ironwork Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Nice, but too complicated for me. I achieve a similar effect by leaving my models in the attic for 35yrs. Rearguards. Badder Happy mices There's a couple figures into the box, with a nice and relaxed attitude. I decided to add them for the sake of some more "life" to the model. Not a great effort in painting, since they will be half-sunk into the hatches. I was going fast and had to use my smartphone. I apologize for blurry pictures. EEEEEEEEEasy paintjob for uniforms. A basecoat, SDW Shading Colors mix, is painted and stretched over the primed figure (MULTIMEDIA PRIMER). Directly over this fresh layer, deep shadows added mixing base color with black. (very deep and contrasted shadows, due to figures laying into hatches) Same way for lights. No concern about blending colors, just put them where needed. Then some minutes beside a moderate warmth (a box with a 25 watt bulb) Most of the blending is made thanks to the peculiar features of these paints, and further helped by heat (mind SDW colors can be used like oil colors). At this stage we can adjust and refine the whole where needed, since paints into a palette will stay fresh for hours. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) So, Happy mices There's a couple figures into the box, with a nice and relaxed attitude. I decided to add them for the sake of some more "life" to the model. Not a great effort in painting, since they will be half-sunk into the hatches.I was going fast and had to use my smartphone. I apologize for blurry pictures. EEEEEEEEEasy paintjob for uniforms. A basecoat, SDW Shading Colors mix, is painted and stretched over the primed figure (MULTIMEDIA PRIMER). Directly over this fresh layer, deep shadows added mixing base color with black. (very deep and contrasted shadows, due to figures laying into hatches) Same way for lights. No concern about blending colors, just put them where needed. Then some minutes beside a moderate warmth (a box with a 25 watt bulb) Most of the blending is made thanks to the peculiar features of these paints, and further helped by heat (mind SDW colors can be used like oil colors). At this stage we can adjust and refine the whole where needed, since paints into a palette will stay fresh for hours. So, Ironwork, excellent stuff, really excellent, but do you work for the True Earth? Only, I googled the product above and your moniker came up again. Rearguards, Badder Edited March 18, 2016 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwork Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 Badder, I am True Earth 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shermaniac Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Stunning stuff Ironwork very impressive. Is there a UK outlet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwork Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 Hi Sher, only online shop. ps. for everyone : questions regarding sales, please refer to the company e mail [email protected] Here, for a correctness towards the forum and forum users, I willingly explain you product's use, but is no place for sales info and so on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Badder, I am True Earth Ah, well that explains that then! Good stuff. Rearguards, Badder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwork Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 @Badder Now we are coming towards the end of the whole finishing job.This is what I consider to be the most important step in shape enhance of a model : selective washes. We need clean water, a n.1 brush and a tone of Transparent Filter suited for tank's colors and contrasts. Here I opted for DARK AGEING.The black-circled area was already treated and dry, just to show the difference in depht and detail-stand-out such an effect can add. The area to be treated is dampened with just a bit of water. With the same wet brush, pick up a bit of pure-unthinned filter and distemper it into recesses and around raised objects. The wet brush helps the filter flow down the bristles, and gets a sort of thinning.The water-wet surface avails the filter to flow into recesses and further dilutes the wash. One more word : We all had the habit of wash = capillarity, Capillarity helps a wash to flow into recesses, but this same feature "pushes" the color outside. This is why many washes have to be cleaned with a solvent around edges, due to staining and shroud. Transparent Filters instead, when used as washes, have a minimal capillarity. We avail it with water, and "driving" a bit the filter with the brush around the objects.The counterpart ? Cleanliness. Once placed them in the right spot, and checked for overdoing, just forget them. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) i have general & dark agin and use for my pin washes... would you recommend doing on gloss or matt surface (I tend to do mine after an overall wash of green tying everything in and before streaking... may try the opposite on my E8 and streak first EDIT - and of course, STUNNING work Edited March 21, 2016 by robw_uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwork Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 @ Robw And here some pictures of the almost finished tank.Somewhat naked to be an US tank, but all extra charge will be added later, as soon as some infantrymen figures will be modified to fit over the hull. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Amazing job, i like a lot, cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Cracking build I do like a good well used Sherman Beefy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thevid Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 On 3/17/2016 at 10:26 AM, Badder said: Nice, but too complicated for me. I achieve a similar effect by leaving my models in the attic for 35yrs. Rearguards. Badder Two years for me, but I'm up for a challenge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingsman Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 Armour plate takes a long time to rust because of the corrosion-inhibiting elements in the alloy: carbon, manganese, nickel, chromium, etc. Unfortunately I think that much rust on your engine deck would probably take some years to develop. Weld metal will always remain a bright silvery colour and will not rust. Unarmoured mild steel parts such as fenders, bins, tool brackets etc will of course rust. You will get rust streaks from those mild steel parts, and from any mild steel fastenings like screws and bolts used on armoured parts. Sorry to be critical about the rust. Over-rusting seems to be something of a trend at the moment. I very much like the rest of the finish and I'll be saving this thread for later reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripaman Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 Hi Giuseppe, Very nice weathering I have bought most of your product and must say they are fantastic love the TEAM tutorials as well, I weathered my 1:24 Jeep with your product and found your product easy to use, no smell and this was my first time weathering, hope to do better and learn how you do it. Regards Richard 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwork Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 Hi Guys, and thank you for resurrecting this old topic @Ripaman : did you see the P & W free course ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Thanks for posting this tutorial. To someone like me who has never built a 1/35 AFV it is just the inspiration we need to give it a try. I really enjoyed reading my way through this thread. Duncan B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Looks great except for the metallic chipping.....Shermans just do not wear like that, their paint was really tough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripaman Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 On 2/26/2018 at 7:18 AM, ironwork said: Hi Guys, and thank you for resurrecting this old topic @Ripaman : did you see the P & W free course ? Yes thanks Regards Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now