'Memphis Belle' B-17f Revell 1/72 (Pic heavy)

[jrlx]

Impressive paint job and weathering, CedB

Did you use any kind of pigment fixer? I still have to find a good solution for fixing pigments because, either the pigment fixer dissolves the pigments, or the clear coat applied with an airbrush makes them fly away... I use Vallejo pigments and tried Mig's pigment fixer.

I haven't been able to provide feedback lately but the progress has been really impressive. This is an excellent reference thread which I'll keep bookmarked for the future.

Cheers

Jaime

[CedB]

Hi Jaime - thanks for the kind comments

Pigment fixer? I didn't know you needed one!! I applied this pigment while the paint was still wet and then rubbed off the excess... I'm not looking for lots of particles at this scale., or as you might want for mud on a tank. I'm hoping the Klear coat will seal it in (fingers crossed).

[06/24]

It looks grand! You won't need fixer if it's applied to wet paint, only if used dry does it tend to migrate, and in particular leaves excellent fingerprints (usual, guess how I know comment), but can be cured with a waft of varnish or whatever. I rarely bother for exhausts as I'm unlikely to handle a finished build by them.

[jrlx]

In my case I've applied pigments for exhaust and gun marks and also for mud and dirt in tires and undercarriages. This is my last weathering step and I apply the pigments over a dry matt coat, using a small paintbrush. The pigments get rubbed and adhere to the matt coat. Like you, I don't use huge amounts of pigments, as can be seen in my RFI threads.

In order to protect the pigments from handling, I've tried direct application of an additional matt coat, or pigment fixer + matt coat. I've had the problems described in my previous post.

It seems that the black pigment used for the smoke marks reacts well to the airbrushed matt coat but the dark and light brown pigments do not adhere so well.

The pigment fixer tends to dilute the pigments and some areas end looking like being painted.

[sean]

Just catching up Ced and very impressed with your progress, looking better with every post. Those exhausts do look good,

Sean

[Biggles87]

Those exhaust look good to me, if a little shiny, as you say. The RB scribers are called Scribe-R and you get one blade and three scribers which fit on the blade. Don't be put by the fact that it is all in etch, they are easy to assemble, if I can do it, they must be.

Good luck

John

[CedB]

Thanks Jon and Jaime - I'll keep my fingers crossed for the pigment.

Thanks Sean and welcome!

Thanks John - are these the scribers you have? From the reviews they look as though they'll avoid the 'rough edge' problem I had with my Trumpeter scriber. The RB Productions site also has angled and double line scribing tools - goodness!

[CedB]

Next come steps 60 to 70; fitting the engines and cowlings.

Andy had warned about fitting the correct bits to the correct engines so I was forewarned, but it's still tricky. Of course I made it harder, in one way, by fitting the cowlings for painting as I now have to do the engines one by one so I don't get the painted cowlings mixed up. Oh well. You can see the 'problem' here:

The ring things (technical term) connect the exhaust on the cylinders (there's a hint there) to the pipe (LH photo) but the part drops into the nacelle so can't be fitted here. It has to be fitted first to the back of the cylinders (RH photo) in such a position that the engine also fits the mount (LH photo at the back) AND the pipe. Good game, good game. I ended up balancing the exhaust ring in the nacelle, inserting the engine, pulling them both out and glueing the ring in that position. By the way, the orders have the ring painted 'D' which is 66% Olive Brown (R86) and 34% white (R5) which I interpreted as bronze. Sadly Mr Metal Color bronze seems to be designed for old statues. Oh well.

Once convinced you have this in the right position you can mount it on the nacelle* and then stick on the casing and prop shaft - don't get glue on the shaft if you want to blow the props later*:

See how the pipes connect (RH photo)? Result! There's some lovely detail here and, if I had the room, a diorama with the cowlings off would show those up a treat. At least I have the photos! Then on with the cowling and onto the next one.

Here's a big picture of Belle with her engines fitted, looking pretty (IMHO):

Any views on the bomb bay door chipping guys? Pretty please?

Thanks for looking

* Dbl-E, score 1, fnaar fnaar

[Spookytooth]

Not sure about the bomb bay doors Ced, but blowing the props, I say chap....

Simon.

[jrlx]

CedB, I'm really impressed with the detailed painting and care you put on the engines. Great job!

Jaime

[philp]

Repaint the bombay doors in the grey. Should be quick and painless, at least for the doors.

The only way they would have that much wear (weathering) on them would be during a belly landing.

