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Dornier 17z Airfix (1/72)


Roy vd M.

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Thank you Jaime,

To me these discussions are interesting as well. They often lead to new points of view and thoughts.

Pigments (dust) is one thing I might be able to further detail the cockpit area with. Maybe nice with some fingerprints on them! It could perhaps take away a bit of Reserve_22's reserve.

I agree on you about reading the Spanish school-stuff. Actually I studied Villalba's book and I learned from it. Not half as much as I did when studying Mig Jimenez' FAQ book or or Michael Rinaldi's Tankart book, but still. Every modeler has his own methods and style, that's one of the reasons why modeling shows or contests won't ever become boring.

Brgds Roy

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151. A bit of weathering pastel PW05 (Mr Hobby) was added to the high and low horizontal surfaces to simulate dust. Tried modeling fingerprints into the dust, but that was way too much trouble for the purposes of this fastgoing project.

21928806658_8a5f7aac8b_b.jpg

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Hi Roy,

I limit the use of pigments to exhaust stains, gun shot stains and dust/mud on the wheels and landing gears. But your idea of using them in the cockpit could produce interesting results, even without trying to reproduce the crew's fingerprints :)

Cheers

Jaime

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@Jaime: for gun shot stains I personally use the airbrush because of scale, but if you thin the pigments well I think it would also look nice.


@ArmouredSprue: thank you for following this thread!



152. Eduard instructs that its landing gear doors have to be attached to Airfix' doors. Don't do that! The photo etch is, in scale, about as thin as the real doors. The only thing that has to be added are the hinges, but that's of no consequence as Airfix's hinges wouldn't have fitted anyway after adding the photo etch and thinning the nacelle side walls.


'Rolling' the doors (length, thereafter slightly width, then again length etc., until the curves are correct).


22141169125_c3a17c59c0_b.jpg


153. This is the way it's going to be.


22128582382_4ab1c925ee_b.jpg


154. Compare thickness and curvature.


21953016640_230939eca7_b.jpg


155. The exhausts of the real 17z Bramo engines were very thin-'walled'. Drill by hand (0,95mm.) and thin it a bit further by using a rotating knife (keep the knife between thumb and index finger, roll it between those fingers). Before and after:


22141163735_f725671210_b.jpg


156. Impression of the photo etch set's contents. Unfortunately not to be found on Eduard's site, I hope aspiring buyers can use the info on the following picture.


21520060483_a319ffdec1_b.jpg


157. The difference.


22151342401_a132e83405_b.jpg


158. The difference, other side. Only on the picture did I see the need for filling above the PE-top.


21518350774_95a9cef840_b.jpg


159. There was a hole in one of the nacelle-walls... my mistake (grinding slip). I filled this hole with CA glue, just like the gap in the back. The moist spots are CA glue.


21518347744_80ed173ac7_b.jpg


160. Zap kicker.


22141167985_f96ddbc1c5_b.jpg


161. Nail file.


22128581212_16c66a6c33_b.jpg


162. Filed and sanded a bit with sanding stick.


22141167265_23f9c2f633_b.jpg


163. Remaining cracks, hairlines or other deficiencies are usually discovered while priming but I'm not that patient; I use a silver liner.


21518346904_cf3fe6b079_b.jpg


164. Success!


21953306408_3214ffd290_b.jpg


165. The gap...


22128581002_f274a9c9e9_b.jpg


166. Here you can see it's not completely flat. I removed the silver and filed some more...


21520053693_79a491d41c_b.jpg


167. ... cured.


22114988046_ee63fc2d6a_b.jpg


168. Very rarely I use putty to fill a gap.


21953087060_a2aa9412f1_b.jpg


Now one side is ready to be primed! On to the other side :)


Total spent time: 72 hours.

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Roy,

This is impressive and superb detail work! And full of useful tips, as usual. I'm glad you're breaking the way open for other modellers to follow :)

Cheers and thanks a lot for sharing

Jaime

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Jaime, your comment is much appreciated. I always feel the drive to explain what I'm doing. Advanced modelers (who are plentiful on this high-quality forum) may rarely read something new to them, but you never know. And also for my own purposes it's handy. For example, when I'll be doing the port side flaps I'll definitely take another look at my earlier pictures and comments, to make life easier for myself. It's one month ago when I made the starboard flaps... maybe I already forgot 15%. If I'll make them in half a year from now, probably I'll have forgotten 30%; and I don't want to make the same mistakes again :)

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Hi Roy,

I fully agree with your approach to posting WIPs. I try to be as detailed as possible myself, both for the benefit of other modellers (if they find my posts interesting) and as a future reference to myself. I also get back to reading my previous posts while building a model, just to clarify how I did certain details I no longer remember well.

