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Gunze-Sangyo Hi-tech Ferrari GTO SWB


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I managed to start doing a little BMF on the window trim tonight and I need to finish tomorrow and fix a couple of small screw ups. It's not much as I've been pretty busy with the TR engine lately.

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I'm not sure about the BMF on this car, it looks too shiny to me. My original thought was to mask off the trim and shoot it in Alclad. We'll see

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  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't forgotten or abandoned this build. I did finish the bare metal foil on all of the window trim about a week ago. Ever since then, I've been looking at the body with the super shiny foil trim and I really don't like it. I'll post a picture tomorrow before I take it all off and mask the body and paint it in Alclad. The paint on the body is finished, the wheels are done and the grille is done and most of the under carriage painting is done with the exception of the front suspension. There are a few detail items to finish after the window trim is sorted out and then I can really just assemble it. Other than the PE work this kit isn't too difficult and I'm afraid that's why I haven't spent that much time on it. I'm going to finish it only because I started it here and I really don't like leaving things unfinished. With the other two large scale builds I have going with the Pochers, I need to spend my time equally between those two. Additionally, I have recently acquired two 1/12 scale MFH Ferraris' and I'd like to start one of them but either the Testarossa or the Mercedes needs to be done first. I think when I do get to them, it will be the 330 P4 build first as much as I'd like to build the 250 GTO, I think I'd better do the 330 first. The MFH wire wheels look a bit daunting and much more difficult than the Pocher wire wheels. Well, pictures tomorrow and a small bit of progress.

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Looking amazing you have a lovely sheen on that bodywork, I can understand the need for a quick diversion from a big build, this is coming along very nicely.

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I have the protar version of this kit with some herb deek wire wheels so this will be a good reference point for me. Love the red by the way it's not red red if you know what I mean it's like an old red that's got a hint of brown in it.

Shaun

P.s. I may be mistaken but did you just post on Facebook about the 330 and 250 mfh kits

Edited by shood23
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Thanks guys. Shaun, I think that I mentioned acquiring the MFH kits on my Merc post not Facebook. There seem to be a lot of different shades of red on Ferarris and I started noticing that in Cavalino magazine a few years back. I started getting a few different bottles of the Zero reds from Hiroboy back when I could get Zero paints from them here in the US. But, now I can't get Zero paints out of the U.K. any longer, or at least the last time I tried ordering, and I have to find another paint or see if I can get it from Spain or Australia. In any event, paying the shipping is almost cost prohibitive. On this car I used a light gray Tamiya primer and the Tamiya Italian red. The first couple of coats the color was a little dark and it wasn't until the last two coats did it get more red and look like what I wanted. I first sprayed this car a couple of years ago so, when I sanded and painted it again it was almost like the first coats were a primer and the color was better. As I've stated elsewhere, red, yellow and some oranges will be dramatically affected by the primer color. Since there are times when I will paint a body and set it aside for a while, I have started writing down what color primer is underneath and in addition to which color I sprayed I always make sure to note what type of paint I used I.e. Lacquer or enamel or acrylic. This all came about years ago when I was trying to match an orange on the hood of a hemi Cuda I painted and even though I thought I knew the body color, it just wasn't coming out the same color. It turned out to be the color primer I had used was affecting the new color on the hood. Sorry for the tangent but, now if I use an air brush to paint a Ferarri and I'm trying to get the exact color I've been going with my second choice for paint and using MCW paints if I don't have the Zero paint color. I sure miss being able to get the Zero paints. Well, I guess I'd better get busy and take some pictures and do some work on the cars.

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VT, I checked F1 and I didn't get any hits on an American seller of Zero paints. So, maybe somewhere else but, I'll ask the question. Like I said earlier I did finish all the BM foil and I really don't like the results. Maybe it's my application on the side widows that is putting me off on this. Today, I also discovered that I need to re-paint a couple of pieces of the rear springs and control arms so, I am going to wait and shoot them along with the front when I get ready to do that. Anyway, here are the pictures of the foil trim.

