GWH Early Vulcan Conversion B1 B1a B2 Blue Steel and 698 Pit Road

[robvulcan]

With some luck I hope I get it to look close to this B1a but you can never tell till the paint is on.

[CedB]

Pretty, pretty Vulcan

[nimrod54]

Yep, looks like the one on screen to me Rob.

[robvulcan]

Pretty, pretty Vulcan

A'rnt they all

Yep, looks like the one on screen to me Rob.

Awsome lets hope so. At the moment I have to get a Decent B1 to mold. Then from the duplicates B1a types can be made which I cant wait for as the Camo ones look amazing

Right then back on with this pedantic build and I am tweaking the tail further. Also got the miliput on the wings and intake lips so I can start sculpting them

I also removed the B2s control surface housings not present on the B1

Getting there this one has been built much faster than the other 2 I guess that’s down to less fear this time. I cant wait to get this one finished. and I think I have decided that the 2nd B2 that featured a few pages ago with the Early B2 will be just build as demo models on stands for our Bomber Command Table.

Cheers Rob

[Scooby]

Awesome craftsmanship Rob! I have been following this thread for some time now.

I am very interested in an early B2 conversion if you decide to sell it! I can't decipher if you plan on selling them opr not. I know one thing, if you do you will get very rich!

Does anyone know if any of the white Vulcan's on the Fundekals sheet can be built out of box with the GWH or Pit Road kits? Or do they all require the early exhaust, intakes, tail cone, and bombay?

[robvulcan]

Awesome craftsmanship Rob! I have been following this thread for some time now.

I am very interested in an early B2 conversion if you decide to sell it! I can't decipher if you plan on selling them opr not. I know one thing, if you do you will get very rich!

Does anyone know if any of the white Vulcan's on the Fundekals sheet can be built out of box with the GWH or Pit Road kits? Or do they all require the early exhaust, intakes, tail cone, and bombay?

Hi Scooby thats cool to read. I could do with being rich as I am always bouncing around broke at the mo, One of the reasons for slow progress is the buying of RTV and Resin.

The intention was just to try and make a tail cone I never thought it would go this far but yes I will be offering them for sale once they are ready. I just want to make sure its all ready to go first but even so I think production runs will be very small at first and if they sell I will make more and build it up if it goes anywhere.

The Fundekals sheet is a god send and most welcome but the roundels for the Nose are the wrong size being 48" they should be 54" and it makes a big difference to the look. All my white ones use this sheet from MARK1 Decals http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/DMK14406

Which you can use in conjunction with the Fundekcals and wolfpack sheets. Sadly no one has done decals for the early stencils which where dark blue, Red and possibly grey. But they really where not very noticeable at all on the white ones.

If you want to model an early B2 with B1 Tail cone the ones I have seen that had it where XH533, 536, 537, but I believe 533,535,536,537,538,539 Had it but not 534 I think this was the first to receive the ECM cone , 533 was later refitted with it as was 535, 537 etc. But the only photos I have seen are 533,536,537 I have read that the above is the case but I would like more evidence myself.

As for other adornments the avro badges and bristol siddley olympus logos etc for the early aircraft you might have to make yourself. XH537 Was just plain B1 white scheme full shade roundels, black numbers on the tail only (only xh533 had them under wing B1 style) and the red tow angle limit lines under nose, thats the red v and red straight line they had but later where omitted on the B2 and B1a.

I know that XH554 to XH556 Had the narrow intakes but I do not know if they had the early tail cone. Probably not But who knows its hard to find photos of them back then.

The mystique of these makes them all the more interesting and that they where going to be build as B1s but modified on the Production line.

Cheers Rob

[robvulcan]

Well its getting there, The lower wing edge is gradually being blended in till it looks right using milliput, Mr Surfacer 500 and lots of wet and dry, Micromesh, Curved files and patience.

I have also found that Halfords Primer is great at filling in smaller details and scratch marks. In this case making my life easier.

A few angles so you can see how it catches the light.

Its starting look a bit more B1 now. I need to build up the back of the inner wing a little on the bottom and then when its time contour the edges and round the forward wing tip.

I am getting very tempted to do some work on the bomb bay albeit simple and allow easier work later. Might make up a Violet Club too while stuffs drying

Rob

[kev67]

Looking good Rob, have you tried Halfords Filler primer, I find it easier to see imperfections as it is a mustard colour rather than the normal grey, and its better for filling small scratches

[robvulcan]

Looking good Rob, have you tried Halfords Filler primer, I find it easier to see imperfections as it is a mustard colour rather than the normal grey, and its better for filling small scratches

Hi Kev. Its my first time using it in 11 years since a bad experience at the time when they changed their formula. Seems fantastic now. I just wonder if its as durable as it used to be if so I will get spraying some enamels again

I have not tried it no. I hear the Plastic Primer can craze so I am steering clear of that. I find this standard primer fab but I will try the filler primer. Does it get rid of panel lines ?

Cheers Rob

[kev67]

As I spray with acrylics I can't comment on any reaction to enamels, but I have found this stuff great for seeing blemishes and areas that need filling etc, (I got this idea from Tom Probart when he done his C17), I still use grey fine Tamiya primer when I am happy with every thing, I tend to micro mesh the primer down which gives it a smooth surface

It does not fill panel lines though, but can make them less prominent

[robvulcan]

As I spray with acrylics I can't comment on any reaction to enamels, but I have found this stuff great for seeing blemishes and areas that need filling etc, (I got this idea from Tom Probart when he done his C17), I still use grey fine Tamiya primer when I am happy with every thing, I tend to micro mesh the primer down which gives it a smooth surface

It does not fill panel lines though, but can make them less prominent

Sounds like just the trick. I will have to get some to try sounds like it could be good to have on hand.

