Banny Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Steve I made copious notes on the day (maybe should have videoed it as well!) - but know what you mean. My excuse for procrastination (I got an O level English Language) is that I'm a virgin scratch builder so applying saw to plastic is a bit nerve racking! VT Thanks for the plug info - my prototype is not a million miles off (maybe a thousand). I'm having trouble loading photos from my new upgraded phone, but once I get the missing driver you'll see my plug! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banny Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 OK - here's my attempt at uploading a couple of photos (can't believe I used to be an IT Manager!) First, my prototype plug. Construction is from a panel pin - head ground down with my dremel. The body is made from 2 x 1mm id O rings, sandwiching 1 x 2mm O Ring; the rest is made up of 1 outer piece of cable sheath, with a smaller dia sheath inserted only half way up (this gives a slight conical shape, although it's not clear on this pathetic photo). I then gave it 3 light coats of white primer. I'll now refine it into a 'finished' assembly. At the moment it looks in scale. I'll get a better idea when I have a full set. Next, my floor. Once again the picture quality is pretty c**p. But you can (just about) make out the 'planking effect' I used some maple strips from Hobbies - cost me about £2,75 for 4 x 1 meter strips - enough another 3 806's. I mounted the strips on the brass pe floor as the wood is quite fragile (you can see a couple of small missing pieces. I think I'll replace these as I lay the floor. Andi/Steve - I will get back to wheel lacing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Banny your planks look like the real deal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Yep, best I can tell that floor looks fine, like it a bit darker too. I of course shall chuck oil and muck and all sorts down there - hopefully it will cover a multitude of sins. Regards the lacing - in your own sweet time, that's the idea of this modelling malarkey, although Steve's right, the longer you leave it the harder it's going to become. Also remember that if you decide to go down the OOB route that's OK too - it makes for a fine model just with some judicious building. Just because I'm a glutton for punishment, and I've been badgering Steve for about fifteen years that it was about time he "manned up" .................. doesn't mean you have to, too! ... ... ........................ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banny Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Andi, unfortunately, the quality of the photo belies the fact that the floor is substantially lighter in colour, but it still looks nice. I started off thinking I'd build oob, but you guys have given so much inspiration. The trick is only tackling things within my limits (of skill and tool resources). At the end of the day, as we have all said, it's about enjoyment - and I'm really enjoying this build (even though quality is a pain). Onwards and upwards! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 OK then just a quick pictorial as to how I replaced the moulded louvres with some open ones........................ This is the first attempt so as ever it's a bit rough around the edges, but I'm sure by the time I get to the last they'll be a lot quicker and neater .............. hence why this was done on the "B" side (left). ........................ here go then ....................... And finally cleaned up with a bit of fettling etc. ..................... Apologies for the picture heavy content .... but I've discovered in this process that a picture really is worth a thousand words, hopefully it's all pretty self explanatory? .... But I'll try and highlight my thinking for anyone that has questions? Actually what can't be appreciated from the pic's (which are as ever merciless) is the strong arc across the louvre from the body panel - this is awkward and will cause some consternation I'm sure! Cheers all. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Nice work Andi! I'm going to try and fettle out the holes in the kit part...bad idea in the making! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Nice work Andi! I'm going to try and fettle out the holes in the kit part...bad idea in the making! I think it might just be a case of "two sides of the same circle" - so burnt as scolded then. I did have to wrestle with this in truth, and a lot of my preplanning went straight out of the window once I'd made that first cut and there was no way back. Biggest mistake I think was not accommodating the curve of the bodywork enough, this meant those "bridges I'd put had to come out and much deeper ones used so I could file it back to the curve. The carving of the louvres themselves was pretty nerve racking as it's a lot of effort lost if you bugger it up, but as you work your confidence grows and it becomes easier. TOP TIP ......................... assemble this with Cyno' ............. any kind of solvent just leaves it all soggy and it's impossible to crack on, you're committed to waiting for heaven knows how long and it'll still be too soft to work with. I learnt this from making those spark plugs ... the Cyno' makes it all crunchy and workable 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 (edited) Good cyno tip Andi. I'm using it with microballons as a filler. Removes the oxygen which gives you a hard, yet still sandable filler in seconds...given up using modelling fillers! Tried the Green Stuff for the first time in ages. Gave it a few days to cure and still too soft to sand. Did you have any sink marks on the chassis rails? Mine have a shocker on each side under the engine mounting brackets! Edited April 14, 2016 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 No - persae. There is a little bit of a dint under the left rear one but seeing as it's on the B side I'm putting it down to the metal fatiguing from torsion twist. It's more of a soft undulation than a sink-hole so I let it go. Re the fillers I've just got into using the acrylic fillers, and must say I was pretty suspicious of them to start off with, but they do do a good job. Not as fast as Cyno', but infinitely more manageable and way quicker than the old two pack epoxy types - I think they all have there place. But if you haven't tried the Acrylics give 'em a go. I use Both "Deluxe and Vallejo". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Now here's a wizard wheeze if you've not seen it before ............................. ? Picture first explain after ...................... One of the toughest jobs in getting louvres to look right is consistency, so I employed this simple little tool. Basically four pieces of quarter round (1.5mm) when held together give you a rod of 3mm diameter - poke this down afore mentioned diameter tube, chuck into your lathe, drill, cordless, and sand down the end to a nice half sphere, turn it round and do the other end ... ta-dahh! In this example I've packed the other end with a 3mm tube and packed that with an appropriate sized rod, this means I can firm it up inside the tube so it's tight enough to stay put - but not that tight I can't alter how much it slides into the outer tube, hence it becomes a "depth gauge" so you can concentrate on getting your profile right. I've never had one spin in the tube but a short length of tape will more than hold it for all the turning you need to do. I love these little widgets - I've accumulated a bench full of the things, I really do enjoy a good gadget. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Genius! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Damn! Is there anything that you can't figure out?? You guys and Sam with his mefistofele is making me regret to take the plunge so soon. If not I'd have tons of references to add these extra details...sigh.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Yup - big fun going on here! Great contribution by all. Valuable for many big-scale projects. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 (edited) Hello Andi, great work your little surgery ! Then i see the primer is on, .... so soon we will see the color you have chosen.... also, as a true artist and photographer you have chosen the B and A sides ! Thank you for the clever tips on the quarter rounds ... amazing... as Jeremy said; is there anything you don't have an answer for ? Please keep those clever tips coming ! warm regards to all, from a beautiful and rainy Lausanne ( so great time for benchwork ) Edited April 15, 2016 by sharknose156 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Super progress Andi. I think the louvres you have done look really good, it is part of the build that I haven't been looking forward to. I admit to having mixed feelings on opening them up at all, we shall see. The simple but effective louvre forming tool is typical of you (I don't mean simple) A completely logical way of making consistent sized parts based on thinking about what the material is you are working with. Quadrant = 1/4 circle = x4 = 3mm diameter = 3mm id tube to hold them in. I can just see your little face light up when you did this !! (teasing) Genius idea, absolutely. Just been looking at the rear louvres, by heck, the plastic is really quite thick around the bottom end Banny, nice progress also. The wood looks well, I suppose there is no substitute for the real thing. The spark plugs look great, I expect we will see several different designs as the builds open out. Keep up the good work gents. Atb, Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 I have been making some slow progress on my build. Confession time, I am also building the new Airfix 1/48 Meteor F.8 I have been really looking forward to it coming out. Anyway, the motor is taking shape unfortunately this pic doesn't really show the subtle shade differences in the metallic finishes I used. All 12 spark plugs are now done. These are in the raw state but I have just painted the ceramic part in Humbrol gloss white. They are simply hex bar and plastic tube over a florist wire central core. I also have a simple and similar approach to the air valve stems. Smaller dia hex rod with a blob of white glue to form the cap. I think the latter will change as a 'blob' is not going to cut it in 1/12 scale. I'm venturing back into the loft tomorrow to see how the red I have used on the chassis looks in natural light. I think it will be too light and I may have to change the red or use red primer instead. Onwards and upwards.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 I'll bet you're pleased those plugs are done (looking good by the way) ... There seems to be a lot more than twelve when you're making them doesn't there? On the FIF scale mine felt like a 5 for a 7/8, but then again it may be one of those items that you don't give credit for but very noticeable when they're gone? Not at all surprised to hear you've been tarting about with an aircraft build;- it is a cracking kit though and must admit one has made it into my stash too. Bad news ................ I have to be honest, that tyre valve, it looks a bit clunky ........... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 I have to agree Andi. I have set one in place on the wheel and it looks awful, probably more so than the kit part. I am going to the VSCC 'Spring Start' at Silverstone next week and will make a point of getting some photos of tyre valves from some early racers. Until then the couple I have made are bin fodder, lol Is it just me or does anyone else get annoyed when the PC underlines the word TYRE to tell you it is spelled incorrectly? Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banny Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 As usual, I'm in awe! Steve - please don't use language like "really quite thick around the bottom end", it reminds me that I must get back on a diet! Tomorrow is S Day - saw to plastic wheels day. I'll have 3 Weetabix to give me strength. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 What's interesting is that I had typed another word which means basically the same thing but begins with a and ends in double ss. The expletive filter did away with it in no time at all, lol Good luck with the wheels Banny, keep a close eye on your first cuts and take it steady, you will soon get used to it. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 Minor success, a little tribulation and a disastrous realisation! Firstly apologies if it feels like I'm photo-bombing the thread ... but this is kind of important if you stick with it? Firstly though, a minor success and a little fore warning................. Firstly the cut into the tail ready to attempt the louvres ........... Secondly - NOT for the faint hearted - you are fore warned there is some serious meat in here which throws up all manner of issues and problems. But with a little perseverance and some luck (not something I'm known for actually) one can make a job of it .............. This is a much neater method, and this fresh from under the files. No fettling yet so it bodes well - much happier with this! MUCH neater ... and much happier too. ........................ other way....................... NOW spot the horror ............................ And the reason why?........................................ ANYONE .......................................... ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfadvance Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Looks like you have put them on back to front Andi If. I am right can I suggest you consider using triangular strip rather than the quarter round .....nth ink it will give you a better look as it's easier to flare into the bodywork Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Sadly that does appear to be the case. Looking at the picture, two up from the older reference of your body, you can see the molded set going forward and your replacement facing rearward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Good spot Andi bloke!! Protar had those louvres in entirely the wrong place. Must admit, I wonder why mistakes like this occur when there is obvious photo evidence of the correct position? Steve. P.S. photo bombing from your workbench is positively de rigueur !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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