Bf 109 E-4 - Adolf Galland - Airfix 1/72 ** Finished **

[stevehnz]

Ced, for good painting instructions, go no further than the pdf of Eduard's 1/48 kit of Galland's machine Scroll down to the 2nd last page & its all there. You'll see the the decals from the BoB Experience set have all the markings you want the only question mark would be over the angle of the chevron marking. Alternatively Techmod sheet 72078 also has this machine on it.

Steve.

[AlexN]

My favourite historical book is The Narrow Margin, by Derek Wood with Derek Dempster, on which the BoB film is based, I believe. It is in a diary format for the most part, with an enormous number of archive photos (all B+W, except for the front cover with scrambling Spitfire pilots from the film, and a pair of silhouetted He 111s over the sea, on the back). It is probably long out of print, but I did find quite a few copies for sale on Amazon a few years ago, when I was thinking of replacing mine, which fell apart very early on (1970!) with overuse and poor paperback binding quality. As I remember, there are some photos of Herr Galland in it.

The book also shows the extreme knife-edge that Britain was on during the Battle, and Britain might be said to have been saved by a lost He 111 crew over London, and the immediate repercussions. That is a really gross oversimplification, but it marked a clear turning point in the Battle, which gave a bombed-out RAF time to breathe and regroup.

Not entirely on-topic, but not entirely off, either.

Cheers,

Alex.

Edited August 23, 2015 by AlexN

[CedB]

It's a good site for these things: http://www.luftarchiv.de/index.htm?/flugzeugbau/kenungen.htm

Navigate: Luftfahrtindustrie -> Kennzeichen- 1939-45 -Anhang / Der Anstrich

Thanks bbudde... my German's not up to that I'm afraid but looks like a great reference

Sorry Ced, I'm ment the figure, the interior looks fine.

Hi Ozzy - ah, the 'ratskin', Stew's painting technique - great method

That figure is your best work yet, galland himself would be chuffed.... i'm sure of it.

Very nice work ced, I am a luffwaffe novice as well so will tag along for the lessons

Rob

Thanks Rob, although I'm not sure I'm the one to learn from... although I will be asking lots of stupid questions!

Absolutely nothing wrong nor shocking with the RLM 02 you've used.

Colours change so much depending on how you take your photos that it's not worth getting excited...

If you are happy, then everybody else should keep real quiet!

This 109 is going to look good!

I have just started one on the sly and I thoroughly enjoy it! A bit disappointed that the right aileron was poorly injected, hence a trailing edge more suitable with a WW1 Albatros!!!

But Mrs. Airfix is already sending me a replacement, so she is forgiven!

Have fun!

JR

Thanks Jean

Hi Ced, good looking pilot. It's a nice wee kit and goes together rather well, just make sure the mating faces are clean.

I'd get different decals if possible , those that come with the kit are not right looking at all.

Bring on the mottling! *smiley face with thumbs up*

Sean

Hi Sean It is going together well (see below) but I'm not sure about different transfers - what's wrong with the kit ones?

Ced, for good painting instructions, go no further than the pdf of Eduard's 1/48 kit of Galland's machine Scroll down to the 2nd last page & its all there. You'll see the the decals from the BoB Experience set have all the markings you want the only question mark would be over the angle of the chevron marking. Alternatively Techmod sheet 72078 also has this machine on it.

Steve.

Thanks Steve Ah, it's the angle of the chevrons eh? Hmmm.

My favourite historical book is The Narrow Margin, by Derek Wood with Derek Dempster, on which the BoB film is based, I believe. It is in a diary format for the most part, with an enormous number of archive photos (all B+W, except for the front cover with scrambling Spitfire pilots from the film, and a pair of silhouetted He 111s over the sea, on the back). It is probably long out of print, but I did find quite a few copies for sale on Amazon a few years ago, when I was thinking of replacing mine, which fell apart very early on (1970!) with overuse and poor paperback binding quality. As I remember, there are some photos of Herr Galland in it.

