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Hase 1/72 P-47d....SEAC!


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you had me really worried for a second.....I was wondering why you were stripping the newly applied paint!!! It's all ok now I'm up to speed.....

the P-47 looks great. The other thing (we can't talk about it on here! :D ), I have found blutac is very good at removing masking solution! I found out the bad way!!! :doh:

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To answer your question ced.....

24505777472_0e48bc3e03_k.jpg20160126_005413 by robert mulvey, on Flickr

Paint on

24532039451_34afdb2219_k.jpg20160126_010422 by robert mulvey, on Flickr

And the big reveal!!

24318871350_4d84c1effe_k.jpg20160126_011455 by robert mulvey, on Flickr

So actually not bad! Odd touch up here and there done and then it's time to move on!

24588446766_5c2c830092_k.jpg20160126_012921 by robert mulvey, on Flickr

Underside white lines painted by hand then touched up on the grey and the demarcation lines

24247030179_3e6747df2d_k.jpg20160126_014232 by robert mulvey, on Flickr

Does anyone know if I can use these bad boys for a seac bird.... the 500lb bombs don't look big enough, so 1000lb feels right! And looks cooler....

24532736691_a383d125ac_k.jpg20160126_015421 by robert mulvey, on Flickr

24615037105_29c4b1d39e_k.jpg20160126_020028 by robert mulvey, on Flickr

24532832721_af5cc8b0a6_k.jpg20160126_020049 by robert mulvey, on Flickr

Wheel wells have a few bits of paint here and there and then got stuck on, I have also added the little rear wheel doors.

So all that's needed is a few bits sorted on the white lines a good old micromesh once all properly dried and then I can look at gloss and transfers!

Rob

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Oh and the reason I am up so late is my wife's friend has had to be rushed to hospital, not very good for her or my wife as she is in their house to make sure their son is ok.... however for me not so bad as I got on with the above!

Rob

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Hello Rob, nice progress.

Please forgive me for going against the trend of commenting what a great paint job you done, because I see scope for doing it better.

Are you happy with the result? If you are, you can stop reading the rest. If you are not, my comments may help you to do it better.

In regards to the white stripes, Tamiya paint is very tricky to apply by brush. Did you try to paint them in one go with rather thick paint?

I found Vallejo Model paints very nicely. Maybe you should give them a try. The key is to use the paint thinned and apply 2-3 coats - patience is the key.

Are you using the brush in the pictures for your painting? If so, I suggest to invest in some quality brushes in different sizes. Quality brushes in combination with thinned down paint applied in 2-3 coats should make a noticeable difference.

And when using acrylics, a primer coat (out of a rattle can) does help too.

Cheers, Peter

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Cheers Peter, some strong advice. I agree with you on the white lines on the underside, they are not smooth enough, they were applied in coats of 3 and thinned but really should have been done the same way as the ones on top which turned out a lot better. I should have taken johns advice and forked out for a white primer rattle can for the white line.

Primer has been raised before and I should give it a go really to see the results!

VM paints are nice, I have used there German range before, they are also expensive and I cannot fork out at the moment, but will do when I can. Can they be micromeshed? My experience before has been they they are not that robust??

The brushes as of medium quality and new, I have lots of sizes, I like to stick to nylon and I feel they are better than hair and softer but again I don't have massive knowledge in this area.

Thanks for the points they will help a lot, it's my birthday next month so maybe the wife can stump up some cash and by some VM set so! .... I won't hold my breath mind....

Rob

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Yes model paint is rather expensive for the quantities you get. But after the initial cost, it normally lasts for a while.

I am not really an expert in brushing acrylic as I only use the stuff for detailing. But water based acrylic paint creates a latex like film which doesn't stick to plastic too well (which is the reason for a primer coat) and I would think that it is maybe a bit tricky to micromesh over it.

But there shouldn't be a need to micromesh if your surface preparation and painting is done well.

Practicing painting on some old models would help to get the hang of it.

Cheers, Peter

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Yes model paint is rather expensive for the quantities you get. But after the initial cost, it normally lasts for a while.

I am not really an expert in brushing acrylic as I only use the stuff for detailing. But water based acrylic paint creates a latex like film which doesn't stick to plastic too well (which is the reason for a primer coat) and I would think that it is maybe a bit tricky to micromesh over it.

But there shouldn't be a need to micromesh if your surface preparation and painting is done well.

Practicing painting on some old models would help to get the hang of it.

Cheers, Peter

cheers Peter, that appreciated! I have a good few models that can be practiced on now! My first bunch could do with an over haul....

Rob

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I might even get ahead of you one day Sean .... Cheers I am getting a bit more time in the evenings now I am out of Christmas mode in store!

Rob

You'll have this one finished anyway, although I got my paint for the undersides delivered

today, so I might catch up.

As someone who's just started using acrylics after 30 odd years of enamels....boy is it a different world.

White paint..huh... :banghead:

Sean

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  • 2 weeks later...

Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr

23968892994_09e14f5525_k.jpgUntitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr

24488703662_8478dc624b_k.jpgUntitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr

Lots of surgical spirit involved. ... I may reopen my WIP if it works out.... anyone know of a way to get maskol out of a gun bay.....

Mod's that's the last you will see of a no p47 related aircraft ☺

Rob

Hi Rob,

I'm really enjoying the build.

Not sure if it's already sorted but did you get the Maskol out of the gun bays?

I once had Maskol in places that wasn't good and someone suggested to me that rather than try and peel it off just simply "wash it off" with water.

I'm pretty sure it worked...the Maskol basically softened more and more with water applied and eventually I could just clean it all off/out when fully thin and watery with soft brushes/paper towel/tissues/cotton buds etc.

Maybe put some Maskol on a spare piece similar to the gun bays (lots of detail), let it dry fully, then try and remove it with the water method.

Worth a try if you still have the problem

Cheers

Bruce

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So here is where we are at with some pictures.

24766750711_17cc41cba7_z.jpgUntitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr

24860177995_b7cf156e55_k.jpgUntitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr

Decals selected from an alarm sheet, I didn't what to use the hase ones as the colour and shape is wrong in my opinion

Then I did the upper wing and fin flash (where is the pic of the fin!?)

24860048085_4aab6ada64_k.jpgUntitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr

And then I did this....

24860067635_9b351887b9_k.jpgUntitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr

Oh dam.... I will do the other roundels ready and then this will be left until the right transfers surface, no problem as the corsair GB is starting and I have a hurricane on the go!

Rob

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Rob, I don't know if Micro Liquid Decal Film will help or not. I have some, but never used it. PC says that he's used it, but is difficult to verify its efficacy, as who knows if the transfer would have worked or not in the first place.

The decals on Tiny cracked here and there, but not too bad and I was able to salvage them. I thought I'd warn you, as they came from the same Xtradecal Corsair sheet as some that may have re-crossed the Atlantic in your direction.

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