Tyrrhenus Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 What tool do you suggest for making rivets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch K Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Those "pinwheel" things are quite popular, I think, for flush-type rivets on aircraft. For raised rivets, you can buy sheets of them, or use droplets of CA glue, or drill hundreds of holes, glue in tiny lengths of stretched sprue and melt the ends over. Ask how I know... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwidave4 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Those "pinwheel" things are quite popular, I think, for flush-type rivets on aircraft. For raised rivets, you can buy sheets of them, or use droplets of CA glue, or drill hundreds of holes, glue in tiny lengths of stretched sprue and melt the ends over. Ask how I know... The 'proper' name is ponce wheel which you can buy at a dressmaking/craft store and it will emboss the surface of the model. Or you can use it on the reverse side of five thou sheet to give 'proud' rivets and then apply the sheet to the model. This is more a scratch building technique, but can be used on kits too. You can make ponce wheels with old gears from clocks, other clockwork mechanisms or small gearboxes, i.e. toys. This gives you a selection of rivet diameters and pitches. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 I purchased online a RivetR from www.radum.com. It comes with four wheels of differing pitch centres. Work very well, made from PE Stainless Steel watch your fingers, ouch! Colin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fent15 Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 Any idea for a line engraver to deepen panel lines of planes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 Any idea for a line engraver to deepen panel lines of planes You probably should have started a new thread, but in answer to your question, a sewing needle in a pin vice does the job perfectly well for me. For really deep panel lines, I use a Tamiya scriber. Hth, Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 (edited) ...meanwhile back to the riveting story line here is another supplier for the Rivet-R as advised by Colin. http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=300 Edited September 5, 2015 by mbdesignart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnerboy Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 The 'proper' name is ponce wheel which you can buy at a dressmaking/craft store and it will emboss the surface of the model. pounce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old thumper Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Rivet wheels are tricky to use. With a scriber all you need to do is lay down a bit of stiff tape as a guide and keep running along it until you get the required depth. Rivet wheels are much more difficult to guide using this method and also you can't really go back over a second time to deepen the holes as the points of the wheel are likely to mark a different spot on each pass. The marks made by rivet wheels are often not deep enough to show up after painting, if I have to use a rivet wheel I just use it as I kind of centre punch to make marks for my tiny drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Those "pinwheel" things are quite popular, I think, for flush-type rivets on aircraft. But flush rivets are just that - flush! Not indented if you scaled up those indentations to 1:1 size the aircraft would be going in for repairs/reskinning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old thumper Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 What you would want for flush rivets is a tool that leaves an indentation of a hollow circle rather than a solid one, and if such a tool is ever invented I would be very surprised. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azureglo Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 What you would want for flush rivets is a tool that leaves an indentation of a hollow circle rather than a solid one, and if such a tool is ever invented I would be very surprised. This will surprise you then, at least in 1/32 & 1/48. Mind you the boredom might set in as you lovingly indent each one separately. A 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old thumper Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 This will surprise you then, at least in 1/32 & 1/48. Mind you the boredom might set in as you lovingly indent each one separately. A That would do my head in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 This will surprise you then, at least in 1/32 & 1/48. Mind you the boredom might set in as you lovingly indent each one separately. A That's one hell of a tool actually, and the finish it gives is superb. The insanity factor might win out after doing a few thousand, but a quicker route to lunacy would be if you dropped it point down after doing half a dozen. The tip is hollowed out to leave a circular ring depression on the styrene. precision engineering 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azureglo Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 What tool do you suggest for making rivets? Another alternative to ponce wheels etc. are these HGW rivets I was using in my stalled HB 335 wiffer: Hannants stock them and even a newbie like me could use 'em Anil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 The HGW rivets are a great idea, as are the Archer 3D resin rivets that arrive on a clear carrier film in a few sizes and dot-pitches. You cut a length, wet them and then apply them carefully like decals. The rivets are printed domes that will stand up from the carrier film, which is so thin that it pretty much disappears under primer. They're expensive however, and only available direct here. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now