Jump to content

1/12 Revell/Protar Ferrari 126C2


Recommended Posts

A little filling and sanding!Mmmmmmmhhhhhhhhh,I swear to God that I've never found so many ejection/sink marks on a single piece...that's why pushing the detail of this kit further is absolutely out of the question;I'd have saved a lot of time making a new backing panel out of aluminum sheet!The silver/gray styrene most of this kit's made of is 24Karat junk,I think that the guy who told me that Revell used "recycled" styrene for these kit was right...it's like trying to sand an old Airfix toy soldier,the plastic's THAT soft in places that sanding it is a real nightmare!Too bad because this kit could have been quite nice with a little re-tooling!
Cheers
Manu
P6041267_zpswrhvmiwe.jpg
P6041268_zpstr9rs3te.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lovely car crafted from filler with some kit parts to hold it together! :devil:

The original Protar plastic was no better, really awful stuff.

I had to a look to see if I had any race reports for Imola, but I think that my only one went years ago and Auocourse doesn't have too much detail on the chassis change side. I hadn't really appreciated that Ferrari made ELEVEN 126C2 chassis that year.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lovely car crafted from filler with some kit parts to hold it together! :devil:

The original Protar plastic was no better, really awful stuff.

I had to a look to see if I had any race reports for Imola, but I think that my only one went years ago and Auocourse doesn't have too much detail on the chassis change side. I hadn't really appreciated that Ferrari made ELEVEN 126C2 chassis that year.

Muwaaahahaha...yessssss...a ton of automotive filler with a kit thrown in for good measure! :rofl:

I've never seen the original Protar kit but if the original plastic was like mine..... :toilet:

I'll look for pictures of the cars being raced at Imola anyway!

Cheers

Manu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've temporarily fitted the monocoque to the lower body with the supplied screws and taped the upper body to the lower pan to check the fit and I must admit that it's quite good....I've also managed to slip the engine into it to see what will remain visible.I'll leave off the "hump"....I know that the original upper body was a single stamping apart from the nose but it will give my friend the chance to look at the engine!
Cheers
Manu
P6041272_zpsod2p8rm5.jpg
P6041269_zpsaxro3n49.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Malc,
I'm a member there but I must admit that I don't know how to move around!
I'll try and have a look NOW!
Thanks for the heads-up and for the kind words!
Cheers
Manu

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool. Not sure what the rules are about posting links to other forums on here, so i won't. Log on to F1M, type 'spotters guide' in to the search and its at the bottom of the first page. There is a 312T4 guide as well........ ;-)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, try this. I will blame you if I get banned....!!! You may have to copy and paste the link addy below in to your browser if the link is not 'live'. No spam, no viruses, promise!

http://bit.ly/1oxy29H

126C2 spotters guide

http://wolfwr1.free.fr/html/pics/312T4Guide/Ferrari%20312T4%20%20Spotter's%20Guide%20v.1.2.pdf

Ferrari 312T4 spotters guide

Malc.

Edited by Malc2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Manu, you mentioned casting the ducts in clear resin. Do you have a favourite brand? I've done quite a bit of casting but never found a clear I've got on with! Most them don't like silicone and come out the mould with a sticky surface!?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Manu, you mentioned casting the ducts in clear resin. Do you have a favourite brand? I've done quite a bit of casting but never found a clear I've got on with! Most them don't like silicone and come out the mould with a sticky surface!?

Good question indeed!I do my casting with Axson's F16/17,F31 and F32 resins but whan I have to cast transparent parts like windscreens,lights,canopies etc I use a very slooooooooooooow curing Italian resin with a very looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong pot life to get rid of unwanted bubbles (I managed and blow my vac pump and I'm not going to buy another!);it takes up to 24 hours to cure but when it does it's bullet-hard and not at all sticky.I still have a kilogram of it and last time I've used it it's been three years ago...I hope its shelf life hasn't shortened and that it's still good.Tomorrow I'll cast a few parts and see it it can still be used.

I don't know where you live but if you contact me privately I will ask the guy who produces it if it's still available.Steer clear of Prochima because it's not as good.

