I hate B****y superglue

[Rodders154]

I give up on superglue I have tried many different type and cannot get on with any of the. I googled the problem and there is activators that cure them almost immediately but don't want to use a spray can on my models.

I cannot find the kicker stuff in an easy to use dispenser. I cannot be the only one who hates superglue

Rodders

[ancient mariner]

I hate an all........................the devils sticker of choice

[Roy vd M.]

As regards the kicker, I've experienced that it makes the plastic brittle and weak so indeed it's not a good idea to use it directly from the spray can.

What I have done is very simple yet effective:

1) Spray the contents of your accelerator in a clean jar.

2) Use a photoetched applicator* to pick up the accelerator and apply it onto the glue. It'll turn yellow and the accelerator won't affect the plastic.

Also, as an alternative to super glue, have a try at Gator's Grip acrylic hobby glue. It's good stuff.

* For example 'the glue looper', it works excellent. Can be easily cleaned from glue by heating it with a lighter.

Edited May 12, 2015 by Roy vd M.

[Beardie]

I can't say I find superglue easy to use myself but I find there are jobs where simply nothing else will do.

[CedB]

I've bought an activator pen that has a thick 'nib' from here. Here's a photo:

Haven't tried it yet but it seems more efficient than a spray? Directions say glue on one surface, activator on the other, hold for 10 seconds.

My plan is CA on the location, rub your part on the nib (fnaar fnaar) and Robert is your Father's Brother? (Sorry, "Bob's Your Uncle" for our 'overseas' readers)

[abat]

Never liked the stuff either, but probably operator error on my part.

[Abacus]

Count me in too, hate the stuff!

[JeffreyK]

Glue on one part and then putting the pieces together is always difficult. The best way is to put (or hold) the parts in position and then apply as little glue as possible with an applicator tool. The bond is usually instant, no accelerator required.

Jeffrey

[Kiwidave4]

As an old timer I have had no trouble converting to CA. As Jeffrey says just hold the parts together, preferable with some pressure, and touch the glue to them. The less glue the quicker it sets, flooding the parts will result in them floating apart when you release the pressure. Because I have trouble in getting the right amount of glue onto the joint I always have a tissue handy which I use to 'blot' up any excess.

One warning for those that don't know... if you spill CA don't mop it up with tissues (Kleenex or whatever you call them in your part of the world). I did once after tipping my CA bottle over my cutting mat, and the pile of scrunched up tissues suddenly started to smoulder! More excitement than a bloke my age needs!

[spitfire]

CA is the only glue that I use, I apply it by putting a blob of CA on a stainless steel plate then apply it to parts with a wooden toothpick (cocktail stick), for accelerator I spray it into the spray can's plastic cap and apply it with a metal scriber, works for me.

Cheers

Dennis

[Albeback52]

Hate the stuff myself but, as Beardie pointed out there are some jobs that cannot be done without it. As for spillage and/or removing the wretched stuff from your fingers etc , try Acetone. This is the main ingredient in nail polish remover!! I'm sure most of us will have access to a bottle!! . The pure solvent cannot be bought over the counter at a chemist but, I got a 1 ltr bottle online for a very reasonable price. Like all solvents though, be very careful. It's potent stuff.

Allan

Edited May 13, 2015 by Albeback52

[Mitch K]

I dislike superglue. I can get on with it, usually, by decanting it out and applying it with cocktail sticks and wire loops. My dislike of CA though, is nothing compared to the visceral hatred I have for epoxy resin!

[tank152]

I think the main trouble with folk having trouble with CA is that they don't realise once opened it starts to go off, the older the bottle the worse the stuff gets. I also find that using CA Gel is more user friendly in that it gives you some time to position parts before it bonds. I normally use Gel to tack parts together and afterwards run some normal stuff into the joint. I picked a good tip up off one of Adam Wilder's DVDs, get some foil and push it into the top of a Humbrol paint tin and pour some CA into that, the CA will last for some time in it, I just dip a cocktail stick into that when joining parts together. If I'm using an accelerator I'll pour some of that into another container and dip another cocktail stick into that and apply it to the joint that way.

Tim.

[AngstROM]

The only time I 'accelerate' cyano adhesive is if I'm using it as filler -and that is only where re-scribing is required ('cause I can't seem to make Mr Dissolved Putty scriber-proof). The Loctite variety responds well to a drop of water, and can be sanded almost immediately.

Otherwise, gel or liquid types can be decanted in small amounts into the tiny 'bubbles' on empty tablet or capsule strips, and applied finely with a hypodermic needle (just the needle, not the syringe bit) or vinyl toothpick.

[moaning dolphin]

I too hate the stuff, but by using the gel version i find i can make it work. I usually decant a bit onto some scrap tape and use the toothpick type method. Not great but better than the runny stuff.

Bob

[Beardie]

Slightly off topic but if anyone is looking for small pots for superglue might I suggest "ink caps/cups" for tattooists. Available pretty cheaply on evilbay (1000 for as little as £5 if you import them from China ) They come in various sizes (all pretty small). I use these in various sizes for CA and mixing tiny amounts of paint. When you fill them with CA it will be OK for a few days without needing covered/sealed before it turns to jelly. I buy cheap CA from the pound store and it works just fine applied with a sewing needle which has part of the loop snipped off and Glued into a bamboo skewer so it is easy to see and has plenty of stick to keep fingers away from the glue. When it clogs a quick flame from a lighter burns off the CA and away we go again.

Like Mitch K I have a greater hatred for epoxy. I used to use it in large quantities when I was involved in manufacturing laboratory equipment and the darn stuff gave me a very nasty dose of contact dermatitis which took about ten years to clear up. Believe it or not after trying every type of steroid cream/tablet/lotion the doctors could think of it cleared up when I gave up eating bread for a while!

[Beardie]

Just a wee thought about the needle as a CA applicator. It occured to me that there is a ready made needle "applicator" out there in the wild. It is called a "self-threading" needle. I have just bought a packet of 48 of these fellows for £1.75 including postage off evilbay and I am hoping that with the design of a V-shaped end leading via a fine channel into the needle eye they will prove to be excellent applicators with an inbuilt reservoir akin to a fountain or mapping pen and at the price I don't reckon you can complain even if they only end up as panel line scribers.

[noeyedears]

I use the plastic covered wire ties you get for sealing sandwich bags. Just strip Back the plastic and form a small loop at the end to hold the ca. It's steel wire so just burn off the ca to clean.

[DaveCromie]

I bought some Zap Accelerator last year that came with a pump action spray top and a normal lid. I use an old fine paintbrush to apply a small amount of accelerator to the intended location, then dip the contact points of the PE into a small puddle of CA and bring the two together - voila - instant adhesion! So far I have applied the Accelarator to both bare plastic and painted (acrylic) plastic without any problems.......like I said, so far!

Cheers

DC

[Ali62]

I use super glue all the time especially for making masters, but I know what the down falls are ad it is really annoying on finely detailed parts or at that crucial stage when it just sticks to soon or makes a mess no matter how careful you are.

As far as the accelerator goes I use a micro brush to apply it and try to work away from the super glue, to avoid direct contact, then let the accelerator just run up to the glue and then the job is done.

I must say I ave tried lots of brands and types but I have now settled on the Deluxe materials Rocket (Medium) with their own accelerator and it really work very well in assembling things really quickly, making and building up masters. Also use it often to tack an assembly as if small amounts are used they can easily be separated and then assembled later using maybe a normal plastic solvent glue.

Put it this way I cannot do with out it.............

Ali

[phildagreek]

I love super glue.