Jump to content

Age of Sigmar - Horrors of Tzeentch


Recommended Posts

Blimey Will - that is some seriously amazing paint work right there! I knew I should've hit you up for painting tips when you were here in Melbourne. I only wish I could paint half as nicely as you do. "Freehand spacey" - I seriously thought that was a decal until you said that. Insane! You should be using my handle!! ;)

Your obviously not using Tamiya paints to paint with and I am guessing it's all Citadel and GW paints? They must have a slower curing time than the Tamiya and Gunze ranges and much better brush flow because whenever I've tried to brush paint with either of those brands the paint never looks as smooth as yours does. They're great for airbrushing but that's about it though.

How do you layer your paint work like that using a brush? Airbrush sure - i get that, but successful brush painting has always alluded me

None the less, I shall have to drop into this area more to see what tips I can glean from here in regards to good figure painting

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I quite like him but there's something not right about the mouth and eyes. It may not be worth pursuing as this will be buried a bit when he has the cape on - the collar is very high.

Cheers,

Will

The mouth looks good to me but from the pic his left eye looks bigger than the right side. This makes the eyeballs look odd. Of course, that is just my take from the photo and I really don't have any mad skillz with these. Only painted 3 small scale minis other than some 72nd figures from Zvezda.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your obviously not using Tamiya paints to paint with and I am guessing it's all Citadel and GW paints?

Yeah I use mainly Citadel paints (a mix of the previous and current GW ranges) plus a couple of Vallejo colours for brush painting. I have tried to use Tamiya and occasionally have to to touch up an airbrushed colour but it rarely goes well. It's hard to apply smoothly and if you accidentally go over something twice you'll pull up the gelled paint and leave brush marks or worse.

How do you layer your paint work like that using a brush?

The main thing (and rote advice) is thin your paints :) Brush paint should be a similar milky consistency to airbrush paint. More practically:

1) Use a wet palette - like a piece of damp kitchen paper folded in four with a square of greaseproof paper on top, possibly all sitting on a sponge for more water storage.

This stops paint drying up, helps dilute it better, and (if you use a box with a lid) keeps your colours and blends alive for days. Super useful. I tried using proper wet palette paper from the art shop but it didn't let enough water through and had too much texture, so I went back to greaseproof. The only problem is if you leave it overnight the colours can get over thinned and split. You can wring out the sponge a bit beforehand to avoid that, or just add a bit more paint the next day.

2) Use flow aid - I recently bought a small bottle of Liquitex flow aid and have small pot of this diluted 20:1 with water on my table. I clean my brushes in normal water, but use the flow aid for diluting paint. It breaks surface tension and helps the paint go on smoothly with feathered edges to the layers.

I've only done this for a couple of weeks but I like the results. Don't get Golden flow aid since that one is really toxic apparently!

3) With the paints diluted it's easy to apply too much and have it pool or run. After loading your brush (with a tiny amount of paint) unload it by dabbing on kitchen paper.

4) Maybe use retarder for difficult blends. I actually don't do this much, I do have some Tamiya retarder and I ought to try adding a bit to my dilutant mix.

Other than that it's just being careful and trying to be neat :)

The mouth looks good to me but from the pic his left eye looks bigger than the right side.

I came to much the same conclusion after I looked at the pictures for a while, I reworked the face a couple of days ago, lining under the LH eye (the red was spilling onto the flat surface below) and using the space created to hint at a lower lid. I also managed to get some lower teeth into the mouth.

20877187272_86a197a859_b.jpg

Not had the time or energy to do much after that, I did block in the armour in black ready for some highlights and then a red glaze. And I need to start the cloak still!

Cheers,

Will

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, hope they're helpful. The wet palette is probably the more important of the two IMO.

I've had a busy weekend (my wife's been away for 3 1/2 weeks while I've been juggling work and family) cleaning and fitting lights and such, but I managed to block in the armour and then pre-shade it ready for glazing. I also painted the pile of skulls for a bit of light relief last night.

