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Academy Spitfire Mk XIVc - D-Day camouflage (picture heavy)


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Dear All,

 

This is also a model I'm nearly finishing, but still with some work to do. I started it back in December 2014. The objective was to consolidate my skills with two-colour upper camouflage aircraft of the WWII. I was also a bit worn out with seam treatment on the Grumman Duck I was building at the time (see RFI post here), so I guess an Academy kit with good fit would be a good change of affairs.

 

Here is the box and contents. This is the Academy double kit box commemorating the 70th anniversary of D-Day, containing the Spitfire Mk XIVc and the Typhoon Ib. For the Spit we have two grey sprues and a clear sprue. The decals are not shown but allow the choice of two different aircraft, either with or without D-Day stripes (which are provided as decals).

y4mjIKOkQcSBnGOntrkg-nmi0StghiZP8DSFYJMI

IMAG1146

 

The kit is highly detailed and has excellent fit, as can be seen from the following photos of dry-fit tests.

 

First, a dry fit of the cockpit parts and fuselage side, showing the excellent interior detail:

y4mQRe0Sjm46sMGAlBIsZZCNz6j9__YzD_SGD2aV

IMAG1153

 

And now, a dry fit of the main parts:

y4miNoKzIVNT5O-yfujjm3ZP4in5Tot14PsENlVg

IMAG1154

 

Here it is, side by side with my completed Spit Mk I (RFI here):

y4mUEOOeHMj3YZH1j3-t5Q5nC8azV9ZVoj4daT-M

IMAG1155

 

I started by giving the canopy parts a bath in Alclad Aqua Gloss, to improve transparency, and, after drying overnight, masked them with Tamiya tape:

y4mFwoVAit3KWvTiFonEUVCxzx_0BAH31n_7GUBI

IMAG1216

 

y4mkjtjsC_eZ1PB3pGUzrVgDF3pNB0yLQkfSi_1o

IMAG1217

 

y4m3Two7syKfdxM0WZTyviPmaStEoRMU-NMuFMMZ

IMAG1218

 

y4mWXQepcHGZivAiEgPbaEluN0XCQHiIUe5qC5G-

IMAG1219

 

y4mFRLgPxIDb5xymRlLtM9CUYr5RNY8KyQ0Q40g3

IMAG1220

 

y4mpDhAHGtYJktTtcIWTVyzqc-dHDXz7d7IBNZmn

IMAG1221

 

I also drilled out the exhausts, to give them a more reallistic look. I used a 0.3 mm mini-drill:

y4myQKT816nCiJGA_wWcrc0xU8qrQlInYzg_-h1p

IMAG1148

 

Then, I moved on to the cockpit. The instrument panel was painted: top flat black, bottom interior green (Gunze H312 Green). The dials were dry brushed in flat white, yellow and red (according to pictures of the real thing). Dry-brush with silver provided a worn look. Micro flat was applied to give a flat look. To finish with, a drop of Aqua Gloss was applied in the centres of the dials, to simulate the glass covers:

y4mZOTnxK0kTCuDo6HD0jELFPgDpQDcOwwQea-B0

IMAG1286

 

A similar treatment, including a brown wash with Vallejo acrylic washes, was given to the cockpit sides:

y4maTzvvW2FS5H0UUlBBmK8fBb9aZT27oEKTRpOfy4mFzgBx0GOUrueSFSqQ72DVhQBf_wwE8ThiZuCR

IMAG1287    IMAG1283

 

Seat belts were made out of Tamiya tape and aluminium wire (maybe too thick a wire...):

y4mjxlKVHf9Rlv4Lsx_OA6nfuEWRqgGwQPIgVQbX

IMAG1281

 

And then applied to the seat:

y4mp7UsCCA4yRqESKmX2lEbqWcrJjqEtnlvy2gy7

IMAG1288

 

The cockpit parts were glued together:

y4m3Df_arMJrWgHEUdbBsdkFQU794H4dhL6cQMajy4msx6ZKkDgu6-qxVamjaSwZj5ZDOF8IbK6GNWIt

IMAG1296    IMAG1297

 

And then, glued to the fuselage side:

y4mAQVaWQo8G5nIXoMhEmjx6HwA1L0ym4Qu5vZJi

IMAG1301

 

That's all for now. Hope you like it.

Cheers

Jaime

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I build this kit along time ago,but i can already see this one will end up better than my effort. That's a very nicely done cockpit! The belts are especially well done considering how small they are,but I must also agree on the wire used being slightly to thick. But in the closed cockpit this will probably not look bad.

