Alan P Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Nice tidy work in the cockpit, very nice indeed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 Got the wings on after a bit of fettleing at the front end, a few gaps to fill: Working on a Lakenheath F100D for my USAFE/Childhood project concurrently! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 Some filling done with some model putty.usual suspects, wing join, intakes etc - the power of the cocktail stick! Having issues with my putty, drying up in its tube.....any advice as to which is the best putty to buy next - advice appreciated! Hopefully sand the excess with micromesh and crack on with the build....getting there! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air-to-Air Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Having issues with my putty, drying up in its tube.....any advice as to which is the best putty to buy next - advice appreciated!I can recommend Milliput Superfine White. It's a two part epoxy putty. It takes about half an hour to set, maximum strength is reached overnight. It can be shaped with a wet blade when it is setting or cleaned up with a wet cotton bud (good for cleaning up tricky seams like fuselage to wing). It feathers very nicely so no problems blending the putty across a particular area. It's not harder than the plastic. Like all putties, best to give it a coat of primer before base coat.I haven't done it myself as yet, but I've read that if you want to rescribe a puttied area, it's best to coat the relevant area with CA first. The putty is slightly porous so the CA fills the gaps and hardens up the material for scribing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I still rate Squadron Green Putty as my weapon of choice, but it does dry up in the tube. Having some good results with Perfect Plastic Putty, but I'm finding it's no good as a gap/step filler as it dries a bit chalky and seems to flake off from larger gaps. Being water soluble, it's absolutely superb for filling small cracks and surface scratches, as well as smoothing off finer gaps in the joins between fuselage and canopies, blade antennae and other added parts. For larger steps and bigger gaps I've often used Mr. White Putty from GSI/Creos - it goes on a bit gooey and stringy, but dries quickly and doesn't shrink. It sands very smooth once dry and is perfect for the kind of overlaps and steps that older kits seem to produce along the longer seams. My favourite putty for finishing remains Tamiya Basic Putty, which is perfect for filling sink holes and surface defects. It is also for me the best all-round putty for filling joins between wings and fuselage and so on. It will dissolve in Mr Color Thinners and can be smoothed off without sanding if you use a cotton bud dipped in Mr Color Thinner wiped along the puttied join. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mirageiv Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I concur with what these guys said. I mainly use cyano glue though because nothing beats it for rescribing over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Got to agree regarding using cyano for filling. It dries quickly and is great for scribing over, it does not flake or come out in lumps like regular fillers do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Thanks guys, Cyano, CA...lol...lots to take in! Do you have any specific brand names glue wise as I am not sure whats what! I have been using perfect plastic putty, just dries up inside, but as Brokenedge says, easy to use. Going to try the Squadron Green Putty as well. Your help is appreciated, I can buy the odd item as and when and build up a choice. Have sanded the filled areas now, ready to crack on with the build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Dones some sanding and re-scribing (very loose use of the term!) Onwards now with build....nearing primer time! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Nice progress Tim, She is going to be in my favourite scheme for an F-4G so I'm looking forward to seeing her with some paint on. Craig. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 18, 2015 Author Share Posted June 18, 2015 Managed to finish off the main build (less a few Antennas etc, canopy been futured and drying. I will mask it and attach to the airframe next. After a quick spray of black around the framework I will prime with good old Halfords grey primer. My Mr Color paint and thinner has arrived, I am going to try to post shade using JimmyDels F4 D Mig Killers technique (never gonna reach that standard!!) ... My Q is - can I put the laquer based paint over Halfords grey plastic primer? Says the following : The Halfords Plastic Primer Spray Grey provides a strong base coat, helping to reduce runs and distortions in your top coat and providing a smoother finish. The advanced acrylic based formulation of Halfords colour match spray paint is compatible with virtually all types of automotive paint finishes including cellulose. http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/cleaning-body-repair/car-spray-paints/halfords-plastic-primer-grey-spray-300ml Any advice appreciated!! Primed the exhausts, weapons, tanks etc using white primer from Halfords (ran out of grey!!) Just need to order my HARM missiles! Progress at least! