Stew Dapple Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Hi gents; I thought I might have a change of scenery for my third build for this GB so I chose a car; the ACE Citroën 11CV - in the Gentleman's Scale, of course. The father of my childhood best mates owned one of these - an exotic rarity in the 1970s - and it remains fondly in my memory as a classically beautiful car. I always imagined that one day I would own one myself, but experience proved me a dangerous liability when placed in proximity with motorised transport, so I never actually learned to drive... however thanks to the Eastern European model manufacturing industry I can have one of my own, albeit one too small to fit my fingertip into. I thought it would sit well next to my Armee de l'Air models and as it looks like it will be about an inch and a half long when finished it won't take up much space either. Here it is: The box is... erm, a little more spacious than is strictly necessary: There aren't that many parts and only a few transfers: The instructions include a template for making windows out of clear plastic sheet: I'm hoping to produce a black civilian car, but there appears to be some mould damage or multiple small pockmarks in the plastic on the roof and bonnet; if I can't smooth it out it will look bad under shiny paint, so I might end up doing the French army option. Cheers, Stew 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Moi, j'aime beaucoup les petiit's Citroen "TA". It's slightly larger brother the "Light 15" has long been one of my dream cars. I've read mixed things of Ace, but I think they do an Austin Tilly too, so probably feature somewhere in my modelling future for that too. I haven't seen the finish of the less well moulded panels, but would a few layers of primer polished back with micromesh perhaps do the trick? I shall watch with great interest. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Blimey...having seen how small my 1/35 model was... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffB Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Sweet! Cliff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Wow! After Jon's problems with his 'big' 2CV that's what I call Esprit de Corps! "It looks like it will be about an inch and a half long" - fiddly or what! Looking forward to this one Stew (even if it doesn't have proper wings!) Edit: Have you considered ClearFix or 'Glue and Glaze' for the windows? Might be easier / cleaner than trying to glue in tiny bits of clear plastic? I've used ClearFix a couple of times to replace 'lost' windows and it's easy and, er, clear when set. (fnaar fnaar. And I held myself back!!) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 I wondered about clear fix, but, imho, it doesn't work so well for car windows which we instinctively "know" in our minds eye are flat planes of glass. Mind you, I haven't tried using it for many years, but distantly I recall it always drying with a slightly curved (dished) appearance? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Moi, j'aime beaucoup les petiit's Citroen "TA". It's slightly larger brother the "Light 15" has long been one of my dream cars. I've read mixed things of Ace, but I think they do an Austin Tilly too, so probably feature somewhere in my modelling future for that too. I haven't seen the finish of the less well moulded panels, but would a few layers of primer polished back with micromesh perhaps do the trick? I shall watch with great interest. Thanks very much Jon - I tried to take a picture of the 'scarring' on the panels, but it doesn't show up in photographs... it's like bomb-splinter or shrapnel damage you sometimes see on old buildings, though perhaps a bit less obvious than that. I'll slop a bit of watery filler on it and use the micromesh, I think it will be viable. Blimey...having seen how small my 1/35 model was... Thanks Andy, it will hopefully make a very 'dinky' (though not 'Dinky') model Sweet! Cliff Thanks Cliff Wow! After Jon's problems with his 'big' 2CV that's what I call Esprit de Corps! "It looks like it will be about an inch and a half long" - fiddly or what! Looking forward to this one Stew (even if it doesn't have proper wings!) Edit: Have you considered ClearFix or 'Glue and Glaze' for the windows? Might be easier / cleaner than trying to glue in tiny bits of clear plastic? I've used ClearFix a couple of times to replace 'lost' windows and it's easy and, er, clear when set. (fnaar fnaar. And I held myself back!!) Thanks Ced (and congratulations on your restraint... well for as long as it lasted anyway ) - it will be a bit fiddly. I think the window apertures will be too big for ClearFix or the Micro Krystal Clear, but it doesn't matter as I have just finished cutting out the 'glass' panes from clear acetate using the template; sticking them in with Micro Krystal Clear ought to be simple enough (and.. there we go: fate tempted ) Cheers, Stew 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 I've started on the assembly, first the underside: the front axle, supports for the front bumpers, rear axle and exhaust pipe: ... then the support for the rear bumper, and both bumpers attached: Every part has required quite a bit of cleaning up and for my own peace of mind I test-fitted everything before committing to glue... which did not stop me attaching the bumpers upside down; I shall attend to that next After that the, er... action shifts to the topside with the fitting of the interior furniture... Cheers, Stew 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Natter Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Nice to see someone buiilding one of the most beautiful cars ever made (IMHO). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Make sure you test-fit everything, at least twice, then check it again, just to be sure! I'd use the template and acetate for the windows, I don't think Clearfix will cut it on this one. I'm preparing to enter battle with an ACE Type 59 tank, one of their earlier kits, nowhere near as nice as this one.....Suffice it to say I'm replacing as much of it as possible (the entire running gear for a start) with aftermarket parts and it still scares me to death. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Dave, thank you, you will get no argument from me here Sarge, thank you, fortunately I have a few sheets of OHP acetate (I think) that I stole from my last employer found laying around somewhere and thought would come in handy and I used those to make the window 'panes'... I am sure you are right regarding the ClearFix, I think even though the model is tiny, using ClearFix, Contacta Clear, Micro Krystal Clear, PVA or whatever in the window apertures would be overly optimistic. I'm pretty consistent in my test fitting anyway, but it has become a bit of an obsession with the parts in this kit, which gives the impression of a Tamiya kit that has been briefly deep-fried I got the seats cleaned up and installed: ... and the main superstructure assembled: The bumpers were removed and re-attached the right way up: I used a bit of watery filler to smooth the surface at the front of the mudguards. A fair bit of filler was also used to resurface and level parts of the bonnet and roof - fortunately there isn't a lot of detail to lose here, and the sides where most of the detail is were acceptably smooth and blemish-free: I did have to rescribe the line at the rear of bonnet panels, add a new hinge-line from sprue and a small panel from plastic card: I painted the interior: Then gave the superstructure a coat of Alclad Black Primer - which I neglected to photograph, but here is is afterwards with the replacement bonnet details re-sanded (as they were too prominent) and the radiator grille attached: I drilled out he headlamps a bit as I didn't like the small sink-marks on them and I have an idea for imitating an un-masked headlight. The parts are tiny and sit uncomfortably on tinier stalks, here is my Heath Robinson method of holding it in place while the glue sets: I've still quite a lot of work to do and I have a feeling that when finished it, the model will only perhaps look okay by virtue of being too small to see properly - but I live in hope and will see what today brings Cheers, Stew 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Wow! Lots of progress and looking good Stew! "OHP acetate" from an 'over head projector'? I remember those! And spending ages with special pens and mounting frames - thanks goodness for PowerPoint! (I can't believe I said that) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Wow! Lots of progress and looking good Stew! "OHP acetate" from an 'over head projector'? I remember those! And spending ages with special pens and mounting frames - thanks goodness for PowerPoint! (I can't believe I said that) Thanks very much Ced Yes, I think that's the stuff, kids today wouldn't even know what it was, along with thermal fax paper(!), dot-matrix printers... Cheers, Stew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Good progress, replacement details look great. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I'm pretty consistent in my test fitting anyway, but it has become a bit of an obsession with the parts in this kit, which gives the impression of a Tamiya kit that has been briefly deep-fried That is by far the best description of an ACE kit I've ever read (will be back with likes later).....To be fair their very newest stuff is a lot sharper and their range of subjects is second to none, very much like Amodel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Thanks Jon, to be honest the replacements are nowhere near as good as the original parts but there was no way I could save the detail and fill and sand the bonnet and roof to the extent I needed to. Anyway we do our best and our best will have to do Thanks very much Sarge, you are right of course - if I wanted to build a Tilly (and I will) then I can choose the ACE or Airfix for injection-moulded kits but for the 11CV in 1/72 ACE is the only game in town so there is no point in complaining about it, this is the kit I must build I shall either succeed or fail ... and so far it looks like... succeed - here are the parts prepared for the second attempt at priming: ... and after, I think it came out okay, well enough anyway: Last thing I did today was to add the glazing: I'll leave that a couple of days for the Micro Kristal Clear to thoroughly set. Cheers, Stew 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Very tidily done, that's really looking smashing.....I'm a very interested onlooker here as I've got two or three of these in the stash. