Gekko_1 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 OK, still going.............. Fixing up a gap in the lower fin with my Tamiya extra fine cement and sprue mix. Done! In the instructions it states to put some etched metal behind these cable ducts. However looking through my references I couldn't see any evidence of such plating behind the duct so I just glued them directly to the fuselage. Wings being glued now.................. Cheers Richard. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Wings on. The fit is not great. A lot of filling, sanding and blending, mainly at the rear of the join and around the fin leading edge. Fun, fun, fun! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Filled.......................... Cheers Richard. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 It's a pity that such filling (and the sanding and blending) is required, but it's good to see you tackling it so competently. How long does your dissolved plastic mix take to cure/fully harden? It looks messy in the raw, just-applied state, but I'm sure once the masking tape is removed that 75% of the 'mess' is taken care of. Is it tricky to sand and blend what remains? Keep at it, painting can't be too far away. Andrew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 It's a pity that such filling (and the sanding and blending) is required, but it's good to see you tackling it so competently. How long does your dissolved plastic mix take to cure/fully harden? It looks messy in the raw, just-applied state, but I'm sure once the masking tape is removed that 75% of the 'mess' is taken care of. Is it tricky to sand and blend what remains? Keep at it, painting can't be too far away. Andrew. Hi Andrew, the mix usually hardens in 24 hours. It may take a little longer if you've applied a thicker coating of it. The sanding and blending is easy once its dry because it has the same consistency as the plastic of your kit. In fact you could mix-up a brand new mix using bits of sprue from the very same kit as you're working on, thus guaranteeing the plastic is the same. I've never had to do this and have never had an issue with it. The other added bonus, and my main reason for using this mix, is that it does not shrink. Cheers Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Tape removed and on we go! Using various sanding sticks and wet and dry the Tamiya Extra Thin cement/sprue mix is easily sanded away. Here you can see I've circled a little patch that will need a little bit more of the mix applied. The wing to fuselage leading edge area had some small pits that hadn't quite filled, so I used some Tamiya Extra Thin cement to soften and blend the area. This trick works well. Cheers Richard. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 That's the front bit done. Smooth as glass. Next the rear join, then rescribing fun! Nearly there................ Cheers Richard. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Tidy work Richard It's attention to detail and the application of skill such as this which creates amazing and inspiring models. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 As Col said, that is very tidy work. Thanks for demonstrating this technique (and its results) so well. Andrew. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Thanks guys! Here we see a gap that needs to be fixed. Mask off the area.................. Apply the mix...................... Because of the amount applied I will wait 2 to 3 days before re-shaping the area. Cheers Richard. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Great work - as a novice can I ask how you create the mix (or is it a secret recipe!?) From what I can work out you use Tamiya extra thin glue and sprue? Is it a case of placing the sprue in a container with some of the glue and it kinda dissolves? Looks a great technique and no doubt stops the shrinking etc, easy to get into those pesky gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Great work - as a novice can I ask how you create the mix (or is it a secret recipe!?) From what I can work out you use Tamiya extra thin glue and sprue? Is it a case of placing the sprue in a container with some of the glue and it kinda dissolves? Looks a great technique and no doubt stops the shrinking etc, easy to get into those pesky gaps. Hi Tim, yes its all pretty simple, I just poured some Tamiya Extra Thin cement into an empty bottle of the same, then added small bits of sprue. Then just wait a couple of hours for the sprue to dissolve and away you go! You can add more sprue or more Tamiya Extra Thin cement into the mix depending on what consistency you require. You could even mix-up different thicknesses in different bottles for specific filling requirements. What I like about it is its simplicity. I've always suffered from shrinking issues with all fillers except super glue, but super glue can cause problems with shattering depending on thickness. Also if not sanded at the right time super glue can become much harder than the plastic making it nearly impossible to sand away without damaging the surrounding plastic. Super glue can also become problematic when it comes to rescribing. I apply it with an old paint brush handle that I cut to shape if needed to get into tight corners. It can be a bit 'stringy' when applying it sometimes, but I've never found that to be an issue. Plus you can make it whatever colour you like depending on what colour sprue you have at hand. Mine has sort of evolved into this brown shade over time. Tonally its the same as the grey of the kit, but shows up well once sanded so I can see where it is, which can also be very handy. So overall I can't see myself using anything else. Its simple to create, easy to work with, doesn't shrink, can be coloured and sands as easy as the kit plastic because that is exactly what it is. Give it a try you won't regret it! Cheers Richard. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Thanks for sharing your technique Richard - the Corsair is really coming along. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Thanks Richard, I take it that it just stays kinda gooey in the jar as long as the lids on? Defo going to give this a go - thanks for taking the time to explain, really appreciated. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Thanks Richard, I take it that it just stays kinda gooey in the jar as long as the lids on? Defo going to give this a go - thanks for taking the time to explain, really appreciated. Yes that's right Tim, keep the lid airtight and you'll be fine. I usually have to add a bit more Tamiya Extra Thin to my mix after several months anyway. You could even mix up very small batches at a time to experiment with.You're welcome! Richard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch K Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 It's nice to see someone doing this old school filler method! I do the same for small gaps, but I co-formulate mine with a bit of chalk powder which seems to aloow the solvent to diffuse out a little bit quicker and makes the filler slightly softer than the surrounding kit, which helps to preserve the rest of the kit when I sand. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Scribing! Oh the joy. This is the razor saw I use. Comes in very handy. Just lightly push it up against the scribing tape and without any downward pressure just move it towards you following the tape slowly at first. Dead simple, works fantastically and because the blade is so thin it gives you a very acceptable panel line. As you can see the Tamiya Extra Thin cement/sprue mix scribes effortlessly. After I removed a small locating pin I found I had a small hole in the plastic. I filled it with my Tamiya Extra Thin cement/sprue mix, then added a little Tamiya Extra Thin cement using its brush directly onto the filler to smooth it out and melt it into the plastic a little. The black lines you see are marked to help guide me with the panel lines that I'm about to add once the filler is dry. This is the guide tape I use. In this example I'm using the tape not only for the panel line itself, which I'm scribing with a Tamiya Scriber, but also using another piece of tape to act as a stopper so I don't go too far and ruin the line I've already scribed. I bet you can hardly see where that small hole was! Nearly there! A few more lines to add and I think I'm ready for primer. Cheers Richard. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Good to see this one is about to reach the next stage Richard. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Cool tools and demonstration Richard. Hope the priming goes well; if your progress thus far is any indication, it should go very well. cheers, Andrew. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Neat work, looks promising! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Not as far along as I would have liked with 20 days left! Still some more bits to sand and re-scribe. Discovered after an initial primer spot coat. At least all the fussing about is paying off. I'm really liking the result with just the spot work of primer on. Look at that front wing root area that I spent so much time on. It looks perfect. Next is all the fun of getting rid of all the ejection pin marks on the undercarriage doors and wheels!!!!! Mr Hasegawa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What were you thinking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers Richard. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Quality work Richard. I hope you are able to finish this one within the timescale as it's looking great. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papa Delta Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Any updates on this short little fella? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VMA131Marine Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) Yes! I'm in! This looks like it will be great. I have always liked this ones of yours best though! I think the F-8 Crusader would look great in this scheme as well ....if only there were any kit of the RF-8G it could be the Crusader FR.2 I do question the FG designation for the A-7 Corsair II though. It's not really equipped for the fighter role. Maybe it should use the "S" designation for "Strike" as in Corsair S.2 Edited November 25, 2015 by VMA131Marine 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gekko_1 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Well I didn't get it finished in time. I fought it the whole way. Definitely not Hasegawa's typical quality. It doesn't help when manufacturers make a kit like this with everything opened up simply because anybody who wants to show it all buttoned up will have a hell of a time trying to make everything fit properly and I for one am a modeller who doesn't like aircraft with everything open and hanging out, it looks too busy and detracts from the shape of the aircraft. In fact I can't recall seeing a Hasegawa A-7E all closed up ever? But, the build continues, I'll move it to its new location here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234992823-royal-navy-s2-corsair/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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