Codger Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Superb work and advice VT... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 As VT says don't be put off by these cheap Chinese lathes, they are perfect for this type of work, yes they need a bit of setting up, but give ample tolerances for what we require.Just have a look at what VT has done to improve the kits parts. Don't be be put off by it has to be a Myford brigade. And VT it makes total sense to me working as you have shown, whats better than seeing where your going than where your coming from 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) Gentlemen hello, From the other side of the Channel and far beyond, it is a real pleasure to read about your challenges and solutions. British engineering in full action ! The spirit of those champions who made Bentleys, Rolls Royce engines & cars, Purdeys, etc. live with you. Bill Boddy would be proud. vontrips, amazing results with the tyres and drums. (and excellent photography) i hope you can show us more pics of your turning activities. Hope you get this mini blaster out soon ! Little Andi and Jeremy, looking forward to more photos of your progress. If this car is in a museum somewhere, we should get someone to send us photos. Does anyone know anything about this car being exposed somewhere ? If so i volunteer to contact the museum etc.. and also MotorSport perhaps. Edited January 31, 2016 by sharknose156 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Unfortunately as far as I know the cars were destroyed by Fiat after their success at racing for some reason. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Does anyone plan to tackle the hinge on the hoods? Looking at the photos and some build (not on this forum), some modifications are done so that the hinge doesn't protrude out as much. But i think it will require major modification to do so? Another question. Is it possible to mask to airbrush the numbers on the hood? It doesn't look like it's gonna be easy. Decals would be tough too on the parts where the numbers are supposed to go. Regards, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Does anyone plan to tackle the hinge on the hoods? Looking at the photos and some build (not on this forum), some modifications are done so that the hinge doesn't protrude out as much. But i think it will require major modification to do so? Another question. Is it possible to mask to airbrush the numbers on the hood? It doesn't look like it's gonna be easy. Decals would be tough too on the parts where the numbers are supposed to go. Regards, Jeremy A common trick for Pocher RR builders is to 'sink' the hinge even or below the hood top. Done by adding styrene strip of the desired 'sink' to the hood under sides. Then attach the hinge to that. Don't know if that would apply to this hood design.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 A common trick for Pocher RR builders is to 'sink' the hinge even or below the hood top. Done by adding styrene strip of the desired 'sink' to the hood under sides. Then attach the hinge to that. Don't know if that would apply to this hood design.... I don't know whether it would yet myself as I'm "still lacing wheels" and people keep on coming up with distracting stuff ................. BUT, what a great little wriggle that is - so many thanks for posting that one, I'll be sure to offer it up as a solution when I gets to that bit. Cheers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 BTW.... love your wheels. It's almost exactly the same way I make mine. Trying to convince the good souls on the forum that it isn't difficult once you have a go, is hard. All credit to you for yours though. They look great. Roy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Thanks for the tips Jeremy! Sounds like you're deep into the build!? Not sure I'm going to add the exhaust tips, because they look a little clumsy, plus I can't see them in any pics! Just realised I saved some pics from your excellent Mefistofele build; do you have the WIP link? It would be good to have it on here! ;-) Hi Vontrips, Sorry, i do not have any WIP for my Mefistofele build. It was build over quite a long time, 5 to 6 months. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have on the Mefistofele. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 A quick pic' to show what we're talking about - look at the steering arm just inside the front wheel (farside) and appearing just in front of the radiator. In this pic' it actually looks for all the world "crescent" shaped. But regardless it's definitely NOT straight ..... I can see this is going to be one of those if it looks right it is right situations!! Looking at this photo, the hinge does protrude out. It's just that the one on the kit is way oversized. I guess Protar did not have a choice since it needed to accommodate a metal rod that is thick enough to support the weight of the hoods. If the kit's hing is to be replaced, i don't think it's possible to make it workable, not with my skills. Regards, Jeremy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Hi, Some updates. The "leather" of the steering wheel was done using masking tape, painted in mix of grey and semi-gloss black. Had to replace the original rivets with some resin ones. The original ones were flat, i preferred some domed ones. Sorry for the poor quality pics. I am only able to take the pics using my handphone. Regards, Jeremy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 That's coming along very nicely Jeremy! Afraid I've not looked at the hinge issue yet, but it needs replacing with something smaller for sure. It doesn't need to be fully functioning and I be tempted to fake it like the kit. I'd look at an alloy tube with lines scored in. Get a larger tube cut down to the correct hinge finger length (minus a bladewidth) and use it as a guide for rolling the blade over to make the line. Pass the outer tube along until the scribed line appears at the other end and score again...hey presto! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Coming along strong Jeremy ... nice clean build with lots of "pop" as they say. Despite your initial worries this is going to hold its own on any shelf. Well done and thanks for posting - always a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) Jeremy, looking very good and neat. This one will take you much less time than the Mephisto. Am enjoying my M. build as you said. Have just been using the AK interactive metal waxes for the small parts of the engine and their xtreme metal line for spraying the larger parts... amazing, personally i think the results are very realistic...better even than Alclad. The spaniards seem to have made some leaps in metal pigments for scale modeling. Edited February 1, 2016 by sharknose156 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) Jeremy, looking very good and neat. This one will take you much less time than the Mephisto. Am enjoying my M. build as you said. Have just been using the AK interactive metal waxes for the small parts of the engine and their xtreme metal line for spraying the larger parts... amazing, personally i think the results are very realistic...better even than Alclad. The spaniards seem to have made some leaps in metal pigments for scale modeling. You can't leave us like that in suspense! I demand pictures! Seriously though, I've been considering the waxes after hearing good things...I'd love to see how they look on automotive stuff!Meanwhile, after singing the praises of my old lathe; the forward/reverse switch has just failed on me, LOL! Don't suppose you know of any Schaublin's going cheap over there?! ;-) Edited February 1, 2016 by vontrips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I have used a few of the waxes. They are good for small parts. They smell very nice too! Main problem would be that they are very messy to work with. I probably had a bad batch in the brass wax. It refuses to go on smoothly via brush. It's unlikely that it was my application problem, since the other colours went on fine. I was told that they can be thinned for airbrushing, but it's something I dare not try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Trying to convince the good souls on the forum that it isn't difficult once you have a go, is hard. I suspect a lot of us would love to have a go at one of these beautiful models, but just don't have the space either to build or to display it......Ma Squarehead would take a very dim view of me spreading giant kit bits all over her dining room table, it really wouldn't end well at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbly Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I have used a few of the waxes. They are good for small parts. They smell very nice too! Main problem would be that they are very messy to work with. I probably had a bad batch in the brass wax. It refuses to go on smoothly via brush. It's unlikely that it was my application problem, since the other colours went on fine. I was told that they can be thinned for airbrushing, but it's something I dare not try. They can be thinned with white spirit and airbrushed, or painted. My tube of aluminium is the same, quite lumpy out of the tube but better when thinned a little. Anyone have a preference on setting them once polished, as they don't fix? I have tried Humbrol clear cote and Tamiya Satin, not yet found the winner. Cheers Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 They can be thinned with white spirit and airbrushed, or painted. My tube of aluminium is the same, quite lumpy out of the tube but better when thinned a little. Anyone have a preference on setting them once polished, as they don't fix? I have tried Humbrol clear cote and Tamiya Satin, not yet found the winner. Cheers Tony Tony, I thinned them with white spirit. Some parts i polished, but others were not. After a few days, they stayed on quite well so there wasn't the need to coat it. I applied the waxes using cotton buds. Preferably the better quality ones so that the cotton fibers do not come loose. Regards, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Metallic paint waxes from AK : if the dilution with white spirit is right, and the brush is made with natural hair, like sable, then the outcome is excellent. Personally i try to use only AK white spirit to be sure the pigments dilute as finely as possible. i tried airbrushing after white spirit dilution, no problems at all. There are lots of small clips on youtube demonstrating the ease of use and excellent results: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=true+metal+from+ak Tony ; you don t need to coat it with clear unless you want to weather it. then i would suggest a varnish from the same brand. vontrips ; will post pictures of the build on a separate thread when i finish the engine. best to all 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) Engine turning test piece for the dash: Been wanting to try this for years...still not happy with it. Edited February 3, 2016 by vontrips 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Vontrips, You are seriously going downtown with this build. Can't wait to see the end product! Jeremy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 vontrips great work ! am seriously considering a small lathe. for the dashboard turned polished aluminium ( corked aluminium; "aluminium bouchonné" in french, i think started by Bugatti ): i saw a nice technique on another car ; you take the head of a small screw, on to which you glue a strong and abrasive polish paper ( i.e for wood ) and you place it on a dremel and turn circles onto the plastic, side by side. the bigger the screw, the bigger the circles. https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=6522&hilit=BENTLEY+Bentley+1+12&sid=efa50e8e6a596aaaca9a1fa21a552867&start=260 if you look at the whole build report, you will be amazed hope this helps 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 A circle of 1000 grit (size and grit your choice) glued in a long pencil's eraser makes excellent turns. Vary pressure, overlap slightly. I know, you wanna use your lathe... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Cheers guys! Tried a few techniques yesterday; including wet and dry (and Garyflex rubber) on the end of a flat ground drill bit ends. Couldn't find the consistancy I needed though, as the paper and rubber wears. Not helped by me trying to keep the circles to a tiny scale 1.5mm diameter! Will persevere with the fluted mill cutter but with less depth of cut next time. Think my test piece material is also too hard as it appears to have an anodized type surface...can't find my better stuff right now and had issues getting a swirl pattern. Mill needs dialling in and setting up properly too. Meanwhile, my new lathe toggle switch has arrived and now soldered on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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