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Hurricane Mk I - Ian Gleed, 87 Sqdn. 1/72 Airfix ++ FINISHED ++


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Looking gut Ced, zebra gut B)

There is a way of replacing raised panel line using thinly stretched sprue, if the lack of the panel line bothers you enough that you feel you need to do something about it. Otherwise I apologise for even mentioning it :lol: (for what it's worth I am certain I would not bother with it myself).

Anyway, it's looking very much like a Hurricane now, look forward to seeing some paint on it...

Cheers,

Stew

Thanks Stew :) Ooh, stretched sprue for raised panel lines sounds... interesting :)

Going together well Ced. I've started to use an apron to help me avoid the carpet monster. I find when I'm sitting down and drop a part, it falls onto the apron. It's made of canvas so it stays flat across my lap. £5.99 from the Range.

Thanks Joe. The apron sounds like a good idea to catch dropped parts although I fear Mrs B may see it as some kind of sign that I'm ready for chores. What chores? Pint of bitter thanks, very kind (boom boom tish) :)

I sometimes think I've slipped back into the dark ages here in rural France,all this talk about Perfect Plastic Putty and Green Stuff ( I remember well the Squadron Signal product of that name, didn't think much of it myself ), and a cable car across the river? Whatever's next.

John

Ah John, more a relaxed and patient attitude than location perhaps... your wisdom shows through. I'm still searching for the magic formula that takes a poorly assembled model to perfection in one quick-drying application. I wish I had your skill and patience :)

Raised panel lines? Does it really matter, it looks like a Hurricane.

Thanks Hockeyboy, I like your style! :)

I'm off after lunch to a 60th birthday party in Oxfordshire (oh no, not another one) so I thought "plenty of time for Vallejo primer to dry before Sunday afternoon" and sprayed it on. I'd forgotten how hard it is to do a thin coat of this stuff on grey plastic (hard to see) so perhaps I should find another non-smelly acrylic primer - the search for a perfect primer continues! I started masking the canopy using my usual tape / cocktail stick / sharp curved blade but found that the frames are too poorly defined so I thought "In the old days I hand painted them and scratched off the surplus with a cocktail stick" so I've tried that again. With VMA brushed on. Hmmm, we shall see:

235AE5B2-145E-4879-8E9C-48CE81E44FB1_zpsCB5F092B-01D2-4A71-89B1-9976AB6059E0_zps

No more modelling for a few days so thanks for looking.

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Back from the party and on with the Eau de Nil, Vallejo Model Air 71.009 (actually Duck Egg Green but colour templates say this is close enough?). Then I noticed the ejector marks on the tailplanes:

6E3FBDB8-EC4C-47BF-BAD7-D44A173DD466_zpsB4D4120D-5E0A-4438-87C6-BFF12446A771_zps

Doh! :doh:

I am an idiot, again. On the 'don't forget to...' list for next time - check the parts you haven't filled / sanded before priming. Ever day is a day of learning - yeah, right, thanks for that! I'm sure sanding the Vallejo primer will be fine (famous last words)... just be careful!!

I also glued on the canopy - after a test fit I just went into kind of 'auto model' mode. Now I'll have to mask it.

See? Idiot. No other word for it.

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The colour looks good to me Ced. I'm hoping I will be able to attend the Avon Show next Sunday. :)

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Me too Joe! What time are you going - it'll be good to meet up (PM sent) :)

Trimmed off the high spots and applied some Mr Dissolved Putty which I think requires an overnight dry:

E3CD2B3C-79C8-4C31-8420-E6968C5C56E6_zps

That's it for today then :(

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We all get carried away some times ced! Avon show is not far from me.... Hmmmm must check what the wife wants me to do Sunday and see if I can turn it into what I want to do... I would not hold your breath!

The hurri looks good and I like you choice of sky, very fitting and very even!

Rob

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Thanks Patrice :)

My last post was three, count 'em, THREE days ago and all I've been doing is trying to fill those ejector marks. I'm obviously not using the Mr Dissolved Putty properly, or it's not liking the Vallejo primer. That makes two of us then. The primer was applied four days ago and left for about 36 hours before the Vallejo top coat was applied and it's still coming off under gentle sanding with Micromesh. Anyway, patched up this morning:

14670584-CEBC-4710-ACD8-3B708253D405_zps09858689-7F68-4E02-9319-265D6DE2648F_zps

The wheel hubs had AK True Metal applied and, as I hoped, a quick pick with a cocktail stick and the hubs are done. Painted the tyres too. I will now leave that overnight I think before masking for the top coat and I'll just hope that the tape doesn't pull the whole lot off or we're going to have some heavy 'weathering' on our hands...

