Jump to content

Fiat 806 -"Gangshow"- build album.


Recommended Posts

Thank you guys for your compliments and encouragements!

I thought my X-11 Tamiya was a bit too matt and too light. I have improved the state of surface and applied first a light coat of X-1 as a gloss black base (thinned with X-20) and then Alclad Stainless Steel. I think I prefer it like that, it is more realistic for a radiator grille of 1927...

Olivier

IMG_1517_zps2rrmlont.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

Thank you guys for your compliments and encouragements!

I thought my X-11 Tamiya was a bit too matt and too light. I have improved the state of surface and applied first a light coat of X-1 as a gloss black base (thinned with X-20) and then Alclad Stainless Steel. I think I prefer it like that, it is more realistic for a radiator grille of 1927...

Olivier

IMG_1517_zps2rrmlont.jpg

 

Beau boulot Olivier..... Stunning work... 

Pour augmenter le réalisme il ne manque plus que quelques cadavres d'insectes coincés sur la grille ^_^ car réellement je ne vois pas comment faire mieux ! B)

To enhance realism,  you should add some bugs cadavers on the grill ^_^,  because,  really,  don't see how to better  it B)

Je me permettrai de m'inspirer de ton fabuleux travail quand je monterai ce kit :worthy:

I'll take inspiration of your amazing work when mounting this kit

Cordialement... Regards

Thierry 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Sam, hello Thierry, hello to all,

 

thanks for your very kind feedback. Sam, to be honest, I did not do any weathering yet (I will just do a little one on the screws with a black Vallejo acrylic wash), it's the Alclad stainless steel that gives this patina effect (without buffing). Good question you ask about the stage: I don't want my Fiat to be too clean and bright, and, in the same time, even if I am amazed by Andi's work (a great artist, for sure, who proves model making is a full art), if you consider this car had a short life (what a crazy, this Agnelli !), it is not logical to make a hard weathering (except if really, Andi's grandfather got the car and kept hidden in his garden, as suggested previously :D. Let's say I make the car at the end of the race, with a bit used tyres and a light weathering. About that, I love on the box-art the little impacts on the body, very realistic. I suppose it's also Photoshop, but I would like to do it, with care...

Thierry, no problem, if you have a question about anything, we are here to share. You must know (I ever said that) it is a long work to remove all the strips and make new ones made with Aber 0,4mm steel rods (ordered on Oupsmodel). But I consider the radiator grille very important because, with no lights on the car, the look focuses on it.

All the best guys

Olivier

P.S: I am writing an article for Tamiya Model Magazine on the Fiat, but it will not be published until 6 months, at least.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_1521_zpsruwp12w6.jpgIMG_1522_zpsmybmq2jp.jpg

 

Hello guys,

My engine is going on slowly. The 30E piece can't go into the holes where they should. So the gaps must me plugged (plastic card) before cementing 30E. I must improve this 30E piece (red arrow shows it needs grinding a bit more). The instructions recommend to paint 30E flat black, but no one, on all engines I saw, followed that. My 30E is a bit too smooth, to my point of view, I will problably change and do the same technic than for the rest of the engine (see above). The green arrow shows ejection marks that don't need to be removed, because they will be hidden (except the one at right) by 26 and 27E.  On the 12 stage, there is a mistake, the 117 piece is D and not E.

As Andi did on his amazing engine, I will certainly choose copper and not brass to paint 44E, 26 and 27E, 28 and 29E and 32E, more realistic for such pieces.

I am still wondering if I keep the kit's wheels, or if I re-spoke... If I do, I will certainly do that with Aber 0,4mm rods as I did with the grille, and not as Andi did (I would prefer but don't feel able at this time). We will see...

P.S: the brass plug is made from Italeri photo etched brass foil with 2mm die... it looks better than the plastic one of the kit...

Any suggestion welcome

Looking forward to read you and see your works going on...

Olivier

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Magnificent work throughout Olivier.  

 

This Alclad stainless steel shine effect without buffing is truly amazing.

