Tomjw Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I don't normally stray into the wheelie things area (normally I'm strictly wingy things), but I find your work captivating. I'm very impressed with your progress with this incredible kit. Cheers, Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelman182 Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Holy Frijole! That is a LOVELY kit - but as it cost more than my latest 1:1 car, I think I'll just watch from the sidelines! Fantastically over-engineered model, but must be SO satisfying to build. I shall keep watching and enjoy the vicarious pleasure of your fine work. Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 thanks guys - it is a beauty. Primer seems ok - but I am handling it very very carefully, so if anyone knows otherwise, I'm all ears! I am learning patience with this one - trying to fully assemble sub-assemblies before adding any paint, and deciding which casting details to switch out for 'real' nuts and bolts etc.... Hope to get more done this weekend... The white metal is very soft - elements like suspension components and very easy to bend. The brass wire wheel seems to work well, together with filing and sanding. Centering holes being drilled will have to be very accurate...most holes have a tiny indent to start them - most need drilling out or made deeper (due to casting process) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbly Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Great progress on this one Caterham! I have decided to begin a MFH kit, 1/24 Porsche 962C (Rothmans) and its completely white metal lol! Any tips or helpful hints when working with white metal would be appreciated bud Not experienced MFH white metal, but in the past when I used to make 4mm white metal locomotives a couple of things to be aware of. 1. White metal will distort as part of the casting process as well as shrink a little when compared to the master that formed the mould. A better casting process makes for better parts, but even on top quality moulding these "flaws" are not avoidable. In the past when joining boiler halves together and if using a 2 part epoxy, after a while it would sag, so any filling would also sink and make for an annoying seam, usually several months afterwards, and normally once finished. So either superglue, or the preferable way was low melt solder - which is buttock clenching to do with something that melts as easy as white metal. Smaller parts - always superglue. 2. Use gentle heat if you need to straighten parts. Bending cold normally bends, bends, bends, brakes, so I used to use a hair dryer or put in the oven, season with salt and pepper, and set it to its lowest setting just long enough to get the part warm throughout, too hot or long and you have a silvery puddle! If too bent and gentle heat cannot not help, then major surgery is needed. So having many clean good sharp files is vital. Get a file card brush to clean them and use good quality flat sweetheart cut, second cut and smooth cut files depending on the amount of metal that requires removing. These will be too strong for plastic, but will make light work of white metal 3. Priming - good automotive primer works well. Key with a suede brush or any thin brass wired brush, it can take a surprising amount of abuse, and always looks fantastic. You can polish with wet and dry as well prior to the primer. Probably this is all out of date knowledge now as things have progressed, but white metal is a great material to work with. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Great advice- as a newbie to this stuff, I am sure all that is still very much in date, so thank you. I do like the way it cleans up... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) Spent a lot of time getting not a lot done this weekend! Polished a lot of parts for future use, which was good - those brass wire 'bits' get everywhere, so wanted to do a lot in one go before having to clean up! These are some engine plumbing, and some tiny plug lead headers... Fuel rails and pipes - real pain to clean up and a few have broken off, resulting in having to use a VERY small pin (brass wire) to repair..(that is a cocktail stick for scale) I then wasted a lot of time painting these rails and pipes. They are black with silver fittings. I had primed, then sprayed black, then intended to alclad the shiny bits - I tried that blue masking fluid stuff for the black pipes. Big mistake - no good for using on such small pipe work, as it just pulled the underlying paint off as I struggled to remove some as a test - so had to remove all the paintwork (brass wire wheel) in order to start again..... Primed the gearbox just to see, even though I still have work to do on the main casting... Edited March 14, 2016 by caterhamnut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Looks great caterhamnut. Size wise how long is the engine and gear box together and shame about the fuel rails but a very ingenious fix aswell. Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) Nice progress. I'm sure you will get the paint sorted out. Tamiya metal etch primer is very good for white metal. Regards Keith Edited March 14, 2016 by Mpfiend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) Looks great caterhamnut. Size wise how long is the engine and gear box together and shame about the fuel rails but a very ingenious fix aswell. Shaun I'll take a 'scale' shot next to something Nice progress. I'm sure you will get the paint sorted out. Tamiya metal etch primer is very good for white metal. Regards Keith This is what I am using Keith (but grey) - is this what you meant? Edited March 14, 2016 by caterhamnut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 I'll take a 'scale' shot next to something This is what I am using Keith (but grey) - is this what you meant? No I meant Tamiya Metal primer, it is clear and is used for metal parts. It can be found here http://www.1001modelkits.co.uk/plastic-airplane-models/52039-tamiya-87061-primer-for-metal-4950344870615.html?gclid=CM-egOz5wMsCFdEy0wodGssJmw Regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 umm - better get some of that. Seems really hard to get it here in the States? All sellers seem to be European based.