recommend a good re-scribering tool?

[erewhon1872]

Hi all,

can anyone either recommend a good scriber or tell me what I am doing wrong?

I have a Trumpeter scriber which was recommended in a magazine review, but the results I get with it are terrible,

For instance I made up the drop tanks on the Kinetic F-84F model and being the size they are they had a long seam line between the halves.

After sanding and filling the 'panel lines' (for want of a better phrase) around the tanks has gone but only at either side of the tanks, so I used Dymo-tape (spl?) and the scriber I have,

I now have nice panel lines around the tanks except for on the seams where I have jagged lines that look like I've ploughed a field rather than what they say in the best 'how to' manuals "replaced the missing lines".

So is it the tool I am using that's no good, or is it fine and it's something I am doing because I would have thought there aren't too many different ways to cut a new line into a piece of plastic?

But I may well be very wrong!

Thanks in advance,

Pete

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

HI Pete - how long did you leave the tanks once they were glue to dry - and what glue did you use? Just wondering if the plastic hadn't totally set?

Ive used the Hasegawa scriber for a number of years ( which is the same as the trumpeter one in shape) and in general its fine. However i also use a heavier Tamiya one for thicker lines, and a selection of fine razor saws too. The softness/ hardness of the plastic can also affect how a given scribing tool works.

Jonners

[erewhon1872]

Hi Jonners,

I used the Rocket CA glue and left it for quite a while before sanding.These are very noticeable as I did not have to re-scribe the whole lines, just where I'd sanded out the details on the seams. So I have perfectly good lines around the tanks and terrible lines just at the seams, you cannot see it from a distance but up close they look terrible.

What I am trying to do is replicate the type of line already in the plastic, what I am getting is something that just looks like it's been scratched with the end of a sewing needle.............. I think that may well be the point where I get a 'what's wrong with using a sewing needle?" message!

Cheers for the Hasegawa suggestion, I wasn't aware they made a light or heavier scriber but suspect they may be difficult to purchase as I see a lot of Tamiya tools in model shops but rarely if ever one by Hasegawa.

[old thumper]

Perhaps you were putting too much pressure on the scriber? the scriber only needs to be dragged along the surface with its own weight as pressure.

Having said that I also use the trumpeter scriber and have noticed that on one or two kits the scriber hasn't moved across the surface of the job smoothly, it sort of sticks and stops and starts like the blade is blunt or it is hitting hard lumps in the plastic.

[erewhon1872]

Perhaps you were putting too much pressure on the scriber? the scriber only needs to be dragged along the surface with its own weight as pressure.

Having said that I also use the trumpeter scriber and have noticed that on one or two kits the scriber hasn't moved across the surface of the job smoothly, it sort of sticks and stops and starts like the blade is blunt or it is hitting hard lumps in the plastic.

my problem is I have nice if quite deep grooves in the drop tank, then they get to the bit I have re-scribed and they look nothing like the lines either side of them, at least from a distance they look ok but close up they are terrible,

Had the same problem on other models, it's as if I should have a scriber that will scribe lines with angled sides, but what I get is a furrow worthy of a plough!

Peter

[Troy Smith]

What I am trying to do is replicate the type of line already in the plastic, what I am getting is something that just looks like it's been scratched with the end of a sewing needle.............. I think that may well be the point where I get a 'what's wrong with using a sewing needle?" message!

Cheers for the Hasegawa suggestion, I wasn't aware they made a light or heavier scriber but suspect they may be difficult to purchase as I see a lot of Tamiya tools in model shops but rarely if ever one by Hasegawa.

nothing wrong with using a sewing needle Pete.

I use a needle in a pin chuck to deepen lines and remove control surfaces, I find that works very well.

The Trumpeter scriber is OK, the idea is it cuts a channel, because it's triangular, removing a plastic sliver, rather than the scratch with debris in it.

I have found it more controllable, as it's like a pen.

It's possible to resharpen the Trumpy one using a fine oil stone, which may help.

I saw a suggestion to use a sewing machine needle, as these are stronger, not tried that myself as yet.

HTH

T

[Foghorn Leghorn]

Scribing can be a very personal thing and some prefer different tools to others. I use a needle when I'm doing circles but my preference is this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dental-Examination-Endodontic-Double-Ended-Probe-23-17-Tartar-Calculus-Tools-/271849388424?hash=item3f4b7c7988

the angled end rather than the curved end.

I start off with light passes and gradually put more pressure on. The tip that seemed weird to me at the time is once you've cleaned out the bur and you're about finished, run some liquid glue along the panel line. Works a treat for me, I thought it would have softened the edge of the panel line but it 'unifies it' for want of a better word.

Neil

[colin]

As Jonners said, the plastic is still soft from when glued, if your using a liquid glue it stays soft for quite some time, especially when you cover the joins with CA to sand them, the plastic has no where to vent off the solvent and dry hard, staying soft under the CA glue your using to fill the seams then you come along to rescribe the line and hit the soft plastic which then 'furrows up' as you say instead of cutting out the plastic.

