata & Harder and Steenbeck.

The biggest problem with the metal version is it's heavy body with a lack of balance,

They have copied the plastic bodied one, rather than re-designing it & this makes it front heavy.

So if you drop it it smashes on it's nose.

Like all the Aztek brushe sets, It's also very expensive, list price is £230 for the set.

For less than that you could get any of the H&S brushes.

If you have been happy with the ultra, the upgrade route I would look at is H&S Evolution Silverline or the Infinity CRplus.

Paul

[Tomjw]

I did stock the metal aztek brush about 12 years ago, it's been around for a while, it's not new & I only sold a couple

When Aztek brushes first came out they were a revolution, I know the guy that demo'd them at the press launch.

I stopped selling Aztek brushes when the quality & warranty went down. I had a batch of brushes with bodies that weren't clipped together and couldn't be as the moldings were so bad. So no quality control ot testing finished brushes like Iwata & Harder and Steenbeck.

The biggest problem with the metal version is it's heavy body with a lack of balance,

They have copied the plastic bodied one, rather than re-designing it & this makes it front heavy.

So if you drop it it smashes on it's nose.

Like all the Aztek brushe sets, It's also very expensive, list price is £230 for the set.

For less than that you could get any of the H&S brushes.

If you have been happy with the ultra, the upgrade route I would look at is H&S Evolution Silverline or the Infinity CRplus.

Paul

Hi Paul,

Thanks for this. After reading the other replies, I had a look on you website, and came to the conclusion that I'm going to upgrade to another H&S airbrush. With the amount I'm thinking of spending, perhaps I can visit your stand at Driffield if you're there in September and try a couple of brushes before I buy.

Cheers,

Tom.

[bzn20]

After reading all the problems,probably after Kodak sold the Aztec to Testors. I'd stay away too. My 1991 model is fine though. If it fails it looks like the bin as spare parts sound non existant. Shame really.The nozzles and cups still fit mine though .

[little-cars]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for this. After reading the other replies, I had a look on you website, and came to the conclusion that I'm going to upgrade to another H&S airbrush. With the amount I'm thinking of spending, perhaps I can visit your stand at Driffield if you're there in September and try a couple of brushes before I buy.

Cheers,

Tom.

Hi Tom,

Yes should be there ( I think I've booked, but better check!), Will have the demo brushes to try as normal.

Ta,

Paul

[Duncan B]

I do still have the Aztek although I don't know why as I never use it, probably because it cost so much to buy I can't face getting rid of it! Mine was from the time when they carried a lifetime warranty. It wasn't all bad as I could just about manage mottling in 1/72 but, as I said earlier, I'm glad I moved on.

Duncan B

[Rob G]

Mine's an early 'Lifetime Warranty' one as well, pretty sure I've had it fixed once, mny years ago. When it worked, it worked well, when it didn't, there was nothing I could ever do to make it work except clean it and put it away, then try again months later. Currently using an Iwata and Paasche, and the Aztek sits in a box on the shelf, collecting dust.

[Sean_M]

I have owned 2 metal A7778. The one I had spare in case I ever needed to send my workhorse in for prepare. The only cleaning I did was a tip down of the external handle and pul the needle and spring out from the nozzle. I predominately use the grey for black and sometimes the tan nozzle. I only use my aztek for future now. I owned both the H & S Evolution and CRPlus. I could never get along with them. I now use a Grex TG3. .3mm for general purpose and TG5 .5mm for the odd time when I am using need greater coverage. I have run tests toothier with Mish using the H&S and Grex side by side. We sprayed a wide range of acrylics through both brushes. The Grex never gave a moments problem. They are easy to maintain and service from Grex is superb.

Topnotch Models is now and an appointed dealer (see the sellers section) so spare and products in the UK

Pricing is comparable with other top end airbrushes

Topnotch run a basic class where you get to use the Grex for an afternoon so its great to be able to put it through its paces before the big spend

[Tomjw]

I have owned 2 metal A7778. The one I had spare in case I ever needed to send my workhorse in for prepare. The only cleaning I did was a tip down of the external handle and pul the needle and spring out from the nozzle. I predominately use the grey for black and sometimes the tan nozzle. I only use my aztek for future now. I owned both the H & S Evolution and CRPlus. I could never get along with them. I now use a Grex TG3. .3mm for general purpose and TG5 .5mm for the odd time when I am using need greater coverage. I have run tests toothier with Mish using the H&S and Grex side by side. We sprayed a wide range of acrylics through both brushes. The Grex never gave a moments problem. They are easy to maintain and service from Grex is superb.