The book also shows the extreme knife-edge that Britain was on during the Battle, and Britain might be said to have been saved by a lost He 111 crew over London, and the immediate repercussions. That is a really gross oversimplification, but it marked a clear turning point in the Battle, which gave a bombed-out RAF time to breathe and regroup.

Not entirely on-topic, but not entirely off, either.

Cheers,

Alex.

Hi Alex - don't worry about 'on-topic' - no one else does!! It also keeps others entertained while I'm, er, not here

So last night we went to a friend's 60th birthday party. She'd taken over a nice pub. All of it. Including the bars. Enough said? And then today we had a party thing so my modelling has been severely curtailed, although I'm not sure I'd have been able to do much... is it the wine do you think?

I have done a bit tonight:

A really nice close up, great kit. It did suffer, as did the Spit, from using side cutters on the soft plastic - both had holes like this to fill... I must be more careful.

Back to the Spit tomorrow - I'm not sure I can cope with two builds at once!!

[nimrod54]

I have done a bit tonight:

A really nice close up, great kit. It did suffer, as did the Spit, from using side cutters on the soft plastic - both had holes like this to fill... I must be more careful.

Back to the Spit tomorrow - I'm not sure I can cope with two builds at once!!

That makes two of us Ced. My Spit has the same wound from employing the same method and I now know that I will need to take extra care when I come removing mine from the sprue attachment.

Great work so far and Herr Galland looks very dapper.

[Ozzy]

That's coming along nicely, your dimple doesn't look that bad.

[bbudde]

Looks good Ced. I use a small diagonal cutter for this kind of cuttings. This works perfect. Drilling out the guns?

Galland was a Geschwaderkommodore at that time. But I'm really not a specialist with LW markings. They are a bit too much and confusing for me as it's with other countries. Mostly take the decals as they are on the sheet, if they look right to me. More fun, less headaches.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/748443.jpg

http://www.armchairgeneral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116116

http://forum.aviaskins.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19940&d=1329226953

http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large-5/bf-109e-geschwaderkommodore-jg-26-adolf-galland-vladimir-kamsky.jpg

http://kiekebusch.com/images/art/Robert-Taylor/Most-Memorable-Day-lg.jpg

This isyour profile on german Wiki:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/34/Bf_109_E-4_JG26_Galland_klein72.jpg

http://luftwaffeinprofile.se/Galland.html

And another link with a list of his victories

http://www.luftwaffe.cz/gallanda.html

A last link to my modellboard here in Germany. I think some of the guys here know this or are members themselves

http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=35851.0

Cheers

Edited August 23, 2015 by bbudde

[MikeW]

I enjoy your links bbudde. Leads me off for hours.

[CedB]

Morning all!

Ced, for good painting instructions, go no further than the pdf of Eduard's 1/48 kit of Galland's machine Scroll down to the 2nd last page & its all there. You'll see the the decals from the BoB Experience set have all the markings you want the only question mark would be over the angle of the chevron marking. Alternatively Techmod sheet 72078 also has this machine on it.

Steve.

Steve thanks again - I've now printed that colour chart and, not only does it have the colour data but the top view is also exactly the right size for 1/72! Template, methinks? Or perhaps I need tape for the hard edges... nevertheless a great link, thanks

That makes two of us Ced. My Spit has the same wound from employing the same method and I now know that I will need to take extra care when I come removing mine from the sprue attachment.

Great work so far and Herr Galland looks very dapper.

Thanks John!

That's coming along nicely, your dimple doesn't look that bad.

Thanks Ozzy, dimple now filled with Humbrol filler, my favourite for this sort of problem as you can work it as it goes off, saving the sanding later

Looks good Ced. I use a small diagonal cutter for this kind of cuttings. This works perfect. Drilling out the guns?