Cheers

Manu

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After VonTrips' post asking about the clear resin I use I've gone in my lab and mixed my (very) old resin to see if it was still usable;it was 2,01 AM.
There was a 5mm thick crystals deposit on the bottom of the hardener's bottle,while in the years the resin had turned from water-clear to a nice brown color.It would have been an issue had it been used to cast a canopy but since the Ferrari scoops were made of amber-colored glass fiber I haven't bothered!At first I feared that given its age and the fact that it took five minutes to properly mix the stuff it wouldn't have cured,or that it would have remained sticky but after 12 hours it's almost rock-hard...and it usually took from 24 to 30 hours to fully cure! :hmmm:
The funny thing is that it's cured almost perfectly clear,but since it can be colored with india inks that mustn't be considered an issue at all!
I've cast a few different parts,from thin to thick to ascetain whether I'll have to cast the scoops solid and carve them afterwards or if I can further thin the edges and cast my masters...tomorrow I'll discover that :popcorn: ....my motto is "haste makes waste"! :pipe:
Cheers
Manu
P6051265_zpsknaflo3z.jpg

Edited by Canuck63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The resin parts are crystal-clear while the fiberglass of the actual parts was translucent and had the peculiar pattern of the glass fibers showing thru the resin.To get a nice,convincing effect the resin can be scoured with a glass fiber pen,lightly polished with #0000 steel wool and airbrushed with satin or matt varnish!
Cheers
Manu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Manu, I've saved that page and will contact them when I get a moment. Where are you based? I ask because I see you've used Axxons products - I've always thought they were a UK company? I've tried Araldite 20/20 before because it's very clear, but didn't get on with it. However, I have seen glass restoration colleagues make invisible crack repairs with it! I'm on the lookout for a decent vac pump. Got as far as I can resin casting without and now it's holding up my major scratch build project. Can't believe the shelf life of your resin, my polyurathane stuff dies after 6 months!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Manu, I've saved that page and will contact them when I get a moment. Where are you based? I ask because I see you've used Axxons products - I've always thought they were a UK company? I've tried Araldite 20/20 before because it's very clear, but didn't get on with it. However, I have seen glass restoration colleagues make invisible crack repairs with it! I'm on the lookout for a decent vac pump. Got as far as I can resin casting without and now it's holding up my major scratch build project. Can't believe the shelf life of your resin, my polyurathane stuff dies after 6 months!!!

You're welcome buddy!

I'm an Italian-Canadian and I've been living in Italy for nearly for decades now and If you want me to give Mr. Revelli a call just say the word!

Axson is(was) actually a French company IIRC,but they've got distributors worldwide!

Clear resins are a mined field...the one I use must be definitely one of the best,in fact, in spite of its age,of the fact that has been long forgotten in a lab and that hasn't been regularly stirred it's fully cured now,it's not sticky and the wafer-thin parts break like...you guessed it right...wafers! :popcorn:

Cheers

Manu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've cut the stubs from the side astrodynamic hypersonic egocentricycal strumpf-atrons (Can't remember how they're called :blush: ! ) and replaced them with copper wire to better accept 0,5 ID clear piping facing the right way,i.e. towards the gearbox and NOT upwards.I have no wasted time in that area because it'll be nearly invisible once the upper body will be in place!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And now the part that would be of interest to many,not necessarily only to the ones building cars,since I've found a clear resin that it's worlds harder than styrene and PU resin,yet it has a wee bit of "give" preventing wafer-thin parts to crack only by looking at them!It's a godsend to cast thin pieces like canopies and windscreens and body parts that would either be too fragile and prone to bending if made of thin metal sheet or that would warp if made of thin plastic card or PU resin,in fact I've tried to make a 0,2mm thin cowl panel using a piece of aluminum sheet as a master and its edges are as straight as an arrow while it takes a bit of an effort to crack upon bending it.Sometimes you've looked for ages for something this useful without realizing that it's been under your eyes forever.It can be used to make lights,dashboard "glasses" and even used to fill large gaps as well....I LOVE IT! :yahoo:
Contact me thru PM if you're interested in this resin...lurkers need not apply! :wicked::whistle:
Anyway...the test parts I've cast a few days ago are much better than expected and I'm getting ready to make the molds of the brakes' air scoops.The rear ones are cast with the uprights but that doesn't bother me at all for the new parts made of this clear resin will be rock-hard...looks like I've found the right stuff to cast copies of the heavy white metal wings found in MFH and STUDIO 27 kits! :thumbsup:
Cheers
Manu
P6071266_zpsh07awiv8.jpg
P6071270_zps7mcmaunu.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the paint work on the engine. The Alclad paints are really great and you can get some nice subtle variations in shading like you've done here. For a kit that isn't really a great base you are sure making it look good. When I get bogged down on my Mercedes build I like to go back to my 1/12 Tamiya 935 and I have a couple of those fiberglass parts that I need to cast from another Porsche kit in resin on the engine and it sounds like the resin you have found would be the perfect choice for those parts. I will PM you for more information. In the meantime keep up the good work on this one and I can't wait for one of your MFH builds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...