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imster Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 umm - better get some of that. Seems really hard to get it here in the States? All sellers seem to be European based.... I am really liking the different shades of blacks and grey you have used on the engine to bring out the differences in all the parts, great work mate! If you cant find the Tamiya stuff then look for Mr. Hobby Mr. Metal Primer, its also clear and is very similar if not the same as the Tamiya Metal Primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 This has been a great build to follow. The MFH kits are spectacular and you are doing a great job with it. The primer conversation has been helpful too. I am curious how you use the metal primer. Do you shoot the metal parts with the clear metal primer, then the white/gray primer and finally the color paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 That was my next question! Managed to get some Tamiya stuff States-side - varies in price from $8-$17!! Not going to paint any more parts until I have that stuff - just in case!! Did take some more pics though... (coming) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imster Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 You can spray directly over the clear metal primer without any issues 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) Right - some 'scale' shots... - just look at these old school slicks - just imagine the forces going through driveshafts and gearboxes when the clutch is dumped on supedr-sticky qualifying tyres..... The engine is smaller than the tyre! Couldn't resist a little body-action... This last shot shows what will be visible once the bodywork is fitted (if I do!) - these are the bolts on the very end of the gearbox, that I think I will drill out and replace with detail fittings. On another build I may replace others on the engine, but having rushed into painting, I left it too late to do this... Edited March 15, 2016 by caterhamnut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) Some more pictures - apologies for the quality - it is always dark by the time I get to work on this, and I am still sourcing/making a light box! I am also making an FW16, and have put the engine block together (solid resin rather than the working MP4/4 engine!) It is interesting seeing them together - note the difference in proportions (V6 / V10) but also, see how the gearbox has become much more compact - and the FW16 is 20 years old now) Much shorter stroke! Edited March 15, 2016 by caterhamnut 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 Wow 5 inches long just for the engine and gear box that's huge, but nothing compared to that rear wheel lol Nice to see all the body work is the same material and not a mix up like most multimedia f1 cars in 1/20. Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Yep - 80% resin, but a few metal 'panels' to blend in, like around the front suspension pick-up points... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 With regard to the length of the gearbox, I seem to recall reading an interview with Gordon Murray in which he spoke about the wheelbase of the MP4/4 being designed to be comparatively long (longer than the /3?) to improve high speed handling. I was going to ask earlier if anyone knew what filled the enormous bell housing since all I could think of was the need for a step up of the input shaft (since the gearbox is so much higher than the clutch) though that would only take a fraction of the space. I *think* (and don't quote me on this) that one of the reasons that the Williams gearbox is so small is that it's shafts are transverse rather than longitudinal. Can't remember what the fuel regs were doing that year but presumably the amount of fuel required sets the size of the tank which wants to be as close to the CoG as possible. The length of the engine was probably fixed by the supplier to a greater extent that today's integral packaging so the gearbox would seem to take the strain of fitting whatever space was required to achieve the desired wheelbase. Again, taxing the few remaining, fast-aging grey cells, I'm reasonably sure that teams could change gear ratios at will during the MP4/4 era, which I suppose makes it very preferable to have the gearbox right out at the back rather than buried in the rear suspension. Loving the build (especially the bonkers engine internals - though I think the piston rings can't be a good fit!!). Very jealous. Keep up the excellent work. Kirk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 Makes a lot of sense Kirk, and you are correct that they used to be able to change gear ratios as much as they like... Right, I have invested in a light box from my local camera shop - B&H in NYC! I've been wanting to get those lovely clean pictures that you see on lots of the threads here - you may have noticed how my threads are picture-heavy! Still playing, but if you will forgive the indulgence and repetition, here are some more fancy pictures (and I might go back and swap a few above as well...) They show every imperfection, that's for sure - and I'll have to get dusting!! And a few others from a McLaren MP4/2 I shoudl probably start a WIP for... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 Fabulous photos. They really show off every detail very well Regards Keith. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imster Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Really nice work Caterham! Your pics are pretty good too, lightboxes are awesome things! As for the lightbox showing every imperfection, this is actually a good thing if you are anally retentive about things like me, I use it often to inspect my work and fix/clean it up if required. If it looks perfect through a micrscope or at high levels of magnification then you can bet that it will look absolutely amazing to the naked eye Keep up the great work dude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 At last the proper primer has arrived, so I can crack on with this... However, I also have a plan to work on a few other kits at the same time - mainly because I'm liking the engine stuff, and I think it would be cool to show a number of F1 engines side by side as I build them - so this V6, the Williams Renault V10 and the V12 from the McLaren MP4/6 Also keeps the variety in building.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 (edited) My pre-order for the 917K was placed with Macs Modelling and I told him to wait until March before getting it over to me so I'm not sure on the exact release date. You have actually received those MFH tie wraps? What are they like? I will get them from Macs in March too. Yeah I went for the Gulf, I was very very tempted by the Red one as thats the one that won LeMans that year but I really love the gulf colours and I havent done any builds with that livery yet so may as well do it on this one. ....shhh, its arrived. I'll start another WIP....sorted all the parts last night - hundreds!! Not used them yet, but look great. Will use many on the Caterham build!! Edited March 22, 2016 by caterhamnut 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now