Galland was a Geschwaderkommodore at that time. But I'm really not a specialist with LW markings. They are a bit too much and confusing for me as it's with other countries. Mostly take the decals as they are on the sheet, if they look right to me. More fun, less headaches.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/748443.jpg

http://www.armchairgeneral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116116

http://forum.aviaskins.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19940&d=1329226953

http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large-5/bf-109e-geschwaderkommodore-jg-26-adolf-galland-vladimir-kamsky.jpg

http://kiekebusch.com/images/art/Robert-Taylor/Most-Memorable-Day-lg.jpg

This isyour profile on german Wiki:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/34/Bf_109_E-4_JG26_Galland_klein72.jpg

http://luftwaffeinprofile.se/Galland.html

And another link with a list of his victories

http://www.luftwaffe.cz/gallanda.html

A last link to my modellboard here in Germany. I think some of the guys here know this or are members themselves

http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=35851.0

Cheers

Thanks bbudde, VERY much - great links... like the camoflaged Beetle! I now have the second image as my desktop. Interesting to see the variation in the pictures of the tail... I think the kill marks on a yellow background would be simpler but I'm torn as one of your references mention that the yellow had been over-painted as the kills increased. An impressive list of victories so perhaps a bit more effort from me. Hmmm.

I enjoy your links bbudde. Leads me off for hours.

Hey Mike - Me too!

Hopefully more later while the Spit is drying...

[CedB]

My Stynylrez primer has arrived so I've rushed this through so I can try it out...

The parts on here are a really tight fit and I've had to use my nano saws to get the smaller parts off the sprue. Glue not needed on some parts so the Tamiya Extra Thin has had a big outing!

Now I've got to wait for the Gators Grip to dry on the canopy before I can mask it, then priming with the Stynylrex (hopefully it's easier to use than spell!)

Come on, come on, dry you glue! More later...

[Ozzy]

Looking forward to the priming.

[jrlx]

Hi Ced,

Just found this thread. With so many in the BoB GB, I've already lost track of what's going on...

Great work up to know. All the builds of the Airfix 109 make me want to do one or more myself!

Looking forward to further progress

Cheers

Jaime

[bbudde]

Hi Ced,

Just found this thread. With so many in the BoB GB, I've already lost track of what's going on...

Great work up to know. All the builds of the Airfix 109 make me want to do one or more myself!

Looking forward to further progress

Cheers

Jaime

That was just the reason for my massive postings today. Just surfed through and put me in for my favorite ones. Now I got them in "my contest" and can watch over it. Cheers

[jean]

Hi Ced,

I may be wrong, but it looks like, from your last photo, you have had the same problem than I've faced with the leading edge of the wings, where there is a step between top and bottom, near the fuselage. I was surprised to see that on my model and had to cut the locating pins nearest the wing root to straighten things up before gluing...

A bit disappointing as everybody praises this kit (and mostly they are damn right as it's a very good model)...

Well, we live and learn, and I won't be surprised when I build the second one.

Yours looks real good!

JR

[sean]

Hi Ced, nice going, this is coming on at some rate. You'll be finished before me!

As regards the decals, transfers, they are for a replica of Gallands plane.

As well as no swastikas, the upper wing crosses are completely wrong, the fuselage markings I believe to be too large,

and I'm pretty sure the kill markings have too many kills on them, for the BoB time period. I'm not too sure about under

the wings, but I think there be crosses there as well. Micky Mouse and the shield might be ok, I'm not sure about their colours.

Sorry for the downer, but I figure you'd want to get this right.

Sean

[CedB]

Looking forward to the priming.

See below - I need to be polite and reply to the guys first, although I'm itching to let you know how I got on

Hi Ced,

Just found this thread. With so many in the BoB GB, I've already lost track of what's going on...

Great work up to know. All the builds of the Airfix 109 make me want to do one or more myself!

Looking forward to further progress

Cheers

Jaime

Hi Jaime and thanks - I know how you feel, the GB is very popular

That was just the reason for my massive postings today. Just surfed through and put me in for my favorite ones. Now I got them in "my contest" and can watch over it. Cheers

And a great set of postings too

Hi Ced,

I may be wrong, but it looks like, from your last photo, you have had the same problem than I've faced with the leading edge of the wings, where there is a step between top and bottom, near the fuselage. I was surprised to see that on my model and had to cut the locating pins nearest the wing root to straighten things up before gluing...

A bit disappointing as everybody praises this kit (and mostly they are damn right as it's a very good model)...

