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***FINISHED*** 1/72 Piasecki HUP 2: 58S Aéronautique Navale


milktrip

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Thank you Nigel,

Regards the railway show; I was hoping to but my sister is coming to stay for the weekend so I won't be able to manage either day. I should be at the next club night, if your questions an wait until then?

Soldered brass angle!? wow! looking forward to see what you come up with.

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Thank you Mark,

I was quite surprised but pleased at the fit of the pit glass too. It did need a little filler around the edges to sharpen them up a bit.

more progress:

It has legs!

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as mentioned, I applied some filler around the edge of the canopy and sanded that smooth. The clear parts have now been masked and some alclad aqua gloss applied to seal the edges. for the hole in the top (front rotor) I used some krystal Klear, this should stop any unwanted paint and dust entering the cabin (the Krystal Klear was added prior to masking, just incase any stray specks of dust managed to foul the canopy - one bit did earlier but luckily a thin tamiya cotton bud, bent at the end, was small enough to fit through and remove the offending item) . I still need to plug up the bottom air intake.

The legs / struts / Oleo have been fitted. It was quite a challenge to get the oleo struts soldered to the A frame section which has resulted in quite a large dollop of solder (I've filed most of this down but it should be hidden by the wheels anyway). Tonight I finished fitting the brake lines and pleased with the progress I thought it best to leave it at that. Now that the HUP has some legs, I can finish adding some sticky out bits to the underside, then fit some grab handles. Once thats done I think I may be ready for some primer.

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thanks for looking

Cheers

Aaron

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Cheers guys.

I wonder if this HUP works out Colin :P

Finished most of the sticky out bits (the rest will be done later). Applied some primer and can see some areas that need some attention but overall not bad. I stuck a short length of plastic rod in place of the rear wheel; this is to raise it up to ease priming and painting, it will be removed once thats all done.

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theres a slight ridge on the top seam and also a blob of glue from fitting the handholds which can be seen in this photo.

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I can clean and fill these (and some other areas too) then apply some Archer's raised louvre decals (cut to size) around the front rotor to represent the raised bits that appear here. This will be followed by another coat of primer and going well I can see about applying some HGW rivets.

cheers for looking

Aaron

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It is indeed Nigel, very pleased that theres some primer on now. Might be a few days before I get a chance to paint but when I do I'm going to try and attempt some chipping.

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thanks Louie,

Sort of; I have some of the AK interactive worn effects (chipping solution) which from what I've read is pretty much just the same as the hairspray method.

cheers

Aaron

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I hope it does work Craig :unsure: I've never tried it before.

Whilst I'm here a wee update, but no photos. I've finished adding all the sticky out bits and applied filler where required, sanded too.

After another coat of primer I thought I'd go about placing the HGW rivets. They look very good and thought they'd be quite subtle (in fact they may end up lost after the coats of paint). Anyway, they suggest a base surface of Mr surfacer 1000 or Mr surfacer primer. I used Mr surfacer 1000 from a rattle can, then brushed on some Mr Mark Softer (as suggested). After placing the first set of free line rivets I noted that I couldn't see them against the grey primer (the rivets are a greyish colour too). So I gave up on using them and went for some archers raised rivets instead. I also noted when using the HGW free line rivets than I couldn't cut a thin strip with a hobby knife without the film coming away too; I had to use scissors which is not a great hardship but just a bit of a pain. I think I will try the HGW ones again on a test piece to get use to them, and place them on a white primer as well! The archers ones have gone down nicely so far, just the underside to do. I'll maybe have this finished this evening.

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It will be interesting to see how the HGW and Archer rivets compare. I was planning to give my Gazelle a white primer coat (just for the pale blue underside) so that should work with the HGW rivets I now have on order. Thanks for all the useful advice and looking forward to seeing this on Tuesday.

Nigel

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I too use a pair of quality scissors to cut the Archers rivets for my Lynx last year, they worked very well. I was a little dissapointed with the quality of the Archers product. In that half of each of the three sheets I receiver were unusable, I returned said items to Archers for replacement but all he did was replace what I couldn't use. Hardly decent bottom!

At the equivent of forty quid a sheet I was a little miffed.

Colin

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Thats a shame about your experience with the Archers product Colin, I have a few sheets of their small scale stuff and so far they have been okay. But considering what you paid I would be a little miffed too, maybe more than a little.

Rivets done and final coat of primer applied. I should point out that the location of the rivets are in no way suppose to represent the real thing, they are more for artistic licence and to add some interest to the surface.

Some sections went a bit askew and look bad in the photo but in reality are not too bad.

photos taken after a riveting night (see what I did there)

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and photos taken this morning after a coat of primer

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I've also cut out some windows from clear plastic sheet

next update should see some paint :)

cheers

Aaron

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The rivets are looking very good Aaron, even if the pattern is somewhat non prototypical. I think you've got them just about right. Yes, re the Archers rivets but the cost was down to our kak exchange rate and UK postage. I'd love to use more but at 21:1 to the UK pound, in future, I'm going to have to make them by hand!!!! Ha!

Colin

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Hand made?!? wow. How would you do that?

That sucks with regards the exchange rate; not sure if this would make a significant difference but around last christmas time (I think) Archers were doing a promotion with world wide free shipping with orders over something I can't recall. Just by chance I made my order at the same time so saved a bit of money. Maybe worth checking their site around the festivities to see if they do a similar deal.

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It's looking good. The rivets give it the protoypical look and feel- glad you're not concerned with what all the "rivet counters" out there may think... if it's that big of a concern to them, let them build thier own helicopter.

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Thank you very much for the feedback guys.

I must say that at the start of this build part of me was a bit concerned I would give up, thinking how much work might be needed. However, so far I've really enjoyed building this kit, it really has been fun. The comments are also helping me keep going.

I don't have a photo update yet but I've applied the under coat of paint (Mr Color 352 Chromate yellow primer with mr Hobby H47 emerald green along the stakes and window frames), this was sealed with Testors dull cote from a rattle can. This morning I sprayed on some MIG chipping fluid (instead of the AK stuff). This is currently drying and in about 15 minutes I'll hopefully apply the top coat of paint, Mr Hobby H328 FS15050 Blue.

If it goes well, then I should have some photos of a painted model. If it goes horribly wrong there will be photos of a mangled mess :)

Oh, P.S. I noticed I missed a few details so stuck them on last night. these were the nav lights and some hand holds that stick out just above the windows (I think they are hand holds).

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Hello again.

undercoat as mentioned above.

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This is the chipping fluid I used

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Followed by the top coat of paint. I'm afraid the photos are quite dark ( I've edited them to help you see a bit better, but they are not ideal)

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Paint was still a bit wet when I took the photos. Hopefully by tonight it will have dried enough and I'll give the chipping a go. There won't be much as I'm going on the premise that these aircraft were still pretty new during the Indochina war. However, having never used this technique before it may end up looking pretty beaten up...

cheers

Aaron

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