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Eldridge Fiat Mefisto 1/12 Italeri - Brief WIP


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i wrote the Fiat museum...but they reply with so much delay, if at all... probably tipping a round table to call the spirits who built the engine.

Typical of the Italian way! :)

I concur, they are mesh intake gravel guards stuck on with some kind of old gak, and probably from a later period. I won't be surprised if it ran without them back in the day (so the kit part apertures could be drilled out!). Having said the one would think they would have some kind of protection when used in an airship configuration?

There are clearer pics around, but can't find them now. To help research look for pre-war Solex carbs, as they are very similar. You'll see from search results that the carbs show little sign of having any filter attachment points!

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Gentlemen, great to be back in full swing.... thank you very much for your inputs.

yes i looked at solex carbs, excellent idea by the way. And other of the same period.

just for general info, without being pedantic :banghead: and for those who are interested in man's ingenuity :sleep_1: :

look at these beauties

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/brass-carburetor

http://www.prewarcar.com/index.php?option=com_caradvert&Itemid=106&section_id=&dealer=0&part_category=20&part_manufacturer=0

Botafogo Fiat JL

Botafego_zpsojnzpzwe.jpg

Untitled%20copy%202_zpslgerr4qe.jpg

Chevrolet patent

US%20patemt%20Chevrolet%20copy_zpsjpqjnu

solex

9113_1460623159_resized_image_zpsdykzets

Ford T

Ford%20T_zpsicsznvb0.jpg

Edited by sharknose156
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haha, yes, they look like painful tubes for hydraulics, gymnastics and mechanics !

Explains why Henry only had Edsel, Chevrolet had only two sons and William Durant seems to only have had Cliff. :shutup:

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That one looks postively obscene!

Roy.

Ha ha; it's turning into Six Degrees of Separation here - what with the mention of Edsel from Sam!

You guys know why it's thought the Edsel didn't sell, right?! ;-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

little progress to report, been working on preparing the body for priming and painting. will post pics very soon.

also working on detailing the engine a little. Been researching pre war spark plugs and cables... here is what i found and settled for :

so... pre war spark plugs for those gentlemen ( and ladies ) who can appreciate:

spark%20plug%20copy_zpsknsb1l5b.jpg

spark%20plug%203%20copy_zpspjmr0iw3.jpg

L1030145_zpskmhntztb.jpg

top is the Italeri provided solution IMO both cable and pin out of scale

below is a new spark plug 'à la' pre-war and silk cable and small pin.

so now in process of repeating this 23 more time. Needless to say i did this first one 'a good deal of times' before i could get it right.

will post pics of the body priming and painting as soon as possible

cheers for now.

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Thank you gentlemen. Joke aside on the girl advertising the spark plugs, one of the aspects of scale modeling i enjoy very much is the historical research.

Jeremy, the silk cables are 0.6 mm from Prime Miniatures. Painted nato black with a hand brush ( AK interactive colors )

for the pin i simply used the older bigger pins, cut it, filed it using 50 % or less and drilled a smaller hole.

for the rubber insulator i used the Italeri original cable, painted flat black to give the old rubber look.

spent the afternoon priming and wet/dry sanding while following the F1 race, which was won by Young Vertsappen, youngest ever F1 winner at 18.

Gravity Colors Primer:

Here i used a Gravity Color primer for the first time. I found it very thin ( which i like ) and 'grabby'. The rivets etc. are still crisp, although perhaps not clear in the picture.

i used 25 psi at about 10 - 15 cm with a H&S airbrush 0.2 mm. I first test-used spraying with a 0.4 mm but too much air as going trough and the results were terrible.

0.2 was perfect for my taste, it also cleaned very well and very quickly from the airbrush without using any nuclear chemical cleaners.

Here is a pic after the first application. at this stage, it still needs wet/dry and then another application or two.

2219c5a9-a956-4fa7-be29-95e4c51d4c64_zps

Edited by sharknose156
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Thanks for the info.

You used a 0.2 to paint? You must have the patience of a saint! I blasted mine with 0.5mm trigger type a/b!

I used to follow F1, but stopped with the end of Mika's and Michael's rivalry. The new cars no longer look that appealing to me.

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I had my DVR set to record the race that, started here at 4:30 am but, the power went off at 3:30 am and didn't come back on until after 6:00 am. So, I missed the whole thing since it doesn't record with no power, Grr. Nice job on the plugs and good to see you back at it!

