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Fiat 806 -"Gangshow"- build album.


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`Little Andi hang in there, your pleasure to build will be that much bigger than just going to the shop and buy it off the shelf.

i had a similar post office mishap myself with two orders from the USA over xmas; a bugatti AMT and an Aston AMT all 1 /32 though...

Jeremy well done i am following your build through this thread.

am starting the mephisto but will not post until completed, too many posts already on this car.

I will paint it "London bus" red-orange weathered after all. Right now, am in the process of placing the rivets and using the Dutch youtube on the subject as a guide.

but enough on the Mephisto, i will shut up and cheer YOU ALL on building the 806 from the sidelines !

as for the wheels, it is an incredible task to rebuild the wheels, i suppose you will use fishing line threads and cardboard ? so my hat off vontrips.

good luck everyone and above all : enjoy !!

We should look at a Gangshow for the Mefistofele too as they have similarities! I'm wanting to build it too and have many mods planned. I plan to respoke the Mefistofele wheels too; probably in one hit whilst I do the 806 wheels! Help! :) Edited by vontrips
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OK guys - it has arrived (yay me)! ................... But mainly I would like to give a shout out to Nick at model hobbies for his determined efforts to keep a customer happy, and Danielle on the service desk for her indomitable spirit and a very cheery disposition in the light of circumstances ................ THANK YOU both.

Edited by Little Andi
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Cheers guys! Problem is, I made them a good few years ago (when my eyes worked!). :)

Ah ... well, if we're going to show pic's of wire wheels that we buggered our eyes up with .........................

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Obviously another (very) old build - The Revell/Monogram MG-TC 1/24. And coincidentally this was also originally from the pot metal kit of yore. Murderously bad body and wings on this thing - spent many hours massaging it back into some semblance of MG-dom!

This method is lacing monofilament across a bobbin - worked out quite well after many false starts.

As an aside I shall be groking the kit this afternoon, as despite all my bleating once it finally arrived I had to put it to one side in order to run all those errands that I'd put off whilst waiting in for the danged thing to turn up ................ Have had the briefest of forays into the box and Steve it seems got it about right with his review.

However, as I just turned the sprues over in my hands I just kept thinking of all the solutions and improvements(?) it might be possible to make.

STEVE - you're quiet - post something ............................................... See you on the bench guys ....................... :coolio:

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Img970.jpg

Now that is Schweet! Who made a larger (1/16?) version back in the day. Saw a build story in Airfix Magazine when I was a kid and always wanted to build one. Think it inspired me to buy my first airbrush and car kits , so ran out of kit pocket money. :(

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126d1e2f-9ee5-401e-af6f-3b44bf7925ee_zps

Perhaps a point of discussion?

This is one of what I'm calling the two studio photos of this racer.

Anyone like to guess a colour for the drum brakes? I'm assuming the front surface suggests a shiney cast iron machined surface, or even alloy?

What interests me though us the dark fading to the edges. It could be airbrushed during photo retouching, but why? The gradation in both pics is similar, yet probably done by different artists at different times and they are unlikely to have created the same fading effect.

The darkening could be due to heat damage during practice? It's darker near the shoe contact area and may show heat dissipation?

Or, the drum edges may have been oversprayed with the wheels bolted on?

Possibly the wheels were red and they thought some red around the drums would visually pull it all together?

Maybe they were too busy to give a damn! :)

Edited by vontrips
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That would Entex that made the 1/16 kit. I must have got this somewhere a long time ago.

IMG_3780_zps9yfbct5b.jpg

That's it! What a great piece of box art too! Nice shot. Nice use of white space and a bit of Helvetica + the Mod roundel...wouldn't look out of place today (apart from it's not been bugg*red up by a badly paid, 12 year old bearded graphic designer who rides fixies!!!). :) Edited by vontrips
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Here is it's running mate from that series of 1/16 scale Entex classics. By comparison this kit is still sealed in plastic while the other one someone started and mucked up the body paint. It's an easy fix, just something I never got around to doing. When I was around 20, I had a 53 MG TD with a Corvette engine in it, very fun and for the time very fast.

IMG_3781_zpse844hg6g.jpg

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Just a short update.

I am lousy at painting wood. So i used real wood stickers on the PE given. These wood stickers come in A4 sized sheets, and i cut them into strips. I got them when i was in Japan.

They are really sticky, so there shouldn't be any problem of them staying put.

DSC_0479.jpg

DSC_0482.jpg

The engine has been painted and now waiting for the paint to dry. Should have more pics in a couple of days.

Jeremy

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Nice one Jeremy - in this scale that wood looks just fine, a notable improvement in fact. I must admit I'd taken a look at that "etched" wooden floor and decided myself to go this sort of route - I'm sure I can find a better use for some sheet brass a little down the line.

