Jump to content

Canopies and Klear


Edge

Recommended Posts

Hi all. Apologies for starting this here rather than in Tips but I can't start a topic there.

I'm plodding through the new Airfix Defiant and am at the canopy & turret stage. Having heard lots about giving the glazing a 'bath in Klear' I wondered if someone could describe the process?

Is it as simple as submerging the clear parts in Klear for a period of time before whipping them out? If so how long should they be left to soak? How do you 'dry off' the excess? Can I then use canopy masks without harming the layer of Klear?

Sorry to sound so dim by asking so many questions!

ps I have a store of the old style Klear, not the newer Pledge variety.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont do this, I prefer to paint the stuff on, however:

I believe whats usually done is to dunk the canopy in some Klear, soaking probably wouldn't have any advantages. As for drying off the excess, i would suggest just placing it on a piece of paper towel which should soak up the excess. It would also probably be wise to keep the canopy in a dust-free area. As for canopy masks, they shouldn't cause a problem on top of the Klear.

Hope this helps,

K

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello

I mentioned something about the successor to Klear in the Shackleton thread that Radar has on WiP.

I have the Pledge Multi Surface Wax version, and having painted a four ship of Airfix 1/48th Canberras with it, which have now got a brownish tint to them I wasn't keen to do the canopies!

The Halfords fluorescent orange has gone off as well...Are the two connected I wonder? :banghead:

Tim S

(novice trying hard to get back into this hobby :hanging: )

Edited by Tornado 01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

...don't fall for the comments I've seen in the past about modellers dipping their canopies several times into Future/Klear over several days. It's its own solvent, so all you're doing is melting off the old layer and leaving a new one on the part. The only reason you leave it to soak would be for bubbles to float to the surface, or for it to permeate into micro-fractures in the canopy (absolutely no idea if that last one is true). The good thing about dipping over brushing is that you quickly cover both the inside and outside faces of the part, which is probably a good thing? :shrug:

Oh, and if you go to another part of the forum (the one I've moved it to) you can post your own topics :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...