In this specific case, I'm finding your posts extremely useful since I'm building the same kit, and you have influenced me regarding adding more detail. Even yesterday, I checked your pictures of the cockpit's parts with PE applied, because one of the PE parts was bigger than the existing space in the plastic part and I managed to confirm you had the same issue.

Keep posting your excellent work!

Cheers

Jaime

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re Blitz aircraft refuellers. The Academy kit is indeed for the rocket fuel, but I've made a model that isn't - it was from the East European company MAC Distribution. Given the turnover with these companies, you may have problems finding examples. You could also look at the Matador company range. This includes the standard Blitz tanker, and a choice of trailer bodies. http://matadormodels.co.uk/yairfield2%2072nd/lists%20airfield72nd.htm

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I have only just caught up with this build, and there is some excellent stuff here. One of the things I like most on this site is the generosity of members; there are some incredibly talented modellers on here, but I have never found anyone too proud to share their techniques and offer advice - and no-one should ever stop learning as a modeller (or indeed as anything else!).

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@Jaime: indeed it's a nice thing we're building this kit simultaneously so we can learn from each others builds, to the benefit of both our models.

@Graham: thanks to your post I looked into Mac Distribution's Opel Blitz once more and had to conclude you're absolutely right: that's the base model. Thank you very much for that info! I decided to purchase the Mercedes refueller as wel las the Opel refueller and will probably build the Opel for this diorama.

@Ex-Faawafu: thank you for your very nice comment. I agree wholeheartedly that you're never too old (or advanced?) to learn.

Here are the two kits I purchased:

200904171401_72066.jpg

200904171402_72066dio2.jpg

200911101735_72116.jpg

201001201301_72116p4.jpg

(Copyrights Mac Distribution, reference purposes only, pictures will be deleted upon first request)

169. The following method to clamp the back wall while drying makes more sense than the one used before...

22029826060_3d845ff35e_b.jpg

170. During grinding the nacelle side walls, it's useful to keep your finger underneath the plastic. That way the tool will not slip as easily. Don't burn your finger though.

22205107872_3ba0d3384a_b.jpg

Vacuforming

171. Vacuforming is very easy using the new plastic (Pet-G). Anyone can do it, with the right materials. I'll describe them hereunder.

First, sand the original so that the new part will have the same dimensions as the original. I sand every face 40 times with a rather rough side of the sanding stick, then finish with smooth side.

22039012370_3cc43f4ee0_b.jpg

172. It then looks like this.

22039021360_ec980b5f12_b.jpg

173. Here the one original part within the other original part. The unamended original is a bit wider; sanding mission accomplished!

21604306004_410e0dd77a_b.jpg

174. I purchased a picture frame (wood), measuring (shortest side) 13 centimeters. After a bit of sawdust and Gator Glue, the long side was 13 cm as well. As a matter of great coincidence, the purchased Pet-G plastics fit perfectly on that frame. That's some luck, what can I say! They can be clamped by means of 8 file clamps, for sale at the local office center.

21606054193_1359de432d_b.jpg

175. The picture frame is grabbed with pliers and is kept above an electrical burner (in the oven is good as well). First it's flat:

21606041833_f6b53e0174_b.jpg

176. Then it starts shrinking.

22227077915_8f6b01f301_b.jpg

177. And it will shrink some more. No worries, that's normal.

22214261162_af4918f7f1_b.jpg

178. From the center it flattens once more (but hot now!) Wait until the flattening has completed in the corners.

21604322114_747d0a7b1f_b.jpg

179. From below you can see that it's sagging under its own weight about half a centimeter. The plastic is very flexible now. Jiggle the frame, and the plastic will jiggle along.

21604317534_5519d9a1f0_b.jpg

180. Before, the blu-tack was put into the original piece, to prevent the part from imploding. Best way is filling the sides of the original with blu-tack, so that a smooth 'avalanche' comes into being.

What you see here is:

- A board with a hole in it (3 cm. I think);

- Beneath the hole there's an L-piece of PVC-tube with rubber rings inside. coincidentally, the vacuum cleaner hose fits perfectly within it. The L-piece is connected to the board by means of industrial glue. Each time I'll want to vacuform I'll simply connect the vacuum cleaner hose. The board rests upon a simple foldable basket for sale in most supermarkets.

