Jump to content

Perfect Plastic Putty - am I missing something?


pigsty

Recommended Posts

A lot of people say they like Deluxe's Perfect Plastic Putty, so I thought I'd try it. I took off the cap, added the long tapering applicator, and squeezed some out and used it. Then I put a plastic cap over the end of the applicator to stop it drying out.

It didn't work.

Now I have an applicator full of half-set putty that will not let anything past. The only way to get at the rest is to take off the applicator and squeeze it straight from the tube, which of course produces a pool of putty, not the intended fine line. It strikes me this completely defeats the point of having an applicator, or indeed anything finer than the end of the tube, if the damned stuff will only ever block it. I suppose I could clear the applicator of putty and then replace it with the cap, but at that rate the tube will be exhausted after about six applications.

Am I doing something wrong, or have I just wasted another five quid?

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of people say they like Deluxe's Perfect Plastic Putty, so I thought I'd try it. I took off the cap, added the long tapering applicator, and squeezed some out and used it. Then I put a plastic cap over the end of the applicator to stop it drying out.

It didn't work.

Now I have an applicator full of half-set putty that will not let anything past. The only way to get at the rest is to take off the applicator and squeeze it straight from the tube, which of course produces a pool of putty, not the intended fine line. It strikes me this completely defeats the point of having an applicator, or indeed anything finer than the end of the tube, if the damned stuff will only ever block it. I suppose I could clear the applicator of putty and then replace it with the cap, but at that rate the tube will be exhausted after about six applications.

Am I doing something wrong, or have I just wasted another five quid?

Hello,Pigsty - No,you're doing nothing wrong.I've never used the applicator.Instead,I just squeeze a little filler to the mouth of the tube and use a cocktail stick to apply it to the model.This method doesn't waste a lot of filler at all.I then gently wipe over the filler with a damp brush to provide a smooth blend into the joint and clean the surrounding area.A little trick I've learned is to then seal the filler with a thinned coat of matt enamel paint,applied by brush.I use Green /White Putty and use the same method.I then prime the model with Halfords Acrylic Primer.and the enamel provides a barrier between the filler and primer and stops the risk of the filler dissolving.Hope this may be helpful to you.All the best,Paul.
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had exactly the same experience with the first tube I bought. I threw it in the bin and just put it down to experience (as I'd already thrown the cap away when I attached the spout). When I got the second tube I immediately threw the spout in the bin and now I just scoop a bit from the tube with a cocktail stick or spatula whenever I need it.

Edited by Eludia
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto to all the above. The applicator is pretty much the most useful for hard to reach spaces, such as the seam on a wing or the inside of a nacelle toward the wing that you just can't get to otherwise. But, you have to clean out the applicator with water, thus wasting more of the putty than you are using.

I have gotten where I only use this putty for small, non load-bearing seams that don't require any re-scribing, such as canopy to fuse, where you don't want to sand at all or little.

For anything that has to be strong or shaped or scribed over, I use CA adhesive, worked while as "green" as possible after drying.

For everything in-between, I use Bondo Glazing and Spot putty, which doesn't pinhole, and generally behaves better than green putty, and has a nice, smooth texture. Sticks like crazy, too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like to keep my masking tape and putty inside a zip loc bag, to prevent dust from settling on the masking tape and hopefully to try preventing my putty to dry up. I am not familiar with the

Perfect Plastic Putty product though. Edited by Housesparrow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I tried using the applicator the first time I tried using the perfect plastic putty. Since the instructions mentioned washing applicator out after use, I though that was quite a waste!

So I now use a cocktail stick, or if I'm doing a bit of filling, squeeze a small amount onto a jam jar lid, then apply it from there using a metal spatula / cocktail stick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the tip of a scalpel, just as with green and white stuff to apply it. If you get any drying out at the top of the tube and the material becomes too dry to work in, just add a couple of drops of water and give it a few minutes to rehydrate.

This is handy, because you can also thin the material with water if you need to make it more creamy and less "pastey".

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Threw away the applicator after getting it out of the bag. As with all my putty I apply it with an old x-acto knife; long, thin and strong, it gets the putty where it needs to go and nowhere else.

The PPP itself is a good product I feel; I only use it for seams that are too obvious but that should still be visible, like a panel line. Wing root - fuselage and stabilizer fuselage seams are good places to apply it. Applying the stuff, then wiping it off with a damp tissue leaves a subtle panel line, but only if the part match up fairly well to being with. If the seam is too large or does not coincide with a panel line, like a gap in the fuselage, Tamiya putty is still my filler of choice. Larger areas, CA glue. CA is great filler but I avoid it generally because it dries so hard; when sanding it's hard not to obliterate a lot of detail around it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PPP applied with cocktail stick or old blunt scalpel blades works for me.I would have no hard and fast rules as to where and when it gets used, just as and when I think it's going to do the job.It's a useful addition to all the others.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want small amounts of of this type of filler, I would suggest getting the Vallejo putty. The tube version comes with a long thin applicator that has a cover.

http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/vallejo-putty-20ml-tube-13826-p.asp

Paul

Paul, noticed the Vallejo says water soluble while wet, does that mean when its dry it's not as the Deluxe stuff just dissolves when water hits it when dried

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's wrong with Tippex ?

It crumbles too easily, it shrinks if you apply enough in one go, and if you try two applications the layers delaminate. Still useful for small dings, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I learned two things recently from the internet somewhere.

The pointy tip applicator has to be cleaned after use each time, and it is recommended to place the whole thing down into a glass of water to prevent the tip from drying when working.

I have this product ordered, so I haven't gotten any personal experience with it myself as of yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...