Pocher Rolls-Royce K72

[Codger]

Wayne! Very happy to have you back. Where have you been?

 

Will you resume regular work on the car??

[wkennerley]

Hi Codger, I certainly hope to continue regular service. Been spending 20min to an hour each night so will see how it progresses

 

Wayne

 

 

 

 

[wkennerley]

Bit more done, sorted out the wiring to the other spark plugs and started prepping the carburettor and exhaust manifold. Have noted the three branch outlet manifold does not fit the three holes in the engine, will need a bit of hot water I think

 

Wayne

 

 

[Codger]

Nicely done head gasket and wiring!

 

Advice; if you wish to make the linkages to carb and distributor advance, the lump at the rear of the carb which mounts it is too thick and mis-shapen. It mounts it in such away that the links interfere with themselves and other bits. You'd have to be creative when bending the links.

 

Also be wary of the fan belt rubber band coming apart - it's 3+ decades old!

[wkennerley]

Head gasket idea thank to you I believe - I will go and have a look through your posts re the linkages, might be an idea to at least try make them though I recall there were really tiny parts, not good for my clumsy hands

 

Wayne

[Pouln]

Good to have you back, Wayne. Will be watching how you advance through the build. 

[wkennerley]

Been working on the chassis a bit

 

Wayne

 

 

[Codger]

8 minutes ago, wkennerley said:

Been working on the chassis a bit

 

Wayne

 

 

 

This is a good time to decide if you wish to channel and move the body aft. The channel involves not mounting the Pocher spacers at the firewall and construction of a new floor. Even if you don't channel, assemble 2 wheels (at least) to determine if the rear wheel is centered in the fender - it's usually not.. A lot of mock-ups needed. It's all in my thread.

EDIT: Even if you modify nothing, mount the chassis solidly, square and level before you glue in the crossmembers. Otherwise you may get twist.

Edited May 4, 2017 by Codger

[wkennerley]

Shucks, time for more thread reading, I remember your pushing the body back but need to recall what was involved.

 

Codger, how did you go about making sure the chassis was square? I had mine out on my kitchen counter worktop and twisted it a bit till the four points that hold the brass tensioning rod were sitting flat on the counter. Any other suggestions?

 

Regards Wayne

[PROPELLER]

Hi Wayne!

About the chassis, the best way for me:

Dan.

[Codger]

14 minutes ago, wkennerley said:

Shucks, time for more thread reading, I remember your pushing the body back but need to recall what was involved.

 

Codger, how did you go about making sure the chassis was square? I had mine out on my kitchen counter worktop and twisted it a bit till the four points that hold the brass tensioning rod were sitting flat on the counter. Any other suggestions?

 

Regards Wayne

Wish I could help you by telling you what page that body fixing was and save you time. My thread got 'Big'...But be prepared for a lot of test-fitting and know that it affects the interior panel too.

 

About the chassis; I found that even with precise measurement, when you go to bend the 90's on tension rods, they can be imperfect and be a hair longer or shorter than you intend. A good fix would be to install MMC clevises on the rod ends and then adjust them perfectly; they are also accurate looking as the 1:1 has them. But this should not be the main way to a straight chassis; they are not strong enough to hold this alignment when the model gains weight.

 

In the last post I made in my thread, 3rd photo from the bottom, you can see steel pillars holding up my hood panel. They are dead accurate for size as they are 1:1 train bearings and they're heavy. I use them for weights and dimensions all the time.

With the front and rear metal crossmenbers in place, I rested the 4 corners of the chassis onto these pillars. I too used the kitchen island as a big flat surface. I then put a thin but stiff metal plate across the frame rails and also weighted the chassis so the 4 corners were in equal contact with the pillars.

I trimmed all the mold lines from all the plastic crossmembers, inserted the central metal ones and glued all the crossmembers except one. Can't remember which so you'll have to look but maybe the one that goes through the muffler bracket hole. ADVANCED TIP: should you decide to channel the body, the two very thick central crossmembers can be angled rearward so their hoops do not protrude above the frame, preventing the floor from resting flat on it. I actually had to grind the hoops way down because I decided to channel very late and the chassis had been all built by then (engine / trans in too). Did not affect strength or stiffness. You can do these mods NOW very much more easily than I did. You will find all this in the thread.

