Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Thank you John! I'm so grateful to you to have bought me the solution for those blinking Italeri's tyres... Thank you thank you thank you!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 P.S: enlarging the photo with the tyres, I see I have to complete satin black painting on some nipples made of resin (they look a bit ivory). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 P.S 2 (sorry...) : Hint for those who will order VT tyres to John (very good idea): an accurate looking to the tyres on the Bordino's race photo shows that they are highly pressured, so just give a light sanding on the tread in contact with the floor. Wear a protection mask to sand the polyurethane resin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 5 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said: Wear a protection mask to sand the polyurethane resin. The resin particles will get airborne. To prevent that I always wet-sand resin pieces. Just take a small pan of water to your hobby table, wet the resin part and start sanding. This way the dust particles will become part of the water drops. I tend to wet the part again every 15 seconds or so. It works nicely, you don't have to wear a mask and you can work indoors. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Hello to all, My wheels over, I come back on the 14th step and in particular, on the ignition wires and connectors. I have chosen a yellow wire because this color is one of the most probable on the 806 (thanks CC for all the infos about that). The connectors are made of tin, thanks to CC again for his tuto and comments about that too (besides being a great model maker with a patience without limit, is a real alive encyclopedia on all which touches classics cars) I had to cut and remove the top of 121D in order to cement the wire on the distributor (I had made 0,7mm holes on them). The most difficult in all that is that my PVC 0,65 mm wire lacks flexibilty. Suggestion to get it softer? The way the wire follows is the one shown on 16th step. It is certainly the most probable. Indeed, these wires were not well isolated and they had to be as near as possible from the cooling pipes. Ok, now, I just have to make the same for the 11 other wires and connectors! Once again, I recommend the use of cyano activator: it helps much in such situations IMHO. All the best Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 P.S: without relation with the above post: do you know what is this? as far as I know, it's the only picture on which we can see this detail. Waiting for your comments... Notice how thick is the 64E part compared with this picture. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 58 minutes ago, Olivier de St Raph said: Hello to all, My wheels over, I come back on the 14th step and in particular, on the ignition wires and connectors. I have chosen a yellow wire because this color is one of the most probable on the 806 (thanks CC for all the infos about that). The connectors are made of tin, thanks to CC again for his tuto and comments about that too (besides being a great model maker with a patience without limit, is a real alive encyclopedia on all which touches classics cars) I had to cut and remove the top of 121D in order to cement the wire on the distributor (I had made 0,7mm holes on them). The most difficult in all that is that my PVC 0,65 mm wire lacks flexibilty. Suggestion to get it softer? The way the wire follows is the one shown on 16th step. It is certainly the most probable. Indeed, these wires were not well isolated and they had to be as near as possible from the cooling pipes. Ok, now, I just have to make the same for the 11 other wires and connectors! Once again, I recommend the use of cyano activator: it helps much in such situations IMHO. All the best Olivier Hi, Olivier Concerning your ignition wires: 1/ color: IMHO, yellow is OK, but yours seem too bright...you should find a way to reduce that. 2/ flexibility: you could heat them to give the right shape, before placing ...you could make previously a template for each of them Nice work, aniways friendly, CC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 1 hour ago, Olivier de St Raph said: P.S: without relation with the above post: do you know what is this? as far as I know, it's the only picture on which we can see this detail. Waiting for your comments... Notice how thick is the 64E part compared with this picture. Olivier, I believe it is the ignition timing lever. The lever part is in the kit - though it's not very good. The part you made for the steering wheel would have notches so the lever could be rotated and locked in position to advance or retarded the ignition. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Dear Thierry and John, thank you very much for your answers. Thierry, you are right (as usual) and I'm gonna reduce that shine. About the heating, I had thought but a bit afraid to burn the PVC. Anyway, it's a good idea, I'll just take care... John, I don't find in the instruction sheet this part (neither on 16th, neither on 17th). Can you tell me on which step it is, please? even if I don't use it (you said it is not very good), I 'd like to see it. Do you know if there is another picture with this lever? It would be helpful to reproduce it more easily, because on this plan... All the best Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Olivier de St Raph said: Thierry, you are right (as usual) and I'm gonna reduce that shine. About the heating, I had thought but a bit afraid to burn the PVC. Anyway, it's a good idea, I'll just take care... Olivier Can use a hair dryer rather than heat gun And overall, make a template before, using, for instance copper wire, that is very soft, and easy to bend, and can be shaped several tmes... Even if you must throw it in the trash after these tortures, it's