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Wheels are looking good Ced and so is the underside.

Never got one with Vallejo paints, nice smooth finishes but they always peel off... Never used the primer so can't speak for it.

Cheers

Rob

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I've been on the hunt for a good water-based primer too Ced. Vallejo's goes on so smooth, but I've had the same problem with trying to sand it. It's been suggested to add Klear to it, but I've tried that and no luck. I've also tried AK Interactive's water based primer, and it's a little better, but still not truly sandable and peels as well.

On the other hand, your Hurricane is looking great!

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Water based primers (polymer) of ANY brand are NOT sandable and they are not intended to be sanded. You have to use enamel or laquer based primers (Tamyia, Gunse) if you like to sand them - unfortunately.

Cheers, Peter

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Looks like you've sorted out the tail plane undersides Ced.

I use Tamiya fine white primer occasionally, but mostly good old Halfords plastic primer which comes in grey and white. It sprays on quite thickly but 'pulls down' well into the details, and is easy to sand.

Cheers

John

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Thanks Patrice :)

Hi Rob - I think you're right about Vallejo. They're lovely to spray but without the primer they scratch off easily. With the primer, when it's dried, they stick well, if you can get the primer on... :S:mental:

Thanks Cookie and Peter. Cookie I'd like a non-smelly primer too but I think you may be right Peter... but when the primer shows up a flaw (as if!) then you're a bit stuck eh? The Vallejo site says "This Surface Primer has a selflevelling matt finish of extraordinary hardness and resistence..." [sic]. Partly right in my experience. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong?

Thanks John. I think for me it's going to be no primer (and careful handling) or Halfords - I've used it before and it is good, just smelly, so I need to spray it in the garage. I must get an extractor set up on my booth :hmmm:

So here we are this morning after another overnight dry:

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Marks still there and yes, the paint's too thick. It'll have to come off. Oh well, that'll teach me not to check properly before priming.

I shall gird my loins later and get the sanders out. I wish I'd sorted a 'toothbrush sander'... perhaps now is the time?

Thanks for looking guys.

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Sanded, various grades of Micromesh down to 6000:

3b8d9f24-d3a5-4961-a6ef-1f976c1372d5_zps9064ED05-3267-49A6-B25E-17F52D4ECB8C_zps

Vallejo primer doesn't sand. Confirmed. The ejector marks still show of course because they've been filled - the idea is for them to be level with the rest and they now pass the 'Stew fingernail test'. On with a first brushed coat of VMA Dug Egg, still wet here:

A379BA09-700C-443B-8E2C-6E6C69D8D6E3_zps

Fingers crossed!

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Lacquer and enamel based primers etch them self into the surface due to the solvents they contain which makes them sandable and smelly.

Polymer based primers (which are all the none-smelly primer) are self leveling and have a tough surface, but don't contain the chemicals to etch them self into the plastic, so only create a second skin with better adhesion than acrylic paint on their own. This is the reason they flake off when sanding. So your choice is smelly and sandable or not smelly and not sandable.

Cheers, Peter

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Thanks Sean and Rob - your prayers and crossed fingers have worked! :)

Thanks Peter - useful summary. I'll need to take more care choosing a primer in the future and I guess there's another option (which used to be my default) of not priming at all where the surface is even and I'm using paints that I know 'grip' and/or cover well without.

Thanks Julian for the tip... in this case I needed to sand the ejector marks but I'll keep this in mind where I've just messed up the paint :)

Finally I have a tailplane I'm happy with:

2BED823B-58A5-405F-96C1-582BB4086FFF_zps

or I was until I saw that photo! Perhaps a touch of Micromesh on those bumps and another coat and then I'll have the bottom painted.

What a drama Queen! :)

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You're getting there Ced, I find the filling and sanding the most boring part of making a model, but it generally is worth the time you put into it; better to do it now than regret not doing it later on :)

Cheers,

Stew

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Thanks Stew, you're right, as always :)

This is OK I think:

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Finally. Just need to leave that to dry overnight and then mask up for the DE.

Thanks for your patience!!

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See, I told you that you'd done it. I was just a little premature.Ten out of ten for perspicacity, or is it perseverance? Just a feeble attempt at humour, this thread is becoming much too serious.

Have a good weekend.

John

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