Borez Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Just after some advice on clear coating model cars, I've tried Plasti-kote but I'm not happy with the results, the rattle can has that orange peel effect to it and it looks a little sticky even when dry. So any recommendations on clear coats ( either rattle can or airbrush ) I've been looking at Mr Top coat but to be honest I'm really wary as if it's not right it'll screw up all my hard work. Also what about clear coat over plastic glass, do you guys do this, is it OK? Or do you not even bother with clear coat? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Simple answer yes I bother with clear coating. Brands to use are many, the best I think is zero paints 2 part clear but the premixed clear they do is also very good for airbrushing and very rarely do they react with the decals Tamiya ts13 can be great if used properly as in medium to thick coat is very hot and melts decals easily so plenty of light coats over time is the best All as aqua gloss is again very good and as it's water based doesn't react with anything but can run with a slightly heavy coat but is the only clear I know that can be used on clear parts but dipped not sprayed I've read that Halfords clear is pretty good aswell but that's obviously depending on what country your from You probably know thus already but micro mesh is your best friend when you want a perfect shine to a model and take your time and don't rush anything with clear coating as it's the last step in the process and it would be a shame to ruin a build because of impatience Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borez Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Simple answer yes I bother with clear coating. Brands to use are many, the best I think is zero paints 2 part clear but the premixed clear they do is also very good for airbrushing and very rarely do they react with the decals Tamiya ts13 can be great if used properly as in medium to thick coat is very hot and melts decals easily so plenty of light coats over time is the best All as aqua gloss is again very good and as it's water based doesn't react with anything but can run with a slightly heavy coat but is the only clear I know that can be used on clear parts but dipped not sprayed I've read that Halfords clear is pretty good aswell but that's obviously depending on what country your from You probably know thus already but micro mesh is your best friend when you want a perfect shine to a model and take your time and don't rush anything with clear coating as it's the last step in the process and it would be a shame to ruin a build because of impatience Shaun Thanks, I was looking into the Zero Paints 2 part clear as we speak. Didn't know they made a premixed version, I'll look into that. I have a bunch of fine grit pads ( all the way up to 8000 ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 For cars I have always ysed automotive paints, expensive but good. Use same brand thinners and slow catalyst that allows the paint to level..and ypu'll never go back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 The premixed is 1k where as the 2 part is 2k, 2k dries quicker and is the same as proper cars clear so is properly strong. 1k is the same just takes about 1 day or 2 longer to dry but overall has the same strength Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borez Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 The premixed is 1k where as the 2 part is 2k, 2k dries quicker and is the same as proper cars clear so is properly strong. 1k is the same just takes about 1 day or 2 longer to dry but overall has the same strength Shaun Thanks. I've gone for the 2 part. Ordered some today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 It's been mentioned on a lot of threads recently, but please be careful with the 2K and use common sense (and a mask & extraction) as it's very unpleasant stuff. I generally go for Halfords clear straight from the can. Practice, practice and keep the can moving fast and you'll achieve a finish as good as any 2K from an airbrush! I've used it over many modern acrylic paints and never had an issue, even over decals. Get the thickness right and you can cut it back within 24 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borez Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 It's been mentioned on a lot of threads recently, but please be careful with the 2K and use common sense (and a mask & extraction) as it's very unpleasant stuff. I generally go for Halfords clear straight from the can. Practice, practice and keep the can moving fast and you'll achieve a finish as good as any 2K from an airbrush! I've used it over many modern acrylic paints and never had an issue, even over decals. Get the thickness right and you can cut it back within 24 hours. Is this the Halfords stuff you mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bari Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hi, I used this as part of a touch up kit on my car and thought I would try it out. It turned out like this after three coats this was over Revell Aqua acrylic and was brushed on, it was a milky liquid and flowed nicely leaving no brushmarks.