Cookenbacher Posted June 9, 2015 Author Posted June 9, 2015 I apologize for neglecting this one. The decals are on. I used the 'pool of Future/Klear' method rather than Micro-set/sol and it worked well. They're very bright, and definitely need some de-saturation when the time comes. 5
Stew Dapple Posted June 9, 2015 Posted June 9, 2015 I really like your OD Cookie, you've got that down stone cold - in fact a lovely looking Lightning all round Cheers, Stew 2
giemme Posted June 9, 2015 Posted June 9, 2015 Brilliantly coming to an end also with this one, Cooken. Would you please expand a bit on the 'pool of Future' method? TIA Ciao 1
Cookenbacher Posted June 9, 2015 Author Posted June 9, 2015 Thanks Stew, hopefully I can get proficient at the Temperate Land Scheme in time for the BoB GB, even without your secret weapons: Phoenix Precision Paints and awesome brush (air and bristle) skills. I had a dream that I used Lifecolor tan for Dark Earth and it turned out great. I'm afraid that this is a case where one shouldn't follow his dreams! Thanks Giemme, I saw this decal method in an issue of Fine Scale Modeller, and Rob Vulcan also advocates it. Basically use Future/Klear instead of Micro-set. While the decal is in the water, apply some Future to the appropriate spot on the model. Then place the transfer onto the little pool of Future and dab away the excess water/Future as usual. Once you've got it placed how you want, add another coat of Future on top. The idea is to encase the transfer in varnish, above and below, and eliminate silvering. I like to thin the Future/Klear with a little distilled water, but that's just personal preference. I have to say that it really worked, and the decals conformed nicely to panel lines too. The RS decals are really great, and they provide lots of options, so they may have worked just fine no matter what method I used. More experiments will be necessary. I wonder if other clear varnishes would work as well, say a matt varnish, hmmm. Rich, I know your work schedule is crazy, so thanks for taking the time to lead this group build and encourage everyone. 3
giemme Posted June 10, 2015 Posted June 10, 2015 While the decal is in the water, apply some Future to the appropriate spot on the model. Then place the transfer onto the little pool of Future and dab away the excess water/Future as usual. Once you've got it placed how you want, add another coat of Future on top. The idea is to encase the transfer in varnish, above and below, and eliminate silvering. I like to thin the Future/Klear with a little distilled water, but that's just personal preference. I have to say that it really worked, and the decals conformed nicely to panel lines too. Thanks for that, Cooken. One more question, if you don't mind: how long before the decal actually start conforming to the panel lines? Is that a matter of second or you actually need to wait for the Future to dry? Ciao
Cookenbacher Posted June 10, 2015 Author Posted June 10, 2015 Hi Giemme, I noticed that the decal conforms as the future dries, so it takes a few minutes, and the results look best overnight. 1
giemme Posted June 10, 2015 Posted June 10, 2015 Hi Giemme, I noticed that the decal conforms as the future dries, so it takes a few minutes, and the results look best overnight. Ok, thank you. A test might be in sight for this ... Ciao 1
rob85 Posted June 12, 2015 Posted June 12, 2015 Looking good cookie, on the home stretch Now? Cheers for the decal sealing techniques... That will definitely help in future. Rob 1
Cookenbacher Posted June 13, 2015 Author Posted June 13, 2015 Looking forward to your tests Giemme. Thanks Rob, and I'm glad you've got your Typhoon started. I started weathering the P-38 today. First I used some Vallejo wash for oil and fuel stains, and then tempera paint for dirt and mud. Then I blended it together with chalk pastels. I've got a little more clean up to do, and then it's time attach all the bits that I was afraid I'd break when weathering. 2
Cookenbacher Posted June 13, 2015 Author Posted June 13, 2015 Also got a little bit done on the lucky Spitfire. Procopius warned me about the spinner not fitting the prop on the new AZ kit, so I added some plasticard to fill the gaps. And the canopy is masked. Thanks for looking. 3
Procopius Posted June 13, 2015 Posted June 13, 2015 Nice solution to the spinner! I tried sanding down the prop, but your solution is genius. Loving the weathering on the Lightning. 1
CedB Posted June 13, 2015 Posted June 13, 2015 What he said ^^. Great 'dirty' finish Cookie, love it! 1
rob85 Posted June 13, 2015 Posted June 13, 2015 That weathering is top notch cookie! Beautiful. Also nice to see the lucky spitfire pop its head (nose?) In Rob 1
trickyrich Posted June 13, 2015 Posted June 13, 2015 the weathering is very nicely done, see looks great! I will forgive you for going off topic with the Spitfire, seeing you've managed to sneak it in to all your updates! 1
Cookenbacher Posted June 14, 2015 Author Posted June 14, 2015 Thanks everybody! I'm calling this one finished: I'll try and get some pics for the gallery soon. 8
Procopius Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 I really like it. And it's even more impressive knowing what you went through to get to this point. 1
CedB Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 Gorgeous result Cookie - that weathering is really, really good. Marvellous model 1
Stew Dapple Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 Hat duly doffed Cookie; excellent work - look forward to seeing the gallery pics when they are done Cheers, Stew 1
wellzy Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 Very nice finish on your P38 and thanks for the heads up on the Spit Nice job Les 1
nimrod54 Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 Very nice result Cookie, lovely faded look to the paint. 1
trickyrich Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 Well done Cookie, she looks great you should be proud of this one! 1
giemme Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 Absolutely great weathering! And a real beauty, overall, especially considering all the sanding-filling-experimenting you've done with it! 1
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