Well, we live and learn, and I won't be surprised when I build the second one.

Yours looks real good!

JR

You're right Jean I'd convinced myself that was a 109 'feature' as I have this picture from bbudde on my desktop. Sadly not. Now sorted (see below)

Hi Ced, nice going, this is coming on at some rate. You'll be finished before me!

As regards the decals, transfers, they are for a replica of Gallands plane.

As well as no swastikas, the upper wing crosses are completely wrong, the fuselage markings I believe to be too large,

and I'm pretty sure the kill markings have too many kills on them, for the BoB time period. I'm not too sure about under

the wings, but I think there be crosses there as well. Micky Mouse and the shield might be ok, I'm not sure about their colours.

Sorry for the downer, but I figure you'd want to get this right.

Sean

Thanks Sean - Arrrrggghhhh! Now I have to decide whether to ignore my chum and press on OOB regardless, or order some transfers and not finish the build before I go away Thursday morning. Rats. Can't decide

So, to introduce some tension on the primer, here's the LE problem Jean pointed out, which strangely doesn't transfer to the back:

Odd. Oh well, I'll just distract people - ooh look, is that a squirrel? - and sand it off. Quick, messy mask on the canopy (I may regret that later) then on with the primer:

I am in love, official. Here's some details from the Barwell Bodyworks site, which I think might be getting some orders soon (I've ordered more already):

- Self leveling detail enhancing coverage (check)

- No thinning necessary. Shake well before using. (check)

- Best applied with a .5mm or larger nozzle airbrush at 20-30psi (I only have 0.4 and sprayed at 25psi. Only clogged once when I stopped to admire my work and didn't open up the airflow. Quick blast on the bench and it cleared. Amazing)

- Apply in light coats, building the primer up until the entire surface of the item is covered (check. About three passes for me to get a nice wet coat)

- Let dry 5 to 8 minutes (3 minutes if dried with an artificial heat source). Your item is now primed and ready for painting. (WHAT!! 5 minutes!)

Well, that all went beautifully and I remembered the YouTube videos where guys scratched the primer so I tried:

I can't say I'm disappointed really, I wasn't expecting a miracle. Hold on, I'll try again... well, it's dry and it doesn't rub off but a fingernail still scratches it. I will report back in the morning.

Edit: it cleans out well too with cleaner, if you're quick. I did a quick clean though with Vallejo cleaner and back washed. Took my brush apart and no sign of residue.

[AlexN]

The primed Bf is looking great!

This new stuff might be the non-lacquer/-enamel primer that we have all been waiting for. It will be interesting to see what its own cure rate is; its tenacity on unprepared(-ish) styrene (including masking tape(s); reaction of the various topcoats available to it; anything else (fingerprint absorption?).

I am watching progress with this stuff with keen interest.

Possibly the name - Stynylrex - comes from Styrene-Nylon-Resin-x. A bit like ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene).

Cheers,

Alex.

PS - Bother, I didn't mean to bump the page, sorry! Should have counted (grimace).

PPS - I wouldn't go scratching it right away, well, within 24 hours of spraying, anyway - paint needs (all surface coatings need) to be given a chance. I am always wary of YouTube and its denizens wink grin scratching-head-type-thingy.

Edited August 26, 2015 by AlexN

[CedB]

Thanks Alex

Please don't worry about 'bumping the page'... how would you know?

Good points about the curing and YouTube videos. Of course I leapt out of bed (well, metaphorically at least) and it is hardening... it still scratches with a fingernail if you press hard but not as easily AND it passed the tape test this morning - I pressed some Tamiya tape across the wing, rubbed it down and pulled it off. No damage.

I must also admit at this stage that I also hadn't washed the parts.

I had intended to use a new technique (for me) of wiping the whole model off with IPA after the sanding stage to also remove any dust, but I forgot in my excitement

I HAD wiped the fuselage where I had sanded the joins - I've just had a scratch at those and it does seems better there.

SO in summary goes on well, levels well, cures overnight (enough for tape) and only scratches if you try hard. Good enough for me, but I guess we should wait and see if it takes paint?!