It's flipping annoying as I've had the same problem, often a few days after I've sanded the line and the come to redo the lines

[infofrog]

Scribing can be a very personal thing and some prefer different tools to others. I use a needle when I'm doing circles but my preference is this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dental-Examination-Endodontic-Double-Ended-Probe-23-17-Tartar-Calculus-Tools-/271849388424?hash=item3f4b7c7988

the angled end rather than the curved end.

I start off with light passes and gradually put more pressure on. The tip that seemed weird to me at the time is once you've cleaned out the bur and you're about finished, run some liquid glue along the panel line. Works a treat for me, I thought it would have softened the edge of the panel line but it 'unifies it' for want of a better word.

Neil

I like that .. That would be a good line cleaner ..

My go to scriber is UMM

Rick

[fingers]

Okay now to give a slightly different method, I use a scalpel with a curved blade (No 10 I think) starting from the remaining good panel line I carefully rock it until the tip enters the other good panel line thus making a fine line, I then take another curved blade which is blunter and has been roughly sharpened so that there are lines across the blade and draw this along the line to file out some materiel and open out the slot. After the line is in place a combination of needle/scriber/probe and micromesh is applied to, hopefully, give a panel line which matches the others.

The dental probe looks a good tool and using thin glue/MEK is a good idea.

[Ronan71]

I like that .. That would be a good line cleaner ..

My go to scriber is UMM

Rick

I have this one as well, in both sizes, I think the SCR-01 is the larger one. I also have some of the Radu Brinzan scribers which I find good as well, and in addition I sometimes use the Tamiya scriber.

Here is a link to the page about the RB scriber I'm using: http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_110&products_id=329

[erewhon1872]

thanks to all for the suggestions and information, I'll check out the various tools on the links and try one or two of them out, I do like the look of the Dentistry tool but may not be able to stop myself saying "soooo, Mr, Bond, we meet again" every time I use it though!

Pete

[kev67]

As I do quite a lot of scribing, basically because most of my models are vac form and have no panel lines I normally use these items

Metal foil scriber

Compass needle in a small Chuck

Cocktail stick

Scotch 471 blue tape

[Space Ranger]

Hi Jonners,

I used the Rocket CA glue and left it for quite a while before sanding.

That's your problem. CA glue when fully cured is MUCH harder than styrene and cannot be worked like styrene. My suggestion is to use a liquid styrene cement, such as Tamiya's Extra Thin, for joining plastic parts and leave the CA for other uses. If you must use CA, then you'll need to saw across the seam with a fine saw instead of using a needle-like scriber. But then you'll have the issue of trying to make your saw-scribed lines match your needle-scribed lines.

I have never understood why modelers try to use CA glue to assemble plastic models instead of the solvent-type cements specifically designed for the purpose, if only for this reason. Yes, it sets almost immediately, but why be in such a hurry?

Edited January 10, 2016 by Space Ranger

[erewhon1872]

That's your problem. CA glue when fully cured is MUCH harder than styrene and cannot be worked like styrene. My suggestion is to use a liquid styrene cement, such as Tamiya's Extra Thin, for joining plastic parts and leave the CA for other uses. If you must use CA, then you'll need to saw across the seam with a fine saw instead of using a needle-like scriber. But then you'll have the issue of trying to make your saw-scribed lines match your needle-scribed lines.

I have never understood why modelers try to use CA glue to assemble plastic models instead of the solvent-type cements specifically designed for the purpose, if only for this reason. Yes, it sets almost immediately, but why be in such a hurry?

the CA on the joints of the drop tanks may well explain why I get terrible results re-scribing those, but I have used the same scribing tool on panel lines on wings where there's been no trace of CA and got equally bad results, but that may well be just my mistake technique rather than the scriber!

Regards,

Pete

[hacker]

Rescribing takes a lot of practice. You also have to flexible with what you are going to use. l have several different scribes l use depending upon the job that is required. You just need to have patience and practice. If you make a mistake just fill it in. l either use putty or even CA glue to fill them in depending.

Edited January 11, 2016 by hacker

[Watcher]

Some thoughts:

• If you have filled a gap with a soft drying putty then the scribing tool will gouge; I use Milliput extra fine which is harder.
• I use a micro saw blade sometimes to start a line - if it will fit. I do this especially if the line is over a wing or the like;
• I use the Trumpeter scriber and also the Squadron one. If needs be I fix a darning needle in a pin vice. It depends on how much space you have.
• I tend to use Dymo tape to mark out the lines. I cut it into thin strips if I need to make complex shapes.

Hope this helps.

Matthew

[Dave Fleming]

Depneds on the surface and the underlying material, but one of my favourites is the scribing saw set originally sold by Trimaster, available via Hasegawa these days:

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-4/Sup

They also do a pointed scriber which has a very fine point, and is good for small lines, but it does have the issues you mention if the material is harder.

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTT-1/Sup

Also got an RB one on the way - recommended on this video, which is a good tutorial as well for scribing over superglue

Edited January 11, 2016 by Dave Fleming

[CedB]

I'm pleased with my 'Scribe-R File' scribers and my nano saws from RB Productions (both recommended to me by Biggles87).

You'll need a spare, small X-acto handle but I expect you have one of those, somewhere