PhantomBigStu Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) as per the title, embarrassed say the exact number of times I've attempted (and failed) this in my short modelling career, her goes another attempt, will not be beaten this time. Interiors all done as per the instructions. Edited November 19, 2015 by PhantomBigStu 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Looking good so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airgunner Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Yep, good start Stu, one tip if I may. As with all recent Airfix releases some of the tolerances are fairly tight, so make sure the mating surfaces between parts are totally clear of paint, especially on the bomb bay/fuselage floor, to fuselage sides parts you have there. A few minutes cleanup there will spare you hours of grief later on. Looking good, settling in for the duration. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Yep, good start Stu, one tip if I may. As with all recent Airfix releases some of the tolerances are fairly tight, so make sure the mating surfaces between parts are totally clear of paint, especially on the bomb bay/fuselage floor, to fuselage sides parts you have there. A few minutes cleanup there will spare you hours of grief later on. Looking good, settling in for the duration. very true...Looking good mind stu, I had a crack at this and finished it to an OK standard... Wife then put it in a draw when moving and then but a book on it the son then found it and dropped it on the floor... I have another in the stash. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Sorry, forgot that tip! You might also consider chopping the spars so that you can build the wings separately as I did on my 'T Tommy' build. I've just had a look through the WiP and can't find the reference, but I think it was Andy's idea? SimonL did this too. Makes handling a lot easier and masking a breeze (ish). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 interesting approach, though not one I'm going to take, ill be hairy sticking the camouflage (assuming I get that far) with the black can be sprayed on first, assuming I go with the spray route, testing it now, may just stock up on it and brush it as well, save me having to buy some maskol for the windows 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) took the tip of sanding the attachment areas, not perfect join but nothing a dab of filler can't remedy Edited November 19, 2015 by PhantomBigStu 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I see that you've encountered the tight tolerances issue with the rear spar as I did! On my second and subsequent I took the outer ends of the spars off inboard of the engine nacelle positions before assembly which prevented the bending right in way of the retraction ram and radius arm attachment points and enabled easier assembly of wings and nacelles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonkeyVong Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I hope you are not using that tube cement!! That stuff is bad enough to put any aspiring modeler off the hobby for life . Get yourself some plastic weld, it dries quickly and makes for a proper bond between parts as it physicaly fuses them together. Matt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 I use the tube stuff as well as CA as I've never been told otherwise and I have tons of the stuff, did normally use the Revell blue pots but all my now have blocked needles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight_Flyer Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Tube cement is ok for gluing large parts as long as you remember not to use too much otherwise it will continue to melt plastic even days later. Although Revell contacta is working fine for me on all builds. I would recommend using clamps to hold the parts together as tape has too much give. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonkeyVong Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I use the tube stuff as well as CA as I've never been told otherwise and I have tons of the stuff, did normally use the Revell blue pots but all my now have blocked needles Those revell blue pots are easy to unblock, just shove some fuse wire down the metal tube to clear it. Its not a bad product though, I just find it takes to long to set like all model cements. I still use it though but just to run into small gaps, where I dont want to use something as tough as CA. Matt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Fuse wire, or I use the wire that comes on bottles of wine. The LMS suggested you take the tube out and hold it in some pliers over a flame to burn out the glue - interesting technique and it works... just don't put the hot tube pack into the plastic bottle! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F4u Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Yeah heat (flame) will do it but don't hold it in the flame for long 5 seconds at the most. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 I use the tube stuff as well as CA as I've never been told otherwise and I have tons of the stuff, did normally use the Revell blue pots but all my now have blocked needles To unblock the nozzles straighten out two large staples,which should give you slightly over the length of the tube. push one in from one end until nearly all the way in, and then the other from the other end until it starts to push out the first one. Withdraw both staples and you should have an unblocked tube, works for me, I hope it works for you. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight_Flyer Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) A few good tips there. My current method is to remove the needle and hold it under running hot water. Wear gloves for protection. This appears to melt the glue which is forced out after pressing hard on the bottle when the needle is replaced. Blocked needles also seems to most likely occur if left uncovered for too long. I try to replace the cap as soon as I know the glue isn't needed. Edited November 5, 2015 by Knight_Flyer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 certainly some food for thought there guys, anyway an update on the progress, because I'm a halfwit I decided to paint all the insides of the wing bays up before fitting them even though this will be gear, suffice to say the wings refused to go on right, ripped them off, and after a lot of sanding I got a set of spare wings on....what a waste of time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 right all assembled aside from the upkeep assembly and other bits n bobs, ready for filling and priming, better go and buy some maskol for those windows.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 very true... Looking good mind stu, I had a crack at this and finished it to an OK standard... Wife then put it in a draw when moving and then but a book on it the son then found it and dropped it on the floor... I have another in the stash. Rob Been there, done that! This looks to be going well, crack on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) opps forgot the pic Edited November 19, 2015 by PhantomBigStu 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) well no maskol in stock so will be hairy sticking the black, spent ages cutting the tamiya tape as small as possible around the windows to keep the unprimed plastic to a minimum, have now got an anyoing problem, one of the gear doors collapsed an is now rattling around the inner wing as I couldn't get it out Edited November 6, 2015 by PhantomBigStu 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Shake it, baby, shake it! If it went in it must come out?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) I did just that for a good 5 minutes and gave up, and now the spares (super)glued in place, problem is it only went into the wing though a gap smaller than the door, now once its in the wing it can't repeat the angle which allowed it in as theres no space Edited November 6, 2015 by PhantomBigStu 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Yep, good start Stu, one tip if I may. As with all recent Airfix releases some of the tolerances are fairly tight, so make sure the mating surfaces between parts are totally clear of paint, especially on the bomb bay/fuselage floor, to fuselage sides parts you have there. A few minutes cleanup there will spare you hours of grief later on. In the prehistoric days of plastic modeling, when tooling was pantographed off large-scale master models, instruction sheets always reminded the builder to scrape paint off of mating surfaces. Today's CAD-designed models and tooling, with their much tighter tolerances, make it imperative to do so if the model is going to be assembled at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight_Flyer Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 I must be prehistoric then In the day I was taught to scrape paint off mating surfaces, it wasn't down to it being a CAD mold rather that paint reduces the effectiveness of glue used to join the parts. well no maskol in stock so will be hairy sticking the black, spent ages cutting the tamiya tape as small as possible around the windows to keep the unprimed plastic to a minimum, have now got an anyoing problem, one of the gear doors collapsed an is now rattling around the inner wing as I couldn't get it out As you've managed to mask the windows, can you not still use the rattle can to spray the black? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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