20391327764_9b7eb9efb8_b.jpg

20391331304_d997eb81d4_b.jpg

The elephant in the room at the moment is the cloak - it's big and I don't yet know what colours I want it to be (there are three-ish surfaces - outside, lining, and then a sort of second outside layer with decoration and what might be a hood. Red and black are typical, brown leather might be good as well.

Will

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Small step here, but a time-consuming one. I've glossed over the lacquered parts of the armour with a single coat of Klear, and then blocked in the metal trim and other metallic bits.

20506988234_4b45dbe0f0_b.jpg

I'm a bit concerned about how much is going on with the axe haft, but it's sculpted to indicate many different materials. I might have to go over the small bronze skull with the Boltgun Metal just to clean things up a bit?

Will

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, I think it works pretty well and makes the armour livelier than a flat finish. I do wonder about doing the preshade in warmer tones next time to avoid the slight pinkness that results from red over white?

Will

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I now have paint on all the bits of the body! I've shaded and highlighted the armour borders a bit, shaded the brassy metal bits, painted the bone staff handle and drybrushed the axe blades. Still a bit to do on this, but not much before I have to do the cape.

21020117840_28aa113755_b.jpg

21208234425_c90dbfdbe4_b.jpg

Cheers,

Will

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, I think it works pretty well and makes the armour livelier than a flat finish. I do wonder about doing the preshade in warmer tones next time to avoid the slight pinkness that results from red over white?

I normally start with a mix of red and brown as a base for red, but that's with acrylics and I normally want a flat finish. I don't know with lacquers.

Great progress, axe blades look the part :clap:

Ciao

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah maybe I wasn't clear - these are all acrylics, I wanted the armour to look lacquered (so a glossy finish with a great depth of colour).

You're right, brown with clear red over would probably be better. Mind you, I like how the red looked over dark grey - it is a warm red - I think it's just the white which caused problems.

Cheers,

Will

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put on my brave face and started on the cape - going for a flayed skin/leather look, but it feels a bit wrong somehow.

21287274660_f127fbf4c8_b.jpg

I actually like the interior more and I hardly spent any time on that!

21475329935_6901ba9e52_b.jpg

Perhaps the problem is that the overall shape isn't visible enough, so I'm going to try glazing in the folds to make them smoother and more strongly shadowed. Plus probably an overall glaze of thin orange?

Will

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I've got it right now. I added glazes of Kislev Flesh (pink-orange) for the highlights, and Rhinox Hide (red-brown) for the shadows to smooth it all out. Then painted in veins and some lividity in places which might need more emphasis.

21291639438_0759789f3c_b.jpg

Fabric bits next.

Will

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks! FWIW I didn't look up "flayed human skin" on the internet, because I don't want to be on a "list", and because I really didn't want to see flayed human skin.

I finally knuckled down and got him finished off (almost) - this is a quick and nasty photo to check things before I do final ones in daylight. Apologies for the shallow DoF, it was a 15 second exposure as it is.

21821573092_2847c3e7f7_b.jpg

I need to paint the plastic rock under the skulls, and add some sand around them to blend the figure into the terrain. Plus maybe touch up the blood colour (too warm?) and add some gore to the axe.

I am a bit over painting this one to be honest - it's taken far too long.

Cheers,

Will

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I re-did the blood a bit (another couple of layers of Clear Red + Blue with some GW Blue Glaze in to cool it further) and I like it now. I also blended the skulls into the base properly and added a bit of blood splatter to the axe and surrounds.

21861205341_9b89f278fa_b.jpg

So he's done! Bit of a struggle, but here we are. I'm going to have a break from the figures for a while so I can concentrate on my Crusader for the Vietnam GB, I will probably come crying back when it gets hard though :)

I've posted some more pictures in the RFI forum here:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234989516-angels-versus-crazed-barbarians/

Cheers,

Will

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! The look of the base was very angle-dependent, it looks OK in that picture but it was clearer and more orange from above. (Courtesy of the Fresnel effect, like real water!)

W

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...