Beard Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 My word, that gunsight looks fabulous. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 I have been slowly progressing with this and have been able to get the wings together. I couldn't resist a trial fit of the fuselage and was quite impressed with the fuse/wing join, so much so that when the time comes to unite these sub-assemblies I am considering completing this before I join the fuselage halves. I have also painted the seat, prop spinner and backplate, with just some touch up required for this around the sprue attachment points. The seat needs the harness adding and from looking at the photos in the earlier posts I have to add the armour behind this so the search is on for some photos of this area. Once this is done I can then add the seat and instrument panel to the fuselage and join the wing. A few photos of progress below Just have to wrap up some builds for the Tornado STGB and then I should be able to get on with my builds for this. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 If you check the photos supplied by Lasermonkey in post #2 above and the links provided by Troy Smith (thanks guys) you can see that the seat armour was fitted to LZ-N, this isn't included in the kit so I had to make my own. After a check on t'internet for views of this area I have added what I think is a reasonable representaion of the armour using some plastic card. Once this had been painted I added the fabric belts to the seat and this was then fixed to the seat mounts before the floor and instrument panel was glued in position to complete this assembly. I then gave the interior a quick drybrush with some light grey and closed the fuselage up but only glued from the instrument panel forward to the nose. I then added the fuselage to the wing assembly before completing the fuselage join from the seat frame back to the tail in the hope that this method would give me a better fit around the wing root, the assembly was then set aside to dry and that is were I am at now. I can't yet say if this was successful but I am keeping my fingers crossed, we will all find out when the clean up of the seams is started. So all in all some reasonable progress made, I still have to determine the headrest colour and personally I am leaning towards black but I have seen these in brown. Does anyone have a suggestion as to which is right? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted September 27, 2015 Author Share Posted September 27, 2015 Another brief update. I am almost ready for paint on this now, I added the last few bits and removed the door so just a tidy up of the seams needed and then I can get some primer on and check things over. I do have a question about a panel line on the underside of the fuselage. The line in question is the one across the fuselage below the kinked line running lengthwise. My reference shows the area between the two lengthwise lines as rows of rivets and I am wondering if this should be filled in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Coming along nicely, looks like your soon be overtaking mine, havent touched it in days haha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 The past couple of days have seen me make a start on painting the camo colours. I decided to ignore the Sky Blue shown on the decal sheet and have gone with Humbrol 90, I just hope that this is the correct choice now. I then masked the underside off and added a couple of coats of Humbrol 29 to the top surfaces. After a search on the internet I have found some camouflage templates that I could use as masks, the site link is here for anyone who is interested Spitfire Camo Templates. The top surface has now had a light coat of Hum 30 added and I will try and get a second coat on tonight. I decided to leave the small paper mask off the nose so I will have to paint this bit in by hand and there will probably be some touch up to do, after that it will be a on with some clear and decals. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 well your build has now over taken mine as I've started from the drawing board again, correct to go with humbrol 90, whilst we can never be certain without a tiem machine its pretty likely R6800 was painted sky by the factory 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 well your build has now over taken mine as I've started from the drawing board again, correct to go with humbrol 90, whilst we can never be certain without a tiem machine its pretty likely R6800 was painted sky by the factory Sorry to read about the demise of your build BigStu, I hope that you have more success with the replacement. Thanks for the info regarding the underside colour. Cheers John So with a return to all the impatience of youth it was time for one of my favourite parts of modelling 'The Big Reveal'. Strange I know, but I find taking the masking off a model quite satisfying especially if things have gone well. In this case everything seems OK with just a little bit of Dark Earth touch up required along the top edge of the fin/rudder and I have to add a little bit of the same colour to the nose. I still have to remove the kit canopy and the masking from around the door opening but I will let the paint harden off for a day or so before doing this. I will be replacing the canopy with a Rob Taurus vac-form version so that I can have the hood in the open position. Thanks for stopping by. More soon. