Danny_G Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 I'm not into old cars but this is very impressive! How did you attach those wires for the door hinges? What kind of glue is this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 I'm not into old cars but this is very impressive! How did you attach those wires for the door hinges? What kind of glue is this? It's called JB Weld. A 2 part epoxy with metal in it. It's a dark grey/black when mixed and goes off in about 2 minutes. Hard as iron when set. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Couldn't resist... Roy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Looking splendid Roy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Bloody marvelous Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 I was just about to say that I have the (unstarted!) MFH 1/12 model of this engine to do at some point, and was wondering if pictures of any of MFH parts would be helpful as a reference - but I know realize that in fcat I shall be using this build/thread as a reference for me to improve on the MFH base model when I get round to it!! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 A small update. I now have a rear screen. It was vac formed over the original body buck so it fits a treat. I'm quite pleased with it. I also couldn't resist sticking wheels under the shell to see how it's going. The rear wheels will actually be much 'fatter'. Roy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 (edited) looking great, all wheels in place...... in any case i don t think any two 250 GT had exactly the same split and camber etc. you succeeded in giving the wheels this 'filled cheeks' look of the 250 hahaha Roy your car should be given its own chassis number from ferrari BY PHIL HILL: The GTO's beautiful Scaglietti-built bodywork wraps around a space frame that is a development of the SWB's, even keeping the same 94.4-inch wheelbase. The front suspension is typical Ferrari, with a pair of unequal-length A-arms, coil springs, Koni shocks, and an anti-roll bar. In 1962, the use of independent rear suspensions was only a few years old at Ferrari, and so we weren't surprised to find the GTO retained the old live rear axle. And why not? The SWBs had been quite successful with them, it was a dependable system, and it kept the problems of car maintenance to a minimum. These are especially good reasons for cars that would get a great deal of long-distance racing, often in the hands of customers. GTO rear suspensions also have semi-elliptic springs and Koni shocks, some of which use auxiliary coil springs. There were four basic locating links for the car's axle, with a Watt linkage to control lateral motion. Carrying over the SWB's rear disc brakes was considered sufficient, but the extra speed of the GTO caused Ferrari to employ the same big Girling disc brakes at the front of the GTO that the sport prototypes used at each wheel. Tires for the GTO were Dunlops—600x15s in front and 700x15s at the back—mounted on the traditional Borrani wire wheels. Edited June 6, 2016 by sharknose156 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the info there Mr S. I've been plotting out the front linkages etc in relation to my wheels and the engine frame. I've employed a degree of 'Artistic licence' with this area as most of it will eventually be invisible, and also, I need to make it 'man' enough to hold up the surprisingly hefty engine assembly which is all pretty much solid resin. Even so, I've followed the 'look' of the GTO setup so that the few bits that will be visible look just about right. Springs etc and some other bits still to add. I've now also cast the twin rads, painted and fitted them with part of the front frame. Lots more still to add here. All the 'grot' under the front end of the body will eventually be cleaned up, painted or covered by other panels. Also, after literally hours of cutting, trimming, binning, starting again, I have the front screen in. It still needs the surrounding trim though. Plodding along... Roy. Edited June 9, 2016 by roymattblack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 You produce nothing less than works of art Roy, just incredible how you do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borez Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 (edited) What can you say to that really, just stunning work Edited June 9, 2016 by Borez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 wot they said! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 Thanks guys. As other often say in their own threads, it keeps the enthusiasm going when others comment on the waffle and bits of plastic-bashing. There are times when I (and no doubt most/everyone here) hit a mental brick wall and it all stops because you can't see a way forwards. With scratch stuff, it isn't any worse than with a kit, but there aren't any 'instructions' or 'someone else's build' to look at for help. I had a naff night's sleep on Tuesday but at about 3.30 am I had a brainwave about HOW I was going to make fatter rear tyres and wheels than the fronts. Simple. Cast 2/3 of a tyre, twice. Flatten the rear faces on my bench sander and glue the two halves together! One 'fat' tyre. I'll do something similar with the rims before wiring them. Funny how answers come at odd times. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Your windows are pieces of art, as is the rest of course. Sounds like a simple solution to get the fat rear tyres, but it will probably not be easy to to make the two halfs look like one tyre. Anyway, I' m confident that you will succeed in doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny_G Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 ... Funny how answers come at odd times. Roy. I have this all the time. The brain just keeps on working no matter if the body is asleep or not. Even more, some of the best ideas come at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Your windows are pieces of art, as is the rest of course. totally second that, the car looks so real you expect the engine to come alive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 (edited) Many thanks lads. Extremely kind words about my plastic-bashing. Only one pic update today but BOY did the work take some time. One of those occasions where you want to launch the model. Gluing the front screen all round and then adding the trim. It took ages as I didn't want to get glue anywhere on the screen or the paint. I just used umpteen damp cloths draped in various places, and kept moving them about so I could glue the next section. It was done with CA on a knife blade, sliding the point in and letting the CA run down the blade and along the join by capillary action. The black trim is 0.5mm butyl rubber attached with 'Mammoth' D/S tape - it ain't ever going anywhere... It's the same rubber I used on the screens and hardtop seal on my Cunningham E Type. Then the silver line was added using thin strips cut from a vinyl sheet. I used chrome first but it looked too 'blingy' so off it all came and silver went on. Dashboard next hopefully, then the floor can be fixed... Roy. Edited June 10, 2016 by roymattblack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 It just goes to show that one of the best tools in your toolbox when building models is patience! I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one who thinks about how to solve a problem or decide the next step when I fall asleep, while I sleep and try to remember when I wake up. I have a note pad and pen in the bedroom and I have been known to wake up in the middle of the night and try and write things down from what I've been dreaming about. They are usually good or helpful ideas but, I have a hard time reading what I wrote. I don't know whether or not you mentioned how you built the wheels yet but, I'm curious. Are the hubs and outer wheel resin, 3D printed or turned aluminum? I remember that you may have mentioned that the wires are metal wire but, I always wondered how you were going to scratch build the wheels. They are coming out nicely and I know that they couldn't have been very easy to get right. It is looking very good and that's a nice touch with the W/S rubber under the chrome trim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) Hello Wayne. The wheel hubs and rims are cast in resin from turned metal masters. The spokes are wire and I can now build a wheel in about an hour. I've made up a small 'jig' that holds all the parts in alignment and everything is bonded with tiny dots of cyano before taking the completed wheel out of the jig. The wheels are a tight push-fit into my own cast resin tyres. I do keep looking at my Airfix Bentley and thinking about making decent wire wheels for it - maybe some time. Not much to show over this weekend as it was very busy, away from models. The front frame is getting there as is the suspension and gubbins. As I mentioned before, literally none of it is visible once built so I'm using some artistic licence to get a setup that looks like the actual car, but is actually far sturdier to hold up the weight of the model. I've added various strengthening and support parts that aren't too obtrusive and won't be seen in the end. The wheels aren't actually fixed yet. Roy. Edited June 13, 2016 by roymattblack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Absolutely brilliant, just read from beginning to end and by jove thats ace, Keep up the amazing work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) Thanks A5h. Nice to have a new person on board for my waffle. As always - anybody - any questions, please ask. A wee bit more: Radiator pipes made and fitted. It's now getting to be increasingly difficult to fit and remove the front section to the body to check clearances, due to all the bits of plumbing and frame tubes that are growing by the hour. It takes a good five minutes of fiddling to get it all together, and then another 5 minutes to get it apart without ripping stuff off. The engine etc will probably stay out for a while now as I start on the interior, dash and inside rear deck which will also entail fitting the boot lid and fuel tank etc. Roy. Edited June 13, 2016 by roymattblack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 As always great work Roy you amaze me at what's possible all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny_G Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 ... As always - anybody - any questions, please ask. ... Amazing work & read. But how on eath did you make that windshield? It seems to fit perfectly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Hello Danny. The front and rear screens were vac formed over the original body buck some time ago. The rear screen literally dropped into place but the front one was a right pain to fit even though it's the right shape. No sooner had I attached one part, then went to fix the other side/end, the first part came adrift. It almost drove me nuts. In the end I taped the whole screen in place from the inside, so I could see where to drip-feed C/A glue around the edges. I used minimal glue at this stage as I didn't want it bleeding through onto the tape, and gluing it into the car. The tape was then peeled out and a proper bead of glue run around the whole screen. The rubber trim went on next, followed by the silver line, and the inside of the car had an aluminium foil trim stuck all round the screen which overlaps onto the surrounding body. It will be hidden when I start adding the inner trim panels and dashboard. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny_G Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Thanks for your quick answer. I have read about the very cumbersome process of attaching it in your post. The risk to mess up the piece must have been monumental. I have protected the windshield of my Aventador like my eyeball, moved it far away upon first inspection of the kit. Often thought how I might replace it in case anything goes wrong. So just out of curiosity: could you explain the process of vac forming in more detail? Do you have access to any special machinery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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