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CedB

Valom 1/72 Bell YFM-1 Airacuda

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Thanks Johnny, really informative :)

I don't know what sort of plastic it is other than 'clear Valom' but I appreciate there's probably a very small difference between 'flexible' and 'melted' - I need to be careful.

I've just had a fiddle with the parts again to try to decide which order to assemble them in. The nose parts seem to fit pretty well so I may glue those on and use them as a reference point for the other parts, like the floor and bulkhead, both of which can, of course, be adjusted with sanding and fitted from the back...

Reference images also show varying windows on the nacelle nose so I think I'll assemble them 'pretty way up'.

I'm out from mid-morning so I will ponder.

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That's another part that fits really well the....😳

Will heating the the plastic not make it go cloudy. Looks like you will need to make replica out of would and plastic strips for framing that will fit and crash mold it..... 😃

Rob

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Will heating the the plastic not make it go cloudy.

I don't think so. I guess a hair dryer of hot air gun would be the best way to go, good luck with it.

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Two possible options. Create a vacform copy inside the original or add a plasticard shim between the two sides of the engine half's. Probably a better option. Simply fattening the engine nacelles to match the glazing.

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I think a pot of hot water would be your best bet. No clue on what temperature , use some of the clear sprue to test.

Good luck

Garry c

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Shame there isn't a panel line running right down the middle that you could use to cut them in half and sand back the mating edges.

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That's another part that fits really well the....

Will heating the the plastic not make it go cloudy. Looks like you will need to make replica out of would and plastic strips for framing that will fit and crash mold it.....

Rob

I don't think so. I guess a hair dryer of hot air gun would be the best way to go, good luck with it.

Two possible options. Create a vacform copy inside the original or add a plasticard shim between the two sides of the engine half's. Probably a better option. Simply fattening the engine nacelles to match the glazing.

I think a pot of hot water would be your best bet. No clue on what temperature , use some of the clear sprue to test.

Good luck

Garry c

Shame there isn't a panel line running right down the middle that you could use to cut them in half and sand back the mating edges.

Thanks Chaps! :)

Great suggestions and, all in all I think I'll try warming with a hairdryer (thanks Nigel - having tested some sprue first - thanks Garry).

Before I get to that I need to get the nose parts in place and the other bits assembled:

25498935275_ff369a6cdd_z.jpg

Puzzle by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

First step was to glue the bottom of the nacelles:

25203468810_83f0fcaacd_z.jpg

Starting somewhere by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

While those were drying I decided to complete the fuselage because then I can start applying the NMF, one bit I'm looking forward to. Lego out and tailplanes on:

25473246336_845a001c87.jpg 24873845583_dc10884f37.jpg

Lego'd up by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

I used Darby's method of using BluTak to support the top of the parts and the Lego and BluTak on the bottom. Tamiya Extra Thin and a gentle push and they were on, but with an annoying gap. Obviously the joins weren't flat enough but I didn't want to sand them any more so I filled the gaps with CA gel - that should hold it. The empennage now looks pretty square:

25205118750_43bcd7c81d.jpg

On to the nacelles. All the joins were sanded (including the tricky curvy bit at the back) and filled with liquid green stuff. I then test fitted the nose parts and one seems to fit pretty well (so that got glued immediately). The other needs the nacelle spreading at the top:

25475580346_f25b6bc520.jpg 25501749785_23ef487b88.jpg

Fits by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Needs to spread by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

I searched the 'net for a new tool to hold the parts, er, apart but to no avail. Anyone know of some mini spreader-clamp thingies? In the end I cut down a bamboo cocktail stick and, just my luck, split the bottom join (oooh, nasty).
25475688836_9725706274.jpg 25502036015_3ef83c3101.jpg
Dammit by Ced Bufton, on Flickr
Both are now glued and drying so I think I'll leave it for a good while and do some NMF later - woo hoo!

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I don`t know about the Valom kits until now.

I think I would refer to them in the future as "Valium kits"

Oh the trauma`s, splitting your bottom Fnar.

Still life goes on Ced.

Fine job mate. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Simon.

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You know. I have the feeling you enjoy this kind of modelling Ced. It's not shake and bake, it's modelling. Or fettling which ever you prefer haha.

I do like to fettle myself but I don't know if I could have kept at it the way you have. Would it have been easier to scratch build this? Haha

Ashley

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Unfortunately no rockets up bottoms, although the Razorback nearly got a boot up the backside.