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Jeremy yes 0.2 small layers, it is fine, i prefer like this than too fast.

Larchiefeng, Thanks. Unfortunately, my work is distracting me from this build... to my great frustration.

on F1: been following F1 since a kid in the early 70's and did some little racing as well ( FF and F3 ). But i admit the current generation of drivers, except perhaps for Hamilton do not have interesting personalities. The cars are ugly and undistinguishable from each other. Now they are talking of putting a hood ... after creating scalextric tracks instead of racing tracks. In any case, today was a good race. 4 guys could have won, and the one who did deserved it, is truly talented, in control of himself, and bold. Usually the engineers are the ones more deserving than their drivers at the end of a modern F1 race.

However, i don t mean to sound nostalgic. Whilst most sports with years became faster, more competitive and challenging; football, basketball, volleyball, golf, rugby, polo etc. F1 became more like an aquarium of spoilt brats racing each other wasting hundred of millions of whatever currency, just like popcorn, with much less spectacular challenges than their past elders.

Edited by sharknose156
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Thank you gentlemen. Joke aside on the girl advertising the spark plugs, one of the aspects of scale modeling i enjoy very much is the historical research.

Jeremy, the silk cables are 0.6 mm from Prime Miniatures. Painted nato black with a hand brush ( AK interactive colors )

for the pin i simply used the older bigger pins, cut it, filed it using 50 % or less and drilled a smaller hole.

for the rubber insulator i used the Italeri original cable, painted flat black to give the old rubber look.

spent the afternoon priming and wet/dry sanding while following the F1 race, which was won by Young Vertsappen, youngest ever F1 winner at 18.

Gravity Colors Primer:

Here i used a Gravity Color primer for the first time. I found it very thin ( which i like ) and 'grabby'. The rivets etc. are still crisp, although perhaps not clear in the picture.

i used 25 psi at about 10 - 15 cm with a H&S airbrush 0.2 mm. I first test-used spraying with a 0.4 mm but too much air as going trough and the results were terrible.

0.2 was perfect for my taste, it also cleaned very well and very quickly from the airbrush without using any nuclear chemical cleaners.

Here is a pic after the first application. at this stage, it still needs wet/dry and then another application or two.

2219c5a9-a956-4fa7-be29-95e4c51d4c64_zps

I find this with my H&S too, the 0.4mm nozzle seems to blow out a huge amount of paint. Trouble is though with most primers the 0.2 just clogs up all too easily.

I've never tried Gravity Color primer though.

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Borez :

My H&S never clogged with gravity primer or AK primer. Straight out of the bottle.

But i paint right away and never pause more than a few dozens seconds.

i also clean it immediately when done.

Gravity colors fantastic if you like thin paint, it keeps all details crisp. Then they have several possibilities with gloss or polish finish.

Edited by sharknose156
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I don't know if Dave from the painting and masking thread looks at this thread Sam. But, this is exactly the result, I was referring to about how thin of a layer of paint can go down with an airbrush and not lose detail. This is perfect for getting just enough primer on without losing any detail prior to spraying your color coat. Looking good.

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Don't you guys get uneven streaks using 0.2 mm on a big surface? I thin the primer / paint quite well, and using a 0.5 mm trigger type, it goes down very well, evenly covering big surfaces. Details are also not lost. Typically, 3 passes of the a/b with 5 minutes in between each pass will suffice.

I have to stress that it's the trigger type a/b and not the regular type of a/b.

Regards,

Jeremy

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Larchiefeng, yes i feel i get much more accurate results than with spraying with a can. However, for painting my next large scale model i may try a spray gun from iwata. I painted one of my RC planes with cans and it worked fine. But i am not comfortable for smaller scale and for details like Roy does. But he is in another league.

Jeremy, no uneven streaks at 0.2 but i still want to get the technique of using 0.4 mm right and bigger.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6gI9ljJsdo&index=2&list=PLRK4diRzRX1dR1mLnD9HGKdCtl2CxIiy6

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I just watched the YouTube video that you linked and it was very good and makes a good argument for adding a larger modeling spray gun to the tool chest if you're going to be building large models and want to use better paint not available in cans or if you just want to use an airbrush/spray gun instead of cans. Thanks for sharing.

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