Edited June 3, 2015 by philp

[CedB]

Thanks Simon and Jaime - very kind.

Thanks Phil - grey doors, it shall be done (see below).

First coat of the camo took AGES. I tried to replicate the scheme so I hope that's right or there'll be trouble. I assume this was 'blobbed on' so I'll not be too fussy on the second coat. Ooh look, grey bomb bay doors too.

I'm having some wine tonight - I've earned it, I deserve it and no one's going to stop me!

[Nigel Heath]

Nice, skilful work on display there - excellent. Is blowing props on a public forum allowed??

[Procopius]

When I was last in London, in 2003, there were still little adverts in the phone booths on behalf of people who'd blow your props, presumably for an extra fee if in public.

[Nigel Heath]

Probably best not to follow up those little adverts in public phone booths... Just saying.

[CedB]

Are you chaps, perhaps, being rude?

I refer you, M'lud, to Stew Dappel's post here where he refers to spinning propellers on models being special.

Anything else is just in your minds (or phone booths).

[Cookenbacher]

Yeah, come on people, it's not like Ced has been known to keep track of all double entendres in his threads or anything.

The B-17 looks awesome Ced.

[Stew Dapple]

I refer you, M'lud, to Stew Dappel's post here where he refers to spinning propellers on models being special.

Anything else is just in your minds (or phone booths).

You're using me as an alibi? Me?

Good luck with that...

Cheers,

Stew

[rob85]

That Ced is all looking rather special... And not in the bad way.

Engines look great and your paint work with the darker colour has worked a treat!

Mr p if you do go to a phone box to get your prop blowen you may get a surprise as they have mostly been turned into cash points.... I think there is something ironic about that

Rob

[CedB]

Morning all! Thanks for all the kind comments

Love the video Stew - Bingo!

There won't be much to see today - another coat on the blobs and then I want to leave it to cure as I'm worried the masking for the boots will take it off again.

Not much I can do to speed that up.

[Biggles87]

Hi Ced, I do have a set of the Scribe-R File blades which I use for fuselage spines , leading edges and curved surfaces. The ones I mentioned originally are called Scribe-R ( cat. no RB-T019 )and consist of a blade and separate scriber which fits onto it and I use these for straight lines.

It's coming along nicely, but those technical terms you use confuse me.

John

Edited June 4, 2015 by Biggles87

[Ex-FAAWAFU]

Probably best not to follow up those little adverts in public phone booths... Just saying.

But how else would a man obtain French lessons or a large chest? I've often wondered why so many female carpenters seem to narrow their range so much, but clearly it is a specialised business.

[CedB]

Thanks John, I'll order some Scribe-R as suggested and try to cut down on the technical terms

Thanks Crisp. Mrs B used to teach French so I had my own 'French mistress' for a while (she now teaches English). I can't comment in the same post about large chests I'm afraid, but I understand those ladies are also pretty handy with their drawers*

Any hoos, Belle's had another (and last) coat of blobs so while that's curing I picked up the 'grumpy old man' Italeri Spitfire VB and started a WiP here. Feel free* to join in!

* Dbl-E, score 1, fnaar fnaar

[Buster213]

Just learned about decanting rattle cans myself,.... sounded good so had a go with a large straw, the type Mac Ds do,and a part empty can of black gloss, held it onto the nozzle with receiving jar, ready to get covered in over spray, old jacket zipped right to the neck, wife's marigolds... safety goggles... ready to go.... Pressed the button !!!!!! and the paint went straight in.. no mess, no traumas, even got the marigolds back under the sink unblemished... left it overnight and it all looks pretty decent. I have left it two days now.and its starting to look a bit thicker. I will try with some thinners in an old airbrush at the weekend, see how it performs. Just to test but its looking quite good so far.

[CedB]

Hi Buster - glad the decanting went well - let us know how it sprays (what sort of paint was it?)

I finally found some masking mojo and spent a long, long time masking off the de-icing boots. I know our younger readers may be wondering why I bothered, but I haven't had a steady hand for some time now, especially for small jobs like this with long edges (there's a score there somewhere...) There are guide lines on the fin but that's it - none on any of the LEs. Odd. So here she is masked and unmasked, with boots:

So, left to do now:

• Fitting the small parts, including all those guns
• Bomb bay doors
• Klear
• Transfers and weathering (a bit)
• Matt coat

There will be progress tomorrow (after I've mown the lawn) but that's it for tonight. Thanks for looking.