Randy Lutz Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 OK, it has been a week since I posted something, so here is one of my favourite Bf 110's. The model represents a Messerschmitt Bf 110G-2, of 4/Zerstorergeschwader 1, Wels, Austria in the spring of 1944. As usual the following was performed on the model. Fuselage - MG 81Z replaced with Aries resin guns - Eduard photo-etched seatbelts added - FuG25a IFF antenna made from piano wire - antenna wire made from stretched sprue - MV Products lens used for gunsight objective lens - belly pack gun barrels replaced with aluminium tube Wings and Landing Gear - landing gear modified to sit at proper angle - exhaust pipes replaced with Quickboost resin pipes - pitot tube relocated to wing tip and replaced with hypodermic needles - MV Products lens added to landing light - starboard side air intake corrected Paint and Decals - airframe painted with Xtracolor X206 Graugrun RLM 74, X207 Grauviolett RLM 75 and X208 Lichtblau RLM 76 - model is weathered with chalk pastels - markings are from Cutting Edge 48045 References - Famous Airplanes of the World No. 41, Messerschmitt Bf110, Bunrin-Do - Aero Detail No. 21, Messerschmitt Bf110 - Walk Around No. 22, Bf-110G, Squadron Signal Publications - Monogram Close-up No. 18 Bf-110G, Monogram Technical Publications Cheers and thanks for looking Randy 37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Very nicely done, Randy! I love your comment in the preface: "As usual the following was performed on the model." It sounds like you've built this model so many times you have an ISO 9000 audited process! Seriously, a beautiful model and one that I'll bookmark. I have a few of the Eduard 1:72 kits in the stash and one of these days they'll make their way to the top. If I can make one look like your 1:48 build I'll be happy. Cheers, Bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Dyck Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Excellent! A top model. Love this subtle weathering, that shows that simple chalks still work very well to get a perfect result!! Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batcode Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 superb build looks very tasty. great job on the paint do like the soft weathering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ c Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Very nice `110, looks great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reini78 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 once again, lovely work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire31 Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Very impressive rendering! I especially like the perfectionist attention to detail, such as the wooden antenna post, the immaculate cockpit hood framing and the fact that panel joints are visible 'through' the markings. The chalk powder weathering looks very convincing as well. Maybe the paint finish of Luftwaffe aircraft generally had a bit more of an eggshell shine, but I won't press the point… ;-) Superb modelling! Kind regards, Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HL-10 Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 That is a very impressive looking 110! Very neat job on the canopy frame, a simply superb model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMCS Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Superbly done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-32 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Wow, that's gorgeous work, nicely done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWeasel Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Really good looking 110! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londo Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Amazing job! If you don't mind my asking, how did you manage to get the prop spinner markings so perfect. They are my nemesis and despite trying many methods, I usually surrender and just dip them. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Lutz Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Amazing job! If you don't mind my asking, how did you manage to get the prop spinner markings so perfect. They are my nemesis and despite trying many methods, I usually surrender and just dip them. Thanks Here is something I prepared for IPMS Canada a few years ago, which I hope will answer your question. I am a regular reader of the various Internet modelling discussion groups and it would seem that the two most frequently asked questions are; 1) how long does it take for Xtracolor paint to dry and 2) how do you paint the rings on conical shaped objects such as spinners, or the noses of bombs. I will save the Xtracolor question for another day, but I will answer the bomb-painting question. I have seen various suggestions offered, ranging from the plausible, to the inane. In my opinion, inserting the bomb in a drill chuck and while spinning at slow speed, bring a paint brush close to the bomb to apply the rings, or using a small elastic band to mask off the area of the stripe, both fall under the remotely plausible heading. A couple of examples of the inane would be dipping the nose of the bomb in a jar of paint for the first colour, dipping again for the second colour and finally dipping a third time to repeat the first colour. Jeezus! Even Dairy Queen doesn't dip their cones that often, besides, we all know how uncoothe it is to double-dip. Or how about placing your bomb in a lathe and while spinning, apply the stripes. Let me think...how many people do I know with an expensive lathe? Even if it were to work, it would not prove practical if one wanted to paint the rings on the nose of a Me-163 Komet, or He-162 Volksjager. Imagine trying to insert an entire model in the lathe's chuck. To this end, I offer my solution to this age-old question. At my local IPMS Chapter meeting, I did a short demo on my technique for painting the rings on bombs, or propeller spinners and for the most part, I was gazing at a sea of blank expressions. So, I am trying it again, but with step-by-step photos. All that is required are a few basic tools and some rudimentary math skills. The tools needed should be in any modeller's toolbox and consist of; a good quality masking tape such as Tamiya or 3M (I prefer 3M, but I have shown Tamiya in the photos as it photographs better); a circle template - plastic or steel, it does not matter and an OLFA circle cutter, or any comparable brand. If in some of the photos it looks a little sloppy, it is because this demo was performed in a rather hasty manner solely for purposes of illustration and normally more care would be taken in the execution. STEP 1 The first step is to paint the area of the bomb where you will want the stripe to appear. In photo #1, I have applied green to the tip of a bomb from the Fine Molds Judy. STEP 2 Once the paint is dry, take a small piece of masking tape and wrap it around the end of the bomb, making sure you cover the area where the stripe will be. Use as small a piece of tape as is possible to avoid wrinkles, or too much overlapping. In photo #2, you can see the bomb covered with tape. STEP 3 Next, using your circle template, insert the masked end of the bomb into whatever hole in the template will allow the bomb to poke through, to the point where you want the stripe and then draw a line on the tape, all the way around the bomb, with either pen or pencil, as seen in photo #3. I used a pen in this demo, as pencil does not write well on Tamiya tape, so it looks a little sloppy. Normally I use 3M tape and pencil works well on that brand of masking tape and the 0.5 lead in my small mechanical pencil allows for more precise marking. STEP 4 Now, peel off the tape and lay it out flat. As seen in photo #4, you will have a piece of tape with a short, slightly curved line. STEP 5 The next step, as seen in photo #5, is to match up the curvature of the ink line, to a hole in the circle template, which has the same curvature. I can tell you, it will NOT be the same size hole as used in photo #3. It does not need to be exact, but the closer the better. In this case, the curve matches a hole of 9/16" diameter. STEP 6 You no longer need the piece of tape with the ink line. It will be replaced with a new piece, which is laid out on a cutting surface. OK, are you with me so far? We are now getting to the basic math steps. Using the circle-cutter, set it to cut a circle equal to the diameter of the hole selected in photo #5. For the mathematically challenged, this means you would need to set the radius of the cutter at 9/32". As shown in photo #6, a circle is being cut into the new piece of tape. STEP 7 Then, adjust the circle cutter slightly to allow it to cut a smaller diameter than what was just cut in photo #6. Place the point of the cutter in the same centre hole as before and make another cut, just inside the previous, as illustrated in photo #7. STEP 8 When you remove the excess tape, you are left with a ring of tape as shown in photo #8, which will be used to mask the stripe on the bomb's nose. In reality, with that one ring of tape, you should have enough to mask about three bombs. STEP 9 Using a section of the tape ring, place it where you want the stripe on the bomb as seen in photo #9 and wrap it around the nose as per photo #10. Because of the curve in the tape, it will conform to the compound curves of the bomb with next to no wrinkling. Something that would prove impossible, if a straight piece of tape was used. In case your tape does not line up properly, try to ensure that the area where the two ends of the tape meet, will be hidden once the bomb is in place. STEP 10 The bomb can now be painted in your choice of colour(s) and once the painting is done, just peel off the tape and admire your perfect rings on the bomb or spinner. All of the above steps can be repeated, should you need concentric rings on your bombs. While the whole process sounds rather tedious and long, it should take no more than five minutes from start to finish. Using this technique, I was able to mask the rings on all 14 bombs in the Tamiya Lancaster in about 10 minutes. If you are not comfortable painting the rings on your bombs, this same approach can be used by substituting the appropriately coloured decal film in place of tape and skipping step 1 and step 10. Cheers Randy 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londo Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Thank you very much for the tutorial. I have a metal drill gauge but I don't have a circle cutter. I'll have to hunt one down. I had to laugh when you mentioned triple dipping. I did that on a propeller blade once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Val Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 stunning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triumph Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Excellent! A top model. Love this subtle weathering, that shows that simple chalks still work very well to get a perfect result!! Andy Yep love the weathering, hate pre shading this is much better and such a well built model you're happy to do close up photography. Well done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polo1112 Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 Fantastic Zerstörer ! I DO love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Lutz Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 On 4/28/2018 at 11:27 AM, polo1112 said: Fantastic Zerstörer ! I DO love it. Thanks very much.  Cheers Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Hi Randy, I'm pleased this popped up again, your description of nose ring marking is excellent, many thanks, I either missed it the first time or plain forgot. Your bf 110 is superb. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Lutz Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 13 hours ago, stevehnz said: Hi Randy, I'm pleased this popped up again, your description of nose ring marking is excellent, many thanks, I either missed it the first time or plain forgot. Your bf 110 is superb. Steve. Thanks Steve and I hope the tutorial proves useful for you.  Cheers Randy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo44 Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 Great job! Congratulations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickydicky210 Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 Excellent build and thanks for the painting instructions - very useful  ATB Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twentecable Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 Great looking model and thx for the tutorial on the masking ring Gr TC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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