If you look for some really thin wire for detailing, get hold of any flexible electrical wire, like from a broken charger or headphones, stuff like that. If you strip off the insulation (cutting it lengthwise with a blade works well, although the insulation itself can be usefull to cut disks from) you'll likely find a lot of very fine metal wires possibly copper,inside.

I seem to remember having an issue with the flatspots of the keyed weighted tires not sitting flat on the ground.might have been something I did wrong buttake care when you get to that step.

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If you look for some really thin wire for detailing, get hold of any flexible electrical wire, like from a broken charger or headphones

Thanks for your kind words and for the tips. I'll leave the canopy open, so the belts will be quite visible. I'll look for a thinner wire and will try to replace what I've already installed.

I'll also be extra careful with the tires.

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Here's a second post on this WIP.

 

I cut all small parts off the sprues and glued them to toothpicks with a drop of super-glue. The idea was to prime them all at once and them paint them with the final colours. Here it is how it looks after priming:

y4mH3-uXW6IOUuEOVXR_HdmyvwK4Z7NChDVp3xnZ

IMAG1436

 

Please note that the main gear legs and the exhausts were painted with Alclad paints (aluminium and burnt iron, respectively), after priming with Alclad Grey Primer. The legs were painted aluminium all over, but only the oleos will be like than in the end. All the other parts were primed with Tamiya X-19 Sky Gray (acrylic paint).

 

After painting with final colours, we got this:

y4m6HRQpVbWE_zG4o9ZZQJ2XaKsBgiYO6dmz5iE_

IMAG1586

 

The gear legs are already Medium Sea Gray and the oleos are masked. Most other parts were painted also with this colour, except the spinner cone and back plate, which were painted Sky (Duck Egg Green). The tires still need to be painted Tire Black. All colours are Gunze Mr Hobby Colour, which I find to work superbly with an airbrush.

 

Then, I glued the fuselage halves and the wing parts together. Fit was very good and I used just a bit of putty as a safety measure to ensure perfect seams:

y4mM74B-G92BVmIGU5l15l-m8ZAE0ymeGsGbr9u_

IMAG1477

 

Note the cannons painted with Alclad gunmetal. In the end, only the tips will keep this colour, as the "tubes" were Ocean Gray.

 

I then found out that the panel line detail was lacking on the underside, in the area were the back of the wings meets the fuselage. Using technical diagrams for the Mk XIV (available in the web), I scribed the missing panel lines:

y4mJsAiEIyTzqUKLFnjtgGMnWFtKmH1wL5WTG7S1

IMAG1480

 

The gap between the back of the wings and the fuselage was the biggest fit offender of this kit. Here it is already filled in with super-glue. Later, I applied a bit of putty, and had to sand this area a bit, to ensure a smooth transition.

 

Just before priming the aircraft, I glued the fixed parts of the canopy in place. I had to apply a bit of putty in the frontal area. I also fixed the cockpit access door in place with blu-tack, to ensure tonal continuity in the camouflage (though I'll build it in the open position). Note that the canopy parts are already painted with the interior colour.

y4mKMTN0BFA9UUWNilrYLWCsP6UtRxO6Ki1bUBlw

IMAG1509

 

This is all for now. Hope you enjoyed it. I look forward to your opinions. Even considering the build is almost finished, it is always good to know what could I have done better.

 

Cheers

 

Jaime

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Thanks! It really takes longer than it seems. I started this model in December and have been building it in parallel with one or two other kits. I'm nearly finishing it now but still need another week or so.

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I know it takes a while - I've had two 1/48 Spitfires on the go since the beginning of October and it's still going to take a while! Let's face it there's no rush! Just enjoy the process!

Kind regards,

Stix

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Hello again,

 

Another work progress post. This one's about painting.

 

I primed the aircraft with Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey, my usual "primer" for acrylic paints. I use mostly Gunze Mr Hobby Colour and some Tamiya acrylic paints. Next, I pre-shaded the panel lines with flat black:

y4mbPBzDvi4ijUu_-Jk0beoA9vGY0i6yiQLJovy2

IMAG1566

 

y4mo9LOIfNcij__R26TzKtUX88RcMabJUDtqrnns

IMAG1568

 

I painted the underside with Tamiya XF-83 Medium Sea Grey. When it was dry, I painted the top side of the aircraft with the lighter upper camouflage colour: Dark Sea Grey (this is how Gunze calls their Ocean Grey for RAF aircraft of the WWII). For the first time, I decided to paint the complete top side with the lighter colour, instead of painting only the areas that should be painted with that colour (like my Bf 109, WIP here).