really a little sacrifice for so precious help ! Edited October 21, 2016 by CrazyCrank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Thanks again, Thierry, very good hints one more time 👍 I didn't think to use the hairdryer, more safe... And I have better understood for the template. Good idea too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 4 hours ago, vontrips said: The lever part is in the kit - though it's not very good. The part you made for the steering wheel would have notches so the lever could be rotated and locked in position to advance or retarded the ignition. Hello John, I think I found the part, it is the 65E, but they forgot to mention it in the instruction sheet... however, I did not understand very well the 2nd part of your comment "the part you made would have notches...". Can you explain me please? Kind regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcruiser Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) Like this Olivier: This is a 1916 Locomobile, but the principle is the same. To stop the levers moving they would be on a ratchet type arrangement and the levers moved across them to lock into position/stop them slipping. Edited October 21, 2016 by ptcruiser 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Wow Rich, what an enlargement, thank you!! Do you think the lever was the same (approximately) on the 806? Indeed, it looks very different from the 65E part. Anyway, very useful photo... Do you know on what car this photo was taken? All the best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcruiser Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) I found this on the US IPMS web page , a full build is provided there if you haven't found it. http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/fiat-806-grand-prix-part-2 The above pic shows the steering wheel arrangement in the kit. No the steering wheel ought not to be wooden and the body colour is "interesting" but that's not we're discussing here.... Rich Edited October 21, 2016 by ptcruiser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Yes Rich, CC had found this article on US IPMS, and you will notice the modeller made tubes for ignition wiring. But in the same time, he kept the very thick diameter for the wires,, so that we couldn't consider he was certainly right (see comments above about this). There are other approximents on the kit, as for example the wooden steering wheel, so that we can't consider this as a reference. Meanwhile, I had tried to come into contact with the modeler (message) and I didn't get any answer. Furthermore, who could tell me what is the 122D part?Is there a relation between this part and the ignition lever? This detail intrigues me since the beginning... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcruiser Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) I think #122 would be described in the UK has a fiddle knob or steering knob. Usually found on heavier equipment or where the driver has difficulty steering which is why I always thought it strange on a race car. Like this: Edited October 21, 2016 by ptcruiser 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Wow bravo Rich, very interesting and surely right. I agree with you, it's curious to find such a knob on a race car. I wonder if I will put it on my steering wheel. Does someone else has a point of view on this? We are all Lt Columbo with this kit, it is a real challenge, but all together, we shall overcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) Ok, we have this picture that shows the knob, the lever and the hub in the middle of the steering wheel (64E). So, if we consider this document as a reference: 1) the knob was there 2) we can see exactly how was the lever 3) the hub is exactly how VT made it (mine is wrong ) Saying that the model making is a great school of observation... Edited October 22, 2016 by Olivier de St Raph improve translate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 That's the photo I used for reference Olivier! Sorry, I thought it was in this thread somewhere, but can't find it. I scanned it from the original Protar build manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 The same with enlargement: notice that the clear part (1CF on the kit) is not... so clear (on this doc, no airbrushing argument). It looks very thin and cloudy). The frame 54E is too thick and wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 You don't have to apologize, John, it's my fault, I had this picture in my library (among many others..) As I just said, I always fight against myself not to consider anything as true without checking. I didn't remember this picture, it is the best doc (and probably the only one) we have about the steering wheel and details. I 'll have to change my steering wheel consequently... Pity, I liked it as it was... Demanding model making is merciless! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcruiser Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 I think the notches in the #54E are to accommodate the limitations of the model moulding rather than to be proto-typically correct Olivier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) Yes, you're right Olivier, and note the missing gauge! I intend to turn the ring on the lathe, rather than use wire. Not looking forward to that - which is why I've avoided it so far! 8$ Note also the ring is a mm or two larger in diameter than the kit part! Edited October 21, 2016 by vontrips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 4 minutes ago, vontrips said: the missing gauge What do you mean? what missing gauge? don't see... 4 minutes ago, vontrips said: Not looking forward to that - which is why I've avoided it so far! 8$ sorry, didn't understand that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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