Topnotch Models is now and an appointed dealer (see the sellers section) so spare and products in the UK

Pricing is comparable with other top end airbrushes

Topnotch run a basic class where you get to use the Grex for an afternoon so its great to be able to put it through its paces before the big spend

Interesting, thanks. I can now safely assume that I will not be getting an Aztek brush.

Cheers,

Tom

[stan]

Had one since 1990 before the company was taken over by Testors.

Although i have a H&S the Aztec still gets the odd use.

Managed to pick up a load of nozzles from Hobbycraft a couple of years ago in

a sale so the Aztec will carry on for a long time yet.

[Bobk]

The Aztek double action airbrush are one of the most divisive, anger generating subjects that modelers talk about. Love it or hate it, just remember it's a tool and as such it takes practice and patience to come close to mastering the use of this tool, it also takes an understanding of the design of the tool. I don't know the design history of the Aztek line of airbrushes but I think they wanted to rethink airbrush design and did a fine job of it. I think the mindset of the designers was to design an airbrush that was easy to use by anyone, even those who had no experience. They threw away the rule book, think "Apple" of airbrushes. As such it has to be handled differently than traditional, old school airbrushes and I think that is the only place where Testors / Kodak dropped the ball. They took all the technical words out of the manual and replaced them with pictures which did make it easier for the complete novice to understand how to use it. That was fine as far as it goes but it also put off the traditional airbrush user and contributed to the feeling that this was a toy and not a "true" airbrush. Also it fostered a feeling that it was a poor design. I picked one up maybe a year after they first came out and was happy with it, and that is with several other traditional double action brushes in my possession. The ease of cleaning and the super cleaning station along with the performance was very handy for me.

Well it has only recently that I read a letter from Testors that was sent to a user that spelt out, in words, the design and "correct" way to use the Aztek. Several important points showed up in the letter.

1. Never use the "Blow Back" or "Reverse Flow" method, where the airbrush nozzle is covered and a shot of air is used and forced back into the reservoir to help mix paint or clean the airbrush. This seems to be the main problem with the way traditional airbrush users, for the lack of a better word foul up an Aztek airbrush. Almost from the time that the airbrush was invented this was the gospel way to mix paint and clean the metal bodied "traditional" brush. When a traditional brush user does this it forces paint and cleaning fluid past the "needle seal" in an Aztek airbrush. The paint and cleaning fluid then evaporates and leave a gummy residue on that needle to the point that it will freeze up the needle control and people will force the finger trigger which causes .........

2. The plastic connection in the trigger to break. It's part of the design of the Aztek airbrush to use the easiest to manufacture pieces to bring down the price of the brush. It works as long as you stay in the parameters of the brush. In the 3000s version of the Aztek that connection isn't plastic and is a slightly better, stronger metal piece. There are several online forums that show you how to clean up a gummed up needle control and how to PREVENT it from happening. So if your trigger freezes up DO NOT FORCE IT!! There is a very good post on the Aircraft Resources forum that will walk you through how to free up the needle and repair that problem if your trigger freezes up. Again this points out another difference between a "traditional" airbrush from the Aztek brush. If this happens with a traditional airbrush you just immerse the metal body in the cleaning fluid of your choice and "work" the piece until it comes free, can't do that with an Aztek because it is built to close tolerances when it comes to "forcing" a part. And a traditional airbrush user will, just out of habit, use a force that is ok to use on a metal brush.

3. Speaking of immersing the brush in your favorite cleaning fluid..... can't do that with an Aztek. Due to the design of the Aztek brush it depends on the air tube in the body of the brush to stay pliable so that the trigger will be able to shut off the air when you release the trigger. When the Aztek is immersed in cleaning fluids much past the metal ferrule in a "hot" cleaning fluid it will affect the plasticizers in that air tube and will cause it to deteriorate and eventually fail. But then again there really is no need to dunk the whole body of the Aztek and drowned it in any cleaning fluids unless, and it's a big unless, you have not read the first point that I wrote about and have been "back flushing" your brush. A traditional metal bodied airbrush will gladly be immersed in a bath of cleaning fluids with little or no problem as long as rubber o seals are taken into account. So a traditional airbrush user will out of habit cause problems for himself by over use of cleaning fluids on the body of an Aztek air brush..