 

Next, I delimited the separation lines between the two upper camouflage colours using blu-tack:

y4m-6EoFSg8RAI6LgXuezSiaO2M60fxPXu_d2_o4

IMAG1665

 

The grey areas where masked with a combination of kitchen cling film and masking tape:

y4mIojOjep0xRQS-t0MI5wNPfiK6cbXtCa2tUeI9

IMAG1668

 

After painting the second colour (Dark Green) and removing all protections, the result was this:

y4mE52dVb1Rv33Qv8iQe9cBGjayU8fhYPB5fvhnW

IMAG1680

 

y4mH8IIFoAf573h2KAatPgvoWNkuUnlEn-TnBnnq

IMAG1681

 

Some important details about the painting:

 

  • right after pre-shading, I applied Mig's chipping fluid in the areas that should have worn-off painting, and applied silver paint over those areas. This should provide a more realistic chipping effect in the end.
  • though this will be a D-Day striped aircraft, I opted to paint a full camouflage first for various reasons:
    • consolidate my 2-colour camouflage painting abilities
    • achieve a more realistic effect, since the stripes were painted in the field over the existing camouflage
    • allow me to decide about using the decals for the stripes or painting them myself
  • the discontinuity of the camouflage near the tail is for application of the Sky-coloured tail band
  • the wings leading edges were primed with flat white and then masked before priming the rest of the aircraft with grey. I did this because the leading edges were yellow and white primer works better for light and bright colors. The following picture shows the white primer in the leading edge of the starboard wing:

 

y4mXQIq2fikUbkvYw_7V8wYASDsZowWNoA1vzwjn

IMAG1683

 

The delimitation between the upper camouflage and the underside turned out quite good:

y4mfKAvelM750fmpJE0yw37G0nnazIpd_TfPghbl

IMAG1684

 

y4mC0m0kNeQ6c0bk1YgkA1ts5ZxFZ-6worNa2to-

IMAG1685

 

That's all for now. Thanks for looking.

 

Cheers

 

Jaime

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Wow, that looks great Jaime and some great tips - thanks!

If you're doing a lot of Spitfires, Procopius uses these templates for masking. Just like the mats that were used on 'the real thing' they come in two patterns and, once you've cut them out, are a lot faster than blu-tak.

Great stuff and thanks for sharing :popcorn:

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If you're doing a lot of Spitfires, Procopius uses these templates for masking.

Thanks for the kind words and the link to the templates. In fact I have a few more Spits planned for future builds and two of them are the Eduard Mk IX 1/48, which I intend to build as camouflaged aircraft.

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Roger, thanks for your words and interest. Tomorrow I'll publish a rather long post explaining how I masked and painted the D-Day stripes. Yes, I decided to paint them myself, instead of using the decals...

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Well, this will be a lengthy and, possibly, boring post... Hopefully it will be useful for someone.

 

After finishing the main painting, I had to decide whether to use the decals or paint the D-Day stripes myself. After taking a hard look on the decals and reading a few references, I concluded that the decal stripes for the wings were too narrow. On the other hand, the roundel over the fuselage stripes didn't seem to be accurate, because it lacked the external yellow rim. So, I thought I should paint proper and accurate stripes myself...

 

From my reference [Camouflage and Markings, Nº 1 (Supermarine Spitfire), pags. 12, 23, link here] I found that:

 

  • D-Day stripes were applied on 4 June 1944, since D-Day was expected to be 5 June. However, due to weather, it was postponed to 6 June.
  • There were 5 stripes on each wing and on the fuselage aft of the cockpit, painted in the following order: white - black - white - black - white
  • Every stripe was 18 inches wide (45,72 cm), which translates to 6,35 mm at 1/72. The 5 tripes occupied a total width of 90 inches, which translates to 31,75 mm.
  • On the wings, the outermost white stripe should be 6 inches inboard of the roundel's rim, which makes the stripes extend up to the wing root.
  • On the fuselage, the outermost white stripe closer to the tail should be 18 inches forward from the tail plane

 

To properly mark the stripes' areas, I cut two templates from masking tape, the first one corresponding to the width of one stripe and the other corresponding to the total width of the five stripes.