Well done ... you're still in the lead .............. :popcorn:

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Jeremy ; Very convincing and well executed to fit.

The metal looks great. Are you using Alclad, AK ? or other ?

Looks like you applied a wash to the rivets ?

Well done.

i just finished painting the firewall and floors on the Mephisto. i went for the oil technique this time. i used the real wood for the Hispano Suiza and i think when it comes to scale oil is more realistic.

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The good news and many thanks to Rich AKA ptcruiser who has kindly lent a Protar tyre for correcting Italeri's errors! :)

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Unfortunately, the model has sat on a polystyrene supporting board which has attached itself to the tyre surface...Looks like a chemical reaction between the two materials. Put my conservators hat on and started swabbing with cotton wool buds and IDA and detergents. Eventually it all lifted off...yay!

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Overall, it looks good to mould. There is some shrinkage at the injection points which could be attributed to ageing, but I bet they were like this when new. There are what I thought were cracks which worried me about removal from the rim, but under magnification they appear to be cast in. The rubber appears to be pliable enough if removal is needed.

Edited by vontrips
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Hi,

The metal paint I used was Mr.Hobby Plate Silver, Sm-08. I didn't use a wash, but sprayed mist coats to let a little gloss black Base show through. This gives it a little depth. It's a cheat I know, but works well enough.

I have tried oil washes before, but it turned out a disaster. Now considering whether to give the wood some natural stain. Since they are real wood, they take the Minwax stains quite well.

Edited by Jnkm13
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John ... I assume the good news is you're going to have a crack at casting these tyres?? ................. If so, (apart from putting dibs on a set) I do have a couple of questions?

Yes, fire away Andi as I'm sure you're going to cover some of what I was about to highlight! ;-)

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Yes, fire away Andi as I'm sure you're going to cover some of what I was about to highlight! ;-)

Not at all - I'm being a little impatient, and as I sat here watching the pic's upload my mind was racing ahead of itself. My questions were just how one would go about mounting the tyres (now solid)? - onto the wheel? - that sort of thing.

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Yep Andi, this is what I'm chewing over. My casting knowledge isn't huge and I have a very short favourite materials list! I'm au fait with RTV silicons and keep to my trusted 50/50 mix polyurethane resin. Really, I need to get some advice from Tiranti this week. My main objectives are obviously to get the best reproduction I can and not to cock up Rich's wheel and tyre! Typically, the easier to use I make them the more preparation and work I need to do.

Some considerations (chime in folk!).

Doing them in black pigmented silicone?

Good: Mr Windgrove likes this method. Easy to fit on rim.

Bad: Many pros refuse to touch the stuff as it can deteriorate quickly on display. Tricky to mould as I'd need two part moulds for the outside with a third stepped inner core to get the rim recess.

Resin casting?

Good: You can airbrush it whatever rubber tones you wish and sand in flatspots. Won't deteriorate, crack or flatten over time.

Bad: bugger to fit! Easier production method for me is to cast with the rim, lathe internal hole to fit original rim. Downside is modeller would have to remove the central lip off their wheels until they have an interference sliding tyre fit.

At the moment I'm thinking a two part resin tyre with the join on the inside wall ridge. This would allow you to keep the rims as they are. The inside half would be a thin covering cap, akin to Revell 1/8th whitewall inserts. This would be a pig of a job for me! I'd need to make two masters, then machine both of them to a close fitting rebate, then recast both parts. Not impossible, but best avoided!

It's really up to you guys! :)

Edited by vontrips
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Hmmm ..... Yes, my concerns exactly. I understand the mechanics of casting, less so the subtleties. I still have two litres of VERY stale casting resin sitting on my shelf, something that I'd like to be able to do ... but doubt I have the desire to. Other people just seem to do it so much better than me.

Now then, that little problem. With previous proviso's in place I have had a little think about this: I'm already playing with lacing this wheel and slowly establishing a methodology for same. Not there yet but can already quantify that removing the "spine" on the outside of the wheel would be a probable no-no for me as although a pain it has been accommodated within the lacing process; whether the wheel was strong enough to turn that spine off after it has been rebuilt one would have to see, but it's a risky procedure to have it collapse (and I fear permanently) as it was machined.

Back to the initial problem, I too was thinking a two part solution, but splitting it at a convenient groove in the tread; thus giving you two pretty even parts approx' centrally divided. The central spine just needs an accommodating void in the interior and so long as the two mating surfaces were reasonable hiding the join within the tread should be easy enough!

PS ............ Just in case, I've reconciled my self to using the kit tyres at a push? With a bit of judicious sanding I can reduce the overall diameter, which according to the photo's doesn't look a million miles off and worn post race tyres might look pretty excellent anyway? ............... I'm going for a "ridden hard a put away wet look" - so I won't be worrying about any Showroom lustre .... :coolio:

Edited by Little Andi
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