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- Hi, I'm Sebastien and I'm a Tornadoholic

- Hi Sebastien.

This kit is lovely, and now I have two under my belt and a dozen or so to build, I thought I might do a WIP.

My point isn't to build the ultimate Tornado. I couldn't, and the one and only General Melchett is doing a brilliant job about it.

I'm just here to help average modellers like me to avoid the little troubles you can have building this kit.

So I'll accept all pointers, kicks in the butt, subtle and not so subtle hints and bribes Lagavulin pieces of advice you'll throw my way, and be grateful about them.

Now, on with the build.

I started by more or less following the instructions (yeah, I know, who does that?), and assembled the cockpit to the fuselage bottow and front wheel well :

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I glued the WSO instrument panel and while the glue was setting, I dry fitted a nose wall to the fuselage. That way, the instrument panel took its intended position without fuss.

tornadoidsall002.JPG

I scrounged the IPs from a Tornado IDS and the console panels from the GR4 kit:

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Then it was time to install the air intakes, without gluing the front to the fuselage:

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Now, the intake ramps. On the left, how they should be for a Tornado sitting on the ground. On the right, how they are in the box. You have to remove the protruding bit. Shaun, thanks for the tip.

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The intake fronts are assembled and glued to the nose walls.

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The nose walls are dryfitted to the fuselage:

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The importance of not gluing the intake block front to the fuselage is there: now, you have some leeway to adjust everything.

I don't remember who wrote about that here, and I'm sorry, but whoever you are, thanks a lot.

To be continued.

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Looks great so far Sebastien.

I built a MFG1 Tornado awhile back using Hahen decals.

Just be very careful putting the walkways on.

I've never seen thinner decals before in my life.

Good luck with the rest of your bulid.

/Bosse

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We're getting close to the mildly irritating bits, so...

This bar will make the wing pivots align simultaneously with the airflow. As I'm a very serious modeler and I never will go around in my room with a model in my hand playing with the VG wing and making jet noises (especially if there are potential witnesses in a 2.73 mile radius), why is that important? Well, it'll help aligning the pylons in the position you choose. If you don't wident the holes a wee bit, friction will be such as nothing will ever move again, so I widened them holes with my trusty though dirty scalpel blade.

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The wings are glued in place with a smaller sweep than intended by Revell. That means I threw away the T-shaped part that goes over the wing pivots.

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It was the time I chose to install the intake ceiling/backbone part, and it was the time the kit was waiting for to bite me in the nether regions.

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I glued from port to starboard. Everything was OK-ish on the port side, but I had to remove plastic from the outer edge of the starboard intake ceiling for the part to go approximatively where I wanted it to go.

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So now it's Milliput time to correct the various trouble spots.

More to come soon.

Hoping you enjoy the build,

S.

Edited by Sebastien
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Great stuff! I have this kit and desperately want to pylons to swivel, the child inside me wants an in-flight Tornado with all that working. I'm currently trying to fabricate such a mechanism on a 1/72 Revell Tornado as well as an F-111 in the same scale but I have yet to succeed...

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Damn, I missed that one.

I'll use this tip for my next Tornadoes.

Thanks,

S.

I think its a kit you learn something new every time you build another one?

Shaun.

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I think its a kit you learn something new every time you build another one?

Shaun.

Something like that, yeah.

S.

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And I was indeed punished for not reading Shaun's excellent post regarding how to properly build a Revell Tornado:

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So, if I understood correctly what has be written here, the black line reprensents the correct radome rear end:

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So let's putty the radome joint:

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And after some filing, sanding, cursing, and various stuff ending with "ing":

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And now, with its glorious fin, and the wrong ECM suite cause the GR1/GR4 boxing only has the Brit ECM that I neglected to use on my previous GR1 build:

tornadoidsall028.JPG

To be continued...

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Looks like your having fun with the filler?

Its might be too late,but do you want the fin ECM bar from my kit, I can pop it in the same packet as the seals?

Shaun.

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Looks like your having fun with the filler?

Its might be too late,but do you want the fin ECM bar from my kit, I can pop it in the same packet as the seals?

Shaun.

Filler is fun!

And if you don't mind, thanks.

Cheers,

Sebastien

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Some Xtracolor RAL7012 and 7035 later (man these paints STINK!):

tornadoidsall029.JPG

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The radome is painted (BTW, never ever use Gunze Mr Color lacquers on Xtracolor paint, don't ask).

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And the walkways decals are on:

tornadoidsall035.JPG

Now, the stencils (yay).

Cheers,

Sebastien

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Good work there Sebastian. Only found this thread now so been enjoying your progress from the first post.

Edited by Col.
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Looks great so far Sebastien.

I built a MFG1 Tornado awhile back using Hahen decals.

Just be very careful putting the walkways on.

I've never seen thinner decals before in my life.

Good luck with the rest of your bulid.

/Bosse

Hi Bosse,

I've started stenciling the Tornado, and Hahen decals are not that thin.

In fact, they even remind me of a Jethro Tull song.

ThickAsABrick25thAnniv.jpg

Cheers,

S.

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A Marineflieger Tornado AND Jethro Tull? This just gets better.

I have interesting perversions.

S.

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One side of the fuselage is decalled.

I used HaHen decals, and I can't say I'm quite satisfied with them. I strongly dislike the whole sheet being covered in decal film, it makes stencilling even more a pain in the subequatorial regions it normally is.

Then, there's the thickness of the decals themselves. It might be my sample, I don' know, but once they're set, you can feel them quite easily by running your fingerip on the model. And forget about decal setting solutions (BTW, anybody here know about something stronger than Daco strong that doesn't involve C4?).

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The flaps are glued on. On step 45 of the assembly, swap parts 106 and 108, or the assembly won't go that well...

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Now, on with the stencilling :zombie:

Cheers,

Sebastien

Edited by Sebastien
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Looking great Sebastien.

My decal sheet was the other way around.

I didn't use any decal solution at all.

Guess the clearfilm varies in thickness.

/Bosse

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