Badder Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 (edited) Ejector pin marks removed. Evidently I'd removed them all down the left hand side, but not all those on the right. Tut. It just proves that photos can often show flaws which were missed by the naked eye. Edited January 19, 2016 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 (edited) I'm going to take the plunge and try an experiment. For xmas, my Japanese sister-in-law gave me a dozen pots of Japanese 'diorama paint'. The nearest translation is that it's called 'Grit Paint'. We've discovered that it is acrylic based and the nearest thing I can find to it is 'Texture Paint'. 'I've used the green colours while producing my last diorama, and it was great for depicting moss. This time, I am going to go for mud. So, I've applied the sandy coloured paint to the underside of the hull and the sponsons. The stuff has the texture of a gritty mustard and so I dabbed it on with an old brush. Once it has dried I will apply earth washes, (enamels) I will also consider dry brushing. The whole lot will be sealed with varnish. Matt or Satin, I'm not sure, because I haven't yet decided to go for the wet, or the dry look. Anyway, here's the pot of 'Grit paint' and the carrier... This is a liberal covering, but I suspect I can remove/scrape some of it back if needs be. Since these photos were taken, I've applied various washes to the treated area. It's currently drying, but it looks good so far. Pics to follow when fully dry. Edited January 18, 2016 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 (edited) So, it's not fully dry yet, but here's how it's going so far. Yes, it's very muddy underneath. In the diorama, the carrier may be driving through a puddle/ditch/stream. Or it may be on muddy ground, or dry. I haven't yet decided. Whichever, I will adapt the mud on the carrier to suit... not that the underneath will be visible. . Edited January 18, 2016 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 nice mud... how did you achieve the effect, i have ever only got "dried pastel" look..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noelh Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I have one tucked away somewhere. I was inspired to buy one by a really nice colour photo of on in an unusual colour scheme parked up in some trees probably in Tunisia with all the crew's gear and rations scattered around. Never did get to start it. In relation to the 'Forced reconnaissance' title. Isn't that just an example of the Japanese getting it wrong in translation? Force reconnaissance would make more sense. Some of the early Tamiya and other Japanese manufacturers had some hilarious gaffes in their instruction sheets. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Looking very good Badder. I'm fascinated with your mud technique. It looks like it should give a very realistic effect. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Very real mud , good progress for now, cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) nice mud... how did you achieve the effect, i have ever only got "dried pastel" look..... Errr..... it says how a couple of posts up? lol. I used the Japanese 'Grit Paints' I got given for xmas. All I can tell you is that they are acrylic-based 'pastes' of varying colours, each containing 'grit'. The grit varies in granule size, depending on the colour and the substance it is supposed to emulate; so grey (for concrete/stone) and green (for moss/lichen) have a coarse grit, yellowish (for sand) has a finer grit, and white (for snow) has the finest grit. I have only used the green before and that dried with a rubbery texture, so I wasn't sure how the yellows would dry. They have dried 'crunchy' and can be scraped off or chipped back to the undercoat... which leads to some interesting possibilities. For the mud on this carrier, I loaded an old stiff brush with the 'paste' and dabbed it on all over the target areas (as shown in the photos above) It looked a bit suspect, but once it had dried I applied leather brown (un-thinned) in patches, then washed over with neat thinners, spreading some of it around, washing some of it off. And whilst this was still wet I added dabs of Humbrol dark earth weathering powder and worked this in with a brush, concentrating on areas around the rear axle front idler wheel, and the mountings for the suspension units. And finally, I wet brushed with some very dilute black. Tonight I will seal and protect all this with a matt varnish, but I may apply a gloss/satin varnish at a future date if I decide to go for a wet diorama. Edited January 19, 2016 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 I have one tucked away somewhere. I was inspired to buy one by a really nice colour photo of on in an unusual colour scheme parked up in some trees probably in Tunisia with all the crew's gear and rations scattered around. Never did get to start it. In relation to the 'Forced reconnaissance' title. Isn't that just an example of the Japanese getting it wrong in translation? Force reconnaissance would make more sense. Some of the early Tamiya and other Japanese manufacturers had some hilarious gaffes in their instruction sheets! .'Yeah, you're probably right on the translation slip-up. Searching t'internet for 'Reconnaissance in Force' gives many hits with definitions, while 'Forced or Force Reconnaissance' doesn't. P.s, if your Carrier is a Tamiya, be prepared for some wonky fits. I'm not sure whether the hull unit is 'warped' or was originally designed poorly and is off-true. Possibly the latter. The same could be true of the front armour plate and the upper hull sides. And I've just noticed that the rear 'mud flaps' on mine are of differing lengths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Errr..... it says how a couple of posts up? lol. doh... missed that ;-) apologies 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) Work done to the interior, just with Humbrol Dark Earth Weathering Powder at the moment, but I will use enamel washes as well. I will also muddy-up the rear axle/differential by the same method as described for the hull. Once that is done, I will fix the axle and the rear plate with the tools on it. Suspension/wheels, front plate, only dry fitted. It looks a bit messy at the moment but there's still a fair bit of work to do. Note the discrepancy in size between the two rear mud flaps. I will have to sort that out. And trim the desert rat decal off at the top edge. PS I'm thinking of having this carrier speeding through a puddle/shallow ford in the diorama. Edited January 21, 2016 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Lined-up for tomorrow: finish of the construction and weathering of the rear and add mud. Add aerial mounts and radio set to the rear compartment. Finish weathering of rear compartment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 The weathering is already looking very nice! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 (edited) Not quite what I had planned but I've fixed the suspension/wheels in place and have started to dirty them up a bit. I won't plaster them with mud just yet as I may have the carrier ploughing through water, and that being the case most of the mud would be washed off. However, I have weathered them so as to be consistent with splashing through water. I've finished construction of the exhausts, rear axle and rear plate and added mud and rust to those parts underneath and behind the plate. The tools on the plate are pretty clean though as this area wouldn't receive much in the way of splashing because of the mud flaps. I have yet to add the aerial mountings and the radio set. Pics to follow shortly.... Edited January 21, 2016 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 (edited) Yes, I've seen it too...the hair on the left. Edited January 21, 2016 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 (edited) I find it amazing that a photo can make something look so much better, or worse. Luckily, in the case of the carrier's underside, photos definitely make it look better. In fact, I'm quite blown away by how good it looks. Did I really do this? BTW, if I were pedant, I'd hollow out the ends of the exhaust pipes. They really won't be visible to anyone other than a pedant though, so I don't think I'll risk breaking them by trying. I will settle for painting the holes instead. (I am just a BIT of a pedant) Thanks for looking. Badder. Edited January 21, 2016 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 (edited) No one pointed out that I'd missed out a vehicle marking.... I've corrected it now. A jelly baby to the first who spots what it was.Work for tonight: More weathering work on wheels/suspension.Add aerial mountings.Apply another satin varnish to underside. Edited January 23, 2016 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) I have done all the above and have added the towing hook assembly to the rear. That's not a good fit either, and for some reason the modeller has to make the locating holes in the rear plate. Sadly,, my towing hook mount isn't on the vertical... but maybe the driver reversed into something and bent the supporting struts. I've also fixed the front cover. The frontal armour plate is a bad fit - so bad that it will need 'pulling into place' against the front cover with CA. The radio set, and seat have been added to the rear compartment, and all seats have been painted brown. The whole vehicle has received its final coat of satin varnish. Here, the mud on the underside looks a lot darker because the varnish is still wet. Edited January 23, 2016 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) Some more weathering: Edited January 23, 2016 by Badder 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 (edited) Track guards and foot rungs added. More weathering to do on these. You can see where the rubber-band type tracks were joined. I deliberately placed these joins where they would be hidden by mud/water, but thinking about it now I could just as easily have placed them behind the track guards. Doh. Edited January 24, 2016 by Badder 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 I've just watched several videos featuring the mark II because I wasn't sure if the tracks sagged between the drive wheel, supporting wheel and idler wheel. It turns out that they don't. Well, not while the carrier is on the flat they don't. So I assume that an airborne carrier's tracks wouldn't sag either. If anything, they'd be even tighter as the rear road wheels/suspension units would drop due to gravity. But I still made a boo-boo with the tracks. I gave one of them a wash with MIG Earth Wash, completely forgetting that I'd used enamel gun metal as the base coat! Luckily the enamel has only returned to its liquid state and hasn't been washed off, so I've put the model aside while it dries again. Still, I have managed to get this far without gluing various body parts together. Work still to do: Weather the tracks. Add the plentiful internal stowage, including ammunition boxes, rifles and Bren guns. Add external stowage: spare wheel and rope to the front cover plus scratched tarpaulin and extra cammo nets. Add 'wing mirror' and aerials. As for the figures, I shall be leaving these for the time being. They cannot be fitted AFTER the front armour plate has been fixed, so the armour plate and the water container will have to be the very last jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 So, I've just made the tow cable to fit on the front cover of the Carrier. For some reason, I thought it was made of rope. Never mind. I can paint it metallic in situ. I'd somehow lost the piece of string supplied with the kit, so replaced it with some cord I purchased at a sewing shop. I thought I'd be the only customer, but there were ten others in there. All men. Weird. Anyway, I cut a length of cord and glued on the eyelets at each end. The length of the cord was a pure guess, but miraculously, it proved EXACTLY the right length to hook onto one retainer, loop around the other, form a figure of 8 and then hook onto the second retainer. I doubt I could have done it so well even if I had measured it! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 A complete wetahering job for now, nice result for now, cheers Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) A complete wetahering job for now, nice result for now, cheers Badder Thank you Francis. I hope not to spoil it! Edited January 27, 2016 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Badder, on 27 Jan 2016 - 7:38 PM, said:Thank you Francis. I hope not to spoil it! I understand perfectly , but apparently seen, I do not think so , Greetings 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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