- Over the hole there are two pieces of Ministeck-board (cut to size). I had them lying around; works perfectly. I used two rather than one, to place the object higher than the weatherstrip.

- Weatherstrip, for sale at your local home depot. The weatherstrip was put (appr.) 13x13cm., so that if the picture frame rests upon it the vacuum cleaner will be able to pull the heated plastic into a vacuum.

22237444611_e28653dcba_b.jpg

181. After the plastic sags about a centimeter (one minute appr., with a hot burner or oven), turn on the vacuum cleaner and put the frame on top of the weathering strip. Within a second the vacuum makes for a perfect cover of the original.

22237437421_e441fb6bf5_b.jpg

182. Let it cool down, cut loose, mark the cut lines with a permanent marker or so, and cut & sand. This can alternatively be done with the original still in situ.

22040183189_40620d929c_b.jpg

183. Because of the sanding, a number of windows more or less became a curvature. That's okay, because eventually the Eduard masking stickers will provide for the illusion of angularness. By the way, when I touch the part with my finger I feel it isn't curved but there are still faces!

22040177809_48ecfc9870_b.jpg

184. It fits perfectly, is beautifully clear and is about 1/3 as thick as the original. Now it's a bit dirty but a bit of Pledge will make it shine heavily. I'm very satisfied!

The whole vacuforming system (safe a 3 cm. drill bit which you can probably lend from your neighbor) cost me about 30 euros.

22039326828_cba16672a6_b.jpg

Total spent time: 74 hours.

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186. Other side: the brass strip on top isn't quite horizontal. Something to take into account if you're building this.

22066661080_6d4cb0bfc2_b.jpg

187. To dryfit the nacelle, I used tape on the other side. This side I simply used the front wall as a clamp. On the following picture the right wall was glued, the left wall wasn't.

22066660990_93a900cb46_b.jpg

188. I discovered that applying thin CA glue can be done very easily. Turn the bottle and pour a drop of glue on an applicator. Keep the applicator against the parts to be glued and voilà!

22066945128_ac4494f83b_b.jpg

189. Hinge: scribe a few times in 0,005 inch brass plate, then bend to and fro; it will then break off.

22228606376_ae69071203_b.jpg

190. Then bend it using a knife and bend to and fro using tweezers until the hinge-to-be breaks off.

22241881222_96df75ba02_b.jpg

191. This is what it looks like, having used Gator Glue.

21633667653_eea4247a73_b.jpg

192. The fuselage was partly masked (a section that was incorrectly painted RLM66 will receive a coat of RLM02). The rest is ready, landing gear doors were tagged 'port' and 'starboard'. Ready to prime!

22066662710_c173a659d2_b.jpg

Time spent thus far: 79 hours.

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@Ruudster: Ministeck is still available in toy stores. I personally have a collection of vintage Ministeck because I like the stuff :D You only need a little piece for the basis. If you need some, check out your local flea market :)


Good to see that you like the accompanying texts. It's a joy to write them :)


@Gremlin: thanks, I like the transparency as well. It's much easier than I feared while I was working with the Evergreen sheets. I kept thinking "what am I doing wrong"... but in reality it's quite a simple thing to do if you have the right materials and, especially, the right plastic (Pet-G).


193. Priming.


22095145758_5dbd7c2020_b.jpg


194. A few layers of RLM02:


- 2 drops of Vallejo flow improver.

- 10 drops of Vallejo Air 71.044 (light grey green).

- 2 drops of Vallejo Air 71.001 (white).

- 6 drops of Vallejo thinner.


22096038089_d77855131a_b.jpg


195. Non-weathered basis finished...


21661833263_5714bfbb59_b.jpg


196. ... is what I thought! But a dryfit learns that the top wing part will remain partly visible (see red arrow) through the landing gear assembly.


21661833203_d28250975e_b.jpg


197. So the top wing also gets a bit of RLM02. To whom builds this kit: please take this into account!



22094829250_f36afe7653_b.jpg


198. And even the firewall (wall between engine and landing gear bay) will remain mostly visible. The area I put the stick upon, will have to be painted as well.


22256839146_4f479040fb_b.jpg


199. Extremely unnecessary dryfit.


21661833273_3de6dc99f0_b.jpg


Total spent hours: 76 hours.

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Roy,

Thanks for the tutorial on vacuforming. I'll go through it with interest but I'm not sure I'll ever try it... Let's see...