Alclad is raising the game again, but the others are getting equally good; Vallejo, AK, Mr Metal and the Tamiya even... amazing... but i find all their primers irregular and need to have been very freshly produced to be effective. 

 

How will you close these holes 'à colmater' ?

 

Yes crazy Agnelli... pity.  

 

Your chosen stage seems very realistic and your rendering of the 'grille' augurs for some incredible finish. 

Edited by sharknose156
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Sam, hello to all,

 

I have used 0,25mm plastic card to fill the gaps (a bit visible on the photo but I suppose it won't be at the end). I have changed the finish of the 30E piece, but not sure I prefer it like that (maybe a bit too light...) What do you think?

Olivier

IMG_1529_zpspzltaojr.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Sam ;) but I didn't wait and have applied a coat of Stainless Steel Alclad on 30E (not as bright as the grille). I am also improving the gap closing. I was not happy with it, the plastic card was visible, I have removed it and will put 0,13 mm (thinner) instead of 0,25, and the little strips of plastic card will not stop in the middle: I made 6 strips of 5,8mm x 2mm, painted like the engine, and then cut and cement on the gaps. Pics in the next topic...

Olivier

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_1530_zpsmexgkaxk.jpgIMG_1532_zpszafxt0px.jpgIMG_1533_zpsv9dvugp7.jpg

 

Hello to all (?), Hello Sam,

 

here are the pics promised... The 30E piece is now a bit darker and brighter than the previous version, I prefer it like that. I have changed the plastic cards as I said, these ones are more discreet. There is a delicate stage on 11 step, when you must cement the 87C piece on the engine, and in the same time introduce G, H and I in their spurs. But above all, there is not a good matching on the engine (see red arrows on photo 2)... 

Olivier

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting this 87C. Also, now that i have the instruction sheet in my hand, it is the first time i notice Andy's clever and original solution. 

 

Thank you Olivier for taking the trouble to place the arrows. 

 

in any case, since i have not started this car yet and reached this bridge, i can not offer a learned opinion. 

I can only see as far as my eye can see ( not very far ) as to what solution i will find when my turn comes to solve this problem... But am guessing VT will switch his lathe on.

 

Wonder where the rest of the gang is in their builds.:clap: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Olivier, before you make a final decision on how you want to represent those cylinder head ends ... you might want to take a look at this detailed drawing of the parts in question. When reading this drawing it makes far more sense mechanically than when trying to interpret Italeri's rendition as seen on the model. Of course, it's your choice - and of course, the part is heavily buried into the build when completed. But, as can be seen, I went for the engineering solution in the end and was happier for it ... it just sort of soothed a jangled nerve that the kit left me with.

                                                      406engine-545_zpsmwynnqbf.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Sam, Andi and all,

happy to see Andi is stiil with us. Thanks Andi for this document (I got it but forgot to read it once it brings useful informations. Unfortunately, you often use english expressions that my translator (and me !) don't understand. For exemple,  for "the part is heavily buried into the build when completed" or "it just sort of soothed a jangled nerve that the kit left me with", if you could see the french translation with Reverso, you would understand what I mean... I understand this forum is mainly english, but I regret to lose a good part of your interesting comments... Anyway, you seem to have very good skills on mechanics, what I don't have unfortunately. 

But I will do my best to get a correct reproduction of these cylinder head ends...

At what stage are you now? 

Sam, who is VT? Vontrips??

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"the part is heavily buried into the build when completed" .................. This just means - when the kit is assembled, that part is hard to see.

 

"it just sort of soothed a jangled nerve that the kit left me with" .......... And this simply means - the part was inaccurate and I was happy to correct it.

 

I'm sorry that my explanations sometimes slip into the vernacular, but your English is much better than my French (typical Englishman) ... I will try to do better!

Regards my current state of build - really I'm just tying up all the loose ends in the engine bay before moving on to the fuel tank and rear axle, and then the body can be fixed on which will be a watershed moment.