Be advised that this is all just to get a reasonable square 4 corners so you can get the wheels plumb. The finished chassis, because of added components and weight, will always have some flex. getting the firewall and floor screwed down is a big help but the now near finished car is over 13 pounds and while not 'flimsy', must be handled with care. At one point I considered boxing the inner frame rails for strength but rejected that as more difficult than I wanted at that point. BTW, I used the MMC aluminum stands for all construction (3 years worth)  and that saves a LOT of handling and turning over.

 

While I was typing this saga, I see that Dan has said and shown essentially what I tried to in one sentence. ! Brilliant !

 

 

 

[wkennerley]

Thanks Propellor & Codger

 

Wayne

[wkennerley]

So after a break of a few years I am back onto the Rolls-Royce PII, photo below shows progress to date- Sadly I am not able to afford the super upgrades available, esp the leaf springs, so will plod on with the original parts. I plan on displaying the car on stands to prevent the kit springs from sagging over time.

 

IMG_20190526_184041 by Wayne, on Flickr

 

IMG_20190526_184046 by Wayne, on Flickr

 

IMG_20190526_184053 by Wayne, on Flickr

 

 

[harveyb258]

It's good to see another Pocher build back on track, Wayne.

I really like what I see...!

 

More please.

[Codger]

I have been shining the beacon in the sky hoping for your return - and now glad you saw my signal. Your work was too good to let languish.

 

So I pounce on a tip to help - if you're interested. No need to make or prop it on stands. I cut four blocks of 1/8 x 1/4 rectangular plastic rod to the exact dimensions of the space between the axle tops (f & r) and the frame bottoms and CA in place. This effectively makes the suspension solid and it does not sag. The kit springs will not de-arch so badly. Painting the blocks flat black makes them invisible under the car.

I can dig out a photo if you want it.

 

 

[wkennerley]

Thanks Harveyb258, more to come soon I hope.

 

Thanks Codger, you know I have just been going through your thread and saw the post re the axle supports, I will certainly do that. 

 

Regards Wayne

[Codger]

-and your avatar has aged ---PERFECTLY..

[bap1609]

On 5/26/2019 at 9:38 PM, Codger said:

I have been shining the beacon in the sky hoping for your return - and now glad you saw my signal. Your work was too good to let languish.

 

So I pounce on a tip to help - if you're interested. No need to make or prop it on stands. I cut four blocks of 1/8 x 1/4 rectangular plastic rod to the exact dimensions of the space between the axle tops (f & r) and the frame bottoms and CA in place. This effectively makes the suspension solid and it does not sag. The kit springs will not de-arch so badly. Painting the blocks flat black makes them invisible under the car.

I can dig out a photo if you want it.

 

 

Hi Codger

i would be interested in seeing photos of the support rods you’ve added for my Pocher torpedo.

[Codger]

On 7/11/2019 at 5:12 PM, bap1609 said:

Hi Codger

i would be interested in seeing photos of the support rods you’ve added for my Pocher torpedo.

As it was a late addition, I don't have a photo of making the actual part. But they are 1/8 x 1/4 styrene blocks and it was tedious to cut and sand them to just fit between the frame and axles. They go atop the spring pad, between the U-bolts holding the spring to the axle and just touch the frame above them. Once I got them right, it was so difficult to get them in that I did not remove them to paint them black. But here you can see the idea - it's very simple and if you do it while building the chassis and suspension (but with the wheels on and some weight on the frame) it will be much easier. I only got the idea after major completion. After two years now on display it still sits perfectly with no sag.

Now you can do me a favor; either start a thread or at least post a photo here of your Torpedo.

First of all I love any Pocher. Secondly I love to share and be helpful to those that ask. But sometimes - there's no response.

An example is a builder from Mexico who came on last year and asked me many Rolls questions and started a thread on his Torpedo. He want to do advanced things I had done on a partially completed Rolls. After sharing many of my ideas, photos and techniques - he literally disappeared from Brit.

So please, show us your work - many here are interested and I see that you're new.

PHOTO REMOVED.

 

 

Edited July 18, 2019 by Codger

[Codger]

On 7/11/2019 at 6:30 PM, Codger said:

Now you can do me a favor; either start a thread or at least post a photo here of your Torpedo.

First of all I love any Pocher. Secondly I love to share and be helpful to those that ask. But sometimes - there's no response.

And after two days,  that seems to be the case here too. Either my tip wasn't too helpful or worth a response. A PM would have been fine too.

 

Wayne, sorry to distract from your thread - this was not my intended result. Hope you bring this back too.

C

Edited July 14, 2019 by Codger