The rest of your progress is per your usual high standard and full of useful tips. Thanks for sharing :)

Cheers

Jaime

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@Jaime: I think purchasing the vacuforming stuff costs two hours, building the thing an hour, and then you can form your own canopies. The most difficult thing is taking the risk of sanding the original canopy. I'd recommend trying it on a spare canopy first :)
WARNING TO READERS: the following is not for everyone. Those who are not interested in theories on modelling I'd advise to forward to picture 203. You've been warned :D
Weathering and lighting on 1/72 scale
200. As mentioned, the following won't be interesting to everyone. It's quite a theoretical talk about weathering techniques and lighting / shadowing on small scale.
A few basic POV's:
1) Techniques usually referred to as 'weathering' I either call 'weathering' or 'lighting'.
2) A pinwash is, in my view, meant for making artificial shadowing and therefore belongs to the 'lighting' category.
3) Lighting or shadowing areas by means of oil paint or a filter, as well as color modulation, are 'lighting'.
4) All other techniques are 'weathering'.
Again, all according to my methodology, so that you guys can follow what I'm talking about hereunder.
I use the following techniques (also, more or less, in the following order) and I'll mark those that I think are not applicable in 1/72 scale.
(before decals)
- Color modulation.
- Filters.
(after decals)
- Pinwash.*
- Outlining.*
- Shadowing and depth (oil).
- Color accents and clarity (oil).
- Fading and coloring (oil.
- Chipping with brush (acrylic).
- Chipping using abrasive sponge (acrylic).
- Chipping with drybrush (acrylic).
- Chipping with brush (acrylic).
- Streaking grime (enamel).
- Old rain marks (enamel).
- Rust streaks (enamel).
- Cumulated rust (enamel wash or enamel).
- Large rust areas.
- Weathering for tracks (actylic, enamel, Blackn-it).
- Cumulated dirt (enamel).
- Staining (acrylic).
- Oil and fuel old (enamel).
- Dust (enamel + Tamiya).
- Mud (enamel, pigments etc.).
- Oil and fuel recent (enamel).
- Bird poo.
- Metal graphite / metal pigments / other metal.
- Leafs, branches etc.
- Fresh rain marks (enamel).

