Which saw to use for resin parts?

[Fin]

I`ve bought the RV MiG-21 Lancer set:

http://www.super-hobby.ro/products/MiG-21-LanceR-C.html

and it`s the first time I had to deal with resin parts. Obviously, they need to be cut from the mould blocks and I`m wondering what type of saw is best for such an operation, considering the size of those pieces (some are really small).

Something like the Tamiya Modeling razor saw?

http://www.super-hobby.ro/products/MODELING-RAZOR-SAW.html

or the - apparently thicker - Tamiya Handy Craft saw?

http://www.super-hobby.ro/products/Handy-Craft-Saw-II.html

Edited March 25, 2015 by Fin

[AngstROM]

Short answer: for casting-block removal, the somewhat chunkier-looking Razor Saw (first link) should be spot-on. (The second one is thicker? Oh well...!)

Long-winded answer: the best razor-saw set you can afford is always a good investment. I'd definitely score both if you can run to them; being Tamiya products you won't go far wrong. The second one looks like it will be very useful for modifying plastic parts where needed.

Boring but vital stuff: ALWAYS keep resin parts AND tools very wet whilst sawing. This will keep 'orrible PUR dust out of your air -it behaves like asbestos if it gets inside you, and mesothelioma isn't a bag o' laughs. A filter mask won't keep dust out of your carpets/pets/family etc., so plenty water is the way to go, and wash/dispose of the residual sludge carefully after you're done.

Some resin is seriously tough, so you need a 'slimline but manly' saw rather than a too-thin one which will probably bend while you're working. Try to hold the block rather than the part it is attached to -the fine detail on resin bits can be as resilient as the average Pringle chip, and the pressure of holding them can mess it up real good. (Have I ...? Ooooh, yes!)

Happy Sawing!

[Fin]

Thank you for the reply! Those were some very useful advices.

As far as the "vital stuff" goes, yeah, I had read that the resin dust is too fine to be expelled from the lungs, but it`s always scary to read it again. And the comparison with the asbestos was a real winner in getting my attention. Is there an article that has more on this?

By the way, what about sawing/sanding plastic parts? I`ve read recommendations to wet the sandpaper while using it. Is it for safety rather than artistic results reasons?

[Tin_Bitz]

I got my razor saw from hobbycraft and has always served me well. It's the only one that they do.

When dealing with any resin bits I use a couple of sheets of newspaper, disposable gloves and plenty of water on the parts. I also wear a resperator/vapour mask. Once all done the newspaper and gloves go straight in the outside bin. Bit over the top?

Edited April 10, 2015 by Tin_Bitz

[viscount806x]

I normally use a jeweller's saw, sometimes called a 'piercing saw', which gives a tight cut with plenty of control. Available widely, even Hobbycraft have them (at a price).

Here's a link to a more sedately priced one which comes with spare blades. It is a bit like a small hacksaw and the blade can be tensioned to give a really nice cutting tool and it goes around curves, courtesy of the tiny round sectioned cutter.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-NEW-Adjustable-Jewellers-Type-Saw-Frame-144-Piercing-Blades-1-0-To-6-0-/381140829757?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58bdc3863d

[chris57]

I wouldn't tackle any of this without my chain saw, but at 109 Db it does grate on the nerve ends a bit, but resin pah, it just eats it.

[avro683]

For me I use either of the "SAM" saws. I get far less dust that way.

[modelman182]

I use this one - which I bought from Sylmasta at Telford back in 2011 (I think).

http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Razor-Saw-6--975.html#SID=295

Not inexpensive, but I doubt I'll need to buy another one for a while as this seems to be up to any job I've given it (even brass tube cutting).

Cheers

Kev

[andym]

There is no proof whatsoever that resin dust causes cancer (show me the scientific paper that proves a link then I'll retract this statement). It will lodge in the small alveoli of the lungs though so it's best to avoid inhaling it. It is a senstiser however and can cause allergic reactions, up to and including anaphylactic shock so wearing a dust mask is definitely advisible as is keeping the amount of dust down.

HTH
Andy

[viscount806x]

There is no proof whatsoever that resin dust causes cancer (show me the scientific paper that proves a link then I'll retract this statement). It will lodge in the small alveoli of the lungs though so it's best to avoid inhaling it. It is a senstiser however and can cause allergic reactions, up to and including anaphylactic shock so wearing a dust mask is definitely advisible as is keeping the amount of dust down.

HTH

Andy

I provide no scientific proof here as requested but....the ones who would complain are probably deceased. I had a tumour in one of my kidneys 6 years back, and lost it as a result and almost my life too. That was caused by something toxic and could well have been resin dust, paint fumes or cyano fumes. Take your pick. Take precautions and do not under any circumstances take any chances.

[Mitch K]

If it's sawing around narrow,curved bits, jeweller's saw, if it's a straight cut, then razor saw (with the rigid back). Go slow, whichever I use.

[rayprit]

I am in agreement with Mitch.......but with me, I tend to brush out the teeth of the saw periodically as they clog up during the course of large cuts such as pore blocks and large conversions. Rarely bother with protective gear as the cut is done in less than 15-20 secs - even less, waste is pored into waste bin.

Where the danger lies is in the continual "sanding" of resin bases and platforms.......different matter entirely, protective gear, such as cotton wool stuffed up your nose does me

[viscount806x]

protective gear, such as cotton wool stuffed up your nose does me

Absolutely. Take it straight into the lungs through your mouth and cut out the middle man....r

[andym]

I provide no scientific proof here as requested but....the ones who would complain are probably deceased. I had a tumour in one of my kidneys 6 years back, and lost it as a result and almost my life too. That was caused by something toxic and could well have been resin dust, paint fumes or cyano fumes. Take your pick. Take precautions and do not under any circumstances take any chances.

sorry to hear of that but as you no doubt know alcohol, cigarette smoke other acquired gene mutations or simply inherited gene mutations could have caused that. Resin dust is chemically inert, it is the accumulation of small particles in the lower reaches of the lungs that can cause problems. The chemicals that are mixed make up resin are a different matter and shouldn't be treated lightly.

HTH

Andy

[Fin]

Thank you all for your replies! I got some more ideas about what tools to get by reading the posts above.

As far as the dust goes, why not saw the resin part in a small bowl/tray/whatever container that`s filled with water? That way there should be no airborn dust I`m guessing. No idea what this will do to the tool you`re using in the long term. One could always replace a rusty saw if it gets to that, but I`m guessing that wiping it dry after use would avoid that.

Edited April 12, 2015 by Fin

[azureglo]

You might want to look at this. I did a test using 2 commonly available (UK) razor saws show the fineness of cut: The JLC is fine but rigid and sliced through resin without bending. I got it after noting that many master modellers use it specifically for separating resin from pour blocks.

Anil

[Fin]

Actually, the JLC saw would be easy to aquire for me. Thanks alot for bringing it to my attention!

[JeffreyK]

JLC saw as the work horse for the "heavier" stuff, ideal for thick resin blocks. RB ultrafine saw for cuts where loss of material is an issue (cuts where both sides of the cut are meant to be usable after cutting).

Jeffrey