[AlexN]

Excellent! , as Davros was wont to purr (probably the late Michael Wisher's most spine-chilling role). This bodes well for the paint, depending on what it is, so all my fingers and toes are double-crossed (that will teach me).

With regard to page-bumps, I think that BM flips over at 20 posts; the Oz Woodworkers' Forum does so at 15 and I kept kept an eye on it, narrative-wise, a bit. Anyway, the point seems moot so I won't worry about it.

Cheers,

Alex.

[CedB]

I remembered that I had some success spraying H24 yellow and confidently poured it, flow improver and thinners into by AB this morning. I tried to achieve a 'skimmed milk' consistency as recommended, although, as I've never put skimmed milk in my airbrush, I have no idea what that looks like

You know what's coming, don't you...

To continue Alex's Davros quotes, 'Exterminate. EXTERMINATE'. Not a happy bunny.

I added some retarder too before spraying the cowling but even I can't call that dried out mess on the tail 'weathering'... or can I?

I'm confident enough in my limited AB skills to know that (some of) the paint is drying before it hits the surface, even with flow improver and retarder. Various pressures / distances tried. I think the final straw was when the airbrush clogged and moving the needle in and out just caused a brief 'spit'. Taking the needle out didn't clear the clog either (what??!!) so I had to fill the thing with thinners and wiggle it until it gave up.

The H24 has now been moved back to the brushing area (where it belongs) and I shall sand and hand brush that mess. Later.

[AlexN]

Ouch! I feel for you! Exterminate, indeed.

BoB is a bit early for North Africa (and as far as I know Herr Galland wasn't posted there) otherwise you could claim "sandstorm" - but with the scale of those lumps, maybe you should make that a (Silesian?) mudstorm! I loathe H24 with a vengeance - at least with hairy-sticking. I almost had nightmares from the stuff. H69 seemed to be a totally different bucket o' snakes, and went on fine, probably 'cos the 'orrible H24 was acting as a suitable primer.

Do I hear hear the Spitfire calling?

[jean]

Hi Ced,

H24 is indeed a terrible paint to use with a brush. Furthermore in my opinion it is not orange enough for the RLM 04. It is actually a very sad-looking yellow!

H169 or H154 (that's the one I use) would be better suited. So long as you put a layer of white underneath.

H154 is definitely less painful to use than H24, believe me!

Cheers

JR

[Homerlovesbeer]

Are these Mr Hobby H paints? I find a 50/50 mix with the Aqueous Mr Hobby paints works beautifully.

Good news about the primer also. I'm glad I didn't lead you guys astray!

[bbudde]

Autsch. But I think you can't paint this with a brush like Revells Gloss orange or white. I would try with semigloss or matt for the first coat. Revell 15 is RLM 04. In the german official RAL Farbtabelle it is RAL 1004 Goldgelb? or 1017 Safrangelb.(Humbrol H-154/ FS 33538) I don't know, if you can get RAL colours in the UK

http://www.rlm.at/cont/archiv01.htm

Yellow: just similar

blue: No more existent in that range

green: verified by the RAL chart

red Verified by Humbro authentic

non marked: verified by FS-595b

Edit You can switch it into the english version on the top right

Who can read is an advantage

Cheers and good luck

Edited August 25, 2015 by bbudde

[Cookenbacher]

Fascinating results with the Stynlylrex primer Ced. Thanks for doing the experiment for us! Does it sand OK? Might have to get in line for a bottle.

Hard luck with the yellow - it has to be the most difficult color to work with by far. The mighty Procopius recommended Tamiya yellow to me and I haven't looked back, but I don't know if they do a suitable Luftwaffe shade.

[PaulR]

Fascinating results with the Stynlylrex primer Ced. Thanks for doing the experiment for us! Does it sand OK? Might have to get in line for a bottle.

Hard luck with the yellow - it has to be the most difficult color to work with by far. The mighty Procopius recommended Tamiya yellow to me and I haven't looked back, but I don't know if they do a suitable Luftwaffe shade.

Have to confirm the tamiya yellow as the best yellow i've come across yet. A white undercoat is still a must though!