elderly Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 On the home stretch now! I never thought I could complete a build so quickly! I have pretty much finished the bodywork,....... That paint job looks VERY nice, and I like the way you've photgraphed it (lighting and choice of focal lengths).I wish that Pocher ( who are strangely wedded to producing Lamborghini models) would produce a 1/8th Muira. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imster Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 Thank you, not too much. If you will use them, let them dry for a week or more. They dry very slowly by air, but they have two defining advantages: They won't break on rubber things, like acrylic things and you can put it away with a tissue for a week or so, if it*s too much for you. Cheers from Germany Thanks mate, I cant wait to try this product That paint job looks VERY nice, and I like the way you've photgraphed it (lighting and choice of focal lengths). I wish that Pocher ( who are strangely wedded to producing Lamborghini models) would produce a 1/8th Muira. Thanks mate, it would be awesome if Pocher released this, who knows whats in store in the future... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imster Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 I actually had this done a while ago but havent had time to upload etc. Overall and pretty simple kit, I purposefully didnt go crazy with getting everything detailed and everything perfect. This was more of a chill out build in preparation for the next super detailed build I will do. I also got the chance to use Gravity Colors paints and I am very pleased with the outcome, for me in Australia its a lot easier and cheaper to get Gravity Colors as opposed to Zero Paints. I would assume the same for US customers too as Gravity is based in Florida. I would recommend this kit to a beginner builder who wants a kit that will go together pretty easily without fuss and hassles. For the more advanced modeller, there is a little bit of scope to add further detail and perhaps make doors that open and close but aside from that there would be very little that can be enhanced on this kit. Heres the link to the final pics: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999353-lamborghini-miura/ Some things to keep in mind for this kit: - There is lots of flash and some bits that look like flash but are actual parts for the kit, be careful when cutting off the sprue and double check everything! - Decals are terrible! They seem to have a matte finish to them and also the adhesive footprint is huge compared to the actual size of the decal you require so you have to trim the decals down and in some cases this is made difficult due to the size of some of them. - Go over the body and look for sink marks, I made the mistake of not really looking at the body too closely so there are tiny sink marks, luckily for me the pearlescent paint does a good job to hide them I think that pretty much covers it, thanks for watching this WIP and feel free to ask any questions you like 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetroRacing Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Very nice. Haven't checked the rfi yet but I have the Jota version and I think I'm right in thinking these kits have an engine but a none opening clamshell. What can be seen of it when it's finished? I ask coz an upgrade set comes with air trumpets and I didn't know whether they were worth it. Ashley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imster Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Very nice. Haven't checked the rfi yet but I have the Jota version and I think I'm right in thinking these kits have an engine but a none opening clamshell. What can be seen of it when it's finished? I ask coz an upgrade set comes with air trumpets and I didn't know whether they were worth it. Ashley Thanks Ashley, I wouldnt really call it an engine, more like a block of plastic with some detail at the top and bottom (where you can see). There wouldnt be any point in having am open engine bay unless you do some seriously extensive mods. As for what can be seen? Very little, you can peek through the slats but you wont get a good view of the engine, if I were you I wouldnt bother with the air trumpets as you probably wont see them at all 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetroRacing Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Thanks for confirming what I suspected Ashley 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Hello. Looks great, also the tyres. Did you use the oil paint? If so, what do you think about it, how it worked. Cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imster Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Hello. Looks great, also the tyres. Did you use the oil paint? If so, what do you think about it, how it worked. Cheers Hey bbudde! I ordered the oil paint but it hasnt arrived yet, once it comes I will give it a shot. As for when I use the oil paint, do i paint it straight on or do i need to thin it down with something? and is it a case of brushing it on or dabbing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) Normally you can paint it. Try it on on a spare wheel or something like that ( tubes, hoses in rubber vinyl and plastic to get a sense for oil paints. Try also to paint it and remove slowly a bit with a Q-tip or kitchen tissue. You can also try to paint with a Q-tip, but I don't know, if it will loose some wadding. But I`wouldn't bother too much on that, as it dries very slowly. So enough time to remove such things. I never tried to airbrush those paints, but if you thin them, use something like white spirit or something similar from a pharmacy. There is a special turpentine for oil paints. With normal enamel thinners they will loose some brightness and depth, I think. The drying process is unstressed in a steady manner from the top to the bottom. That means the resin harden chemically by taking air and or while the oil thinner voltalize physically. So if you thin them, they will dry faster, but have only more to voltalize in relation to the amount of pigments and resin. Cheers Benedikt Edit: Just corrected my english Edited March 19, 2016 by bbudde 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popeye the Sailor Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 love that interior Imster.....how did you get that chrome detail to look like that? did you use a brush? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imster Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 love that interior Imster.....how did you get that chrome detail to look like that? did you use a brush? Some of the chrome are transfers which are provided in the kit. Some other bits are done with a new product I tried from Hasegawa, its basicallly like BMF but not as thin and fragile, you can it see it in the pic above on the gearshift stalk. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popeye the Sailor Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 (edited) I've never heard of the product....I'll have to check it out. I think I have them bookmarked awesome! what will you be building next? Edited March 20, 2016 by Popeye the Sailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 llooking great mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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