4. Just like a traditional air brush you still have to make adjustments to the nozzle control before you spray paint, sometimes with a Mac valve or positioning the needle in the chuck, etc, etc...... With an Aztek the best way to adjust the needle to with the ferruled wheel. With a traditional you can adjust the brush so that with the first pull of the trigger all you will get is air, but with an Aztek it is usual for the nozzle to be set where with the first pull of the trigger you will get paint and air so you have to adjust the ferruled wheel to stop the paint flow.

5. The nozzles can be soaked in cleaning fluids, hot or not. And they can be taken apart and "deep" cleaned but that is not recommended by Testors. I confess I have done it, but not often maybe twice a year or when the nozzles give me problems. The recommended cleaning procedure in this letter is to soak them in Acetone or the appropriate cleaning fluid for no more than 10 minutes but I have left them in overnight - ish. There are several forum posts that will walk you through the process of "deep" cleaning the nozzles.

6. I have only the plastic or resin bodied Aztek air brushes, but I think this also applies to the metal bodied Azteks too because the internals are the same only the outside has changed not the internal workings.

So I think, and I only think, that most of the problems that people have with the Aztek air brush is the fact that they, out of habit, treat the Aztek as a traditional metal bodied old school air brush. Rather than using it as an Aztek air brush. It's not a problem of the user, it seems to be a problem of communication from Testors. It boils down to a matter of taste, like do you prefer a PC or an Apple 'puter? They both work well but they are very different and I think it's the same with the Aztek line of air brushes. In their haste to make an air brush for the masses they forgot to tell the traditionalists that it needs to be handled a little different. I use my Aztek for mostly acrylic paints and have not used much in the way of "hot" solvents or cleaning fluids on it and it works for me.

[Sean_M]

The Aztek double action airbrush are one of the most divisive, anger generating subjects that modelers talk about. Love it or hate it, just remember it's a tool and as such it takes practice and patience to come close to mastering the use of this tool, it also takes an understanding of the design of the tool. I don't know the design history of the Aztek line of airbrushes but I think they wanted to rethink airbrush design and did a fine job of it. I think the mindset of the designers was to design an airbrush that was easy to use by anyone, even those who had no experience. They threw away the rule book, think "Apple" of airbrushes. As such it has to be handled differently than traditional, old school airbrushes and I think that is the only place where Testors / Kodak dropped the ball. They took all the technical words out of the manual and replaced them with pictures which did make it easier for the complete novice to understand how to use it. That was fine as far as it goes but it also put off the traditional airbrush user and contributed to the feeling that this was a toy and not a "true" airbrush. Also it fostered a feeling that it was a poor design. I picked one up maybe a year after they first came out and was happy with it, and that is with several other traditional double action brushes in my possession. The ease of cleaning and the super cleaning station along with the performance was very handy for me.

Well it has only recently that I read a letter from Testors that was sent to a user that spelt out, in words, the design and "correct" way to use the Aztek. Several important points showed up in the letter.

1. Never use the "Blow Back" or "Reverse Flow" method, where the airbrush nozzle is covered and a shot of air is used and forced back into the reservoir to help mix paint or clean the airbrush. This seems to be the main problem with the way traditional airbrush users, for the lack of a better word foul up an Aztek airbrush. Almost from the time that the airbrush was invented this was the gospel way to mix paint and clean the metal bodied "traditional" brush. When a traditional brush user does this it forces paint and cleaning fluid past the "needle seal" in an Aztek airbrush. The paint and cleaning fluid then evaporates and leave a gummy residue on that needle to the point that it will freeze up the needle control and people will force the finger trigger which causes .........

2. The plastic connection in the trigger to break. It's part of the design of the Aztek airbrush to use the easiest to manufacture pieces to bring down the price of the brush. It works as long as you stay in the parameters of the brush. In the 3000s version of the Aztek that connection isn't plastic and is a slightly better, stronger metal piece. There are several online forums that show you how to clean up a gummed up needle control and how to PREVENT it from happening. So if your trigger freezes up DO NOT FORCE IT!! There is a very good post on the Aircraft Resources forum that will walk you through how to free up the needle and repair that problem if your trigger freezes up. Again this points out another difference between a "traditional" airbrush from the Aztek brush. If this happens with a traditional airbrush you just immerse the metal body in the cleaning fluid of your choice and "work" the piece until it comes free, can't do that with an Aztek because it is built to close tolerances when it comes to "forcing" a part. And a traditional airbrush user will, just out of habit, use a force that is ok to use on a metal brush.

