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1/48 Hasegawa F-4EJ Phantom


Calum

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Next build is a 1/48 Phantom. I'm going for a colourful JASDF F-4EJ


F-4EJ-001.jpg


Might chuck some aftermarket at this, but then again much of this may go back in the box.


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First problem - True Details details intakes. These aren't the full length but the idea to simulate the internal depth and make it a drop fit was good. Pity they are too short by 10mm.. I have 2 sets and they are unusable IMHO. Stay away from them is my advice.


F-4EJ-003.jpg


F-4EJ-004.jpg

Edited by Calum
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Ok, it's going to be intake blanks again for the intakes... C'Mon Academy do the F-4E/F/G/EJ/and RF-4 series.....


This is the kit pit with Wolfpack IP. Old school drybrushing with a Vallejo light grey. Details are picked out with Vallejo paints and a fine brush. Nothing flash but good enough for this build.


F-4EJ-005.jpg


F-4EJ-006.jpg

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Lookin' good, is the rear IP Wolfpack or Hase?

Wolfpack

Couldn't be bothered with a resin cockpit so figured I'd use the PE and add some detail. Is it accurate Nope, but it busy's the area up enough
F-4EJ-007.jpg
Looks good enough under paint. And you won't see much with the seats in and the fuselage together anyway
F-4EJ-008.jpg
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Next was the Aires auxiliary air intakes The kit has nothing here so these add some nice detail that you''ll never see. I can't rememberer what they cost but I'm not sure I'd bother again


These were pretty simple to fit but you do have to trim some bits from the underside of the Fuselage. Much of these bits were going to have to go anyway to fit the Aires Exhausts


F-4EJ-009.jpg


F-4EJ-013.jpg

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The fuselage went together without to much trouble. I re-scribed most of the fuselage as lots of the detail is pretty soft. Not surprising considering the kits age.

After cleaning up the seams I fitted the Wolfpack nose. Fit of this was pretty good. The nose does need a some re-scribing and a couple coats of primer. I've also added some of the Eduard PE

F-4EJ-011.jpg

next job was to cut out the area for the upper red light, and replace it with some red resin which was then sanded and polished to shape. The upper pitot probe was replaced with brass tube.

F-4EJ-015.jpg

I then added some styrene strip to the sides of the fuselage to give the wings something to glue too.

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee348/gibstuff/Models/F-4EJ/F-4EJ-014.jpg

Edited by Calum
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  • 3 weeks later...

Nice work.

May I ask what does the new WP nose add to the kit?

That's a good question. The kit has the correct EJ nose. I guess it has the lightning strips, (I don't have the kit nose at hand to confirm it doesn't have them), and it's one piece. But apart from that not a lot. The panel lines looked a bit shallow so I re scribed them. In hindsight I probably didn't need to.

The set comes with the nose, a metal pitot and the 2 instrument panel. It's about $17 USD so it's not that expensive

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Added some wire and stuff to busy up the area behind the rear IP

F-4EJ-016.jpg

A bit of black and then some dry brushing and it'll do

F-4EJ-017.jpg

True Details Pylons. Typically TD quality (i.e. average) I had to re-*scribe all of them but they do like slightly better than the anaemic kits ones.

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F-4EJ-020.jpg

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Thanks to all you've commented.

This is my 2nd Hasegawa F-4 and again I've used the SAC undercarriage. Not because the detail is better than the kit legs, because it’s not, it’s worse in fact but for strength. The kit is quite heavy when finished and I've seen a few that have bowed over the years. The wheels are from Royale Resin, IMHO still the best aftermarket F-4 wheels. I've added the bits from the Eduard PE set.

F-4EJ-022.jpg

I've also had to scratch build the wing tips. I really should have used the proper F-4EJ Kai kit as a base for this build as it has different wing and fuselage sprues (Although they are the same letter) . This isn't my best effort but it'll be good enough

F-4EJ-023.jpg

Edited by Calum
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  • 2 weeks later...

I started with the NATO black for the thin black line and then masked it out with thin tape. Next was the lime green, Tamiya X 15. I masked it all out then pondered the grey’s.

The instructions have FS:36320 for the dark grey (upper surfaces) and FS:36375 (lower lighter surfaces).

But a lot of the images have appear to show much lighter greys than those two, that said there are images that show darker colours.

F-4EJ-024.jpg

After making some paper masks for the tops of the wings, I tried FS 26440, a light grey used on the JASDF F-1, but it looked to light. So after much thought, and looking through images I used Mr Color FS 36375 (308) as the base coat and mixed up lighter and darker shades of this. It’s still not quite right but it will do. This build wasn’t supposed to be anything more than a bit of fun with a colourful subject so I’ve decided to go with this and move on.

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I sprayed the light grey first, then the dark grey mixtures. I used my 0.2mm Sparmax airbrush to freehand all the light patches on the fuselage using photos as references. I did go back and forth multiple times until I was happy. In the end I loaded my usual 0.3mm Sparmax with the one colour and the 0.2mm with the other and chopped and changed until I was happy.

F-4EJ-027.jpg

Pulling of the masking I realised that the Light green is not a colour that dries quickly (or it remains soft for ages, something I’ve seen from time to time with other Tamiya gloss colours) as the masking tape had marked the finish. I’m going to have to sand of the marks and repaint it last.

F-4EJ-030.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Paints done/ Mr Color for the greys Tamiya for the green and black and Alclad over AS 11 for the metal.

The green was awful to paint, didn't cover well and took ages to dry. Many touch ups were required

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F-4EJ-029.jpg

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Seats, I always leave these til late in the build for some reason. These are the Quickboost seats.

F-4EJ-035.jpg

Gloss coate. I'm trying to use up old gloss coates I've bought and tried. This is Gaianotes. It's a Japanese Lacquer and I really like it as it dries very fast (I can decal over it in about 20 mins) But it's "hot" and I often get paint that it underneath bleed though. The green has bled through in places on this one which I've had to over coat again.

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And back to the green paint. The aircraft has some text printed in green. On the decal sheet it looks a fair bit different in shade from the green I've used. It looks closer to the Humbrol green (38 lime green?) . Some of the collours of the artwork on the sheet doesn't look like that on the photos either.

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Fun with stickers.

The main markings are from the Model Alliance sheet. They are printed by catrograph so they went down well.

However it seems the people you did the artwork clearly didn’t look at the aircraft in question. The background on the surfer on the splitter panes has a dark blue background on all the images I have, not light blue and purple. Plus the light green in the text doesn’t resemble the green they suggested for the tail, spine and nose. I’m just going to live with it and move on.

The stencils are from the Hasegawa kit. These are pretty close to the aircraft in question, so far I’ve only seen a couple of minor differences and I’m going to live with these. Hasegawa give you a lot of the individual stencils on 1 large decal but I’m cutting each one out and applying them individually. This is taking a long time. I’ve spent about 3 hours on this so far.

These decals are going down ok. But on most I’ve been putting a drop of floor polish under the decal then after positioning it, using a cotton bud to squeeze out the excess. Hopefully this will reduce the amount of silvering.

Where I haven’t used floor polish under the decal I used a really hot cloth to press down on the decal.

F-4EJ-038.jpg

I really like really hot water for decaling, especially for Hasegawa decals. I got sick of constantly emptying and topping up a container with hot water so this I picked up a glue pot ($10 at the local art store). This keeps the water just below boiling. This has been working really well, although I did put a inline switch so I can easily switch it off if need be

F-4EJ-039.jpg

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