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Fine detail brushes


stoutdave

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Oh good... I don't have to do my soliloquy on W&N Series 7. I have a 000 that is almost as old as Britmodeller, and it's still holding a good point. However, you have to look after brushes to see good service from them. Clean them properly, don't swish them on the bottom of the water/thinners jar, and always coax them back to a point when you put them away. Additionally, a good deep-clean every now and again helps to clean the base of the bristles, preventing a solid clump that doesn't hold paint anymore, and makes the brush less flexible :)

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Thanks guys ... Mike I really tried to keep these brushes in clean tip top condition but they did indeed just decide to rapidly give up the ghost. I know I should buy some better brushes so thanks for for the pointer. I'll get some of these ordered :)

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Rosemary Series 33 Kolinskys. As good as or better than a W&N 7, at a fraction of the price. I've never found anything better for 28mm figures, doing eyes, teeth, buttons and whatnot.

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Rosemary Series 33 Kolinskys. As good as or better than a W&N 7, at a fraction of the price. I've never found anything better for 28mm figures, doing eyes, teeth, buttons and whatnot.

Rosemary brushes are first class and for the quality good value. She has brushes for every type of work you can think of. Thick thin chisel flat and long or short handle

Order in the afternoon and it is there next day and very rock bottom delivery charges.

Laurei

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Thanks Mitch. K. I didn't know about Rosemary & Co or Series 33 Kolinsky. At the moment I'm using a few sets of Humbrol Palpo sables, but know and appreciate the value of a quality sable brush, their longevity and difference it makes to any paint job if well looked after.

Never had a duff product from W&N either, -have a selection of their oils winging their way to me right now for figure and fuselage painting and shading. But like most I expect, I'm always interested in spreading my modelling budget further without sacrificing quality, and appreciate information that helps achieve that.

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Biggles, a Kolinsky, like a W&N7 or a Rosemary 33, is a world of difference from a sable. I use sables in larger sizes (because I'm mean!) but in 0, 2/0 down to 10/0, a Kolinsky is better than a sable the way that a sable beats a nylon brush!

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Been contemplating buying brushes from this ebay store called abcbrushes. They are new but seconds with some flaws in them. I haven't heard any negative feedback yet on them and what you can buy usually for one brush there you can sometimes buy up to 10!

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I use Raphael series 8404 kolinsky,, although I have finer I find that the 0 is used most of the time and keeps its point. They are not cheap and I cant compare them to W&N but as far as im concerned they are the best.

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Do these brushes all paint enamels ? And does anyone have a link to some of the brushes ? I'm confused by a lot of the terminology being banded about :(

Short answer, sort of. This link provides a good summary of brush types: http://www.artistpaintbrush.com/artist_paint_brushes.php

Tim

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I've recently found these Pro-Arte White nylon brushes at my local art shop, I know a lot of artists turn their noses up at nylon brushes preferring natural sable ones but I've found they hold their shape a lot better with acrylic paints and don't fan or split.

They're not overly expensive so worth a shot if you can find them. :)

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Mike: "Additionally, a good deep-clean every now and again helps to clean the base of the bristles..."

What do you use for a deep clean guys? I invested in some Tamiya modelling brushes and I like them (a lot) and want to keep them in good condition. TIA.

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I wet the brush up to the ferrule with cellulose thinners, and dab it side-on in a puddle until the puddle is looking dirty. Clean the brush in fresh kitchen roll, and get some clean thinners, repeating as necessary until the thinners is running clear. I use a Pringles lid or similar as a base so it doesn't melt my big cutting mat. :) Make sure you shape the brush whilst wet and store it facing up in your jar, and don't use it until properly dry, especially if you're going to be painting in acrylics.

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  • 11 months later...
On 14/03/2016 at 16:01, Mike said:

I wet the brush up to the ferrule with cellulose thinners, and dab it side-on in a puddle until the puddle is looking dirty. Clean the brush in fresh kitchen roll, and get some clean thinners, repeating as necessary until the thinners is running clear. I use a Pringles lid or similar as a base so it doesn't melt my big cutting mat. :) Make sure you shape the brush whilst wet and store it facing up in your jar, and don't use it until properly dry, especially if you're going to be painting in acrylics.

I just invested in some W&N Series 7 brushes and was wondering if they also need conditioning to keep the bristles at their best.

I'm going to be using Tamiya acrylics - is it ok to clean these brushes with just IPA?

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I usually just swish them in water if I've been using acrylics, but every now & again I will clean them by dipping them in cellulose thinners (don't get that on the wood, as it'll strip the paint!), and dabbing them side-on onto a piece of kitchen roll.  The gunge that comes out of the stock and ferrule of the brush is always a mucky green, and before too long there's so little stain coming out, it's not worth continuing.  Then I reshape the bristles with a bit of spit as I run them between thumb & forefinger, and sit them upright to dry thoroughly.  One of mine must have lasted 5-7 years with just that routine, and it still holds a pretty good point :)

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Do all that.

Then when you think you have them clean , try some 'Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver' .

Follow the directions and you will be amazed at the crap still coming out of the brush , this deep cleans the base of the bristles.

Once a year treatment.

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