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1/16 British


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Sorry about the clarity, nothing too clear in these times!

What I was after is Henglong, Trumpeter or some company to make a bold move and produce these. I'm a tad tired of the Nazi onslaught, but they sell well.

Whinge over with.

Submarines would also be nice

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Not quite 1/16 (or British) but you can get a 1/32 U-Boat (a snip at €1800, or 8 grand if you can't be bothered building and painting it yourself):

http://www.andreaeurope.com/en/1/andrea-miniatures/116/limited-productions/693/lp-02-u-boat-vii-c-complete-hull.html

I wonder how many of these have been sold?

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I'm surprised that none of you have considered 1/25 Polish and Russian card kits of Tanks and AFV's.

The kits come mainly in 1/25 scale (although there are some smaller kit sizes) and all parts are in book form, flat, so you have to cut out, bend and assemble parts in whatever material you decide to build in and at whatever scale, or by photocopy or photographic reduction or enlargement.

To begin with, make 5 complete sets of plans (if by photographic enlargement) for each model hull you are about to build. Name one set "your master set" and put this aside, just in case you use up your 4 building sheets, so that you can photocopy more sets from it. Never use your master set to build with, because a photocopy enlargement is never the same the second time around, from scratch.

I collect Tank and AFV card kits now, but only in digital format, as card kits in book form, take up too much space.

For Tanks and AFV's not made into kits, I have a large library of paper plans, filed away in lever arch files.

At one stage I was going to use the existing R/C lower hulls of the R/C 1/15 Tamiya and Heng Long model tanks I've got and just build and replace the upper hull armour, to something completely different which has the same, or similar wheels configuration and track layouts - as many different tanks do - it is easy enough to build robustly in card - just make the outer skin in thin white card, then PVA glue 1/8" thicker card inside, an internal framework is not necessary if the hull is built strongly enough and varnished inside and out prior to painting - when the varnish is dry the card becomes as rigid as plastic, but get the assembly right as you go, because you cannot sand card, it becomes fluffy - cut and mount external fittings out of solid pieces of card, of various thicknesses, glued in place on the outside skin in the appropriate places and apply rivets with a hypo syringe filled with PVA glue, when clear, the glue has dried - then when you paint the outside hull, all of the detail stands out and it is easy enough to cut out slots or slits in the hull where the crew could look out, whilst the part is flat - I used to use water based household paints and I could get the colour dead right from the kit, by taking the printed kit down to the local paint store, where they had a computerised paint matching service and I'd buy sample pots of water based paint, of my colours, for next to nothing and the paint would last for several models of other warships, if need be.

The gun is easy enough to construct with any sort of round hollow plastic, or metal length and if tapered, build up the external taper with PVA wetted paper, finally glueing the thin card kit template around it, for fine detailing, prior to varnishing and painting.

After lifting off the upper hull of an intended hull change, tank, I was going to keep the plastic upper hull, so I could change the lower hull, back to that model tank, if I ever wanted to. Simply put, I don't have enough time left to do all of the things I had intended to, so I've simplified my life as much as possible and cut back on what I can comfortably achieve in the time left to me - and Tanks and AFV's are not it - 69 and retired, now.

Water based paints are easy enough to keep brushes or the paint splash clean up, afterwards, simple and the final painted finish was as hard and enduring as oil based paints - which were a lot harder to clean up afterwards, with.

My cardboard constructed warship hulls, usually 3 to 6 feet long and for R/C if ever I wanted to, using this method of construction, were strong enough for me to stand on, without collapsing and I weighed 18.5 stone then (prior to diabetes Type 2).

It is easy enough to build a rotating turret. Start off with a nylon cotton bud shaft, which when you cut it, you will find is hollow. Measure the thickness of the shaft on which the turret spins and cut thin card to this width in long strips with a hobby knife and a ruler - the thicker the card, the harder it is to shape and finish - you can buy a metal MAUN safety ruler from hobby and craft shops - then glue one side of your thin card with PVA glue, just wet enough to the same consistency as you would have on the back of a postage stamp, then stick the begining of the card length to the cotton bud shaft and tightly wrap the length of thin card, around and around, laying the growing wheel on either side from time to time for conformity and to make sure everything is assembling cleanly and flat, until you eventually get your final shaft thickness, then set aside to dry.

Once dry, put in a wire length, in the hollow cotton bud shaft and spin - if you did it right, there should be no wobble and your wheel should spin easily. With gearing, or even connected directly to a servo, within the tank hull, you should be able to turn your turret by R/C - this building method (my technique) is great for turrets on warships and of course wheels on cars, if you decide you want to build in card and paper or some other medium, with which you are familiar.

The advantage of card is that it has no grain so will bend in any direction, (thicker card, once wetted) or around a form, held in place with pins, until the glue dries.

Richard

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the nearest i can think of is the tamiya 1/25 centurion. n chieften i had back in the 80s. they were controled by levers so like the real thing but you had to follow close behind as the were i guess you could call it "Wire guided" lol .

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I'm the bloke above with the suggestions of card models upper hull armour made from card kits, however, I have all of the R/C Heng Long 1/15 or 1/16 tanks with the exception of the Chinese one and also an R/C Tamiya King Tiger and a Tamiya M4 Sherman.

Richard

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I may have missed this but there is a bloke who has given me hope, 1/16 scale British armour. OK it's not a mainstream kit but a sort at least. ludwigs-hobby-seite.de. On offer are Churchill, Centurion, Comet, and more.

 

 

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On 29/03/2016 at 8:06 PM, viper-30 said:

How about a 1/16 scorpion

There’s a 3D printed RC scorpion/scimitar kit around. I bought the turret for a M113 MRV conversion.  Will try to find the link. 

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  • 2 months later...

British 1/16 ?

Sometimes you have a go yourself. The Dark Art of 1/16 Conversions.

My 1/16 Rc Sherman Vc Firefly Tank ( a work in progress)

 

6oGqEGl.jpg

 

My 1/16 Rc Sherman Ic Firefly Tank ( a work in progress)

 

uZKsdD8.jpg

 

 

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The Sherman is probably my favourite tank, and I've often thought about building one from scratch in 1/16th scale, but I don't know where to lay my hands on the things that I can't scratch, such as tracks and suspension units. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

John.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

 

I have to admit that a 1/16 Sherman would be tempting ... because it would be a Sherman of course, a nice project per se, and furthermore reasonable dimensionwise 😊

 

But if I had to choose a totally british 1/16 AFV, I'll go for a Challenger 2 without hesitation ... it would be a hell of a beast, nearly 50cm for the hull's length and more than 60cm overall 😲

 

E

Edited by Etienne
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