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borez Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 That looks very interesting Bari, thanks. After reading up on that 2K stuff and how toxic it is I'm not sure I want to be using this in a windowless loft conversion with only a small spray booth in the room. Anyone else have experience using this, is it really that bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 (edited) Is this the Halfords stuff you mean? I use this one: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=165505&productId=203865&storeId=10001Here's Halfords clear over their Appliance White and Tamiya decals. Edited December 31, 2015 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 (edited) That looks very interesting Bari, thanks. After reading up on that 2K stuff and how toxic it is I'm not sure I want to be using this in a windowless loft conversion with only a small spray booth in the room. Anyone else have experience using this, is it really that bad? Well, I think you know my opinion already. I wouldn't risk permanent health damage...it's only modelling after all!!! Edited December 31, 2015 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borez Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 I use this one: <a data-ipb="nomediaparse" data-cke-saved-href="http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=165505&productId=203865&storeId=10001Here"href="http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=165505&productId=203865&storeId=10001Here" s"="" class="bbc_url" title="External link">http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=165505&productId=203865&storeId=10001Here's Halfords clear over their Appliance White and Tamiya decals. Yeah, that looks great. I shall definitely be buying a can from the Halfords up the road to try out. Shame I spent £12 on the 2K yesterday though ( +£6 P&P ) don't think I'll be risking that stuff indoors with just a spray booth though. Should have researched it first. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 2k is a little nasty, maybe forgot to mention that a good respirator will be needed with any cellulose based paint and good ventilation. I don't always think there are some of us who are allowed to model in the house, I'm confined to the conservatory you see. Shaun 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spad Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 I tend to use Zero 1K (or pre-mix, however you know it) and cut back with the superfine sanding/polishing sponges with a final polish with Tamiya Finishing Compound. I also always give each intermediate coat (especially primer stages) a quick wipe over with the fine sponge to remove dust specs and nibs. Personally I would never use the 2k stuff - it really isn't friendly to you and, besides, it gives too much gloss for my liking, the pre-mix is much closer to a real finish, in-scale, in my opinion. I have also had a bit of success with the Alclad clears, both acrylic and lacquer as well as Klear (maybe hard to get these days?) There was another thread on this that lived for a short while: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234912442-painting-and-polishing-vehicles/ ATBRick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 (edited) I use the 2k from Hiroboy and I love it, I was on the Halfords stuff before but I found that it burnt through the paint for some reason, i couldnt get the right coverage with the can either, maybe becuse I am used to the Tamiya ones and the Halfords cans are huge in comparison, dont get me wrong you can achieve some awesome results with the Halfords but I had to polish the clear every time and with the 2k I dont need too. I spray straight out of the back door so ventilation isnt a problem for me (until we move) Here's a pic of something I sprayed yesterday with the 2k, no polishing and thats dried not wet Edited January 1, 2016 by A5h 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spad Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 That's some really nice work there A5h - love the detail work. Is that a Stoner bike? What kit/decals is that? ATBRick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A5h Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Hi Rick Thanks! Spot on there its the Tamiya RC211V 06 Stoner bike, kit decals + Studio27 cf template and a couple of upgrades Tamiya front fork kit and Hobby Design pe chain set. Tbh its very nearly complete and fingers crossed will be finished today, if you wish or anyone else wants to see the wip I will inbox you a link to an open forum where its on. I rarely post builds on here as I hate uploading to Photobucket to the take it from there and put on here, there maybe a different way to do it but im not aware. Thanks for your comment Ash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borez Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) Hi Rick Thanks! Spot on there its the Tamiya RC211V 06 Stoner bike, kit decals + Studio27 cf template and a couple of upgrades Tamiya front fork kit and Hobby Design pe chain set. Tbh its very nearly complete and fingers crossed will be finished today, if you wish or anyone else wants to see the wip I will inbox you a link to an open forum where its on. I rarely post builds on here as I hate uploading to Photobucket to the take it from there and put on here, there maybe a different way to do it but im not aware. Thanks for your comment Ash Try imgur instead, it's super quick to upload pics. Just drag and drop, no sign in. Edited January 2, 2016 by Borez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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