[robvulcan]

Ok lets talk about legs !

Ages ago last year I started work on the legs. The Pit road ones look nice but the front leg is too short and fits a little low in the Fuselage. The rear ones are looking good but again fit to low into the body.

I started by modding the B2 leg to improve the length. As for the overall height I need to sort this and feel the easiest way is to simply put the legs on a riser of about 1 or 2 mm.

I also made the B1 leg which is much longer and gives it a nose up look but this with the low back wheels makes it look like a dog dragging its backside !.

This is why I like the Corgi wheels they are more accurate and look better but are a bit cartoony and simple. I may modify the corgi ones and refine the detail and hybrid them with Pit Road wheels to make more accurate wheels that give the Vulcan a nice sit too.

Left to right we have the Pit Road kit leg, My Corrected B2 leg, Airfix B2, Flightpath B1, My mostly scratched B1 leg with the Pit Road wheel mounts.

Here I have enlarged my B2 leg to compare to the Airfix one. Tiny things to work on I think I will mold this B2 leg up.

Cheers Rob

[Fritag]

I've just read this through from the start Rob. Very impressed. Love the range of techniques on display - and the casting work. I've never done two-part mould or cut mould casting.

Oh - I'm a fan of Halfords filler primer too. Like Kev I got the idea from Tom Probert. I would have thought it was ideal for you here given the the amount of cutting and reshaping you've done. It definitely has to be micromeshed back to get a smooth finish tho' - but worth the effort. I agree with Kev that it won't fill panel lines but does help make them less prominent.

Steve

Edited September 9, 2015 by Fritag

[robvulcan]

I've just read this through from the start Rob. Very impressed. Love the range of techniques on display - and the casting work. I've never done two-part mould or cut mould casting.

Oh - I'm a fan of Halfords filler primer too. Like Kev I got the idea from Tom Probert. I would have thought it was ideal for you here given the the amount of cutting and reshaping you've done. It definitely has to be micromeshed back to get a smooth finish tho' - but worth the effort. I agree with Kev that it won't fill panel lines but does help make them less prominent.

Steve

Cheers Steve, Its great to get feedback like that from yourself. I wish to give Halfords a go again. I used to swear by them first joyously ad ten in anger. But seems they are back to tops again.

Still love Humbrol and Tamiya too.

There is plenty to come yet. Its a long build but fun. However I look forward to finishing as I want to do other things too.

Cheers Rob

[robvulcan]

Update time.

I started to take the resin tail one off the casting block. A few scrapes with the scriber either side on the line and then a little pressure and it will snap off at the line.

You need to sand down to the panel line and carve down the top section of the internal mount too account for the tail fin connector but once your there it simply push fits in. Whilst it does need a little super glue , filler and a minor carve to blend it does fit right. Ive done this to quite a few of my Vulcans now and for my first resin part im pretty chuffed with it.

I also added some plasticard to the inner rudder to build them

Up a little to match the wing at the back.

Cheers Rob

[Val]

Great work buddy

[Adam Poultney]

Aaaaaaand I have uncovered another one...... I was just innocently googling XA912 trying to figure out what happened to that B.1, and I find another ancient thread! So I guess this is the original casting a Vulcan B.1 thread then....

Someone needs to stop me because I'm going to uncover every thread about Vulcan B.1s on this forum because I'm not confident enough to actually try building one yet.....

Was the straight wing one ever completed (they're my new V Bomber obsession for this week)

[robvulcan]

5 minutes ago, Adam Poultney said:

Aaaaaaand I have uncovered another one...... I was just innocently googling XA912 trying to figure out what happened to that B.1, and I find another ancient thread! So I guess this is the original casting a Vulcan B.1 thread then....

Someone needs to stop me because I'm going to uncover every thread about Vulcan B.1s on this forum because I'm not confident enough to actually try building one yet.....

Was the straight wing one ever completed (they're my new V Bomber obsession for this week)

There are plenty of them. I think the forum has been annoyed enough by my Vulcan obsession culminating with some of my mates on here giving me the nickname “Vulc Bluesteel” hahaha.

yep this is the thread I think. 

The straight wing one has not been completed yet as the mold I made was over complicated and although it worked the second one double laminated itself and has a massive seem mark down the middle I’ve mostly removed. 

I may try and finish it. But to be honest once’s the new mold is done if it works I’ll be able to make many of them that don’t have a seem mark. 

So I’ll probably leave it as is as a reminder of the years of work gone into this. 

The best part is to make a straight wing all I have to do is file the edge down. But to do a B1a I’m going to try and make a tail cone that can slide on the back and be blended in that sits at he correct angle I.e. tilted slightly upwards rather that straight out as on the GWH.

cheers Rob

[Adam Poultney]

Well I just got my first GWH Vulcan kit today, and I must say that I am tempted to build a straight wing in silver. Probably gear up and on the stand included. 

Am I understanding it correctly that what you said earlier in the thread means that the intake inserts on the kit are incorrect for a Vulcan B2, and are in fact Vulcan B1 intakes? 

Do you have any of the tailcones and fins you moulded left? They would be rather important to the build if I were to attempt it as I don't have the scratch building experience to do them myself. This would be my first major attempt at converting a kit this much (I did start off an Airfix kit, but that's just sitting in a box now)