Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted March 5, 2016 Posted March 5, 2016 With the Mossie T.III more or less done but waiting on the post man, decided to start something else. I've been looking for an excuse to use the Luftwaffe colours and this seemed ok to build OOB. I wanted a Battle of Britain coloured aircraft, and the Revell decals are a bit discoloured anyway. I'm well aware the new Airfix one is on the way, but this kit has been in the stash for years as has an FCM Battle of Britain decal sheet. I plan to build the lower of the two here: Anyway, I sprayed the interior in RLM02 with the new thinners my wife kept nagging me to test drive: I just drybrushed the instrument panel and dotted Humbrol Clearfix on the instruments to faux-glaze them. It'll do. Although OOB for speed, I couldn't leave it without seatbelts. I had seen the Eduard Superfabric ones and had a German bomber and German fighter set. They're quite expensive for one pair of belts and now that I've used them, I definately prefer photo etched seatbelts. I'm not very good at working with floppy stuff. Wood, metal, plastic, resin is all fine. Fabric is not. It takes me ages to iron a shirt. I know now though and whilst in my opinion they don't look as good as PE belts, they look a lot better than no belts. I glued the fuselage halves together after washing the cockpit in some dark brown I made up. I wasn't really paying attention properly when I assembled the wings, and neglected to drill the holes for the dive brakes. After finding the inboard hole through the inverted gull, I then promptly mis-measured and therefore misdrilled the other two on one wing. No harm done and it's sorted now. Typically for Revell kits the propeller pivots on a stub moulded on to the spinner backplate. I prefer not to have the spinner and backplate fitted for painting and decalling and the Revell engineering requires commitment now. The hole in the cowling was way oversized anyway allowing the prop to rattle around so I drilled a bit of plasticard to be a snug fit for the prop and sawed out the kit hole thus: Wings and tailplanes & elevators fitted. Undercarriage on and engine fitted. I've started masking the canopy inside and out - Revell want you to use decals inside the canopy but I consistently fail whenever I attempt that so I'm painting. 8
Stew Dapple Posted March 25, 2016 Posted March 25, 2016 Well I'd say you were off to a good start Jamie, but you look to be about halfway through already, good progress mate I wish FCM* would re-release the Battle of Britain transfer set they did in 1/72, it had some unusual subjects on it. Cheers, Stew * I seem to recall hearing somewhere that another decal company had taken over FCM but I can't remember who, or indeed if I actually heard that or if it was just a product of my fevered imagination. 1
Bob Henry Posted March 28, 2016 Posted March 28, 2016 I'm liking this a lot !! Looking forward to more updates. Bob H.
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted March 28, 2016 Author Posted March 28, 2016 Thanks gents (or ladies - if any of you happen to be!) I'm just trying to finish off that Mossie and Tempest and I'll get back on to this one. I'm toying with the ide of making the internal canopy frames rather than painting them on to the inside of the glazing ... thoughts?
Stew Dapple Posted March 28, 2016 Posted March 28, 2016 Hi Jamie, Slaters Microstrip is my first thought - handy to have around and I can't think of anything better suited for that task. Cheers, Stew
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted March 28, 2016 Author Posted March 28, 2016 Thanks Stew - I have some of that in the supply stash
Duncan B Posted March 28, 2016 Posted March 28, 2016 I've just found this, Jamie you are racing through this one. Why do you need an excuse to use Luftwaffe colours? They are the only colours anyone should need!! Duncan B (not at all fixated on Luftwaffe subjects) 1
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted March 28, 2016 Author Posted March 28, 2016 When I say excuse Mr B, what I really mean is that despite my impressive collection of half-built models, I had nothing which required RLM70/71/65/02 knocking about and was forced to open a new box and start a new kit! 1
Duncan B Posted March 28, 2016 Posted March 28, 2016 When I say excuse Mr B, what I really mean is that despite my impressive collection of half-built models, I had nothing which required RLM70/71/65/02 knocking about and was forced to open a new box and start a new kit! Ah, now I understand, all the other half built kits you have require RLM 74/75/76 yes? DB
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted March 28, 2016 Author Posted March 28, 2016 Well, 78/79/80 but let's not split hairs! 1
Darby Posted March 28, 2016 Posted March 28, 2016 Nice cockpit and rapid progress made by the looks of it. Do like the B1/2 version of this bird. Where did you get that cutting mat? I'm rapidly running out of clean spaces to cut on mine.
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted March 28, 2016 Author Posted March 28, 2016 The cutting mat is made by Infini Model from South Korea.
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted April 16, 2016 Author Posted April 16, 2016 I have applied some pre-shading and RLM65 this afternoon whilst waiting for other things to dry. 2
Harfoot Posted April 16, 2016 Posted April 16, 2016 Looking good, i made this kit a few years ago and have great memories of it
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted April 16, 2016 Author Posted April 16, 2016 It's hard to imagine a worse aeroplane to mask. Not only is it ugly, it is an absolute chore to prepare for paint! 2
Bob Henry Posted April 17, 2016 Posted April 17, 2016 Take your time on the masking operation. It will definitely be worth it. It looks really good so far. Bob H.
lesthegringo Posted April 17, 2016 Posted April 17, 2016 It's hard to imagine a worse aeroplane to mask. Not only is it ugly, it is an absolute chore to prepare for paint! Don't know how I missed this thread, I have one of these on the slow build bench. I deliberately left the undercarriage spats off until after painting to help with this plus I invested in the Eduard masking set, but I agree they are a pain to mask. Not impressed by the way that the engine cowling attaches to the front of the fuselage, I'm having to redo mine due to how bad a job I made of it. Look forward to seeing this built Les
dazdot Posted April 18, 2016 Posted April 18, 2016 Great job. Have you tried masking large areas with cling film held down at the edges with tape? It saves tape and allows you to go over lumps and bumps with ease
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted April 18, 2016 Author Posted April 18, 2016 I have no idea what I was thinking when I started this thread, but the kit is a Revell kit - not Italeri . I haven't tried clingfilm, but may give it a go It's not so much the wheel spats and things on this, it's more the trailing edges and the like. Due to the configuration, it is necessary to get a good masking seal all the way to the trailing edge of the wing, which means fishing tape between the wing and the control surfaces. The tape seems magnetically attracted to other tape when poking it through the narrow gap and tacks prematurely. It's quite frustrating!
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted May 1, 2016 Author Posted May 1, 2016 I found a few hours to finish masking and spray on some RLM71 with the new airbrush. I'm learning all over again, but I quite like the new airbrush overall. I think I might miss drying off the paint as I go with a proper dual action though - but I'm keeping the Revell Vario plumbed in and can do that by swapping brushes if I need to. 1
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted May 4, 2016 Author Posted May 4, 2016 Masking. More ruddy masking. I'd be lying if I said I enjoyed masking splinter schemes. They're just a faff. And RLM70 sprayed on: 2
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now