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Managed to get the canopy masked, on, quickly paint black for the inner frame effect and then primed. The Mask kit I used seemed to have a few 'short' areas which I added masking too. then added the black to the nose area with the last of my Humbrol rattle can used for Black Mike: Also the last of my Tamiya silver rattle can for the rear area: Need to work on the other metals on the rear end, mask up ready for the Euro 1 cam. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Bit late replying, but I've definitely used lacquer paint (Mr Color) over Halfords Grey primer. It was fine! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Oooooh, it's ready for camo. Really looking forward to the Euro 1 scheme on this one Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Hmmm...with time getting on I may have to mask up the rear end and try to get the cam on over the weekend when I have more time...then go back to the exhaust area as time is getting short with a week in Moscow and family hols coming up....I think Mr Color is fast drying? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Pre- shaded with the Mr Color paint, utilising my new Iwata HP-C+ for the first time - the idea was to use the advice given by Jimmydel, in a slightly different manner - preshade the darker areas, colour on, lighten a bit and shoot some middle panel parts and then blend with main colour. Drys so fast! Light Green FS34102 Masked up for the next green FS34079 I love masking - me!! Next then the Grey - hopefully the big reveal tomorrow - then on with the rest of the metals, lights etc before some Humbrol clear - will test on the tanks first!! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 A lot of good work has gone on with this one Tim, well done. Quick question, have you painted the jet blast panels yet? If not and I don't know if this will come too late, but I usually paint mine with Humbrol Metalcote Gunmetal No 27004 and then when dry give a good rub. This usually brings up the panels with that oily film look that the panels have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) Thanks Jabba - I know lots about assault rifles and parachutes - my plane parts are not so good! Are you talking about the metal areas to the rear of the exhausts, below the tail?I have sprayed silver, masked that area in prep for the lower part - I take this is where you mean? I then masked that to get the cam on.I will try your idea - do you thin it and spray or paint on? Think it says steel below silver on the instructions but will try the gunmetal- thanks! Edited June 27, 2015 by Tim Moff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) Couldn't wait any longer - all dried....think its ok? The clear will tone down the contrast hopefully! Need to do any touch ups, lights, Ae's, exhausts etc tomorrow before Humbrol clear - Decals during the week hopefully! The best thing the G Modeal Wild Weasel F4's didn't use too many stencils!! Edited June 27, 2015 by Tim Moff 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Very cool Tim, I haven't seen that technique before. It leads to a well worn/faded result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Thanks Jabba - I know lots about assault rifles and parachutes - my plane parts are not so good! Are you talking about the metal areas to the rear of the exhausts, below the tail? I have sprayed silver, masked that area in prep for the lower part - I take this is where you mean? I then masked that to get the cam on. I will try your idea - do you thin it and spray or paint on? Think it says steel below silver on the instructions but will try the gunmetal- thanks! Tim the area where I am talking, is where the instructions say H18. I paint in on straight from the tin, let it dry add another coat let that dry and then buff away with a duster or softish cloth. A strange thing in the instructions where it says to paint H8 (as you have marked sliver) this really should be a more steel type colour. When I worked on Phantoms at RAF St Athan we used to make these panels from titanium, and could be a pain to drill for the screw attachment holes. Hope this is of some help. That is very good work on the paint scheme, very realistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Great help thanks - will grab a pot and brush on! Now do you Klear/clear over the metal parts when you do the rest of the model prior to decals? Also with regards the Matt varnish - same Q - varnish metal work or mask and leave? Thanks for the complement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dermo245 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 How have I missed this build ? Cracking stuff! Dermot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 I do not Klear over the Gunmetal part, but do over the steel. When it comes to varnishing I do the same, as in nothing over the gunmetal (it should have a slight sheen to it as these panels get a little oily) and matt varnish over the steel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Thanks again...great tip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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