 

Starting on the wings, I marked the stripe limits on the wing roots, using narrow stripes of masking tape. From these, I applied the "total width" template. At the end of the template, I applied another fine stripe of masking tape. The photo shows the process, which delimited the area of the stripes on the starboard wing:

y4mvuyMPDBkq_KA9r_VRy-i078NG_1eB66ZNKH3v

IMAG1686

 

The same procedure allowed me to delimit the stripe area on the port wing:

y4mBNsM2MHNlAQ50irgSTbPc1tlu5Pa56xI7uYx9

IMAG1687

 

Before prolonging the delimiting pieces of masking tape over the undersides of the wings, I had to install the wheel well covers and radiator flaps in place, since they were partially covered by the stripes. First I applied blu-tack:

y4mP46TCB4ZvKFL12pKtFKzh0k_nGegrlqCHw4QO

IMAG1688

 

And then fixed the parts in place:

y4mrzeIYv6kUDYut9g5dbmenkOJ6_szIWmrhSBKa

IMAG1689

 

Finally, I could finish the application of the delimiters on the wings, using the template to ensure the correct width:

y4ml8YVhAErA-THH8PFJQ4vSxB47Qyv2Qb15DhzP

IMAG1690

 

Here's the end result:

y4mhNNHJf5mEk8SA0YO2A5V2eO6ohw2tB9cSQPSn

IMAG1691

 

Moving on to the aft fuselage, I marked the beginning of the stripe nearer the tail by applying the "stripe-width" template (because the distance from the tail plane coincides with the width of a stripe):

y4myQqdrJhRHXWiOZycF7cmvaqmT7ACOVumJnDGL

IMAG1692

 

Then, I marked the width of the 5 stripes with the corresponding template:

y4mwtF0l1Ik6FklGJ7LXqbsLfTeFwprTk6YK7Qwz

IMAG1693

 

After delimiting this end of the stripes, I moved to the other side of the fuselage and repeated the procedure:

y4mwQIuFdBQ9pbwQBSmu31o5NYfiPEavTGH2mbK4

IMAG1694

 

Since I would also have to paint the sky (duck egg green) band just forward of the tail plane (which was partially overlapped by the last white stripe), I marked its end with a thin stripe of masking tape. I´ll paint white up to this delimitation and the pale green over white, after finishing the D-Day stripes. I also found, in my reference pictures, that the tail band was vertical, instead of slightly leaning towards the tail along the panel line, like shown in the kit's instructions. So, I'll have to correct the camouflage later:

y4mgXjAfJ93wBr90EQrqq6ssbuBOkWZst5vunC9e

IMAG1695

 

With these delimitations in place, I masked all camouflaged areas that should be protected:

y4mkcep7iAa4uFQrVUlxlsY1kwQFGqx6xnJ2PyDl

IMAG1698

 

y4mgv2X-Qe1WUQTlqE98ssg2ZMsiXQ-gccGFKc7K

IMAG1699

 

After applying matt white to the stripes' areas, this was the result:

y4mprGT-gGF7walvZ7NBs1vJpnMCt2n92-P7bw7a

IMAG1710

 

y4mkWQrX8QF3eNyo9bd6OVZyP8k2zSGQTMraJVj0

IMAG1712

 

y4mIa2Oor6ZUgNIWmoF3tNTvTLUrxGLHzeL8f9gwy4mQhG6g1fv-iSXHnz1Ujuvj5FR1RzTe5nxMVvld

IMAG1711    IMAG1713

 

I left it to dry for a few days and then started masking the white stripes in order to paint the black stripes. I used the "stripe-width" template to ensure the proper width for all stripes. Here's the first white stripe masked, the template serving as a spacer for the black stripe and the middle white stripe being masked:

y4mbMwDmFcSETWXwxZje0aL8UFCQss8ISe68nljl

IMAG1757

 

Moving to the other side of the fuselage, we have here all white stripes masked and the inner stripes left unprotected to receive black paint. Note the smaller width white area nearer the tail, corresponding to the sky coloured band (this was also masked before applying the black paint):

y4mzw1RQcqYDSewvRQ2G8KmGxenBF7CGX-PuMCbe

IMAG1758

 

A similar procedure was used to mask the white stripes on the wings. Here's the end result:

y4mUzE8UiaAH9oGLLxL9qxsT1IOihskg026BkroM

IMAG1763

 

y4maWmytwDJssAEYL3C6FAUSGDU_5aKIaDopJRkp

IMAG1764

 

y4mQAClAHc5m0yZHsF6CaZFPhNbC1oebd4nfh716

IMAG1765

 

y4mka84vXFZEMyLXx0WQ3er5XrCWcua-idYa9Ghi

IMAG1766

 

