TobHol Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Hi Tobias, I guess that would work well and a very good idea. The thing is that the instructions call for foam (another thing that I think should have been in the box) to be pushed into the holes of each of the bay's before they are installed so as to 'push back' once they are poked through the hole and I think to stop them from falling into the abyss. I wanted to get the cockpit floor and bulkhead into the fuselage relatively early on in the build so that I could at least see how much of the cockpit would be able to be seen through the windows in order for me to determine how much or how little work to do to the parts. Eric. Thanks Eric, Since you are building the model before me I can look at you to decide how visible the cockpit is ;-) I will put crew members in the seats and don´t do much detailing otherwise. The problem is to find suitable figures that looks like airliner pilots, or at least is a good start for pilots. /Tobias Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moaning dolphin Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Hi Bob, I am interested to hear what other criticisms you have heard about the kit so I can keep an eye out for them. Eric. Its more about the general whining of the actual kit rather than any build problems, such as why bother, no one wants a concord that size and it'll look like a travel agent model kit and other general disparaging remarks. There were points about the nose shape as well, which you are dealing with nicely. I think a lot of the negative comments came from people who were disappointed it wasn't another mainstream Spitfire or Me109! . Looking forward to more progress on this. Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egalliers Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Nice idea Tobais! not too long to go and you will see how much can be seen. Thanks for the feedback Bob. I reckon they would have sold a few of these kits. Mine has No. 56 handwritten inside the resin nose cone which I am presuming is the serial number. Onto the clear parts. As I wish to have my model with the clear parts fitted and not painted black, I had to get moving on cutting and fitting the clear parts supplied with the kit. As mentioned before the clear parts were represented in the instructions and in the parts key as nicely shaped parts and one could be led to believe that this job would be fairly easy. What is supplied in the kit however is two rather crude clear plastic shapes and it is up to the modeller to cut the parts to fit the kit. Here is the front windscreen. Notice the rather complicated shape that it has to fit into. And here is the same part fitted into place. I cut out the shape fairly close with scissors and then sanded and trimmed the part until it fitted into place. A fairly risky operation but I didn't have to use the spare, so I was pretty happy. There will be alot of masking in this area to provide the window frames, to ulitmately provide square shaped glass. Same deal with the visor. The visor that can be seen in the photo below was much larger and has been trimmed. I taped it tightly to the nose/fuselage combo and then marked out the rough shape with a black texta Same process as before, trim,sand,trim,sand etc etc.... came up quite nicely. Nose down More soon. Eric. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moaning dolphin Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Nice work on that glazing, it doesn't look an easy fit at all, hopefully it'll polish up nicely and really show off the interior. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romeo Alpha Yankee Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Following this one in stereo Eric. If it is anything like you other builds it will by a beaut! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egalliers Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share Posted September 26, 2015 Onto some more work. I have painted the insides of the intakes using my tried and tested Tamiya fine surface primer under 3 coats of Mr Surfacer White 1000 shot through my iwata airbrush followed by a coat of tamiya clear. I have then polished the surface with tamiya polishing compound buffed with a cloth polishing wheel in a cordless Dremel. You can see the difference the polishing makes with the shine on the intake on the right. I am still on the fence as to how I want to depict the finished model, whether in flight, parked or at the point of takeoff. I reckon it will look cool at the point of just before lift off and am hoping to achieve that look. There are a number of challenges to overcome however, and this is one of them. The undercarriage has been designed with the model parked, so the nose gear oleo will need to be extended if it is to be represented as per the above. The kit gear has brass tube embedded into the resin parts for strength. I cut the oleo from the nose gear leg and immediately ran into a problem where the tube that is in the leg is offset towards the front, so it wasn't going to be as easy as sliding in some new metal and building up from there. I was able to drill in some smaller diameter rod and then extend the oleo 4mm which I reckon will look about right for a nose gear that has no weight on it. A quick mock up of what I am aiming for. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy wood Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 Some great progress but I am quite shocked at the amount of work you have to put in for the price you have had to pay for this kit. For example, at the price they charge I would have expected proper transparencies to be provided 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redcap Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 Outstanding progress and modelling skills are in evidence here. Given the standard and amount of work you are engaged in to 'pull this together', I rather suspect many more of these massive Concord kits will get started and then abandoned than will ever be finished. I have to say, I am surprised by HpH with this particular model as their 1/32 resin kits are like Tamiya models cast in resin! Keep up the fabulous work and craftsmanship! Gary 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F4u Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 What a monster of a kit ! I was interested what this kit was going to be like ? ( I suppose I was hoping it was going to be like there resin kits as has been said above they are good ). You are putting in a great deal of effort to make it work for you and I admire your skills, I will be following this all the way ! Keep up the good work. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobHol Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Now, this got really exciting. You don't make it easy for you, this is modelling at it's best! Have you found some crew members yet? /Tobias Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangerine_sedge Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Great decision to model it during take off (it's an iconic image in the history of flight), but how are you going to get it to balance on the wheels? I assume metal rods all the way from the airframe, through the legs and into a baseboard? Anyway, I'm sure that you'll find a way to make this work. Keep up the excellent work, it's great to see someone building this beast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpc7676 Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Lovely work as usual Eric. I sure wouldn't buy or tackle the kit for the following reasons: 1. The price 2. The size (where the hell would I put it) 3. It's an airliner........ yawn But for these reasons you have my utmost respect tackling what is a beast. Keep up the good work. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 It's very good to see one of these beasts being built, great job on those parts ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacificmustang Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 what the? Did you misread the scale on the box Eric? LOL Interested in seeing this one progress By the way, those Dremel stylus' are a great tool aren't they? I bought one on your recommendation Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 3. It's an airliner........ yawn It's a mach 2 supercruising airliner... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpc7676 Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 It's a mach 2 supercruising airliner... An airliner is still an airliner......but yes, the closest an airliner will ever get to a military aircraft in my eyes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egalliers Posted September 27, 2015 Author Share Posted September 27, 2015 Another challenge with the kit is getting the main wheel bays into the fuselage. Having conquered the challenge of getting the fiberglass gear doors cut out of the fuselage in a neat and orderly fashion, the modeler is now faced with shoehorning the resin wheel bays, unassembled, into the resulting holes (that they don't fit through)and then re-assembling them through the open hole. Have I told you guys how much I am enjoying this project yet???? Here is the wheel bay, dry fitted together. The instructions call for foam to be fitted into the wheel bays so that there is something to push back and hold it against the inside skins whilst the glue dries. Lovely idea in theory. As can be seen in the picture, there is some grinding that I have done to the roof area of where the wheel bay will sit. The reason for this is that the bay will not fit in otherwise, so throw the foam idea out of the window! (it does however work quite nicely for the nose gear bay). Note: to get the large part of the wheel bay through the hole, some of the corners of the part need to be taken off for it to fit inside. Here can be seen the wall of the wheel bay and how much it needs to be sunk into the hole (no roam for foam here!) Once the bay fits, it is a simple matter of sliding it around and then positioning it so that the walls can be glued into place followed by moving it around so that 30 minute epoxy can be applied to the inside of the wing and then allowed to set. Its important not to mess this part up as there really isn't any turning back! The upside to getting the bays in is that the model now sits on its undercarriage and it looks quite the beast. In the following two pics you can see the effect that extending the nose oleo has had on the sit of the model. Now I can play around with refining the way the model sits..... still undecided... HELP! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGA Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 This is so amazing! Really love this kit but it looks like an insane amount of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egalliers Posted September 27, 2015 Author Share Posted September 27, 2015 This is so amazing! Really love this kit but it looks like an insane amount of work. its not that much work TGA. Considering that I have only had the kit for just over a week, it seems to be going together quickly. One more update before bed. I was not quite happy with the nose gear. Hph have managed to incorporate metal rods into the resin castings which is great for strength. The struts on each side of the nose gear are round, and Hph will have you modifying each one to attach the square section onto. This is sort of OK, but I decided to go one step further. Here is the nose gear leg. I have already modified the left side strut. As can be seen the right side is still round. The instructions call for the strut to be flattened on the outer side as per the following pic, with the replacement strut being thinned down and glued to it ( I haven't thinned this one down for obvious reasons)I reckoned that with a bit of a risky move, I could do it just a bit better. I completely stripped the resin from the strut, and cut a deep trench into the replacement strut. I also ground off half the thickness of the metal rod. The completed unit. It looks alot better than the way it should have been done according to the instructions. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Fantastic work Eric, this truly is plastic porn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F4u Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Brilliant work its going to be a master piece ! Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodders154 Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 I hope that you bring it to a show I attend it must be amazing in the flesh so to speak Rodders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egalliers Posted September 28, 2015 Author Share Posted September 28, 2015 Thanks for the comments guys. Rodders, If you live in Australia, particularly the east coast then you might get lucky..... Not much of an update today, as I spent a bit of time chasing down the lighting system that will hopefully depict the 4 exhausts in reheat. Have a solution on its way to me via the post. I also spent some time looking through a section of the hobby shop that I am not very familiar with at all, being any other area that isn't 1/32 scale to try and track down a suitable solution to my desire to have a full compliment of flight crew in this model. Unfortunately my search online for `1/48 British Airways pilots and flight engineers figures' provided 0 results, so it was up to me to make it happen. I found this Revell kit. It had a few items that I reckon could be of use like trousers, dress shoes, heads and hopefully some other stuff I could adapt. I have never modeled figure before so this was always going to be a learning curve. Using a new No.11 blade, I was able to carve out a tie, epaulettes, pockets and belt on the torso/chest and also modify the head to depict the headset headband. I then fitted the microphone and ear cups from plastic card. I then modified some legs and arms to fit the captains position. I will cast copies of the body so that I can use it on the other three crew positions and then adapt other arms to suit once I can identify where each crew member would have had their hands at the point of rotation, To add some difficulty I will also give a couple of the crew members short sleeved shirts. Here is a mock up of the Captain. I have to do a bit of filling on the gaps in the arms and elbow where each part has been cut to reposition it. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Awesome. Simply awesome. Cheers, Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) How on Earth have I missed this until now? Bonkers size, but I am delighted to be watching someone else build it (and Australia is far enough away for my Mrs not to get worried that I'll buy one too!) Those Revell 1/48 RAF figures are excellent for the price - I have a couple of sets that are destined to change service to the Fleet Air Arm in due course. The alternative is beautiful but expensive and brittle resin that is much harder to adapt (but then you'd know all about expensive resin with this kit...). I'm hooked. I go to Yeovilton fairly regularly, so if you find you need specific pictures of the real thing then just shout. Mind you, Concorde is pretty well documented on the web. I left the RN 18 years ago, but still recall being on Fishery Protection patrol off Land's End and feeling the whole ship shake as Concorde accelerated through Mach 1 overhead. Impossible not to smile at the memory. Edited September 28, 2015 by Ex-FAAWAFU 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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