* Not to be used, in my view, in small scale such as 1/72.
Preshading and postshading
Not a part of this list are preshading and postshading, because personally I don't understand the use of those techniques. Compare pictures of a pre- or postshaded model with a real specimen and you'll see that the preshading isn't based on reality. Panel lines of a plane are really very close to one another. There's almost no gap. A wash in panel lines is often a bit too broad, but does give a miniature version of reality. Regarding preshading, where it seems the panels are positioned to one another in a V-shape of some sort (see on of the drawings hereunder), I think that's very unrealistic. And no, the center of a panel is, in real life, not especially lightened.
For example, see these drawings (side views of panels + underlying construction):
22320153001_75e3d8b1e2_b.jpg
Top drawing: at a 1:1-specimen the panels are close to one another. You do see a slight gap but it's minimal.
Here, for example, with a Junkers 88, see the minimal space between panels.
Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-402-0270-05A,_Flu
Second picture above shows how, for example, Airfix made the panel lines on the 1/72 version. Personally I think this is one of the kit's weaker points and i'm not sure yet how to solve it. In Airfix magazine of end 2014 there's a build report and that Dornier had received a black wash in all of the panel lines. Way, way over-scale. That is, in my view, the perfect method to not let your model resemble a real specimen.
Here a schematic overview of what preshading or postshading (if applied along the panel lines) does:
22309570325_d54b2b9cf3_b.jpg
This is very much contradictory to reality and I wonder why so many modelers apply that technique. To make a more attractive image? There are several other techniques that can lead to that result, especially using oil paint; yes those techniques take a lot more time and concentration, but what's important is that they give a much better impression of scaled-down reality.
By the way, preshading on the whole surface of the model (=after priming, a coat of black is airbrushed) CAN get the desired effect; but that's a different method than the one described above. It's also a method more rarely used, unfortunately.
Wash
201. Back to the wash issue we talked about a few days ago. To make more clear why I don't use a wash, see the following drawing (square titled 'pinwash').
22120352040_a42be47f41_b.jpg
In that square you can see three rivets. If a rivet gets a wash in 1/32 scale, you get a nice small shadow realistically applicable to that scale. Do that on 1/72, you get the same size of shadow, but a much smaller rivet. Done in scale 1/350, you'd get a shadow three times as large as the rivet itself.
Conclusion: either I could use a wash on my 1/72 model and, afterwards, try to remove half of it with a brush (takes a lot of time and effort, isn't a very secure method), or I use different methods to apply shadowing, such as drybrush. That's a method that I've stopped using in larger scales, because the method is showing its age. But for a small scale I think it's ideal.
Lighting
202. With this build I'll mainly use shadowing and depth, color accents, fading and decoloring, chipping with drybrush and brush, streaking grime, staining, oil and fuel, dust and metal. The other techniques I deem less fit here, because I intend to depict a brand new plane; the body is mainly aluminium and therefore rust wouldn't be found there, and a few other techniques are focussed mainly on artillery and tanks.
The landing gear housings will mainly receive shadowing. See, again, the previous drawing. The sun rays reflect (diffusely) on the grass or the concrete, so that the inner nacelles are slightly exposed to light. They are not fully darkened, although there's no direct sunlight on them. See the drawing for schematics of how the sun rays (green) can provide a bit of lighting. The black stripes depict spots where the light penetrates most difficultly.
However, I'll do the lighting differently. Rather than applying just artificial shadows, I'll also apply artificial lighting (using oil paint shadow brown resp. white). Normally the plane will be set in a diorama and there's going to be no way whatsoever to see the inner nacelles. But I won't fix the plane to the basis, so that the viewer could pick it up, turn it around and have a look at the bomb bays + nacelles. So, I'll apply the lighting based on the fiction of sun rays directly touching the nacelles and the bomb bay. That way, the realism is maintained in a virtual way.
All of this has, as can be seen, put me to quite a bit of thinking. This has led to the decision to do some more cockpit detailing (mostly being lighting and shadowing) through oil paint drybrushing. This will add to the realism. Thanks to Reserve_22 for making me force myself into thinking over the detailing a bit more. The extra lighting detailing most probably wouldn't be done if it weren't for Reserve_22's remarks.
203. Three oil paints; eventually I would only use the white and the shadow brown ones.
22120640478_89629e3d0f_b.jpg
204. Here, the platform of the left specimen received a transparent layer of white, as if the sun is shining on it.
22120351990_4b214440a8_b.jpg
205. The rivets and other details received a drybrush of shadow brown oil paint, top to bottom, thereafter a drybrush white - bottom to top. The drybrush residue was largely removed, but not all... to receive a very little bit of a greasy look.
22318942601_83c8b50f26_b.jpg
206. This is the effect. Left: the unamended part, right: the lightened part. Also with this part I drybrushed dark brown (top to bottom) and white (bottom to top). The difference isn't big, but there really is a difference - especially in realism. This way, the shadowing is (in my view) more or less correct. Besides that, there's an agreeable level of grime; residue is removed.
22121522429_b7a27427f2_b.jpg
207. All of the nacelle was lightened this way, whereby on the areas that would receive 'sun ray's white oil paint was added, and the parts in shadows a transparent layer of brown.
21687320193_899e41ae6b_b.jpg
208. Minimal chipping in a drybrush-like way.
22308357625_56733e9e0c_b.jpg
209. The other side: tiny bit of chipping also.
22318942341_96d110c90a_b.jpg
Total spent time: 78 hours.
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@Jaime: I think purchasing the vacuforming stuff costs two hours, building the thing an hour, and then you can form your own canopies. The most difficult thing is taking the risk of sanding the original canopy. I'd recommend trying it on a spare canopy first :)
WARNING TO READERS: the following is not for everyone. Those who are not interested in theories on modelling I'd advise to forward to picture 203. You've been warned :D
Weathering and lighting on 1/72 scale
200. As mentioned, the following won't be interesting to everyone. It's quite a theoretical talk about weathering techniques and lighting / shadowing on small scale.
A few basic POV's:
1) Techniques usually referred to as 'weathering' I either call 'weathering' or 'lighting'.
2) A pinwash is, in my view, meant for making artificial shadowing and therefore belongs to the 'lighting' category.
3) Lighting or shadowing areas by means of oil paint or a filter, as well as color modulation, are 'lighting'.
4) All other techniques are 'weathering'.
Again, all according to my methodology, so that you guys can follow what I'm talking about hereunder.
I use the following techniques (also, more or less, in the following order) and I'll mark those that I think are not applicable in 1/72 scale.
(before decals)
- Color modulation.
- Filters.
(after decals)
- Pinwash.*
- Outlining.*
- Shadowing and depth (oil).
- Color accents and clarity (oil).
- Fading and coloring (oil.
- Chipping with brush (acrylic).
- Chipping using abrasive sponge (acrylic).
- Chipping with drybrush (acrylic).
- Chipping with brush (acrylic).
- Streaking grime (enamel).
- Old rain marks (enamel).
- Rust streaks (enamel).
- Cumulated rust (enamel wash or enamel).
- Large rust areas.
- Weathering for tracks (actylic, enamel, Blackn-it).
- Cumulated dirt (enamel).
- Staining (acrylic).
- Oil and fuel old (enamel).
- Dust (enamel + Tamiya).
- Mud (enamel, pigments etc.).
- Oil and fuel recent (enamel).
- Bird poo.
- Metal graphite / metal pigments / other metal.
- Leafs, branches etc.
- Fresh rain marks (enamel).