After painting with matt black, this was the result:

y4mLaTsak4JfpKhCntAVMpusPJs8udznUTcTlIvm

IMAG1771

 

I removed the protection of the tail band:

y4mDqtq6rB441FkcXTOlnAbfishiAi6cjnK6VZ_Y

IMAG1774

 

And painted it with Sky (Duck Egg Green):

y4muXJAVFmKB5-i8_IEN-AkOgRzSKadC4AqxKs9s

IMAG1775

 

After removing the protections, we got this:

y4m_hjFz-hS5dqCYE1OPNrYsQiRCkrrEASX2T_3t

IMAG1778

 

As can be seen, there is a gap in the camouflage between the green band and the tail, due to the error in the painting instructions, which I'll correct later.

 

Here's the D-Day striped Spit:

y4mXJVAAWNH5-ddqKtCNKJPELwVLuDOnYwq49vsV

IMAG1776

 

y4mAKLqw00e8R_c_A9WJ3A5hxlHq9yzMJEufJZ5D

IMAG1777

 

There are some problems with over-spray, which I'll take care of latter. Probably, the stripes are too perfect, considering that they were applied in the field to an operational aircraft, without any masking, as can be seen in the following period picture:

y4mMh0601TeQo4TUKp5s_OLctYJKqnOXim5jAxxN

 

Sorry for the lengthy post... I hope it can be of use for someone contemplating this approach...

 

Cheers,

 

Jaime

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"Well, this will be a lengthy and, possibly, boring post... Hopefully it will be useful for someone." Far from boring and useful to me - thanks Jaime!

I admire your accuracy here. I would have been tempted (and have been before) to just use Tamiya 3mm tape and just forgotten about the odd few mm!!

They look great and I've bookmarked this as a reference. Thanks again! :)

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Great work Jamie, a not only useful but also very interesting build thus far. I'll be using this thread as reference for when I try the same scheme on a 144 Spit.

Quick question, did you not have an issue with removing the blu-tak from the wheel wells without leaving trace behind?

Keep up the great work!

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Thank you all for the kind words and for your interest. It's much appreciated.

Quick question, did you not have an issue with removing the blu-tak from the wheel wells without leaving trace behind

I still haven't removed the blu-tack but my previous experience is that it leaves some marks behind. However, since I usually apply a dark wash after, it really isn't a problem. I've read there's a white-tak variety which is better regarding residues, but I haven't tried it yet.

Cheers

Jaime

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Well, with this post I'll be up to date with the works on the Spit.

 

As said, there was some overspray when painting the white areas, because the cling film masking got slightly loose. This picture shows some white overspray outboard of the stripes, on the under surfaces of the wings:

y4mhdfb2eF4v6PGuwI0OA8xDgtSTOdUXc6pAITZr

IMAG1800

 

And here we can see overspray outboard of the stripes on the upper surface of the port wing:

y4mpe9pO1P8-tkSQaQs6QaaG8jPqlmPtIIclIyeV

IMAG1801

 

To correct this, I started by masking the white stripes on the leading edges, as can be seen above (these stripes will be painted yellow later).

 

Then I thinned each of the colours (Medium Sea Grey for the under surfaces, Ocean Grey for the upper surface) to a 75% thinner / 25% paint ratio, reduced the pressure to 10 psi and reduced the airbrush's paint volume as much as possible. This setting is the same I use for painting mottled camouflages. It allows a great degree of control for free-hand painting with the airbrush.

 

After correcting the oversprayed areas, the results look quite acceptable, as shown in the following pictures:

y4mBf6pwI-uAimbUK-DxM0iOQQZ4c3hRLQ6h9WtD

IMAG1805

 

y4mZmjpgu6FbjrKKdKSuCPEju7-KnGdizVTnh70f

IMAG1806

 

OK, I'm up to date with this one, now :)

 

The next steps are correcting the dark green camouflage between the Sky-coloured band and the tail fin, and painting the yellow stripes in the wings' leading edges.

 

Hopefully, I'll get back to this model during the weekend.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Jaime

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, that looks great Jaime and some great tips - thanks!

If you're doing a lot of Spitfires, Procopius uses these templates for masking. Just like the mats that were used on 'the real thing' they come in two patterns and, once you've cut them out, are a lot faster than blu-tak.

Great stuff and thanks for sharing :popcorn:

Do you have another link for those templates? I can't seem to access that site.

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