Brandy Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 (edited) Good luck with that one, Jason! I got a start on the primer today and screwed it up. I used Model Master Acryl White primer for the first time and over thinned it....it ran! I let it dry and when I tried to sand it it peeled! I then resprayed it, not thinned as much, and didn't get much better results, so let it dry, sanded it (carefully) again and resprayed with Tamiya flat white - Much better - I should've used that from the start! However, I'm not impressed with the rib tapes......width wise they're not too bad, but they're way too prominent for scale and don't look any better than the original moulded Airfix efforts! I think I'll remove them and just use paint to hint at the ribs. let's face it, in this scale there should be virtually no visual difference at all between the ribs and the wing surface, so I think they have to go..... Ian Edited July 12, 2017 by limeypilot 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Looking good! How about applying several coats of thick paint / spray on filler and rubbing down? Christian, exiled to africa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 I'd go with wyverns4's suggestion - mask everything except the ribs - then use a few coats of high build primer. Unmask, then lightly micromesh over the "ribs" and you should be good to go 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 Thanks guys, I took a slightly different take on the suggestion and sprayed everything a couple of times, then sanded down the ribs to remove the paint from them...same result, and I'm happy with it. Certainly a lot less effort, thanks for the idea, Christian! The paint is now hardening up before I attempt to mark the wing undersides to represent the internal structure. Once that is done I will fit the upper wing and do any filling etc required. This is a slightly awkward arrangement as I would usually not have to use filler for the upper wing....fortunately there is quite a pronounced stagger so access to the underside of the upper, and topside of the lower, wings shouldn't be too difficult with both in place. The plan is to mask off the wing undersides once it's all fitted, spray everything with the final light blue, then unmask and give the undersides a light coat so the "framework" shows through....we'll see how that plan works..... Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ascoteer Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Wow! How did I miss this? I'm not a WW1 modeller but this is great, back to basics, proper modelling. Great stuff Ian! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Kesterton Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Great work! I keep having to remind myself this is a 1/72 scale kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Thanks Debs welcome aboard! Anthony, thanks, it's nice to know that it looks bigger - must be getting some of it right! I've got a fair bit done this weekend, starting with rubbing back the paint on the rib tapes and marking the structure on the undersides, this was then sealed with a dull coat to stop it smudging although I'm afraid just by doing it (I used a 2b pencil), it got a little smudged...hopefully it'll just look dirty when done! I also got the upper wing attached and blended in....a lot of very patient filling and sanding over the last day or so but I'm happy with it, even though it was very tricky to get to underneath... I then got the holes for the rollover cage drilled. Then I found something that I should have discovered earlier - the radiators were too far back and a little too high - only 1mm or so, but that's enough to make it look wrong! That led to more filling and even more delicate sanding to get the locating slots filled without damaging what I'd already done. It worked out ok, so I filed the rads to fit on the surface instead of into the slots (just 1mm or so off the bottom worked nicely), filled the front and back of them to make them flush (the kit parts have vary noticeable "rims" on them which shouldn't be there) and fitted them. With those in place I had a good reference for the inspection panels and vents, which were made form 5thou strip. When they were dry, I sanded them down to smooth them off and tidy them up. I just have one more small vent to add under the left wing, just above the radiator, and I need to replace one inspection panel which fell off when sanding, then I can add the tail and rollover frame. Thanks for looking n! Ian Edited July 12, 2017 by limeypilot 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) A long time at the bench today for not much obvious progress... the first step was making and adding the small fairings for the aileron cable pulleys. Then I spent rather a long time measuring and marking out the undercarriage mounting points. The reason being, that although it measured out ok, they didn't look right. It turned out that the fuselage is a little too fat, so my measurements from the centre line left the mounts too far down on the side. A little adjustment to get it to look right and they were then drilled. After that, the tail surfaces...and then I found that I hadn't got the measurements right there either. When I attached the fin, the rudder didn't meet the bottom edge of the fuselage, so I had to break out the sanding stick and correct the depth at the rear end! Hopefully the primer hasn't peeled to the extent that it will be noticeable - I went around the edges of where I'd sanded with a fine sanding stick to try to blend them back in. All that sanding did have a positive side as it does mean that I now have bare plastic mating surfaces for the fin and horizontal stabilisers - I had to remove the wing struts to clean the paint off as they kept coming adrift! I definitely won't use that primer again.... Thanks for looking in! Ian Edited July 12, 2017 by limeypilot 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Nice progress, the rib tapes are looking good. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Thanks Martin! and today's progress.......landing gear built and attached! Just the rollover hoop to add and then I can get started on painting! Thanks for looking in! Ian Edited July 12, 2017 by limeypilot 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ascoteer Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 That's starting to look the Bizz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Nice undercarriage, are you planning to add the bungees where the axle meets the legs? Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergey Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Very neat work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I'm way late as usual, but have just enjoyed catching up on all the cracking work you've done to the old thing so far Ian - most impressive!! I have this in the 'must build one day' pile (purchased for the grand sum of £1.25 in a Modelzone (R.I.P.) sale!) so this is another inspiring build. Could I ask, is it Windsock Datafile plans you're using? Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Thanks all! Martin, looking at pics, it would appear that the bungees were wrapped in something, so I may just use a little Mr Dissolved putty to create the visual impression... Keith, yes, I'm using Datafile plans. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomoshenko Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Just caught up again. Cracking job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) Duplicate, sorry Edited March 11, 2016 by AdrianMF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Nice work going on here. When I built mine, I compared it to the plans in the old Harborough book on WW1 fighters and it matched them exactly, so I think I know what Airfix used as a starting point. So I just added some details. Airfix must have used other sources for their WW1 range because others (like the RE8) are way off reality and the Harborough plans. Your work is making the kit look a whole lot better and more refined, and I'm sure the modern plans are much more accurate too! Looking forward to some paint... Regards, Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Thanks Adrian, I think Airfix used the Thetford & Riding book "Aircraft of the 1914-1918 War", published in 1954. The RE8 matches those plans exactly. I didn't compare the Hannover before I built it but it looks the same. That doesn't solve this one though as there are no plans for it - the Roland merely has a photo in the back in the "Rare types" appendix - a little strange for an aircraft that was built and served in large numbers! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) Almost there now.... I finished off the main gear today by adding some Mr Dissolved Putty to simulate the covered bungees, and a couple of pieces of 10 thou brass rod for the limit stops. The tail struts were added, then the final piece, the roll-over bars. These are 15 thou plastic rod. I bent them slightly before gluing the first one in place, then when that was secure I added the second one. When both were dry, I cut the second one and took a tiny slice out of the middle, then butted it up to the first one and glued it. When dry, more Mr Dissolved Putty was used for the top plate. That still needs a little fettling so I'll do that tomorrow, then she should be ready for another quick coat of primer just to make sure that everything is ok before she turns blue! Thanks for looking in! Ian Edited July 12, 2017 by limeypilot 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 nice work.... intricate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Ian, I'm travelling right now so I can't look up the exact book title, but I have a pair of books, one for fighters, one for bombers, and the Roland is definitely in one of them: So I think I must have a later edition/variant. Lovely work on that undercarriage, and your rollover cage looks super. Looking forward to the paint! Regards, Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) OK, I need little feedback please.... I put the first coat of Polyscale Acrylic Light Blue on it yesterday over the Tamiya acrylic white and.... The wings appear ok, it's just on the fuselage. I've never seen that happen before. I've reduced the pressure on my compressor a little as i think I may have had it too high, but it still doesn't explain why it should crack like that - it looked fine as I applied it! Is it just the Polyscale paint? I don't think there are any edges to be sanded down, although I'll probably give it a light sand just to be sure, then I'll respray with Tamiya mixed per WNW proportions. Ian Edited July 12, 2017 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 I may be talking rubbish, but going back to my car modelling days I recall that it was advised that when clear coating tamiya paint, it should be done immediately after applying the base coat paint, or after a few weeks when said paint had fully gassed out. I only found that out after I sprayed the roof of a Mini model with Tamiya white & then clear coated it just a couple of days later - & it cracked very much like that. I realise you're not clear coating, but it could be something in the Polyscale paint formulation that causes it to react the same, and maybe the underlying Tamiya needed to dry for longer? Whatever, good luck with the rescue job! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 ouch! I feel your pain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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