* Not to be used, in my view, in small scale such as 1/72.

Preshading and postshading
Not a part of this list are preshading and postshading, because personally I don't understand the use of those techniques. Compare pictures of a pre- or postshaded model with a real specimen and you'll see that the preshading isn't based on reality. Panel lines of a plane are really very close to one another. There's almost no gap. A wash in panel lines is often a bit too broad, but does give a miniature version of reality. Regarding preshading, where it seems the panels are positioned to one another in a V-shape of some sort (see on of the drawings hereunder), I think that's very unrealistic. And no, the center of a panel is, in real life, not especially lightened.
For example, see these drawings (side views of panels + underlying construction):
Top drawing: at a 1:1-specimen the panels are close to one another. You do see a slight gap but it's minimal.
Here, for example, with a Junkers 88, see the minimal space between panels.
Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-402-0270-05A,_Flu
Second picture above shows how, for example, Airfix made the panel lines on the 1/72 version. Personally I think this is one of the kit's weaker points and i'm not sure yet how to solve it. In Airfix magazine of end 2014 there's a build report and that Dornier had received a black wash in all of the panel lines. Way, way over-scale. That is, in my view, the perfect method to not let your model resemble a real specimen.
Here a schematic overview of what preshading or postshading (if applied along the panel lines) does:
22309570325_d54b2b9cf3_b.jpg
This is very much contradictory to reality and I wonder why so many modelers apply that technique. To make a more attractive image? There are several other techniques that can lead to that result, especially using oil paint; yes those techniques take a lot more time and concentration, but what's important is that they give a much better impression of scaled-down reality.
By the way, preshading on the whole surface of the model (=after priming, a coat of black is airbrushed) CAN get the desired effect; but that's a different method than the one described above. It's also a method more rarely used, unfortunately.
Wash
201. Back to the wash issue we talked about a few days ago. To make more clear why I don't use a wash, see the following drawing (square titled 'pinwash').
22120352040_a42be47f41_b.jpg
In that square you can see three rivets. If a rivet gets a wash in 1/32 scale, you get a nice small shadow realistically applicable to that scale. Do that on 1/72, you get the same size of shadow, but a much smaller rivet. Done in scale 1/350, you'd get a shadow three times as large as the rivet itself.
Conclusion: either I could use a wash on my 1/72 model and, afterwards, try to remove half of it with a brush (takes a lot of time and effort, isn't a very secure method), or I use different methods to apply shadowing, such as drybrush. That's a method that I've stopped using in larger scales, because the method is showing its age. But for a small scale I think it's ideal.
Lighting
202. With this build I'll mainly use shadowing and depth, color accents, fading and decoloring, chipping with drybrush and brush, streaking grime, staining, oil and fuel, dust and metal. The other techniques I deem less fit here, because I intend to depict a brand new plane; the body is mainly aluminium and therefore rust wouldn't be found there, and a few other techniques are focussed mainly on artillery and tanks.
The landing gear housings will mainly receive shadowing. See, again, the previous drawing. The sun rays reflect (diffusely) on the grass or the concrete, so that the inner nacelles are slightly exposed to light. They are not fully darkened, although there's no direct sunlight on them. See the drawing for schematics of how the sun rays (green) can provide a bit of lighting. The black stripes depict spots where the light penetrates most difficultly.
However, I'll do the lighting differently. Rather than applying just artificial shadows, I'll also apply artificial lighting (using oil paint shadow brown resp. white). Normally the plane will be set in a diorama and there's going to be no way whatsoever to see the inner nacelles. But I won't fix the plane to the basis, so that the viewer could pick it up, turn it around and have a look at the bomb bays + nacelles. So, I'll apply the lighting based on the fiction of sun rays directly touching the nacelles and the bomb bay. That way, the realism is maintained in a virtual way.
All of this has, as can be seen, put me to quite a bit of thinking. This has led to the decision to do some more cockpit detailing (mostly being lighting and shadowing) through oil paint drybrushing. This will add to the realism. Thanks to Reserve_22 for making me force myself into thinking over the detailing a bit more. The extra lighting detailing most probably wouldn't be done if it weren't for Reserve_22's remarks.
203. Three oil paints; eventually I would only use the white and the shadow brown ones.
22120640478_89629e3d0f_b.jpg
204. Here, the platform of the left specimen received a transparent layer of white, as if the sun is shining on it.
22120351990_4b214440a8_b.jpg
205. The rivets and other details received a drybrush of shadow brown oil paint, top to bottom, thereafter a drybrush white - bottom to top. The drybrush residue was largely removed, but not all... to receive a very little bit of a greasy look.
22318942601_83c8b50f26_b.jpg
206. This is the effect. Left: the unamended part, right: the lightened part. Also with this part I drybrushed dark brown (top to bottom) and white (bottom to top). The difference isn't big, but there really is a difference - especially in realism. This way, the shadowing is (in my view) more or less correct. Besides that, there's an agreeable level of grime; residue is removed.
22121522429_b7a27427f2_b.jpg
207. All of the nacelle was lightened this way, whereby on the areas that would receive 'sun ray's white oil paint was added, and the parts in shadows a transparent layer of brown.
21687320193_899e41ae6b_b.jpg
208. Minimal chipping in a drybrush-like way.
22308357625_56733e9e0c_b.jpg
209. The other side: tiny bit of chipping also.
22318942341_96d110c90a_b.jpg
Total spent time: 78 hours.