 

 

If you don't catch anything I'm/we're saying just shout out and we'll gladly try an alternative explanation

 

Cheers for now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello guys,

I made corrections on the cylinders head ends (87C) by subtraction (blade) and by adding dental lightcuring flowable composite resin (layer by layer) and now, I consider the problem fixed. However, I will try to add little details using the document Andi posted.

A hint: wait the end of 13th step to cement the gearbox, because the rod is very thin and fragile, and the numerous manipulations (for example when you must insert PVC tubes on 26 and 27E cemented on the engine) require strenght that could easily break that piece (I speak about it with full knowledge of the facts...)

 

Have a nice evening

 

Olivier

40%20Apregraves%20rectification%20des%20

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great work Olivier.  

 

Am so glad Andi is back and active on the thread. He was so well inspired to start this topic and give it his own style and values ! 

 

Olivier, you will find Andi and most of the gangshow-team speak a beautiful english vocabular and phrasing.

Unfortunately you do not hear this often anymore, even in England.  

 

Hopefully, you will soon understand all of it, without using the robot. The charm and poetry of 'soothing a jangled nerve that the kit left me with' veut dire  "soulage un nerf maltraité/secoué que le Kit m'a laissé/causé". Traduction quasi-littéraire de sa phrase.

 

The robot will never understand this and translate it properly.

But you will, because the French vocabulary allows for elegant oblique phrase constructions to make a point. With built in derision and irony.

 

Yes VT is Von Trips, the passionate expert in metals. He suddenly appears and then disappears, like Batman.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking real good Oliver. Love the cast metal look on the engine. 

 

The AK metal waxes over a layer of surfacer is also able to achieve a similar look. This is for those who are not so keen on airbrushing metallics.

 

Regards,

Jeremy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all, thank you for your compliments and encouragements.

Sam, if you knew how I regret not to have a better English to understand perfectly all the pics!

I am a lover of nice language (in french) but I couldn't notice how Andi's speaking was so poetic (he has many talents, definitely!).

I look forward to see new photos of Andi or everyone's building.

I saw your Mefisto floor, it is great, so natural... What are you making at this time?

A question about the cables going to the engine: what colour are they, do you have an idea? I don't think I'll use Italeri's cables, not very realistic...

Andi, could you join photos of your engine finished in détails, please?

All the best to all

Olivier

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Olivier, that engine is looking great! I like the cast effect you've achieved. I used to be able to get this effect by airbrushing at a distance at low pressure but can't achieve it today! I have no idea why, apart from modern metallic paints may be smoother?

 

For a visual guide for the plug leads, check out my photo near the bottom of page two. I can't guarantee the accuracy of that reference but I believe it to be the Fiat 6 cylinder engine...basically half this engine. To me, the wires appear to be black; not very exciting I know! You could always get away with red, as red often appeares black in old monochrome film types.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello VT,

the good cast effect on the engine is very easy to get: I apply first XF1 acrylic and then XF16 ENAMEL (this one is difficult to find but you get it on Amazon marketplace, from Hong Kong and it is very good). I always work at 1 bar max with my Harder and Steenbeck airbrushes. The coat of XF16 is very light, to get the cast effect.

About the plug leads, I fell on an old article of the french magazine MPM (Maquette Plastique Magazine) about the Protar kit, published in 1981, in which the author seems to be very sure that they are red, but I don't know how he was so sure. In the doubt, In the doubt, I think I will do them flat red (electric wire)...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here you go then Olivier .... perhaps a bit premature? But some close ups of the engine and its installation ..............................

 

806-62_zpsmwfhg4gi.jpg

 

 

806-59_zpsrkdri4ng.jpg

 

 

806-60_zps7odsomrd.jpg

 

 

 

806-61_zps1cepf4jv.jpg

 

 

 

806-58_zpsouces5l5.jpg

 

 

And after all those merciless close-ups (all areas will continue to be "stitched" together so bits look a bit clumsy yet ) ... here's a more normal shot to give a bit of relative scale to the whole thing.

 

806-63_zpshl927sxe.jpg

 

 

Cheers all ............................................

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...