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Very tidily done, that's really looking smashing.....I'm a very interested onlooker here as I've got two or three of these in the stash. Ah that's interesting; if you get time would you have a look at the parts and see if there are sort of 'pockmarks' on the roof and bonnet of yours? I don't know if I was just unlucky or if they are all like that... Aside from that and the general clean up of all the parts it's been quite easy, the fit of parts has generally been really good. Still time to mess it all up of course, but each passing day I don't do that my confidence in the kit grows Cheers, Stew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Looks really good Stew - I can almost smell those leather seats! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Just checking......OK as it turns out I have two of them, one is very sharp, the other has faint rippling at the front of the roof, but nothing as serious as you describe. I believe ACE may have still been using their older short-run moulds for this one (it's one of the last IIRC) and what you are seeing may be wear. In the past if I wanted an ACE kit I tried to get it as soon after the release as possible to avoid these issues, I believe their newer moulds are a little more hardwearing, so this situation should go away in time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 ... I can almost smell those leather seats! Don't look at me - it was the dog! Thanks Ced Just checking......OK as it turns out I have two of them, one is very sharp, the other has faint rippling at the front of the roof, but nothing as serious as you describe. I believe ACE may have still been using their older short-run moulds for this one (it's one of the last IIRC) and what you are seeing may be wear. In the past if I wanted an ACE kit I tried to get it as soon after the release as possible to avoid these issues, I believe their newer moulds are a little more hardwearing, so this situation should go away in time. Ah, thanks Sarge... these cottage companies do usually seem to be pretty good at investing in their business so perhaps in time they will do a re-tool of the 11CV with a better mould; I suppose it depends how good a seller the old one is (not that it's that old, my box is dated 2009). Anyway for now I've got what I've got and it is going well enough Cheers, Stew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 I haven't had the chance to do much the last couple of evenings but I did make a start on the detail painting of the wheels: I used some Citadel Paint Ushabti Bone for the hubs with a heavy application of their Seraphim Sepia wash and a dry-brush of the original colour afterwards - the very centre discs of the hubcaps will be silver... Speaking of which, I painted the silver details of the bodywork and chassis parts: I also added the steering wheel which I was pleased to have - uncharacteristically - remembered before the next stage which will be joining the upper and lower body parts... Cheers, Stew 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 The upper and lower body sections seemed reluctant to stay together and kept popping apart at either the front end or the back end... so I called in the heavy support: I'll leave that to cure for a while, then hopefully finish the wheels and bring it all together with the transfers for a grand finale... Cheers, Stew 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Looking good Stew - and those wheels! Gorgeous! What was the 'watery filler' you used to fill the imperfections please? I've seen this green stuff on quite a few posts and I think I should get some as a 'stop gap' (see what I did there) between my favourite Humbrol (for big jobs) and the Vallejo, now restricted to fine gaps after my problems with paint coverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Ah you wait until they're finished Ced, I have high hopes for those wheels The watery filler... well it was originally a little pot of Games Workshop Liquid Green Stuff which I then watered down (with water!) to a fairly liquid, self-levelling consistency and use as a kind of ersatz Mr Surfacer; it's also handy for filling ejector-pin indentations etc. which my thicker fillers could do, but would be messier and require more clean-up. With care the Games Workshop filler - watered down or not - can be worked to a degree with a damp paintbrush or cloth to minimise the amount of sanding required afterwards. Paint, whether acrylic or enamel, goes over it without any issues. If you leave it un-thinned by water it is a fairly thick liquid and can be used for larger or deeper jobs, but I have the Perfect Plastic Putty for that sort of thing and it is, in my opinion, the best filler for that sort of thing. HTH... Cheers, Stew 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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