Looks good, very subtle :goodjob:

Edited by Gremlin56
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Thanks Gremlin, indeed very subtle... hope that does the trick!

210. After having applied 'lighting' to the bomb bay, the wing supports and the 250KG-bomb supports (those bombs won't be used in my model by the way) are fixed.
22197646540_45258424b0_b.jpg
211. I was thinking 'Heinkel 111' here. That plane has a bulkhead separating the radio room from the back fuselage. The Dornier doesn't... so do keep this in mind while priming and RLM02'ing...
22198797059_bfd2010845_b.jpg
212. The side window was fixed as well. First I thought it had to be kept completely transparent, but a large part has to be painted! When painting the bomb bay of this plane, do keep this in mind :D
21764550633_8cb8116477_b.jpg
213. Since such a large area of the clear part will be visible in the interior, I decided to mask the inside as well as the outside, to prime it and to paint it RLM02. As a template I simply used the Eduard mask sheet, after having fixed the original Eduard mask to the outside.
22197915128_dbafeaa46d_b.jpg
214. Exact fit (logically):
22396396881_68319b0bc0_b.jpg
215. Priming: I masked part of the ('lighted') bomb bay.
22197914788_bc00a356ca_b.jpg
216. The upper wing part is partly part of the interior. Add a bit of RLM66... hey folks don't forget this right? :D :D
22359652916_56ddc7ecbb_b.jpg
217. The interior was thoroughly updated. RLM66 on the seats where the artificial shadows were applied too far, dots of white oil paint ('worked into' the model) where lights would reflect, dots of shadow brown oil paint where shadows would occur, about three spots where a bit of chipping was added, a turning handle that I hadn't noticed before was given a blue color (knob) and aluminium (lever)... and more. All of this took me at least an hour. At first sight there seems to be little difference, but in my view it's more realistic now.
22197643860_c0990fa53f_b.jpg
218. The wheel for closing the bomb doors (and the slots for the 250KG-bomb racks) was enhanced by a pencil. Simple method, (to me a) convincing result.
22359652596_cc3844a20c_b.jpg
219. And then, finally, a use for Gator's GRIP glue. This seemed to be the right glue to fix the bomb door wheel cable with. Be quick though: add glue, swiftly add cable (=Uschi van der Rosten rigging wire "fine") and then add another layer of glue. I used Gator's Grip thin blend, hoping it wouldn't dry as fast.
22198796849_5d7e5486a8_b.jpg
220. This is what it now looks like.
22197914768_182e4e5deb_b.jpg
221. Finally, time for the marriage of wings and fuselage.
22359655846_803686c441_b.jpg
Totally spent time: 82 hours.
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Amazing detail there Roy - lovely work :)

Thanks for the tip about 'reverse' masking using the 'hole' left by the original mask - clever!

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Thanks CedB, sometimes we have to make it easy for ourselves... I saw the 'hole' on the sheet and thought... recycle! :)

@ArmouredSprue: thank you very much for following this thread!