You're doing wonderfully well C, and I see this WIP has the usual smut, some innuendo,

some outuenedo ,and a Mexican wrestler?, or the guy out of Slipknot?....wtf?

25475580346_f25b6bc520.jpg

Sean

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I don`t know about the Valom kits until now.

I think I would refer to them in the future as "Valium kits"

Oh the trauma`s, splitting your bottom Fnar.

Still life goes on Ced.

Fine job mate. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Simon.

Hi Simon :)

Valom kits are great IMHO because they produce subjects that you can't get elsewhere. For example, try getting hold of some unusual Bristols (behave!), my favourites. But because they're not popular subjects they're short run and that means, presumably, it's not worth investing in really precise molds...

I'm sure there's a better explanation but that's what I tell myself :)

(I've just found my previous justification here during my Bombay build which prompted kwaterous to come up with 'machoistic')

WOW! Ced you're braver (or more foolhardy) than I am.

You have way more patience too...

Hi Debs :) I'm glad you think I'm patient... the ruse is working! I think it's more of a blind stubbornness really and you should hear some of the Anglo-Saxon that gets muttered.

Braver than you? I refer you, M'lady, to your current Albert builds... there's no way I would attempt that level of scratch building!

You know. I have the feeling you enjoy this kind of modelling Ced. It's not shake and bake, it's modelling. Or fettling which ever you prefer haha.

I do like to fettle myself but I don't know if I could have kept at it the way you have. Would it have been easier to scratch build this? Haha

Ashley

Thanks Ashley, very kind :) I guess I must enjoy it or I wouldn't keep building them! Perhaps I should seek professional help...

Unfortunately no rockets up bottoms, although the Razorback nearly got a boot up the backside.

You're doing wonderfully well C, and I see this WIP has the usual smut, some innuendo,

some outuenedo ,and a Mexican wrestler?, or the guy out of Slipknot?....wtf?

25475580346_f25b6bc520.jpg

Sean

Thanks Sean :) Gimp mask! I hadn't noticed that before, probably because I'm so innocent (it's all about sincerity; if you can fake that you've made it).

It's time to think about maybe biting the bullet.

I've never done this before so I need to be gentle.

What if I go too far and it goes droopy rather than just bendable?

I need some protection.

I was, of course, talking about getting the heat on those canopies. (Where did you go in your head??)

If I heat it too much and it droops I need something to keep it in (rough) shape so I fashioned some supports and glued them in with latex glue:

25152560759_81456e67f5.jpg

24889652424_88eecfa21b.jpg

Drying by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

Gulp. I need to do some DIY today so I'll put it off until later.

Wish me luck!

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Best of luck with the canopy whispering Ced. A little, easy, often; therein lies the path to success.

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Hi Ced

It's not all bad news at least the Lego that comes with the kit fits........... I'll get my own coat thanks !

Great progress, I haven't built a Valom kit before, but after seeing this I think the box should carry a health warning like the ones on cigarettes.

Cheers Pat

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Happy Birthday Spitfire (sort of) :D

Well they're done:

25429643471_44ac78e498.jpg 24891981254_95c6d86a3d.jpg

Fits by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

Mrs B's hairdryer came in on this one. Lessons learnt (learned?):

  1. Hairdryers blow really hard (so hold on to the part or it will fly off)
  2. Hairdryers get really hot. I know that's the idea but I mean 'too hot to handle' so use some tweezers, preferably the ones that hold on without you having to squeeze them.
  3. Tweezers get really hot so don't touch the metal bits
  4. After waving the hairdryer over the inside of the canopy (on the theory it will 'collect' rather than deflect the hot air) try gently squeezing the canopy together
  5. You'll only learn what 'gently' means from experience
  6. After a crack noise (rats) continue with the process to get the right shape; you can fix the crack later (hopefully)
  7. Make sure the part fits several times, re-heating where necessary
  8. If in doubt clamp the canopy in place while it cools. Do not try to cool with the hairdryer on 'cold' (see 1 above)

Most of those come with an 'ask me how I know'... We'll see later if this has been enough.

I must remember to fit the floor, bulkhead and cannon before I get carried away with the glue.

