CedB Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Finally some small progress to report. I've been Proverbs 26:11 for the last few days, doing a bit and then either messing up or losing patience. Weird. Anyway, the internals are now ready for spraying, including the strange clear part that I guess is supposed to be a periscope. Although the instructions say to paint it dust / anthracite grey it doesn't really show (clearly) which bits NOT to paint. I'm also guessing the idea is to leave the 'lens' clear and some part of the middle bit. I can't be bothered to mask so I'm going to rub the paint off so I can gauge the effect (famous last words). Eh? by Ced Bufton, on Flickr As per Reserve's recommendations I'll be doing the cockpit Rlm02 and instrumental panel Rlm66, the latter probably hand-brushed. And then LOTS of detailing! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrlx Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Nice to see progress again, Ced. Regarding interior colours I would paint it all RLM 66, as this colour was adopted for fighter cockpits in 1941 and this aircraft would have flown in 1945 or '46. Cheers Jaime 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 The clear part is definitely a periscope used by the gunner for the remotely controlled gun turrets and just the flat lens should be left clear. I would have thought masking it would be a safer and easier bet than trying to remove the paint. If you recall there was a very similar part on my Ar 555: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Nice to see you getting some traction on this ced! Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Nice to see progress again, Ced. Regarding interior colours I would paint it all RLM 66, as this colour was adopted for fighter cockpits in 1941 and this aircraft would have flown in 1945 or '46. Cheers Jaime Thanks Jaime You're right, of course, but sadly I'd painted the bits before I read your post. The clear part is definitely a periscope used by the gunner for the remotely controlled gun turrets and just the flat lens should be left clear. I would have thought masking it would be a safer and easier bet than trying to remove the paint. If you recall there was a very similar part on my Ar 555: Thanks Nigel I remember the Ar 555 with fondness! I'll mask up the lens; but did you leave anything on the shaft clear? I might leave a little square 'viewport' just for the heck of it. Nice to see you getting some traction on this ced! Rob Thanks Rob I thought I'd try the undercoat / sand off top coat so I applied some Vallejo Model gloss black to some random parts: Black base by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Sorry about the focus but you get the idea. After some hours I sprayed the top coat and then tried to rub it off in places: Too soon? by Ced Bufton, on Flickr It worked OK on the switch panel (which I'm happy with) but in other areas I just rubbed the paint off - like on the throttles. I'll have another go tomorrow. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrlx Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Hi Ced, For your idea to work better, I'd suggest applying a chipping fluid over the paint used for the undercoat. I do it for proper chipping (with a metal paint as undercoat) but it would work with any combination of paint layers. Just do the chipping/rubbing before applying any varnish. Cheers Jaime 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Are you planning to open the canopy Ced? If not, you could just repaint it RLM 66 with just a representation of the instruments and some random spots of colour for the switches, as it's 1/72 scale. Regards John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 Thanks Jaime Must put chipping fluid on the shopping list - what do you use? Thanks John Canopy closed (going on the ceiling as usual). Random dots applied (see below) There have been lots of posts on 'why bother with interiors' on BM and I've decided I do it because I enjoy it! So there! The instructions say you should apply transfers to the panels: Transfer details by Ced Bufton, on Flickr They're alright I suppose but I just couldn't bring myself to sand down all that great detail. It then also became obvious that the transfers didn't match the moulded detail so I couldn't even use them as a guide. Great, I can use my imagination! I started by putting drops of thinned H33 into the dials and then went crazy with a very fine brush and the pens: Enough! by Ced Bufton, on Flickr The two 'radar screens' are transfers - I couldn't replicate those - but I'm happy enough with the rest. On to assembly and close up! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beard Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 That interior looks great, Ced. I'd say that your mojo has returned. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 Thanks Simon I'd forgotten to do the harnesses and pedals. Linen enamel so I'll leave it to dry overnight: Harnesses by Ced Bufton, on Flickr 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 That is a nicely detail kit isn't it. Good work with use of random dots of colour ced, it's worked a treat!! Also well done on painting the seat belts. Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 This is coming along nicely! Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrlx Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Great detail work on the cockpit, Ced! Regarding the chipping fluid, I've been using AMMO Mig's light chipping fluid. There's also a version for heavier chipping, which I never used. Cheers Jaime 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 See, I told you so! Only joking, that's really good. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Thanks Rob It is a nicely detailed kit and I'm enjoying the fit, and lack of flash, so far! Thanks Martin, very kind Thanks Jaime, chipping fluid on the shopping list! Thanks John, although the detail's not as good as your (bigger) ones! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 This looks good. Wouldn't mind doing one as a bit of fun. The sky's the limit with camo schemes too. Eastern Front? Captured and with an 'Air Min' serial? A Watson's Wizard? Just wondering with all that extra weight would it have been under powered? Trevor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Nice detail painting, what are those pens you use? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Thanks Trevor Hmmm, Eastern front... tempting. But I think I'll stick with the standard colours I have. Hi Nigel I started with red and green Faber-Castell PITT pens but the green wasn't green enough so I switched to the Liquidex pens I've used before (firstly on the Brigand), applying the ink with 10/0 brush. Oh my poor old eyes! The white is thinned Vallejo Model Colour (not air) 70.820. I think I have my internal detailing toolkit sorted now, especially when the Mike Grant decals arrive! Some shots of the 'pit dry fitted. I'm not glueing the bulkhead or side panels in place before join up just in case: Dry fit by Ced Bufton, on Flickr and with the gunners seat and periscope fitted, the latter not glued so it wiggles into the canopy. How did he use that then? Hmmm. I've also removed part of the cockpit sides from the fuselage as indicated in the instructions and cut the holes in the fuselage for the rear gun barbettes: Holes by Ced Bufton, on Flickr They'll be covered by the parts so not too smooth. I'm out with the boys tonight but I've stopped work for Christmas so I'm expecting to get lots done! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrlx Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Hi Ced, The cockpit turned out beautifully, congrats! Cheers Jaime 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beard Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 and with the gunners seat and periscope fitted, the latter not glued so it wiggles into the canopy. How did he use that then? Hmmm. Either the gunner is a contortionist or the seat turns around. I prefer the former idea. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 Thanks Jaime Either the gunner is a contortionist or the seat turns around.I prefer the former idea. Thanks Simon Me too! Apologies for the delay in replying but I've been somewhat 'paralysed' by the next step: Hmmm by Ced Bufton, on Flickr You can see (I hope) the cannon, which has been painted with AK True Metal, and how it fits nicely to the barbette. You can also see here the 'Glue / don't glue' options and the 'don't glue' icon for part 60 (also in the picture on its back). This is nonsense. The barbette with gun fits really nicely to the outside of the fuselage but the inside is curved so part 60 doesn't hold the barbette against the fuselage. It also obviously needs to be glued as it doesn't push fit: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr My carefully considered solution (??!!) is to tack the barbette to the fuselage with latex glue until it's painted, then remove it, cut down part 60 so it pushes into the hole and glue it to the back, ensuring the gun still moves but nothing else does. Here it is during the glue drying: Latex glued by Ced Bufton, on Flickr That excess was easily rubbed off with a pointy stick (which is why I like the stuff for this sort of job). Now to fit the wheel bays and join up! The main one has a useful arrow on it, just like the instructions: Helpful by Ced Bufton, on Flickr 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Good idea on the temporary gluing of the gun barbette, that eliminates a tricky masking job on the gun 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Your aircraft interior work just keeps getting better Ced, and very clever plan with the turret. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Neat way of sorting out the rear turrent, you appear to be back in the swing of things now ced! Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bish Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 I'm another who has this in the stash, so nice to see one being built. Good progress so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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