221. The lower wings are fixed, glued with Gator Glue (which, as I've explained before, is totally different from Gator's Grip glue, often wrongly referred to as Gator Glue).
22382702972_ef5d5c0720_b.jpg
222. After 45 minutes of drying time I started sanding the fuselage.
22406645301_e7a7275f02_b.jpg
223. The gaps near the wing roots and the wing parts are filled with thick CA + accelerator, thereafter filed.
22209016979_0a5b61dfdd_b.jpg
224. CA glue in this spot may look risky...
22208137748_e524d3d9b0_b.jpg
225. ... but is smooth within short time. The clue is to first use the file, then sanding paper coarse, then sanding paper medium.
22207853910_0e497970ba_b.jpg
226. Layer of silver, after which deficiencies still appear present. Those get CA again (see picture hereunder). File and sand again, CA again, then it's flat.
21773097914_8b037a03de_b.jpg
227. Quite a bit of work, but the result is satisfactory. Port side (picture: right area) is finished. Compare left with right.
22209175269_146327979e_b.jpg
228. Don't forget to sand off the silver afterwards...
22396138245_4c06816fcf_b.jpg
Total spent time: 85 hours.
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Thanks Martin :)

229. Even the smallest pits need filling. The smaller they are, the less work.
21845802913_0131de8097_b.jpg
230. The nacelles fronts are glued with liquid poly. If I used Gator Glue, gaps would remain visible; liquid poly makes you press and deform the plastic a bit.
22477948391_bbd445f154_b.jpg
231. To sand curved shapes that are not easy to reach I use this sanding help.
22279011440_a55999a5cf_b.jpg
232. Imprecise fitment of the horizontal tailplane really affects the final view of an airplane model. Unfortunately this can still be often seen in build reports. It's important to align properly, see the arrows on the picture.
22279286918_575970d914_b.jpg
233. Some gaps in the tailplane are filled.
21845820073_ff58b6a0d3_b.jpg
234. The twin rudders are positioned similarly. The pedals in front of the pilot seat are in a corresponding position.
21845794083_9b12cc2802_b.jpg
235. The horizontal tailplane consists of an upper part and two bottom parts. To prevent seams, it's best to use liquid poly, press the parts together and immediately sand them a bit so that gaps are filled with the sanding dust. 15 minutes later, everything is sanded smooth. The plastic is welded together and no seams are seen.
21844246864_fb71c3ee98_b.jpg
236. Further filling...
22466971945_b0cd399d16_b.jpg
237. This plane has two vertical stabilizers. They need to be perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer. Again, align well!
22477936261_0da1852a0a_b.jpg
238. Consider repairing a molding deficiency, by simply sanding a bit.
22477938131_6b9bbb7f17_b.jpg
239. Ready and in place.
22279001910_ba3c6fb566_b.jpg
239. Small issue: the landing gear struts are positioned slightly outward. They need to be perpendicular to ground level, just like the other famous German bombers.
22279281768_4846975c31_b.jpg
240. This can be seen more in detail in this short video: click.
241. First Kagero's drawing is measured: vertical distance between spinner centre and wheel axle centre. According to Kagero (hardly a guarantee, but well... better than nothing) that's 27,52 mm. Comparing this to the model should answer the question if a piece should be added or deleted. See picture: removal it shall be!
21845806283_96934c24dd_b.jpg
242. To the inner side of the struts very carefully a cut is made with a micro saw.
21844259494_3160ef8d06_b.jpg
243. Then it's sanded a bit.
22466994405_bcf70742e0_b.jpg
244. Next, simply bend the non-cut side, glue the cut side (Gator Glue provides a lot of strength) and ready.
As it was:
22279021910_4de14f978b_b.jpg
245. As it became:
22477951101_ab81496096_b.jpg
246. All this dryfitting work is not beneficial for the flimsy landing gear construction. Problem is, that it cannot be fixed or removed in an easy way because the fit is so narrow. One or two breaks are easily glued with Gator Glue, but the starboard specimen was, after a lot of dryfitting, broken in so many places that I simply decided to take a new one from the spare box.
I advise to grab this part, while positioning or removing, only with pointy tweezers and only in one of the three marked spots. This strongly diminishes the chances of breaking or bending.
22441307306_ce3135d09b_b.jpg
247.The result: all four landing gear legs now touch ground.
22453624502_45c7d977a4_b.jpg
Total spent time: 91 hours.
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