Before I foiled the windshield and left door

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After. I think the bright chrome foil looks out of scale for this car and a Ferrari in general; you tell me.

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Now that I look at it, it reminds of of chrome plating in a kit that is too chrome and just doesn't look correct. That, and my sloppy foil work, I never was very good at applying foil and keeping it in place. I also noticed that the BM foil didn't adhere very well to the paint.

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Message steve hemming from hiroboy as I am sure they just linked up with someone in the states to be a paint supplier I have seen it written somewhere can't remember if it was here or a Facebook group and thank you for the info oon the colours

Shaun

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Message steve hemming from hiroboy as I am sure they just linked up with someone in the states to be a paint supplier I have seen it written somewhere can't remember if it was here or a Facebook group and thank you for the info oon the colours

Shaun

I'm thinking they may have been in Florida...unless I'm having a senior moment! If I get time I'll give Steve a bell tomorrow.

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I just checked their website and indeed it does appear as though they are a US supplier for Zero paints. Thanks Shaun! And VT you are also correct, they are in Florida. It seems like more and more of the stuff I use is coming out of Florida. Maybe that's where all the old modelers go when they retire and open shop for all the other retired guys to get their supplies. Me, I live up on top of a mountain where there isn't anything but, Internet on most days.

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Yea, I will have to use a gloss black to get the chrome or shiny look. It won't be as shiny as the foil and that's not what I want anyway. Once I get the whole thing masked off I'm going to have to carefully sand the trim a bit so the detail doesn't get lost in layers of paint.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hiya larchiefeng :bye:

Love the SWB :thumbsup2:

Perhaps I could profer a couple of tips on the Bare Metal Foil that have helped me.

Instead of using the chrome BMF, try using the Aluminium one.

The chrome one looks perfect for the old American cars, but, like you said, it looks so unlike the real car.

The Aluminium BMF doesn't have the blinding glossy of the Chrome, and looks a lot better on the European sports cars :winkgrin:

You mentioned that you were having an issue with the BMF not sticking sometimes. I was shown a neat little trick. When you are ready to start foiling, take a 1500 grit sanding sponge and just lighty rub over the window frames etc with just one or two passes and clean off all the dust afterwards. Then apply the foil and hey presto, sticks like magic :coolio:

Hope this helps in some small way

:ninja: Mad Steve :ninja:

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I'll add my 2 cents (that's about what it's worth). Study the real car's trim closely. Notice in the photo that the trim is mostly black rubber seal. So if you try and make the entire area foil it will not look right. You'll need to paint the area black, then cover only a small portion in BMF.

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Looking closely at the metal trim around the windshield and rear glass most of the body thickness is actually black paint, not BMF!

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I did mine by painting about half of the trim area width in gloss black (yes, gloss). Then I polished it to make a very, very, very, smooth surface for the foil. Then I cut strips of the foil a bit wider than the width in scale of the real car and pulled them off the backing. Before placing each strip I applied a light coat of BMF adhesive and let it dry completely so I knew it would stick. Then I placed the foil strip at the location allowing for some exposed black near the glass and burnished it down with a polished toothpick. Next, I trimmed the excess off that overlapped onto the body panel with a brand new blade (a dull blade will tear the foil). Then I went back over the exposed gloss black area with flat clear to make it look like rubber. If the foil still looks too prominent you can add some thinned down black to the trench between the foil and the body color to simulate rubber seal on the other side of the strip. Mine looked ok without it so I skipped that step.

The three most common problems people have with foil is wrapping it all the way to the window glass which makes it look too thick, not getting a smooth surface under the foil so it looks wrinkled, and not brushing foil adhesive onto the foil (BMF's adhesive applied at the factory dries out and won't stick after about 6 months) .

Edited by Cratecruncher
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