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Happy Birthday Spitfire (sort of) :D

Well they're done:

25429643471_44ac78e498.jpg 24891981254_95c6d86a3d.jpg

Fits by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

Mrs B's hairdryer came in on this one. Lessons learnt (learned?):

  1. Hairdryers blow really hard (so hold on to the part or it will fly off)
  2. Hairdryers get really hot. I know that's the idea but I mean 'too hot to handle' so use some tweezers, preferably the ones that hold on without you having to squeeze them.
  3. Tweezers get really hot so don't touch the metal bits
  4. After waving the hairdryer over the inside of the canopy (on the theory it will 'collect' rather than deflect the hot air) try gently squeezing the canopy together
  5. You'll only learn what 'gently' means from experience
  6. After a crack noise (rats) continue with the process to get the right shape; you can fix the crack later (hopefully)
  7. Make sure the part fits several times, re-heating where necessary
  8. If in doubt clamp the canopy in place while it cools. Do not try to cool with the hairdryer on 'cold' (see 1 above)

Most of those come with an 'ask me how I know'... We'll see later if this has been enough.

I must remember to fit the floor, bulkhead and cannon before I get carried away with the glue.

That worked? I would have bet against if I could have found anybody to bet for. Congratulations and thanks very much for showing the way.

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That worked? I would have bet against if I could have found anybody to bet for. Congratulations and thanks very much for showing the way.

Likewise. Ced is as cunning and resourceful as he is handsome!

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Ced, you are some sort of anti-tornado, you irresistibly sweep through a pile of detritus and leave a completed model in your wake.

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Alternative approach to the canopy: I'd probably have filled the kit part with epoxy putty, filed sanded and polished it into submission and then crash formed a new one over it that would have the additional advantages of

- better clarity

- more flexibility to get it to conform.

Edited by Hotel Papa

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That worked? I would have bet against if I could have found anybody to bet for. Congratulations and thanks very much for showing the way.
Likewise. Ced is as cunning and resourceful as he is handsome!

Thanks TT and PC :)

It didn't work entirely (see below) but well enough for me at this stage (there's a Spitfire GB on!)

PC you're very kind... assuming you meant 'quite cunning' :blush:

Ced, you are some sort of anti-tornado, you irresistibly sweep through a pile of detritus and leave a completed model in your wake.

Thanks Cookie, very kind. I can't wait to get the NMF done and try to get somewhere near your great finish on your Thunderbolt. :)

Alternative approach to the canopy: I'd probably have filled the kit part with epoxy putty, filed sanded and polished it into submission and then crash formed a new one over it that would have the additional advantages of

- better clarity

- more flexibility to get it to conform.

Thanks HP. My scratch build skills are nowhere near that (at the moment) and the kit parts aren't really good enough for a mold, but I'll bear it in mind for future builds :)

So today I've sanded, fitted and filled the floor and bulkheads.

25500027356_9779b462dc.jpg

Floors in by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

This sneaky shot hides the difference between Vallejo and Humbrol IGs but I guess it should be US interior anyway so I give up. My mood has been somewhat influenced (understatement) by my DIY attempts to fix a leaking cistern valve. The new one not only still leaks but it doesn't turn off the water when the float reaches the desired height, or when the float arm is lifted. Angry is not the word for it and yes, I have contacted a plumber and will be returning the faulty part to the supplier.

Anyway, the canopies are on:

25532356755_24185b5703.jpg 25439613071_b72a1bd374.jpg

... joins covered in Gator's Grip and clamped. Hopefully that will hold the one misfit shown above, otherwise it'll be out with the 5 minute epoxy! The cannons aren't glued yet as I want to line them up when everything's fitted.

Tonight I intend to try to relax. There will be G&Ts!

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Ced, I could send you down some of the wife`s porridge she made this morning to stick the errant piece .

It took nearly half an hour to clean the pan LOL.

Looking good though. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Simon.

Edited by Spookytooth

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Happy birthday spitfire, and my four year old.... Same day! What are the chances, my little girl got me a spitfire keyring to mark the occasion, I thought it was very funny! The little boy did not....until I gave it to him....

Nice work ced, your are the uri geller (don't know how to spell that) of the modelling world! Not something I would have even tried to attempt.

Rob

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Studying post 195, it looks to me that the problem might not be with the canopies but with the nacelle sides. They look a bit anaemic to me. I think I would try and build the sides up with filler to meet the lower edges of the canopies.

Martin

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Nice going C, I think Martin could be right, the canopy looks to be overhanging the nacelle a bit. (Pic.2)

Or does it just need pushed in a bit?

Enjoy those G&Ts, you deserve them,

Sean

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I think Matin's right, it's the nacelle is too narrow rather than the canopy. I suspect his suggestion is the way to go.

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