Jump to content

As a result of the close-down of the UK by the British Government last night, we have made all the Buy/Sell areas read-only until we open back up again, so please have a look at the announcement linked here.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Sign in to follow this  

Matt? Satin? Finish.

Recommended Posts


I'm new here although I've gained a huge amount of inspiration from the Builds here.

I've spent the last 4-5 Months building an Eduard 1:48 Spitfire combined with the Brigade

Twin-Seater Resin conversion. Painted with Tamiya Acrylics.

After applying the Decals I want to apply a Matt/Satin finish

but I REALLY want to maintain the surface detail. What I'm asking is can I apply the Clear Coat

directly over the Decals?? I've read alot about applying a Gloss Coat then Decals, then Final finish.

do I really need the Gloss Coat, won't this suffocate the detail?

Secondly It seems as though Windsor & Newton Galleria Matt is the finish of choice but all the Spitfires

I've seen have a "Satin" like finish. Does the Windsor & Newton Galleria Satin give the correct sort of look? I'm abit

concerned about the Matt being TOO Matt.

Finally, I'd like to add abit of a Wash to it afterwards, just to slightly highlight the surface detail, will this work the Satin

finish? especially as the one I'm building is, in reality, immaculate (I'm trying to represent it as it is now).

Sorry for asking quite so many questions, but I really don't want to screw this up.

Many thanks,


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

1. If the transfers are not applied to a smooth finish, then you will run the risk of poor adhesion and there will probably be some silvering under any clear areas (for example between the serial digits). That is why people add a gloss coat before applying the transfers.

2. Yes you can apply your final coat directly over the transfers, but ensure they are dry first.

3. If you are concerned about this, try the techniques over some scrap plastic, and see if the final result is to your liking. Some of us have an old "mule" to use for such work, but you could try it on the insides of another kit - or even the outside. The paint and varnishes can always be removed to start again afresh.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Many thanks for the advice, I like the idea of a "Mule". I don't have one

but I can find something similar.

I'll just have to play & see what shakes out.

A great many thanks for you help,


Edited by KB78

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Create New...