3. Speaking of immersing the brush in your favorite cleaning fluid..... can't do that with an Aztek. Due to the design of the Aztek brush it depends on the air tube in the body of the brush to stay pliable so that the trigger will be able to shut off the air when you release the trigger. When the Aztek is immersed in cleaning fluids much past the metal ferrule in a "hot" cleaning fluid it will affect the plasticizers in that air tube and will cause it to deteriorate and eventually fail. But then again there really is no need to dunk the whole body of the Aztek and drowned it in any cleaning fluids unless, and it's a big unless, you have not read the first point that I wrote about and have been "back flushing" your brush. A traditional metal bodied airbrush will gladly be immersed in a bath of cleaning fluids with little or no problem as long as rubber o seals are taken into account. So a traditional airbrush user will out of habit cause problems for himself by over use of cleaning fluids on the body of an Aztek air brush..

4. Just like a traditional air brush you still have to make adjustments to the nozzle control before you spray paint, sometimes with a Mac valve or positioning the needle in the chuck, etc, etc...... With an Aztek the best way to adjust the needle to with the ferruled wheel. With a traditional you can adjust the brush so that with the first pull of the trigger all you will get is air, but with an Aztek it is usual for the nozzle to be set where with the first pull of the trigger you will get paint and air so you have to adjust the ferruled wheel to stop the paint flow.

5. The nozzles can be soaked in cleaning fluids, hot or not. And they can be taken apart and "deep" cleaned but that is not recommended by Testors. I confess I have done it, but not often maybe twice a year or when the nozzles give me problems. The recommended cleaning procedure in this letter is to soak them in Acetone or the appropriate cleaning fluid for no more than 10 minutes but I have left them in overnight - ish. There are several forum posts that will walk you through the process of "deep" cleaning the nozzles.

6. I have only the plastic or resin bodied Aztek air brushes, but I think this also applies to the metal bodied Azteks too because the internals are the same only the outside has changed not the internal workings.

So I think, and I only think, that most of the problems that people have with the Aztek air brush is the fact that they, out of habit, treat the Aztek as a traditional metal bodied old school air brush. Rather than using it as an Aztek air brush. It's not a problem of the user, it seems to be a problem of communication from Testors. It boils down to a matter of taste, like do you prefer a PC or an Apple 'puter? They both work well but they are very different and I think it's the same with the Aztek line of air brushes. In their haste to make an air brush for the masses they forgot to tell the traditionalists that it needs to be handled a little different. I use my Aztek for mostly acrylic paints and have not used much in the way of "hot" solvents or cleaning fluids on it and it works for me.

Very well written. I concur. Aztek did one thing for me. It enable me to learn to airbrush without the fuss of disassembling a traditional airbrush every time I got things wrong. I think I prefer different because the grex TG range is a pistol grip and I like it because I am used to a larger need (thanks to Aztek .3mm) Grex do make a traditional range but as I said I am different. I think that one really needs to find the airbrush that works for you - It does not matter what the pundits say - "Its what works of you!"

[frankie]

The Aztek double action airbrush are one of the most divisive, anger generating subjects that modelers talk about. Love it or hate it, just remember it's a tool and as such it takes practice and patience to come close to mastering the use of this tool, it also takes an understanding of the design of the tool. I don't know the design history of the Aztek line of airbrushes but I think they wanted to rethink airbrush design and did a fine job of it. I think the mindset of the designers was to design an airbrush that was easy to use by anyone, even those who had no experience. They threw away the rule book, think "Apple" of airbrushes. As such it has to be handled differently than traditional, old school airbrushes and I think that is the only place where Testors / Kodak dropped the ball. They took all the technical words out of the manual and replaced them with pictures which did make it easier for the complete novice to understand how to use it. That was fine as far as it goes but it also put off the traditional airbrush user and contributed to the feeling that this was a toy and not a "true" airbrush. Also it fostered a feeling that it was a poor design. I picked one up maybe a year after they first came out and was happy with it, and that is with several other traditional double action brushes in my possession. The ease of cleaning and the super cleaning station along with the performance was very handy for me.