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Hi John, just caught up with this build of yours! Smashing as usual. I had never seen a close up of a Yahu IP and I dare say I am impressed. Possibly better than coloured etch. Something I may look into in the future! Keep up the great work! And have fun! JR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 That's coming along great John, nice paint work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 After a search on the internet I have found some camouflage templates that I could use as masks, the site link is here for anyone who is interested Spitfire Camo Templates. The top surface has now had a light coat of Hum 30 added and I will try and get a second coat on tonight. I decided to leave the small paper mask off the nose so I will have to paint this bit in by hand and there will probably be some touch up to do, after that it will be a on with some clear and decals. Thanks for posting this link. A great way of fixing the mask to the model I haven't seen before. Cheers, Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Hi John, just caught up with this build of yours! Smashing as usual. I had never seen a close up of a Yahu IP and I dare say I am impressed. Possibly better than coloured etch. Something I may look into in the future! Keep up the great work! And have fun! JR Hi Jean, Thanks for your kind comments. The Yahu panels are in fact etch but they come pre-assembled and the instrument dials have a gloss finish to represent the glazing. They are a useful addition in this scale especially if you find assembly of etch fiddly, and if you only want to.improve the look of instrument panel this can be done without the need to purchase a larger set. Value for money could be a concern for some, but for arthritic fingers they are worth it. That's coming along great John, nice paint work. Cheers Cookie, I'm pleased with how it has turned out. All the external painting has been done with Humbrol Acrylic rattle cans Thanks for posting this link. A great way of fixing the mask to the model I haven't seen before. Cheers, Peter Peter, All the thanks should really go to the OP, I just did the search. I too thought that it was a novel way of fixing the masks in place although, in 1/72nd scale, I used tiny blobs of Blu-Tack to hold some of the smaller ones in place and I also decided to leave the small mask off the nose. The other thing that I found useful was some extra tape to hold the masks down where they meet the leading and trailing edges, this helped to prevent them curling when applying the paint - probably not an issue if you use a heavier weighted paper than I did (80gsm). I am glad that the link is useful to you. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockeyboy76 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 It's comming on nicely John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 It's comming on nicely John. Thanks buddy, I completed the decalling last night but with a bit of a mishap, more of that in a short while. First a couple of photos of progress to date. Now for the slight mishap, whilst checking references to ascertain if the small red patch was fitted over the hole in the starboard side of the fuselage, I discovered that I have transposed the code letters . I had made the classic rookie mistakes of not checking references and assuming that the decal placement instructions were correct - just shows that one should never assume, all that does is make an bottom of U and Me. So now with the deadline approaching and two projects to try and complete for this GB, my dilemma is which way do I go with it. Do I 1. Order a second set and replace the codes, losing a stencil in the process. I take it that in this case the LZ should run over the Serial No. or 2. Finish it off as is and live with it, something that the pedant in me may not allow. If I chose this option then I would not submit this entry into the vote at the end. And to top it all off, I'm still not sure about that red patch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) Oh no looks like I've made the same mistake you have eek, red patch is a no btw it was applicable to the spitfire in the kit p9495 looks great though EDIT: I may be able to get you the spare LZ-N codes Edited October 14, 2015 by PhantomBigStu 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Regardless of the starboard side code order, you've gotten the decals to snuggle into the deep panel lines perfectly. Which setting solutions did you use John? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Oh no looks like I've made the same mistake you have eek, red patch is a no btw it was applicable to the spitfire in the kit p9495 looks great though EDIT: I may be able to get you the spare LZ-N codes PBS, Thanks for info re red patch, I will remove that later. Also thank you for the possible offer of decal codes just PM me with details of cost etc if/when you are ready. Regardless of the starboard side code order, you've gotten the decals to snuggle into the deep panel lines perfectly. Which setting solutions did you use John? Cheers Cookie, hope that you are feeling on the better side matey. To answer your question re the decals, I used Micro Set and Micro Sol and then when they were almost dry I took a scalpel with a new blade and very carefully ran this along the panel lines. I then applied another coat of decal solution along the panel lines to settle them down further. The key things are waiting until the decal is almost dry and the new blade that way the risk of moving or tearing the decal is minimised. HTH 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Now for the slight mishap, whilst checking references to ascertain if the small red patch was fitted over the hole in the starboard side of the fuselage, I discovered that I have transposed the code letters . I had made the classic rookie mistakes of not checking references and assuming that the decal placement instructions were correct - just shows that one should never assume, all that does is make an bottom of U and Me. Hi John a couple of tweaks, note in the link I posted, the underwing roundels have non standard oversize red centres, and the underwing doors are not black, just dirty, best seen in this shot. way to late now,, but perhaps of future use, Humbrol 30 is not a good match for RAF Dark Green, it's too blue. Adding a small amount of red will kill the blue making it an olive green, but even then it's on the dark side, as it Hu 29 especially in 1/72nd. There was a thread on Hu30, and a better Humbrol match was quoted. HTH 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Hi John a couple of tweaks, note in the link I posted, the underwing roundels have non standard oversize red centres, and the underwing doors are not black, just dirty, best seen in this shot. way to late now,, but perhaps of future use, Humbrol 30 is not a good match for RAF Dark Green, it's too blue. Adding a small amount of red will kill the blue making it an olive green, but even then it's on the dark side, as it Hu 29 especially in 1/72nd. There was a thread on Hu30, and a better Humbrol match was quoted. HTH Hi Troy, Thanks for the useful input and it is not too late to rectify some of the issues you have highlighted. The underwing panels are decal stripes so it will be easy enough to remove those. I had picked up on the oversized roundel centres from one of your previous discussions on the matter and I am trying to source an alternative to remedy this, any suggestions would be helpful. I'm afraid that I am stuck with the paint as is for this build but welcome the comments and will keep them in mind for future reference. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 PBS, Thanks for info re red patch, I will remove that later. Also thank you for the possible offer of decal codes just PM me with details of cost etc if/when you are ready. just pm Stew Dapple your address 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 just pm Stew Dapple your address Thanks for your help PBS. Just PM'd Stew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Hi Troy, Thanks for the useful input and it is not too late to rectify some of the issues you have highlighted. The underwing panels are decal stripes so it will be easy enough to remove those. I had picked up on the oversized roundel centres from one of your previous discussions on the matter and I am trying to source an alternative to remedy this, any suggestions would be helpful. I'm afraid that I am stuck with the paint as is for this build but welcome the comments and will keep them in mind for future reference. Cheers John Hi John a lot of decals have separate red centres, as you have some helpful folk here maybe they have something. get a measurement and ask for the requisite size. Alternately, if you have a decals with a correctly sized red centre, as long as the white matches, cut out the centre and apply, after varnish i don't know if you'd see a line, or much of one. Hopefully other suggestions may emerge! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 I was able to get the decals off fuselage yesterday with the only collateral damage being the loss of a single stencil, so a lucky break there. The replacement decals from Stew arrived at around 1:15 today and I wasted no time in getting them on the model. These have now been left to dry a little before I run a scalpel along the panels lines and apply more decal solution to settle them down further. I can't recommend SDRS (Stews Decal Replacement Service) enough, they offer great customer service, Cheers Buddy . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 My pleasure, John, glad they made it okay - looks the business Cheers, Stew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 Yesterday, I ar'bin mostly addin' some little details. So to that end the Rob Taurus vac-form canopy was trimmed and added and this has had the interior paint colour applied to the frame. The cockpit door has been fitted, a spare etch item not used on a previous build and I also added a short length of fuse wire to represent the control rod/cable between the rudder and fuselage. A further improvement was the removal of the plastic rod that represents the pitot and to replace this with a short length of micro-tubing, this just needs a bit of a clean up and then some paint to finish it off. Canopy and Door Rudder Control Modified Pitot Still plenty to do, but I feel that I am on the home stretch (nooo,the modellers curse) with this one now. Not much done today had to answer the call to domestic duties, more soon. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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