Well it has only recently that I read a letter from Testors that was sent to a user that spelt out, in words, the design and "correct" way to use the Aztek. Several important points showed up in the letter.

1. Never use the "Blow Back" or "Reverse Flow" method, where the airbrush nozzle is covered and a shot of air is used and forced back into the reservoir to help mix paint or clean the airbrush. This seems to be the main problem with the way traditional airbrush users, for the lack of a better word foul up an Aztek airbrush. Almost from the time that the airbrush was invented this was the gospel way to mix paint and clean the metal bodied "traditional" brush. When a traditional brush user does this it forces paint and cleaning fluid past the "needle seal" in an Aztek airbrush. The paint and cleaning fluid then evaporates and leave a gummy residue on that needle to the point that it will freeze up the needle control and people will force the finger trigger which causes .........

2. The plastic connection in the trigger to break. It's part of the design of the Aztek airbrush to use the easiest to manufacture pieces to bring down the price of the brush. It works as long as you stay in the parameters of the brush. In the 3000s version of the Aztek that connection isn't plastic and is a slightly better, stronger metal piece. There are several online forums that show you how to clean up a gummed up needle control and how to PREVENT it from happening. So if your trigger freezes up DO NOT FORCE IT!! There is a very good post on the Aircraft Resources forum that will walk you through how to free up the needle and repair that problem if your trigger freezes up. Again this points out another difference between a "traditional" airbrush from the Aztek brush. If this happens with a traditional airbrush you just immerse the metal body in the cleaning fluid of your choice and "work" the piece until it comes free, can't do that with an Aztek because it is built to close tolerances when it comes to "forcing" a part. And a traditional airbrush user will, just out of habit, use a force that is ok to use on a metal brush.

3. Speaking of immersing the brush in your favorite cleaning fluid..... can't do that with an Aztek. Due to the design of the Aztek brush it depends on the air tube in the body of the brush to stay pliable so that the trigger will be able to shut off the air when you release the trigger. When the Aztek is immersed in cleaning fluids much past the metal ferrule in a "hot" cleaning fluid it will affect the plasticizers in that air tube and will cause it to deteriorate and eventually fail. But then again there really is no need to dunk the whole body of the Aztek and drowned it in any cleaning fluids unless, and it's a big unless, you have not read the first point that I wrote about and have been "back flushing" your brush. A traditional metal bodied airbrush will gladly be immersed in a bath of cleaning fluids with little or no problem as long as rubber o seals are taken into account. So a traditional airbrush user will out of habit cause problems for himself by over use of cleaning fluids on the body of an Aztek air brush..

4. Just like a traditional air brush you still have to make adjustments to the nozzle control before you spray paint, sometimes with a Mac valve or positioning the needle in the chuck, etc, etc...... With an Aztek the best way to adjust the needle to with the ferruled wheel. With a traditional you can adjust the brush so that with the first pull of the trigger all you will get is air, but with an Aztek it is usual for the nozzle to be set where with the first pull of the trigger you will get paint and air so you have to adjust the ferruled wheel to stop the paint flow.

5. The nozzles can be soaked in cleaning fluids, hot or not. And they can be taken apart and "deep" cleaned but that is not recommended by Testors. I confess I have done it, but not often maybe twice a year or when the nozzles give me problems. The recommended cleaning procedure in this letter is to soak them in Acetone or the appropriate cleaning fluid for no more than 10 minutes but I have left them in overnight - ish. There are several forum posts that will walk you through the process of "deep" cleaning the nozzles.

6. I have only the plastic or resin bodied Aztek air brushes, but I think this also applies to the metal bodied Azteks too because the internals are the same only the outside has changed not the internal workings.

So I think, and I only think, that most of the problems that people have with the Aztek air brush is the fact that they, out of habit, treat the Aztek as a traditional metal bodied old school air brush. Rather than using it as an Aztek air brush. It's not a problem of the user, it seems to be a problem of communication from Testors. It boils down to a matter of taste, like do you prefer a PC or an Apple 'puter? They both work well but they are very different and I think it's the same with the Aztek line of air brushes. In their haste to make an air brush for the masses they forgot to tell the traditionalists that it needs to be handled a little different. I use my Aztek for mostly acrylic paints and have not used much in the way of "hot" solvents or cleaning fluids on it and it works for me.

VERY GOOD information!!

THX,

Frankie